Wheelgun thread

Personally I prefer the K and N frame, but this 586 no dash was like new condition for 650 so I couldn’t pass on it. The 6” barrel makes it crap for carry, though, so I’m hoping to find something 4” at the gun show. Gunbroker had some stuff I was looking at but either went for more money than I was willing to spend or the seller didn’t respond to my questions.

>gunbroker.com/item/788998538
HAHAHAHAHAm thank you!!!!!!

why does colt refuse to go all in back into their wheelgun production?

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YOU MUST BUY IT

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Because Mexico can barely make the parts for their shitty new Cobra correctly?

I thought people hated the cobra because it was .38 only and the glitter finish

Nothing wrong with a 38 snub. Cobra sucks because the finish is shit, it's made in Mexico and it's overpriced because it says COLT on the side. Anyone looking for a "working gun" can get a better gun for half the price. I don't know what Colt was thinking other than "boomers will buy this because Colt was the shit when they were young".

Because they're retarded. If it weren't for a certain 107 year old handgun design, Colt would have died decades ago.

I imagine Cletus was sitting down with bubba and one of them thought that since .44 equals bigger boom, then big frame parts equql more stronk. unfortunately it made the gun's double action almost inoperable.

>not thinking like a jew.
>selling to dad was an investment for when he dies

Because everyone's clued into the fact that modern, "Classic" Colts are overpriced, outsourced junk, further reducing the already tiny demographic who is willing to pay $2500-3000 for a revolver based solely on the fact it has Colt written on it.

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Picked up this Ruger GP100 for $400 with a holster and 100 rounds of mixed .357

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Nice catch. I can't find an old Ruger where I live under $600.

There’s a few in Georgia on armslist right now under $500

gunbroker.com/item/791914366

gunbroker.com/Revolvers/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&BuyNowOnly=1&mfg=1000240&mo=3001713&ca=5000093&Condition=4

First for BIG IRON

Bought myself a Walker clone off a local forum for $300, unfired in box with a holster thrown in. How'd I do? Does Jow Forums recommend I shoot ball or conical ammo?

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Just bought a 1924 Colt police positive 38 special for $519

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Nice gat.

Now that’s a big iron. Don’t know anything about black powder so I couldn’t tell you, but love the walker.
Here’s my decently sized iron

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>How'd I do?

I would have bought it new for $400
That's what I did with my Dragoon.

Are gunshows worth going to?

Only for the atmosphere. The internet has killed the ability to find a hidden treasure.

I am looking for a 1908 Colt.
I might have to go to one if I can't find it at the LGS

gunbroker.com/Semi-Auto-Pistols/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&mfg=1000072&mo=3000543

Who usually has the cheapest transfers?

You're gonna have to look around your area user it's different all over. I have a LGS that does them for $15.

I want a wheel gun for carry when hiking and I’m on the fence between either a 3” or 4” SP101 or a 4” GP100. The GP is a big gun while the SP is more handy but the GP is incredibly tough and gives me an extra round (don’t want a 7 shot because of autism). I’d prefer a Security Six but if anything were to happen to it I’d be SOL, whereas with a GP100 Ruger will have parts for those for another half century at least.

I keep going back and forth between a .44 mag Redhawk or .357 mag other Ruger but I think I’m going to go .357 simply because i don’t reload and it’s cheaper.

For anything short of bear country 357 is plenty. 4" would be preferable over 3" because I'm assuming you would be open carrying innawods. GP100 is heavy so if the extra round bugs you too much to get the SP101 your next best bet is a 4" S&W model 66.

We’ve got bears but they’re small, and there are only like a dozen big bears that wander around between like three states and Canada around here. I’d also want a levergun to pair with it because that’d be fun, and .357 just seems like it’d be more fun than a .44 from a lever gun.

For everything except shooting I prefer S&W over Ruger (except for the Security Six), but I’d be buying it as a utility and woods beater and not a safe queen so I don’t know how I’d like a S&W for that. I’d prefer a pinned and recessed or at least pre lock S&W but I also like the idea of the Ruger being able to handle a lifetime diet of full power loads, plus I like the cheaper price on the Rugers.

With a Ruger I’d be fine with beating it up, with a S&W it’d be hard not to get bothered by every little ding it gets. Would a S&W hold up as well as a Ruger as a beater woods gun?

The only reason to buy a minty pre-lock S&W is as a collectible. If you want a "working" gun just buy a more used pre-lock or a Nu Smith. If I couldn't find a deal on a used pre-lock I'd get a nu-Smith, remove the lock and then use the shit out of it with no fucks given. It will be fine. In some ways Nu-Smith guns are much better than Pre-locks. The two piece barrels are more accurate and they are designed with modern magnum loads in mind(no more fucked forcing cones). They are lesser in fit, finish and possible QC issues. If you know how to inspect a revolver you can avoid the QC problem and sinec you want a gun you can not worry about the finish on who gives a shit about Nu-Smiths' shitty finish??

thesixgunjournal.net/a-revolver-buyers-checklist/

Would a newer K frame hold up to a decent amount of hot .357 loads? I don’t really want an L frame. I had a 13-1 for a while but sold it because I didn’t care about collecting and I wanted something that was beefier and that I wouldn’t be paranoid about hurting

A 4” K frame S&W would be the perfect size, I just can’t get away from the absurd toughness of a GP100

Yes new K-frames are gtg. If you manage to wear one out you've gotten your money's worth. Most people spouting off about how "tough" Rugers are will never reach the round counts necessary to prove it.

