Anderson Lowers

I dont know. I just overpaid for on in CA.
hope it works out.

i bought an anderson stripped lower and put a CBC complete upper on it, there's a gap between the receivers but everything works nominally

i machined an anderson 80% and put a slickside anderson upper on it and it mates perfectly. a little tight in the rear but i buffed it with a polish wheel and now it slides in easily but with authority.

also, i cut out the firing pocket with a fucking dremel . . . you really can't fuck up a lower. milspec is overkill, lmao.

They're fine. /arg/ is just full of queers that act like rollmarks mean something.

>there is a gap between receivers
That's normal for all AR-15s, unless you mean something is fucked up and it's large/uneven.

They're literally fine. Idk what the drama is about with them. As long as a stripped lower isn't made out of polymer or plastic and all the parts fit right I have no idea how it can be fucked up

you can see light through the gun, so gas gets on your face. but i can tell that it's not really supposed to "seal" so its purely cosmetic. the other set i have mates pretty well, but these are the only two i have to compare. i've shot somebody else's super nice ar, but it was 10 or 15 years ago

They aren't gucci, making them poorfag trash. Just like PSA.

what tools will I need to assemble a stripped anderson lower?
Ive heard all you need is pliers and a screwdriver
but I've also heard you need all these punches, vise, c clamp, hammer, allen wrenches, etc. etc.

all in all i would buy anderson again (again). no way in hell i'd pay $200 for a lower that i'm going to bang up anyway, when i can get one for $40.

All I own is poorfag trash lmao

The extra $20 to get an Aero is worth it.

honestly dude, all you need is something to hit something with and your hands. I used a hammer and toothpicks to hit in roll pins. on both receivers. toothpick helps hold the bolt catch in place while you hammer the pin through.

I guess you need a long allen wrench to put the grip on. that's it.

I've got an M4 clone with an anderson lower.
The shit these lowers get is purely to justify spending 2 to 3 times as much for a "premium" roll mark. Nothing more, nothing less

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consesus is that they're mass produced fast so QC is iffy so the finish isn't that great/

also tolernaces are loose apperantly where the upper meets the lower is a gap.

also anderson shipped a whole load of these where the ping pong paddle hole wasn't drilled

so there are like a hundred thousands of these things out there with no way to affix a bolt catch

thanks. glad to know I can do this with what I have.

I have one on a poorfag psa build and there's barely a gap at all, I was quite surprised it fit well to be honest.

Also funny that GT talks shit about anderson lowers but shilled Freedom Munitions till that shit blew up one of his guns then talked about how its risky to get reman on his training ammo vid

I use a pair of channel locks with some electrical tape wrapped around the teeth to drive my roll pins in. Its the easiest way that I've found, especially if you slightly crush the leading end just a hair.

You need an AR-15 armorers wrench and a punch to installed the buffer tube and castle nut, an Allen wrench for the grip screw, and some kind of tiny little punch or something for knocking the roll pins in.
Get the armorer's wrench and buy a little spring punch off Amazon. The spring punch will do the staking in like 2 seconds and a wrench costs like $5.

You need to stake the castle nut or that shit is going to come loose.

i literally tightened my castle nut with a hammer and a flathead

>You need to stake the castle nut or that shit is going to come loose.
you really dont. you just have to install it right at the beginning. dont get me wrong staking helps but its not critical

How did it look after you beat the shit out of it?

Why don't you just buy one you fucking faggot? Fucks sake, it's like $40.

fpbp

Honestly

Not even that bad, but I do need a wrench lol its definitely not tight enough

How many rounds have you fired? The castle nut is supposed to be attached permanently.

Anderson tried some shady marketing bullshit on Arf.com.
That's why people have problems with them.
There, I just saved you a bunch of google-fu.

fuck that I used nothing but a large rock to assemble my rifle, I've also completely rebuilt a chevy small block using only a #2 pencil, and glass bedded a 700 in a chassis using only a jar of my old fingernail clippings.
>need to stake the castle nut
no, just crank on it until you hear the bad cracking noise then back a quarter turn

people who already have specialized tools tend to not think of ways to do things without said tools. You could easily get a machine screw with philips drive and not need an allen wrench for the grip even. buffer tube castle nut can even be hand tightened pretty damn well. even if it got loose you'd notice long before it became a problem. Literally the only thing you'd need a weird tool for is tightening a barrel nut (assuming free float handguard, i haven't fucked with delta ring style), and some of those are even made to fit wrenches nowadays.

If you are OCD about your finish you'll want punches or a clamp and a vice with a mag block etc etc. but if you're the kind of person buying anderson (I am, proudly) then you don't need any of that shit.

fuck man i put on my muzzle brake with adjustable pliers (no wrench slots on my $18 brake) and my knees

Loctite that shit

somewhere over 5k over a decade

they are 100% good to go.this guy knows his shit. its like 3 factories that make all lowers and then the meme companies you buy from resell them to you after they engrave some meme picture logo on it and charge you 10 times their cost

>$40
Not OP, but my lgs wants fucking $100 for a poverty pony

Fuck that. Do you live someplace where all firearms are more expensive?

unless they have a $60 transfer fee just buy on online and have it sent to them, when they complain get real smug with them

>5k over a decade
You shoot 500 rounds a year?

