/msg/ - Military Surplus General

Attached: 46378337_10156490032645269_1338967818443423744_o.jpg (2048x1091, 148K)

What's the general condition of the wood and metal?
I want to say yes, but if it's beat to shit then probably not.

>all matching 1944 Garand
U.S. surp isn't heavily serialized so of course it's matching. Pretty sure, though I could be wrong, it's just the receiver that has a number.

Yeah that's pretty good as long as it's better than Field grade. Even then 800 plus transfer otd is better than waiting on the cmp to save $30.

It’s good, but kinda dull

>good, but kinda dull
Might need a little more description.

What should I expect to pay for an 1894 Swede bayonet?

1894 Swedes did not have bayonets.

as long as its not a commercial built its a good price

Lets see those rare enfields lads

Attached: 71338CD3-48E2-427E-9944-93FA12DCBE51.jpg (640x1136, 110K)

I have a .303 rebarreled ishapoo, not rare just odd that it wasn't rebarreled to .308.

whats the stamping to look for that indicates a rebarreling? i come across .303 poos every so often, ill be on the lookout if you tell me

Nice. I don't have any rare Lees, just my WW1 Brit and WW2 Poo and Aussie.

Attached: ENG - SMLE.jpg (2560x1440, 1.07M)

Ishapore made over a million No 1 rifles. No No.1 rifles were re-barreled to .308.
The 2A rifles were all new made with different steel in the receiver.

Basically just newer than the rest of the rifle. Crisp rifling, clean near pristine finish, and Ishy arsenal marks. The 1954 receiver is pitted and covered in heavy paint as per usual. Compared to other .303 ishy barrels I've seen this one is definitely one of the best.

Fair enough, I figured they were strapped enough that they'd do anything to save a dollar.

I love my Kropatschek, I think I need a Vergueiro or a Marata next.

Attached: 20181213_125503.jpg (1120x2016, 1.03M)

I know black powder ammo is pretty much unobtanium, but where should I start with the black powder milsurps? Are there any that are reasonably priced (the gun, not the ammo)?

1873 and later Trapdoors are reasonableish and you can still get ammo for them commercially (just stay away from hot stuff).

Attached: USA - 1884 Trapdoor Springfield.jpg (3999x823, 1.84M)

Trapdoor Springfields are by far the easiest to deal with, followed by Civil War rifle muskets (Pattern 1853, 1861 Springfield) are also fairly easy to deal with. After that Martinis and Chassepots are from what I can gather not that awful to deal with.

Once you get one black powder brass cased rifle you'll get addicted to shooting them. I'd keep an eye out for some used reloading presses and lead casting equipment. You can get a lot of weird casings from starline brass or fire form your own. also Accurate Mold's can make you any bullet mold you can imagine for less than 100 bucks.

>Marata
good luck

Attached: mutsu nagato loading 1869 veterlli.jpg (1600x1200, 468K)

Verguiero. In 6.5.

Attached: 20180427_111235.jpg (4032x1092, 2.91M)

Have likewise come across an example or two of these, have no unique insight on them otherwise however. Certainly less common than the .308 rifles.

I’m lusting after an Ulster Volunteer Force marked Lee Speed but can’t afford to drop 1750$, hold me lads ;_;

Attached: 071B96E4-B847-4E64-84AF-1E8319E46353.jpg (640x1136, 155K)

Bumping with some of my Asian surps.

Attached: Sino-Japanese War collection.jpg (3773x1753, 1.53M)

How much should an average condition 1873 trapdoor cost?

Do you still have to go through paperwork to buy pre-1899 guns in California?

No, Sleepy we done told ye.

What's a decent price for a WWI Lithgow SMLE with its original stock disc present?

>$800 for an APX L806 scope

what the actual FUCK is this?

Attached: 1531106284116.png (612x491, 106K)

Online retail average condition (good bore/good wood) average price is $600-$900 for an original. Less than $500 its either a deal or a pitted piece of crap that sat in a barn for 100+ years. Auction price don't know. Never seen one at a gun show over the past year so don't know.

Attached: M1873 Trapdoor 2.jpg (2483x559, 380K)

Any good resources for finding info on Mausers, variants, nations and production, particularly with Chinese rifles?

Are there any recommended online shops that don’t screw you over, or do most of you guys just come across them in the wild? I’m looking for a 1917 Enfield but I don’t want to be poor because of it.

Only once have I actually ordered milsurp online, and that was for my first rifle back when I had no idea what I was doing.

Everything since I've bought in person while shopping around gun stores and gun shows in the area.

What's the middle one and where do I buy it?

Found in LGS mis-marked as No 1 MK III and priced accordingly

Attached: IMG_0488.jpg (1269x1063, 386K)

Long Lee converted to Mk II RF Trainer

Attached: IMG_3068.jpg (943x1020, 293K)

"Bitsa" Pattern 14/No 2 Mk IV trainer

Attached: IMG_4262.jpg (1801x2937, 1.76M)

MAS-36. They seem to pop up at gun shows occasionally. They're really unorthodox guns, but they've got probably the best practical sights I've ever encountered.