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Should I nab a M1905 S&W .38 for $300 or keep looking for a S&W M1917 for a neat WWI .45ACP revolver?

Why do people do this? Only you know what you want and what it's worth to you.

I like both revolvers and I’ve got no idea what a good price for either is because I’m a noguns newfag who likes old wheelgats

Depending on condition $300 isn't bad for a 1905. I'd really recommend looking for a later model K frame 38 like an M&P or a model 10 though. Same classic lines but with the updated hammer block safety. Go look at the post right under the OP.

Muh 1948 M&P.

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If you want to get an idea about pricing spend a few months following auctions on gunbroker.

I've got an opportunity to check out an old Smith and Wesson .38 snub. Looks like a chiefs special, flat latch. Guy says the ejector rod doesn't work smoothly in some cylinder positions. This is something I can send in and get Smith to fix for free, right? Should I send an old gun to get fucked by Nu Smith? It's priced at 250.

Smith won't do shit for old guns, especially not for free, and I wouldn't trust them if they did. If you're not the mechanical type you need to look for a competent local gunsmith. Diagnosing and repairing a S&W isn't rocket science.

>ejector rod doesn't work smoothly in some cylinder positions

This makes no sense. Are you saying it won't extract on some chambers? Are you saying the star is fucked so the timing is off?

>That 25lb DA trigger pull tho

Figure out if its in .38 Special or .38SW before you consider it. If it's 38SW, ammunition is much, much less commonly available.

The ejector rod might be bent. If you look at the gun make sure to open the cylinder and spin it, watch the ejector rod for wobble.

Buds has Model 10 Polich trade ins in poor finish condition for $229 under the used guns. I bought one, thing is great other than the ugly grips. Mechanically perfect but worn finish. I highly suggest it.

Unfortunately I'm a michigan-fag and online retailers don't understand our pistol law and refuse to ship here despite them being completely unregulated. BP is completely unregulated, but BP pistols can't ship with a conversion cylinder unless it's to an FFL. Because they don't want to do 3 seconds of work to exclude shipping cartridge revolvers to MI, they won't ship fucking anything instead. Pricks.

Just have your LGS order it.
I got mine through Shootstraight and the (slightly) higher purchase price was equal to or less than anywhere online when shipping was taken into account.

How do you like the handle?
I chose the Dragoon because of its girthier grip and its proper lever latch, but now I'm thinking of buying a Walker so that I can switch the barrel and cylinder.
I can just use a brass band to secure the loading lever.
I plan on getting a conversion cylinder and there's a lot more you can do in terms of projectiles if you use a 460 S&W case in the longer Walker cylinder.

>tfw 19
>no handfuns until 21
REEEEEE

I'm picking it up tomorrow morning and heading straight to the range, I'll bump the thread with a live report. I'm bringing a couple of twist ties to handle the loading lever until I can 3d print a proper clip for it.

My model 10 collection

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Take all that shit out, clean it and the put grease all over everything and put it back together...

Beautiful, excuse my plebness but are there any important differences between them? Lookds like different sights and barrel profiles.

Dude buy it! Usually police trade-ins are a good deal. That specific example looks to be in pretty good condition.

Not that user but except for minor differences if they are different dashes the only real difference is that two have heavy barrels and one is tapered.

Also one heavy barrel is a square butt and one is a round butt

That picture was the first time I took the sideplate off after getting it home from the gun store.

It was in pretty bad condition, a police surplus mixmaster with different parts, needed the following but damn it's a fine shooter now that I have everything repaired.

Cylinder stop (Hand fit, holy shit it takes forever)
Cylinder stop spring
Endplay shims between cylinder and crane
Shims between crane and frame
Ejector rod
Ejector rod center pin
Ejector rod latch

Best way to clean rust off a blued smith and Wesson?

Oil it and buff the rust off with fine synthetic steel wool. Don't be stingy with the oil.

The model 10 was offered with different barrels and grip frame styles.

Basically the barrels came in heavy or tapered and the grip frames were either rounded or squared at the bottom rear. I wanted to cover the whole range, with the exception of the round butt tapered barrel version which is pretty rare.

left to right we have a model 10-11 heavy barrel round butt, in the center is a model 10-7 tapered barrel square butt, and the rightmost is a model 10-8 heavy barrel square butt.

Of the three I like the heavy barrel square butt the best, it feels good in the hand and is hefty, and is accurate as fuck. (1.5" round steel targets at 30 feet all day long.)

The heavy barrel square butt is the sex. I'm looking to get a 586 but can't pick between 4" and 6"

I think I would try lightly brushing it with a phosphor bronze or brass brush and see if that gives the desired effect before moving to steel wool. Though I definitely agree that CLP should be present no matter what you decide to do.

There's no reason not to use synthetic steel wool. It's not gonna do anything but take the rust off.

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Oh like a brillo pad? If that's the case then, yeah I agree with you.

I wouldn't use a brillo pad...

homedepot.com/p/3M-2-in-x-4-in-0000-Super-Fine-Synthetic-Steel-Wool-Pads-6-Pack-10119/203783555

I mean I guess it's like anything, just depends on how hard you scrub with it.

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>that import mark

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I dunno man, import marks mean it was ordered by some entity outside the US and then re-impoted as surplus for sale on the civilian market at some point. There are some really cool Royal Hong Kong Police model 10s floating around with RHKP markings. I would get history letters on mine from S&W if it weren't so damn expensive.

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good job. i have the same one with stainless finish. it's a magnificent gun by any standard