Reloading Thread?

Yup.
New primer, bullet, and powder go into a resized case.
Glad you made a thread about it you autistic fuckwit

Depending on the size of your tumbler, it's usually half water, splash of dawn, 1/2 tsp of lemi shine. I'm using a frankford arsenal so YMMV. The grey color might be coming from tumbling for too long and the shit in your water starting to coat on your cases.

So, I want to get into it for two reasons, A, I want to tune a loading for a long range rifle to shoot distance, and B, I want to be able to load fuckloads of rounds for my fuddy five to shoot a lot of ammo. What's the best setup for me to make a lot of ammo really quick but still make good rifle ammo?

How does a newfag get into reloading?

Probably a turret or progressive. You don't want a single stage to load a ton of ammo
M1 Garand match loads, RL 15 and a 175 SMK

read some of the replies above you

no

Use just dawn or just wash and wax, otherwise the dawn binds with the car wax and creates slime. Whoever told you to mix them needs to be slapped.

i haven't used dry media before, but i cant imagine brass getting any cleaner than it does in 2 hours using wet tumbling.

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I use two squirts of Dawn and about a tablespoon or less of lemi-shine in a Frankford. I don't fill the tumber completely with water. Just up to the top ridge. Nothing is critical about it. Two hours should have nice brass. I do almost a quart of .45acp at a time. I don't pop the primers first though. I use a progressive and reload at least 200 rounds a week.

Don't know how you are getting those results. I've cleaned old funky brass and made them look like new. Skip the wax or whatever. Just Dawn and Lemi. I don't air dry either. I use a cheap food dehydrator. If you need to air dry, roll them around in a towel.

>quit making weapons related threads on the weapons related board
>you killed a perfectly good /ak/ thread just to talk about guns

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You are so dumb. Like really, really dumb. Fo real.

It has to be the wax, I won't be using it anymore. I've tumbled that nasty looking batch a few more times since last night for half an hour at a time, changing out the water for fresh water with lemi shine and dawn each time. The old water keeps coming out dark gray and the cases look better each time. Its slowly stripping it from them and the inside of the drum.

I got a good one for you guys. Need some help.

>just started reloading because .454 is prohibitively expensive
>start with 4 loads
>185gr with the max load of powder for a 240gr load; 32gr Accurate#9: taking the advice of a similar load, it's crimped at the ogive
>185gr with 15gr Accurate#9 to emulate .45 Colt for cheap
>300 gr with 25gr Accurate#9 for a standard .454 load
>a couple 185gr with 25gr Accurate#9 because I forgot I lost a couple 300gr bullets after I loaded the powder and figured it would just be like spicy .45 Colt

Took it to the range yesterday and had less than great results.

>185gr loads with 32gr powder had a lot of yellow powder in flakes (accurate#9 is spherical) left in the barrel, but no major problems besides significantly less recoil than expected
>300gr loads also had some unburnt powder, but had recoil I would expect. This one confuses me the most because it's 1:1 with real load data instead of the other "wing it" loads I made
>185gr with 15gr had the most unburnt powder despite having the least powder overall. I'm guessing due to the crimp being on the cannelure unlike the 32gr loads but I don't actually have any idea.

But here's the worst.

>185gr with 25gr powder also crimped at the cannelure
>load one like I did with everything else
>*click*
>*smoke*
>"oh fuck"
>it's ok, I know what to do
>count to 60 pointed downrange
>force case out, brown singed powder was stuck to the outside of the case making it hard to eject
>it's a squib, figure I fucked the charge
>knock the squib out
>a bunch of singed powder comes out with the bullet
>what the fuck

Help me before I blow myself up, senpai.

Are you using magnum pistol primers? Sounds like the charge is having a hard time igniting.

Finally a reloading thread. Are these OK to reload w notches at 11 o'clock? FAL bolt grabs them hard

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Those are fine.

That was my thought too.
Have great results w 14-15gr of #9 over 165-180gr 10mm, except it's the most expensive powder charges. And idk if I'd run it in an unsupported chamber gun

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Small rifle according to the load data

Why are you bothering to launch 185s out of a casull? My book doesn't even give data for anything lower than 225. Aa9 is a very slow burning magnum powder, on par with alliant 2400. It needs a Magnum primer and a heavy crimp wouldn't hurt either.

