What knife do you use for EDC?

Steel hardness and brittleness go hand in hand. As a rule of thumb the harder a steel is the sharper it can get and the better it can hold an edge, but the more brittle it is and easier it is to snap. Likewise a softer steel can't get as sharp, won't hold an edge as well but won't won't snap either. You have to decide where you want the balance to be between sharpness and durability/resistance to snapping. You can't have the best of both worlds.

I suggest doing some research about the numerous types of knife steel and choosing a blade that suits your desires.

What was so bad about it?

>What knife do you use for EDC?

A CRKT M16-04Z and a Leatherman Surge. I used to carry a stainless SpyderCo for my blade, but it was a bit to heavy and the belt clasp kept wiggling loose.

It came to me so off center, it was scraping the outer liner. Tightening the pivot so it wasn't scraping the side made it completely unable to open since it was so tight. It was clear the blade pivot was drilled improperly and it was causing wear on the side and because of it scraping, the spring wasn't deploying the blade fully. It would stop about 75% of the way open, but when I sent it in for repair, It just came back to me tightened so it was centered, but just as when I did it, it was so tight it couldn't be opened. Zero effort to fix anything from ZT and then they ignored my emails from that point on. I was not impressed.

If walmart still sold the $4 tan ozark trail knives I'd tell you to buy several of those.

Spending any more than $30 on a knife is dumb really. I have a lot of knives from when I was a 13 year old knifefag that bought tons of them, most expensive thing I have is a delica 4.

If you are cutting so much shit that you need high end steels for edge retention, you probably should just be using a utility knife.
If you are not comfortable with losing it, using it to pry. as a screwdriver, cut zip ties or wire then you shouldn't be carrying it. It's like buying a hammer but you are too nervous to hit a nail with it because it'll scratch the hammer face.

Most of my knives I've never even sharpened because they don't get used much because I don't open that much shit when I am not at the house. I'd be scared to try and free hand this delica, because I've fucked up cheap blades years ago from not getting a consistent angle.
But this $4 one? who gives a shit what happens to it. Mora's? Easy to sharpen because of the scandi grind, I beat the piss out of them, cut wire, cut drywall at one point, split a 2x4 in half.

If I would do it over again I'd probably get a Finnwolf since it's cheap and scandi so it's easy to sharpen.
Would I carve and shit with a finn wolf? Yeah, with my delica? Fuck no.
The delica 4 is a nice knife, but what value does it actually have as a tool if I am afraid ot actually use it as such?

If the finnwolf was a spyderco I'd buy it immediately because I heard the studs need to be removed to properly sharpen the finnwolf. Plus I much much prefer the thumb hole over studs. Probably going to sell most of my stuff on arf or something, don't need tenacious, cryo, 400000 SAK's I never use.

Essentially, buy something cheap enough where you don't care if you actually use it as a tool.

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Moraknil Swede blade. 20$ at bass pro. Clips onto belts or basketball shorts. Good for my job of moving furniture in the big city. Cheap and tough enough to use as a screwdriver, and the grip is good enough to use for stabben

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Haha, that's funny I actually bought one of those a while back from walmart and was pretty impressed by it for a $4 knife.
I beat the piss out of it and it's still working great, when I went back to get a few more they were gone. Thanks for the recommendation on the finnwolf I haven't seen a scandi-grind pocket knife before and my Mora's hold up so well I'll probably buy it.
I still haven't purchased a more "boutique" knife because I'd be afraid of messing it up as well.
Great reply here's a cookie for your troubles.

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FPBP

I've got a few Mora blades too and love em (Broke the plastic belt clip on the sheath on one) but I need one that I can clip in my pocket.
And it looks like my next purchase will be the Finnwolf the guy above mentioned.

>ZT
>Cheap Kershaw

Kek

anyone who'd do this with their knife deserves to have a broken blade

And get a Moore Maker, they do a pretty good job of making a knife that'll take an edge and still has some toughness. Case, SOG, Buck all make some good knives. Old Timers and Uncle Henry knives that are US made are golden, the new ones are meh. Avoid Gerber the same way you avoid genital warts.