Attached: hon hon hon.jpg (4032x3024, 3.89M)

How do you get that bolt back together?

Date on the Nambu pls

Attached: IMG_0024.jpg (1310x1162, 338K)

Two hands and a work bench edge. You have to rotate the bolt head and the cocking piece together.

Attached: 20180427_111012.jpg (3880x838, 2.61M)

>gun is badly labeled and can't be found except through pure luck
>win it for a low price due to this
>only bidder too
I love stupid people who spell things like "Egyption" and "mauzer".

So, when does your Hakim get here, user?

LGS just got a Rasheed in 7.62x39, all matching parts, $1000. Do I pull the trigger or save for a better find?

Had similar luck, someone on GB posted Luger magazines as "P.O8" instead of "P.08"

Attached: Luger (3).jpg (1173x1291, 662K)

$1000 is a bit on the high side, but they're not getting any cheaper. As long as it's all clean and has the magazine, you could go for it if you really want one. I'd recommend trying to talk them down a bit though.

gunbroker.com/item/794307066

This guy has a Romanian-contract Czech vz.24 for sale and has labeled it "Chex VZ 24". Unfathomable stupidity for someone with an FFL. How lazy can you be?

Attached: 1489292177350.png (426x399, 235K)

Damn, should've picked up the one I saw at a show for $650.

April of '44, its absolutely my favorite pistol in my collection. It works pretty good too.

Attached: Type 14 with Cig case.jpg (3346x2510, 1.28M)

So, bought a Swiss model 1867 Peabody, and I need to make a replacement centerfire breechblock because I am apparently a masochist with an 10.4x38mmR fetish.

anyone have any thoughts on where I might be able to locate blueprints for the thing? long shot sure, but reverse-engineering this thing is nightmare, there's no convenient datums to measure from. might even end up going down the rabbit-hole of 3d-scanning to capture the more bullshit geometry.

Also, any thoughts on acceptable alloy? Obviously 4140 would be fine, but unless I went with PHT, it's gonna need case hardening and that's yet another rabbit hole I'm not sure I want to go down just yet. I could probably just say fuck it and run straight 1144 alloy and call it a day, 100k psi yield and rockwell 23 should be totally fine...

Attached: img001.jpg (888x429, 159K)

I am going to try to knock him down to $900 OTD. It’s all parts matching and as far as I can tell in pristine condition.

Its amazing how often I see "8mm Labelle" on message boards

Attached: 051515-patti-labelle-joins-after-midnight-cast.jpg (2238x2801, 3.41M)

Samefag here, I was about to ask what ASGK meant, but I realize this is airsoft.
It drives me insane how a chunk of the community evidently consists of mouth breathers. I've even seen Mosins labeled as "Mauzers" or "Mousers" or no model even listed, just the suspected country of origin.

Did you put in a new spring set?

Also what ammo are you using? If you are reloading, whats your recipe?

Attached: c3106deb92d6be7d656decbd9cc50679.jpg (600x662, 93K)

I'm using the centerfire block from my CT militia Peabody as reference

Attached: IMG_4983.jpg (1944x1151, 138K)

No, and to my knowledge they're original. I'd say I acquired the pistol some time in September from a trade, the ammo I was using was the new production 8mm (formed from .357 sig cases) sold on buffalo arms, but I just checked and it seems they're out of stock.

I just bought Swedish Mauser clips for my Type 38 Arisaka. I hope they work

When it stops cycling well, get a Wolff Service Pack. Conventional wisdom is the original springs are crap and should be replaced. If yours are working its not an issue.

Will say it greatly improved the trigger on mine

Perhaps mine already had them installed. The dude I got it from just wanted a WASR, and I don't think he knew much about the pistol. I assumed he got it from his grandfather or great grandfather.

Swedish Mauser clips work in Arisakas, the Ljungman, Ishapore 2A/2A1s, Springfield 1903/03A3, M1917 Enfields, K31s, MAS 36, 49/49-56 and most of, if not all small ring Mausers. Probably a bunch of other shit too. They're multicultural.

>It drives me insane how a chunk of the community evidently consists of mouth breathers.

Not an extreme example but I bought my numbers matching, vet-bringback paperwork Kar98k with bayonet from a fudd gun shop on Gunbroker. They had 3 grainy photos from 10 feet back and didn't mention whatsoever that the thing is immaculate and has a mirror bore.

My guess is that they probably dismissed it as some old Kraut gun you used to buy for $80 back in their day and have no idea whatsoever of Wehraboo autism and the fact that people will go into insane bidding wars over this kind of stuff.

Some people just hate money.

Attached: Kar98k (1).jpg (1243x932, 967K)

What's the general consensus of dudes using linseed oil on their furniture? I wouldn't do it myself but I've had someone suggest to me to do that, and I've seen it on other surp groups.