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my local shop has them $39.99 too, what type of fudd 30-06 ONLY allowed hunting store are you shopping at?

Delta rings use the same hole pattern as free float barrel nuts. They're just little u groves, not holes.

>permanently install a part in a modular rifle
no thanks.

my A1 stock doesn't even have a castle nut
my pistol does but fuck that

most lgs over price their shit, especially economy lowers (if they even stock them) because that's the only way they can make money on them. Buy online and ship it to any FFL under $20.

What if I want to turn my rifle into a carbine or pistol one day?

that's cause they charge $60 for out of state transfer

there's a shop in my city that charges $70
there's also a dude in a garage that charges $25

that's a felony

you can only turn pistols into rifles.

but you could want to turn your carbine to a rifle, which would require a rifle buffer tube.

which, btw, shoots soft as fuck

Just buy everything online and go with the cheapest transfer you can find. Where I used to live it was a small store that charged $20. They used it to get people in the door and then would offer to special order any future guns you wanted while price matching the lowest price you or they could find online. No transfer fees on special orders and everyone ended up winning and it was great. In my new city the guy in his garage only charges $5, couldn't be a nicer guy too

mid gas + rifle carbine + muzzle brake = no recoil in the rifle but 10 pounds of concussion everywhere else. pretty fucking weird. like being in the eye of a dust devil

i have multiple guns. i shoot more than 500 rounds a year but most of it is with other guns. hell that ar has a setscrew gasblock that everyone claims should have failed but its still fine.

>rifle carbine
uh i mean rifle *buffer*

Anderson lowers are fine

Which companies? I know of LMT only.

They have shitty qc, you will probably get a fine one but out of spec is common

forgot to post the link.

ar15.com/forums/ar-15/Anderson_Manufacturing/118-520530/

I live in the worst state in the union.

Lower cost receivers typically cut costs by reducing QC, loosening tolerances, and/or substituting cheaper material.

Hi Satan, OP here. I have an Anderson lower rifle, and it's been completely fine...and that's another aspect of the memes:
>"hurr, mine shoots fine"
>shoots 200 rounds a year
I've shot mine quite a lot in two years and my rifle hasn't even malfunctioned yet. Granted, no one session has been super high volume, but I've skipped plenty of cleanings. I just want to hear some actual explanations for once. I've even had this argument IRL with an idiot that was saying Andersons weren't even fit for .22lr conversions, and he didn't have an answer when I asked WHAT about them was so bad.

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Here is a list of some forge marks followed by the forge name. Be aware that another company usually machines the forging to a completed lower and anodizes it. There's a lot of room for fucking up a lower receiver by whoever machines it to completion. Lax quality control and anodizing process is why people say Anderson is not good.

>A = Anchor Harvey Aluminum
>AF = Alcoa Forge
>C AF = Colt Alco Forge
>C MB = Colt / Mueller Brass
>Cardinal (Stylized) = Cardinal Forge
>CH = Colt Harvey Aluminum
>Circle/Crosshairs w/ "AR” = ArmaLite
>CK = Colt / Kaiser Aluminum
>CM = Colt / Martin Marietta
>D (Stylized) = Diemaco
>DK = Diemaco / Kaiser Aluminum
>E = Emco
>EK = EMCO / Kaiser
>E MB = EMCO / Mueller Brass
>F Keyhole = FNMI / Cerro Forge
>FA = FNMI / Anchor Harvey
>FK = FNMI / Kaiser Aluminum
>FM = FN/Martin Marietta
>FMB = FNMI / Mueller Brass
>Keyhole = Cerro Forge
>L = Lewis Machine & Tool
>LK = LAR / Kaiser Aluminum
>LM = LAR / Martin Marietta
>M = Mueller Industries
>PA = Capco / Anchor Harvey
>PM = Capco / Martin Marietta
>Square = Brass Aluminum Forging Enterprises

if it's not going to be in a gun fight don't stake it

can you list me out the other parts you used to build this thing? I'm looking to build a budget innawoods beater and I like the look of this'n.

So these companies 80% it or something so they dont fall into gun manufacturing laws? Also is there any definitive evidence Anderson has lower QC or is that sorta inferred from the price?

Also there's another lgs with a $500 transfer fee

Thanks user.
I was too big of a pussy to build one from scratch: it's just an Anderson lower, with a complete Delton 20 inch upper. Magpul pistol grip and handguard, Cav Arms A1 buttstock, Matech BUIS. I replaced some parts, like I added a hiperfire trigger, and a BCM extended charging handle so I can charge it lefty easier.

Works nicely, I just wish I had gotten a pencil barrel instead of Gov profile.

I have an Anderson lower, but it was recommended to me when I was noguns. I'm disgusted every time I shoot my AR, which has a beautiful Geissele MK8 rail, but the poorfag embarrassing pony lower. I'd replace it in a heartbeat if it didn't take more paperwork.