Anyone here have a Paramilitary 2? How does it close left-handed? Can it be closed like a back lock then manually guided in place or do you have to do the awkward pinch thing?I am aware that they make a left-handed version but it only comes in one steel/scale combination and the parts aren't interchangeable.

Why would you pry instead of twisting the spine up to remove the staple?

Because when you twist the spine up the end of the other staple stays in the board, when then requires you to manually pull it out. When I "pry" them it pops both ends off at the same time. I tried what you said didn't work when I was doing it.

You don't own a fucking leatherman?

I've considered buying one, but I would never use it enough to justify carrying one or paying 100 bucks for it.
I'd maybe use it at the most a couple times a month, not worth it for me, I'm hardly ever in situation that requires one.

quite like my CRKT Drifter
it takes the abuse that fucked up my Kershaw without problems.
It is a cheap knife that doesn't feel like a cheap knife, and if I fuck it up I will get another.

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I would get a Milwaukee Fastback Utility too so you have a usable replaceable blade option. Clip is not particulaly great but the handle is aluminum, quick change blade and is faster than the Stanley 99e pattern utility knives. $10 for one.

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I'm a science teacher, don't exactly use a heavy duty version very often. I have a bigger Leatherman I use when I'm working on projects, but I EDC a Leatherman Style PS. Thirty bucks max, good little pliers and scissors, folds up to the same length as a key.

its honestly not too bad left handed. i got used to it, carried it that way for a long time, you can pinch or thumb that shit but its not as badd once you figure out what works for you, depends on your hands size. but honestly the knife is mechanically perfect. its almost a better toy than cutting tool, except its also a phenomenal cutting tool

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I like it, might pick one of those up too.

tweezers can be handy if you're working around wood

fuck that man, the ozark steel is garbage, lockup unreliable, like its good for 4$ but for 10 more you can get like a crkt or something that works way better. shit is horrid man.
i never carry knives worth over 100$ tho :/ i feel you there. but the delica is a mainstay. i lost a salt 1 a month or two ago and i still get feels when i think about the custom grind i had on it and how much id work hardened the h1. went from like 440 grade sharpness retention to like vg10 over the years man. it got clipped off my pants onto a garbage bag on its way into a dumpster. climbed in the dumpster after it, couldnt find it

but still, a delica is imho the best possible knife, everything else is cool factor, pride in ownership/workmanship, man jewelry but who cares?

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that lockup is like swiss army knife grade man. you wanna drop 4$ on a blade instead of 20-60 be my guest but that shit is just dismal. that shit is atrocious. that lockup is about as tight as sasha grey

I spend money on proper carry knives but for a beater knife that you use for shit jobs and care nothing about, not bad. I tested mine by smacking the spine on a table and couldn't get it to close so... To each his own.

mora is great, but not the be all/end all of bushcraft blades, good entry point. i have the one in pic from amazon, it was like 14$ two years ago, completely changed how i play with wood.

then i got a condor mini-bushlore in carbon 1075 steel and it changed the game again...it was goddamn level performance from such a tiny blade. (my state has a 3" law but no one abides by it usually)

i thought about getting a finnwolf too but i decided not to on account of the aus-8 at the time,

And yet you're the faggot that bought the cheap blade

yo man sasha's pussy is actually tight af. she does a ton of kegels

i threw it into a wall and stabbed some studs. thats actually why the lockup is so bad. bought 2, one to beat on and modify the g10 scales for practice and the other to just have....that clip was so goddamn stiff m8.... like th screws were ultraloktite fusion grade welded in place. had to break it off. good for 4$ yeah, but idk not in the same league as like a bottom tier buck or crkt

for me my beaters are like the ontario rat 2 and endura saber ground, my nicer ones just get fondled

No play in these two, seen worse lock up in knives that cost 5 times as much.