Can confirm they work.

Attached: weeb autism '41.jpg (4032x1598, 3.36M)

Gonna start a holy war but here we go...

Some purists will insist that only *raw* linseed oil is the way to go, but its sticky, messy and takes forever to dry.

I've also heard oldfags say of BLO "once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, then once a year" but I've had it getting sticky after two coats so fuck that.

I found the best advice with BLO is to cut it with turpentine 50/50. But get the good steam distilled turpentine from an art supply store for best results.

If you are a lazy-ass, or want a "daily driver" finish, go with Watco Danish oil, its one and done, and will last a looooong time. However, it doesn't have that aesthetic "glow" of BLO

Pic related is from my "bitsa" SMLE trainer: It was an old Mk I buttstock which was degreased and then received four coats of BLO

Attached: IMG_4456.jpg (2449x2089, 1.79M)

Raw linseed oil was the only finish approved for British weapons.
Each soldier was issued two ounces to rub into the wood. The raw oil would remain matte, any soldier that used BLO would end up with a shiny rifle and would be forced to strip and refinish it.

Liking that Koishikawa bayo!

Thanks the rifle is also Koishikawa best I could tell. I lucked out and found a bunch of bayonets all around the time I bought the rifle. The store I bought it from had a last ditch bayonet, and then the next weekend the Chantilly Gun Show had a couple guys with 5 different Jap bayonets between them for me to choose from.

Attached: reee quatro get out.jpg (720x696, 116K)

You should've bought all the Japanese bayonets you could afford. Prices have gotten stupid in the past decade or so

Attached: bayomarkings.jpg (800x780, 106K)

ehh my collection's aimed more at other things. At the time I had just started my new job so I was short on cash, and there was a guy at that same show selling a 7.5 French Lebel Trials Rifle for $1500, so if I had money for anything it was going to go towards that.

Attached: Chili and Type 38.jpg (4032x3024, 3.82M)

Damn that looks beat up, is the Mum intact or disfigured (as opposed to ground)

Which series Kokura is it?

and thank you for not calling it Labelle

Can also confirm, they work good in a lot of things actually.

Attached: 20180612_202035.jpg (3915x1038, 3.19M)

>light corrosion in the barrel

should I be concerned lads? or is it shootable?

I was thinking about getting a Mauser 98. So I can just go to a shop and buy one without doing anything before hand?

It's unnecessary at best, at worst it'll change the appearance of the stock. The stock doesn't need to be re-oiled, period. It has tons of oil in it already. It doesn't magically disappear. When you rub oil into the stock you're just pushing oil on top of oil. They become blackened messes in due time.

And I know, "but the manual says to do so!" The military didn't give a shit about the rifle stock lasting. They had piles of them to replace it with when it got nasty.

Here is an ORIGINAL finish on this Krag.

Attached: IMG_0115.jpg (1600x413, 466K)

They work in K31s? Seriously?

Only if the wood is dry or abraded. If all you're doing is keeping it in a safe, you probably don't need to re oil it.
I don't know the exact chemical or technical process, but some conditions will cause the oil finish to degrade or disappear, at which point the wood of the stock can be damaged (it may crack, chip, split, etc.). At this point, the stock should be re oiled.

is 500 too much for a matching chinese sks?
It's part of an auction btw, little to no people partaking compared to others I've seen so I may have more of a chance.

Sure. But don't expect to find an actual 1898 produced 98 mauser. 99.99% of them were produced after Jan 1 1898

>is 500 too much for a matching chinese sks?
In the US? No.
In Canada? Yes.

yeah sorry about that, I'm in the US

hello yes pls to answer this

>what are pictures

What do y'all think of Turkish 98 Mausers?

The stock oil has NOTHING to do with preserving the piece of wood. It's one and only job is to keep out excess moisture while also looking good.

It will not prevent cracks, splinters or rot or anything. And no, it does not disappear. It won't evaporate. There are 700+ year old pieces of furniture with their original finish intact. A 70 year old piece of wood can last the same.

Attached: IMG_0147.jpg (1505x334, 330K)

Linseed oil polymerizes as it dries, which hardens and stabilizes the surface of the wood. The finish can be removed or damaged by gun cleaning products and UV radiation, as well as simple abrasion.

it's part of a sale I am looking at. no pictures provided. just "light corrosion".

They're certainly not bad, but they're basically the least not bad of all the mausers

Anybody have a picture of a MAS-36/51 with bayonet affixed? I'm having a hard time visualizing how much bayonet you have beyond the grenade launcher.

Then hope his word is true, if it's light it's a non issue. If its serious and has corrosion on the barrel under the stock then you've got a nice wallhanger.

>polymerize
Another word is oxidizes. That happens when it dries. That oxidation also turns the finish that lovely reddish tint over time.
>can
It's called don't be an idiot.

Attached: IMG_0126.jpg (1599x913, 660K)