Daily reminder that this is fucking coconut oil.
I had to deep clean all the guns I thought I had lubed up for long term storage because this shit turned into gunk after anfrw months and made the actions barely usable. People have also reported ants attacking their guns.
DO NOT PUT FOOD IN YOUR GUNS, THROW THIS SHIT IN THE TRASH.
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>DO NOT PUT FOOD IN YOUR GUN
Enfi-chan is hungry though user, and I can't afford .303.
what is this 2013? nobody uses that shit.
Dumb frogposter
I gave this shit a chance because I wanted something I could use indoors without fumes and it caused nothing but problems. It's a royal pain in the ass to get rid of once it's gummed up the inside of your guns too.
I stopped using it when it gummed up one of my guns. It was applied from the factory like that and gummed up, so I reapplied as instructed with the sample provided, and it gummed up again.
Fast forward years later, this past labor day, I was out shooting with friends and one had an 870 that wouldn't fire. Turns out frog lube gummed up his firing pin channel somehow.
The promise of easy clean up is made moot once it fails and you have to detail strip your guns to clean it out anyway.
>Thinks we use anything but CLP....
>His bottles of Breakfree look weird, and he’s talking about coconuts.
CLP is shit too. It attempts to do 3 jobs in 1 but doesn't do any if them decently.
Best cleaner I've found so far is water (preferably warm) and Ajax dish soap. No fucking joke, try this shit. Only downside is you have to get all the soap/water out so don't use it on areas you can't dry easily. Same applies to solvents (including CLP), most people don't realize how much damage they're doing to metal parts by leaving solvents on them (especially inside the barrel).
Best lube/preservative is motor oil. Seriously you can't beat it. Perfect consistency to remain on the parts, designed to stay there long term, and doesn't gunk up in cold weather. Also cheap as hell, a quart will last you your whole life.
>he uses clp
>he doesnt squirt white creamy LSA all inside his raifus reciever and down her bore
>Breakfree
>I like my guns to dry up after a couple days and I also leave solvents on my gun because I think it's lube
uses hyped water based oils instead of common automotive products because 'gun arn't machines'
Hint: PPL die when their guns don't work
Oh I’m wet Jerry, I’m wet.
It's not. For one thing coconut oil gets hard at room temperature. Ans finally stuff like fireclean ans gun lube might be similar but cannot be veggie oil. I know this because I tried lubing guns with vegetable oil and it stinks like rotting food after a week. The recipe on this shit is different somehow
Motor oil is a broad term. What you need is gear and bearing lubricant, it's painfully obvious
Reminder that pic related is the superior product
It's called mint extract.
>Using anything but Eds Red to clean your gun, and motor oil to keep it lubed.
Anyone tried white lithium grease or the shit they use for ball bearings? I'm worried about how they hold up against carbon fouling.
DESU I think it's about damn time we had some chemist or engineer who works on this shit for a living to sort this out once and for all what product to use that can reliably and efficiently clean up carbon deposits, lead and copper fragments, solvents from corrosive ammo (what type of solvents they are I don't know), while being thin and oily enough to lube and prevent rust on moving parts
Lmao this is why you just stick to Hoppe's
Mpro 7 the best
>it’s not
>because I think so
They have done Mass spectrometer tests on both fire clean and froglube
Froglube is coconut oil with stabilizers added to it to keep it liquid.
Even with the small Amt of additives they are still mostly vegetable oil
Based Ballistol poster
>keep the hood safe, H
so you cant use WD40?
Solvents =/= lubricants. Solvents are designed to remove fouling and can be harsh on finish, metals, and polymers. You want to remove them as best you can after using them.
Lubricants are easy. You can use a ton of household oils and greases to lube a gun. They're very simple machines. I would say lubricants designed for vehicles work best because a shit ton of engineering has gone into vehicle lubricants. There are several different types to choose from too.
Lubricants will not ever remove fouling. I don't think that's physically or chemically possible. They're always going to capture and absorb it. Upside of this is it makes cleaning more easy because all the fouling is wet.