Vhitivouri gives a couple loads for 185, but n105 only has like 3 loads for the entire caliber. I figured Aa9 would be better to start.

yeah if you want to deal with lead laden dust. Wet tumbling is superior.

I run ground corn cob I buy for 3.00 a 15 lb bag labeled as animal litter. I ad quarter sized dab of liquid car polish. Tumble for 2-4 hrs and it comes out like new. All that shit sounds like a waste of money.

You're going to blow yourself up dude. You're extrapolating load data. Follow the fucking recipe in the book or don't do it at all. Accurate doesn't list 454 loads in #9 for bullets that light. If you want to fuck around, buy some Unique and have at it.

Fuck, I didn't ask the questions I was supposed to.

Magnum pistol primers or magnum small rifle primers? Also how do I know my crimp is good? Google is being entirely unhelpful.

Whatever the load data tells you to use. My book says small rifle magnum primers. You want a good roll crimp that closes the mouth by at least .005 inch.

Hey guys, loaded my first 223 last night but I'm seeing some variance in OAL outside of the sixteen thousands stated in my manual. Any idea as to why?

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Are you measuring from the tip or the ogive?

Measuring from the tip with calipers.

Buy an ogive bullet comparator. Most of that is probably inconsistent jacket shape at the tip.

Cool, thanks.

Hell yeah 7.7 bro

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I reload .223, I wouldn't worry about slight variations of OAL. I have mine to 2.260 inches as per LEE reloading handbook I got.

Some of my rounds are a little short, usually end up being around 2.25 randomly.

They shoot great out of my AR, I reload to have cheap pinking rounds though, 20gr of H335 behind a 62g FMJ... If you are shooting it in an AR they have fairly forgiving chambers, Just don't load some super hot rounds and you are good!

i use walnut with lyman turbo charger and it gets the brass factory ammo shiny

Awesome, good to know. Yeah, most of the variance is within a hundredth so it looks like I'm good.

Ever tried anything slower burning?

Nope. M1 garand powders are basically the same as ones you use for an AR for a reason- most guys stick with IMR 4895 and such for a reason. The op rod gets fucked if there is too much unburned powder at the gas port. I use AR Comp only because it is so fast and produces very little muzzle pressure.

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Yea man! Unless you are shooting for competition I don't think you will notice any form of LARGE group variances. Probably within 1-2 MOA and that is if you really jack up the OAL.

Care to explain how the hell the powder dispenser works? I have one but I haven't been able to figure it out so I've just been hand measuring every load of powder.

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>dry tumbling in 2018
Anyhow boyos, I've done thousands and thousands of rounds on a single stage, time to step it up. If I'm using a Hornady single stage with the lock and load bushings/dies, does it make the most sense to go to the Hornady LNL AP?

Anyone have a recommended common powder for rifles? I'm starting to reload
>6.5 Jap
>7.5 French
>.303 Brit
>.308
And I'm getting into other milsurp calibers. Is there any recommended powder that's reasonably common across those or am I going to be stuck with a bunch of different kinds of powder?

It is a general mistake to assume one powder will work through a wide variety of loadings. That being said, you might be able to get away with Win748 or IMR3031

You don't have the case activated linkage?

The what? I literally can't even figure out how to set it up. I got the Lee turret press starter kit and that's the only thing I couldn't figure out.

The one from your book that all 4 can use.
Don't take reload data from anywhere else.

Yes but rcbs is doing a 175 rebate on pro chucker 5 (530 on Amazon) so it's cheaper. You'll want to just get another set of dies and leave them in the die plate if you're using multiple calibers anyway.

Also if you look to do stuff for a Garand IMR 4895 will become necessary.

Idk what it is for Lee but this is what I have, basically the same for hornady. Watch some videos online
amazon.com/dp/B004XZGZFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_T.agCb8JXS3Y7

Anyone here ever try to load .40s&w that will be subsonic out of a 7.5" barrel? I haven't tried yet, but I'll be using 200 grain Berry's flat nose bullets and Hodgdon Titegroup powder. Idk if the heavier bullets will be enough to stay subsonic on a regular load, but according to Ballistics By The Inch it looks like most typical factory loads with 180 gr. bullets should be right around 1100 fps from a 7.5" barrel. May not really need to change anything, we shall see.

Thanks for keeping 180gr bullet prices down for 10mm but may a plague fall upon all 40sw owners

Well now that's not very nice at all

I doubt that will be difficult especially with 200 grain pills. 1100 is so close to subsonic that dropping a few tenths of a grain will probably get you there. If it's a straight blowback gun like an AR, they inherently operate like they're running lower pressure.