>So these companies 80% it
Not even, they forge the aluminum into a blank that then has every detail large and small machined into it, usually by another company. For your second question, both a little out of column A and a little out of column B. QC is what Anderson has to cut in order to make and sell $40 lowers, but a lot of the very low cost manufactures suffer from bad quality control and anodizing. Although I've never bought anything from Anderson, I've bought a low cost upper and found that the pivot pin holes were machined so out of spec that it would not be mated to a lower receiver. Conversely, I've seen and even shot plenty of rifles build on Anderson lowers that worked just fine. It's really a crap shoot, but they probably make a lot more good lowers than bad ones. I always recommend spending the extra $20 on a lower since returning it is going to be a pain in the ass at best and impossible at worst.

i was going to buy an anderson back in 2009 when they were blowing them out for $14.99 shipped

but it would have ran me $65 EACH to transfer them in california

Reminds me of hi-point, and I dont mean that as an insult. You buy it, it's either good and works or less than good, send it back with their amazing warranty and they'll shape it up after the fact.

Oh I was also wondering. The no lube thing, that's just a joke right?

CA user
I just bought an anderson stripped lower for 130$
I feel your pain

AR15s like to be wet, they run best when lubricated thoroughly and it is impossible to over lubricate one. Generally that applies to the BCG and upper, but a drop or two of oil on the trigger and hammer can't hurt either.

Its a fucking lower receiver, unless its actually fucked up its no different other than rollmark. Anyone who says otherwise is retarded. The lower hardly takes any abuse, ar's are so hard to fuck up its a meme. The only way for peoples bants and shit slinging to be relevant is to spent more money and shit on everything they deem as poor. Building an ar15 is retard proof however they are the pinnacle of intermediate caliber rifles. That stagnation is the reason for people wanting to spend 3000$ to "have the best" because the reality of it is, the platform is the best and everyone has one so some people feel the need to have the "best of the best", diminishing returns be damned.

So theres no actual research on their little magic no lube coating?

If you're talking about BCG coating as in nickle boron, you still want lube but it will work dry. Anyone who recommends NiB over nitriding is retarded and miss informed. NiB can get super fucked if you get copper solvent on it and it has any cracks or blemishes. and over time it will wear out and start to crack. Its a surface coating and is significantly weaker than a nitrited surface. People all claim its so fucking easy to clean but I haven't noticed it being easier than nitriding, both of which are much easier than manganese phosphate millspec.

It sounds like it's a coating similar to teflon. The lower receiver doesn't need to be lubed generally, other than lightly on the trigger and hammer. Maybe a bit of oil on the pivot pins if you're feeling fancy. Lube the shit out of the BCG and upper.

taurus stopped their warranty, like LL bean and craftsman

i think hi-point is next to ditch that lifetime warranty shit

Californians get no sympathy here, which is disappointing

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>Californians get no sympathy here
We don't deserve any sympathy. We have failed as a state.

YIKES

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>Ryan C.
>Daniel Flores

lower
59.99 on sale
regular is 79.99
dros fee
25
dealer fee
10
fsc test
25
cable lock
8

I dont like spending more on the bullshit than the actual item costs
>how much are your bananas?
1$
>I'll take 2 bananas
that will be 4$ please

Nothing wrong with them. Literally the only reason I spend more is so I don't have the dreaded Poverty Pony on my gun. Pic related.

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Yo muh nigga. Hey from Hayward.

yes the FORGINGS, the milling is done by various places

yeah they're called forgings then machined into 80% or 100%'s

youtube.com/watch?v=a2n7SUQvo1M

>poverty pony
Goddammit I just wanted a budget build because I'm a poorfag.

its like having an RIA 1911 vs a Colt 1911
nothing to be proud of but they are both gonna do the same job

these days the RIA is apt to be better made

That's all I really need desu

>coming from barfcom
Go back

Has anyone ever put a KAC upper on a poverty pony?

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I've built three ARs, one with an 80%, one with an aero precision, and one with an anderson.
They all work. If all you want is a gun that works, then anderson should be fine.
That said, the finish is absolute shit quality, and the tolerances are pretty shit too. Some of the holes are too tight, which results in pins being a bit to get in, some holes are too loose, which results in a bit of wiggle.
The trigger guard on my 80% and aero are great, but the anderson rattles a bit and is annoying as shit. The rear takedown pin is tight and requires quite a bit of effort to take out. Before I even put the gun together, some of the finish was already wearing through.
If I build another AR, I would never use an anderson again.

>cable lock
>8
you know you can return that after you buy the gun, right?

eh fuck it. building a non compliant AR. might as well have a cable lock in case they kick my door down.

I bought six a couple years ago. Built them with several PSA kits, a RRA, and a BCM kit. All worked fine. The anodizing on them isn’t quite as glossy as some lather lowers I’ve seen, like PSA.
That’s it. Spend more money if you want a cooler rollmark

The only things that really, truly matter in an otherwise mil-spec ar platform rifle are the barrel and the trigger. Everything else is just gravy.

I fucking knew they were just fine