Harshest fucking solvent there is. I would absolutely never use it. This shit was made to remove grout stains, not clean guns. It's way too heavy duty to just remove simple carbon fouling on a gun. The shit is known to strip finishes, idk why anyone would use it unless they think that Walmart is the only place to buy gun accessories, or they purposely wanted to remove their gun finish.
Dump stol poster.
There was a difference in mass spectrometry and just because it is "vegetable oil based" doesn't mean it is veggie oil. Meth and adderall are only a molecule apart but that doesn't mean they are the same thing. Not that I am defending using this shitty shitty lube, I use slip 2000
>just because it's vegetable oil doesn't mean its vegetable oil
do you realize what you just said tard.
That's water based so it's not a good long term lubricant. It'll evaporate pretty quickly. The best use case for that stuff is for cleaning dirty, squeaky door hinges. It doesn't last long once it clears out all the crap. Not a horrible cleaner though (and this goes to show you don't really need a harsh solvent to clean a gun, you could use something as simple as wd40 if you wanted and it's definitely NOT a solvent. You basically just have to get all the fouling wet and clean it off. Fucking soapy water can do that, so stop wasting your money on snake oil).
>This shit was made to remove grout stains, not clean guns
I don't know if that's true, but Hoppes certainly advertises as a gun cleaner now, and the product is marketed towards gun owners, wouldn't it make sense for them to have modified the original formula if it's too harsh on steel and wood?
too bad it's literally the best non-toxic lubricant and rust protector, but then cosmoline is a great rust protector
>forums.outdoorsdirectory.com
maybe try One Shot instead
Ballistol is a fucking great cleaner, but is not a great lubricant and is a piss-poor rust protector
not if you want lasting lubrication or cleaning
use WD-40 Specialist instead
Talk to the people who didn't run enough patches through their barrel after using that shit. It's too goddamn harsh. It's like they thought gunpowder dust on metal required skin melting acid to remove.
Talk to the people who didn't run enough patches through their barrel after using that shit. It's too goddamn harsh. It's like they thought gunpowder dust on metal required skin melting acid to remove.
Also don't ever use this stuff to jack off.
This.
Both of y’all should checkout bobistheoilguy. One of the best lubricant forums out there. Some Mobil, Castrol, and Petronas engineers hang out there too sometimes. Some of the discussions get pretty scientific.
I've never used it. Doesn't if freeze up your gun in cold weather?
Does anyone have the study where the guy used a bunch of different products on ball bearings to see which ones would protect from rust best?
Can't find it anywhere.
I saw someone compare rusting washers once on the internet and now I'm eezox shill. It smells like bananas and gives you cancer if you touch it, so it must be a good clp.
kek
It gums up your gun in normal weather. It basically rots in your gun and turns into a sticky paste. Like very sticky, you'll need something as harsh as hoppes to clean the shit out.
Greases can be hard to clean out once they get fouled up. They also can have issues jamming up the gun in cold weather. If you live in a hot area though I'd say go grease because the heat can cause the oil to be less viscous and basically melt off quicker, whereas a grease in hot weather will perform more similarly to an oil.
How can you fail this badly?
Where is that comparison?
Also
>gives you cancer if you touch it
Wut?
>Not using your lube to cook field meals
Never gonna make it
t.read that day at the range article and believes it
protip there are like a dozen different wd-40 specialists and the article never tells you which
The rust prevention one...
It doesn't do well as a line though. He was pretty much only testing the rust prevention capabilities, and only used one product specifically designed to prevent rust.
>as a line
As a lube
I'm not from Jow Forums, what's wrong with wd-40?
Thanks for telling us something everyone on the planet already knows.
Doesn't last long enough to be an effective lube or rust prevented, evaporates really fucking fast.
I'll stick with balistol and bearing grease. Get the most for my money and its superior to any meme product.
>rust prevention one
Long term corrosion inhibitor?
Top kek
oki doki. ty user.