>when I accidentally pick up a 40 brass at the range

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I think Dillon presses are overrated
True or false?

i understand that safety should be followed and such and i like your attitude, but i would never have achieved such firebreathing rounds if i had stuck to the book.

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Load? What did you discover in your desire for big balls?

>armorall
what the fuck are you doing? drop of dawn, drop of carwash and wax soap, and a pinch of lemishine in hot water for an hour gets you super shiny brass...
If you want to dry tumble, use a little nufinish or cleaner wax to keep stuff from tarnishing.

300gr .50AE with 34.5gr of h110 was kinda above the book and wasnt enough. i couldnt find any data on bluedot but i knew it made fire so i added around 23.9gr and made some hot stuff.

What tumbler are you using? I had a weird issue with the harbor freight drums leaching the rubber goo into solution and it would turn my brass dark. If you use too much car wash soap it can cause slimy issues too. You just need a tiny amount to add lubricity to sizing cases, but it makes a pretty huge difference even with carbide dies.

power pistol doesn't have any flash suppressant either.... It kind of defeats the purpose of hot loads if most of your powder is burnt outside the barrel though.

have any recommendations on where to start? im loading for the desert beagle range toy, fireball is what i need. its always too loud.

my guess is start at 18gr and work up to no more than 19.

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the first was h110, this one is with the bluedot.

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might be the armorall
I do the same thing with just dish soap and lemishine and my brass looks great

you're suppose to dry tumble with armorall, not wet tumble with it and you definitely shouldn't be mixing it with lemishine

Don't reload but want to participate

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Are you Clark Magnuson?

For the uninitiated
groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.guns/FJZ_hBkX-Wc

Just add a 5 grain kicker charge of fffg black powder under the bullet.

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Madman

I got the Hornady TBL100 since it was on sale for $120. I quit putting the car wash solution in and every run I've done today gets a little cleaner

I'm pretty stoked that my last 6.5 CM load had a standard deviation of 3.3 fps over 50 rounds. ABSOLUTE UNIFORMITY WILL BE MINE

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7l Franklin Armory. I like it quite a bit.
Media is such a meme, just fuckin throw some hot water, bit of dawn, bit of degreaser, some lemon concentrate. Let it go for hour or 2. Size everything then clean it again to get the primer pockets and remove the spray on lube.

For 7.5 French, 303 and 308 you can use Varget. 6.5 Jap will require a quicker burning powder.

Is it rational to have such a deep-seated hatred of pic related? I always go a too far with it and only rarely get a case with a proper length.

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Does anyone have any idea of how much savings there are to be had on reloading .50AE?
My father in law has an insane reloading setup and I was thinking of reloading .50AE to see if it netted any price drop.

Get Lee piloted trimmers then. Never cut them short again.

Its half anyway. And 50 brass is easy to see in the dirt. Plus Deagles shoot brass right in your face so it falls right around you

>Plus Deagles shoot brass right in your face
truer words hath na'er been spake.
my fucking .50 will hit me square in the face at least a handful of times per outing.

For .308, Varget

Yup, wear glasses.

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or IMR4064

I've never shot a Deagle but my damn Glock 23 is a brass-to-the-face machine. I've got a lump with a scab on my forehead right now from yesterday where one caught me at full force. If they don't hit my head they fly right over and land 10-15 feet behind me.

Get an RMR

>For .308, Varget
I don't get it. None of those keys are remotely close to I M R 4 8 9 5. Helluva typo there, son.

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Not everyone is shooting M1 ball spec loads grandpa

41.5gr N140 loaded to magazine length is the best load I've ever found for .303. Cool burning and milspec velocity, but pressure is lower. For all those the first three: N140, N150, Varget, Reloader 15, IMR4895 (as fast as I like). I'm not familiar with the Accurate powders but some people like them.

>For 7.5 French, 303 and 308 you can use Varget. 6.5 Jap will require a quicker burning powder.
I highly doubt 6.5 Jap wants a quicker burning powder assuming you're loading anything above 120gr, the sectional density will favor slower powders even, I suspect, with the slighly reduced case volume. Varget is too fast for the heavier bullet in my opinion. If 139gr is being used I'd not use anything much faster than the N150/Reloader 17 range.