Not saying it'd be my only knife but there value in something that is fairly good (I have a byrd that feels worse handle and finish wise) but is cheap enough where it's no real lose if destroyed.

never said her pussy m8

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thats fair, i have a byrd i love ergonomically, blade and everything is great but its got some mean lock rock and it makes me sad. can crank it down to where its not an issue but then i cant flick it open. idk i think the stop pins on my ozark trails are hollow so im not sure how much abuse it could take but ill concede for 4$ its performing at 4-5 times the price range

Yeah I looked up some videos but it seems to be people doing a kind of awkward pinch because they really want to flick it closed. I'm used to back locks and I'm just wondering if it's possible to close them just with the side of the thumb and a more secure grip on the knife

The byrd is the dragonfly equivalent, just feels unfinished. While that's the point I suppose as reflected by the cost, for $20 there is a lot out there that feels better. Sharp and blocky is what I say it is.

>Sharp and blocky is what I say it is.
Gen 1 or 2?

A lot of refinements were made in the second generation of Byrd knives.

Didn't buy it, got it as a gift.

>Checkmate

I might have bought a OD2 around the same time, remember seeing the nutn review on that.
Jesus, maybe 2010 or 2011, so I imagine it's well within a gen 1 time frame.

yes. it is possible as i am a lockback guy, rarely carry the pm2 but its because of price not difficulty in closing. you can totally close it left handed no problem like a lockback with just your thumb

i have the crow 2 and cara cara 2 frn and theyre both like really okay, cheaper versions of the branded counterparts with minor flaws. cerakoted my cara cara so its like an ffg endura now (rust resistance is important where i live) and the crow 2 has the slight but irritating lock rock

Alright boy, its time to get you a real knife. Razor edge, thicc ass blade stock, ergos for days, slim overall profile, knife of choice for Ranger medics. Get you a Yojimbo 2 my friend

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Benchmade Triage 917, great knife

I originally bought a dragonfly which I returned and got the delica instead. Got the byrd soon after. The hole is the real weak point, I remember never being able to deploy it as easy as the spyderco.

>Spending any more than $30 on a knife is dumb really.
Yeah maybe if it's a knife for opening mail. I use my knife in situations where life depends on it so I'm going to buy a $200 knife that I know I can trust every time.

The Boker/Wilson Cop Tool akshually makes a good pry bar with it's thicc blade. But then again it was made with that in mind

I was eyeing the Benchmade 915 Triage I like the sheeps foot blade what makes the 917 better?

To each their own, I guess. Expensive knives do the job just as well, if not better. My philosophy is that I use it every day, so it might as well be something cool. I'm just a NEET though, my mind might change if I worked construction every day.

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Higonokami

my man. My shooting gloves are industrial rubber palm, semi disposable cloth gloves. My grip is impossibru.

CRKT Shenanigan

I like Ozark knives too but if you get a rat 2 for example you get a shit ton of benefits worth the price jump. Most people here will admit diminishing returns above $100 but if you buy a not chink shit knife you'll generally find much better use out of it. Buying a $200 knife is a novelty for collecting or getting something unique, but saving an extra check for $50 is well worth it.

Swiss army knife, fieldmaster I think, it was one of the few that didn't have the absolutely pointless corkscrew they insist on putting on 90% of their range

No one here is talking about out door fixed blades. Expensive EDC knives are a giant meme because you don't need some dwarven steel to cut open a box.
If you use your knife so hard every day you need a high end steel, you are probably using it for work at which point you should just be using something disposable.
If the user is abusing it and doing work with his knife causing it to break the tip off then he might be better off with the cheap shit.
Or alternatively just buy one of the vast assortment of $20-$30 knives and just pull out staples with a 1/4 screwdriver like normal people do.

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I love my Ozarks.

Why? Because when a retard wants to borrow my knife I give them an Ozark. If they fuck it up, I don't give a shit.

I use knives with thin blade geometries and low edge bevel angles because I use my EDC knives to cut things rather than to pry, stab, or scrape.

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For EDC. I use a cheap SOG knife I bought off Amazon.
I use it to open boxes and mundane shit like that.

Greetings from Russia!

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What dumb shit are you doing to even get that result.

If you're going to use them as pry bars/general tools like I do look at Ganzo knifes. They're really durable - for the price. I go through two a year and they cost $20-40 depending on the model.

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How do you think they get the staples in in the first place? By hammering them in with the blade of a knife obviously.

It doesn't help that you can get 5 Ganzo Benchmade clones for less than the price of a single Benchmade.

Yeah and they aren't as good, if you're gonna get a cheap knife get a decent one that isn't a clone.

I carry a Ontario R.A.T. and a Spyderco. Both are used often, I would recommend a rat ii , it's a little more EDC size. If you have the $$ get a Benchmade or a higher end Spyderco.

has yojimbo as well
must be a good blade

damn that corkscrew is ass. ive actually tried using it as such and Ive found id rather have a purpose built corkscrew with the lifter/gear attachment because the older wine bottles with real cork can be such a pain. totally ruins pockets on SAKs. my first blade ever was a wenger SAK with cork screw, totally fucked my pockets up. fuck that half serrated blade wenger/vicnox does too on like 75% of their blades

Spyderco Military in S90V.

They're okay, but they're not really good for utility. It's designed as a fighting knife.

ive had a few ganzos and they are decent steel but dont take abuse well at all. the stop pin is hollow so any impact at all and the lockup is gone. as a pure cutting tool tho theyre pretty okay if youre a cheap bastard and can wait for cheap shipping from china. can usually get them about 40-60% cheaper from chinese websites like gearbest if you dont mind waiting 2 weeks shipping. the amazon prices are higher but ship faster, fewer models too because of lawsuits and what not

Found this picture on the internet, what model knife is this?

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>Update

I bought a Benchmade Triage 915 since I'm going into the EMS field. I'll use a beater knife I don't care about for days I do projects.
I appreciate all the posts and recommendations.

What? They have great utility. The straight edge allows for even pressure on the entire cutting surface, reducing slippage if you're cutting rope or cable ties. The only thing I've heard about is the tip can be fragile if you're prying.

Yo I found it on /out... looks like a Amzler, forget the model. They also make a cool one call the hurricane razor... or wait I maybe wrong it could be a popular custom that Boker makes production ones of... sorry can’t be more help

Regardless of the blade in question, it has been warned countless times over years that knives should never be used as pry bars unless you’re using a high carbon steel with a very thick spine and you have no other option. Knives are meant to only have pressure applied against the edge.

You’re just a fucking retard who doesn’t heed the warnings of others. The tip bent while using it to pry? No shit idiot, theres not shit for material there and you used literally the weakest point of a blade to apply the most structurally stressful type of pressure.

It's the boker mini silk tanto.
Also, I'm pretty sure I've seen that picture on /out/ a few days ago.

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I'm just a fetus how am I supposed to know this?

Depends on the day but my favorite is the standard foldable buck knife

This little fixed blad has proven to be perfect size. D2 tool steel...and pretty reasonably priced compared to a high end folder

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Benchmade triage at work and an umnumzaan everywhere else

I work on a farm and I carry cheap folders. I use and abuse them all day and I lose them often. Right now I have a cheap Kershaw as well. I've had it for over a year and the clip came off a couple months ago.

I have a drawer full of Case knives that I get for free from companies I do business with. When I lose that Kershaw, I'll switch to one of them.

My favorite knife is my spyderco. I carry it when dressed up or on vacation.

hipster meme garbage

I EDC spyderco manix 2.

Pos broken Kershaw.

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Fellas, is a Ka-Bar knife a memey knife?

Stop being a fag and make your own

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Preach

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That a seax?

Police on the scene describe the alleged overweight fedora'd attacker as having made his own knife

Spyderco Centofante; just had a dream I snapped it just like in your pic, by being a retard