So I heard Smith & Wesson sucks cock now and is shitting our sub-par revolvers

Between my family and I, we have purchased at least 5 or 6 new production s&w revolvers. A model 29, 66, 686+, and a few J frames. Not a single one has had an issue. Theyve all been great guns. I'd say if you're worried about it, just give the gun a quick inspection before you buy it, as you always should. But like I said, that's quite a few in a row that have had no issues whatsoever, and been really great guns. If you buy one, you won't be disappointed.
I also think s&w definitely look and feel better than ruger revolvers. Yes ruger can take a beating, but you'll never beat the classic lines of a smith. A ruger is a Clydesdale, but a Smith is a good Morgan.

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>uses filter to obscure shitty finish

Well played user.

>>. It will never be a tuned Smith
that's what I meant. Yes, you can improve them but they're still not going to be on the level of a Smith, Colt, etc. Hell, my Taurus revolvers have better triggers than my Rugers do.

>Don't tell me a revolver in .45-70 doesn't make you feel funny.
I used to own one, I don't really see the point. .45-70 is designed for a rifle, so out of a revolver you get meh performance and a huge fireball. Pretty much any of the big magnum calibers like .454 Casull, .445 Supermag, .460S&W. .500 S&W, .475 Linebaugh, .500 linebaugh, etc, are more powerful and don't waste a fuckload of powder burning outside the barrel.

If you are starting to think that this guy has valid points, need i remind you that he's complaining that the j-frame is too small to shoot .38 special without exploding....

>shitty finish
Have you ever held a modern production smith, or do you just parrot memes?

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I want a levergat in 45-70

I bought a new 4in 586 last year, 1500 rounds later no issues. Buy one from a dealer you trust/like and have them inspect that particular gun.

Things that you can't change about a new SW: the bluing is different(fucking hippies) and the internal lock (which really shouldn't be that big of a concern).

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Compare that shitty lazy ass stainless to this pre-lock fuck slut. And yes I have handled nu-smiths. I have a 442 that's less than a year old. I don't buy guns with locks though.

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Its brushed stainless, they sell plenty of polished stainless still, I simply didn't want one, and liked the matte finish and specs of the 66, which is why i bought that one. Pic related is the same model as my family's but a stock pick of the 686+

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I'm not the guy you're replying to, but the difference in finish between the stainless versions is significant. The new ones aren't "bad", but they are not as good as the older ones.

I can't comment on the blued models since I don't own any blued Smiths.

Even their polished looks like shit. Can you not see the difference?

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>Dat Blueing Wear

IIRC all S&W revolvers are now drilled and tapped. This allows for muzzle blast to be redirected down on the cylinder, destroying blueing.

I must confess I find the 586, even with the hole, to be very tempting, but holy shit I don't want to fuck the finish up just by shooting it.

That pic was from a post where dude claimed hoppes #9 took the bluing off.

What you're talking about is how the front screw of the rear sight assembly goes through the frame and leaves a small gap that focuses gap blast onto the cylinder Blasting off a tiny spot in the bluing.

youtube.com/watch?v=31_Q1Jz-k8U&feature=youtu.be

They dun goofed.

Just buy an old model 13 and you're golden

He's complaining that the heat treatment was so godawful the cylinder was bulging after firing basic factory ammo through it.

Play it safe and get a S&W from 20-30 years ago.

Locks are fukken gay

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>Locks are fukken gay
agreed. a revolver would have to be crazy cheap for me to even consider one with a lock.

Remove the cuck lock and they're okay, just a few hundred dollars too expensive for what you get. Get an older pre-lock used one.

They're good cept' hillary holes. If you're worried get an older one, a ruger or a dan wesson if you like wesson

Ran across an interesting auction. It's a fucked up gun that I bet will sell for stupid money just because it looks like a python.

gunbroker.com/item/794233637

>It will never be a tuned Smith
as this thread reveals "a tuned Smith" means fuckall

how do you like the cheetah? they're so sexy

No it means a S&W action has a higher potential than a Ruger action with a comparable amount of work. I don't own a spinboi I haven't worked on. You just can't expect to buy a revolver with an action tuned to it's max potential from a mass market gun.

>that post
>these recurring digits
Confirmed

what a beautiful box as well, if I was shopping I would buy on the basis of that BASED design.

ruger or nothing brother

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They aren't bad, just not as good as they used to be, and consequentially overpriced. They have had some hilarious QC issues (performance center gun where the front sight comes out effortlessly,) and customer service issues (refusing to acknowledge canted barrels), and they are using mimed parts. They still make a good product, but it's not the quality their legacy would imply. They get away with charging so much because there's no competition at their price point. Ruger is cheaper and less refined, Taurus is shitty foreign Ruger, and charter arms is like Hi Point of revolvers, but that would be unfair to Hi Point's reliability. Magnum research is single action only, and Dan Wesson (who was bought by Kahr) makes only one revolver with the option of buying it with a longer and shorter barrel to make the stock barrel useless. Then your European quality revolvers are generally way more expensive.
Basically Smith gets away with it because there's no one quite on that level.

>Meh triggers, and there's not all that much that can be done to improve them.
It's piss easy to do a Ruger trigger job user

Ruger won't fix canted barrels either; I sent them a Redhawk with less than 100 rounds through it that developed a SERIOUS cant, and all they did was cant it worse and tell me not to ever try to shoot it. Also Ruger triggers have horrible stacking, worse than a Charter

>for the money SW makes the best revolvers on earth
????? You just happen to forget that Ruger exists?

Modern S&W has horrid quality control. The locks are a total joke, and a liability on lightweight guns especially.

Developed? Like it was straight when you bought it? What model, and what ammo were you shooting?

I've been considering doing a trigger job to my Redhawk, but what they want for tools would cost me more than paying to have it done. I wonder if I could use ultra fine emery cloth to polish the surfaces. Since it's mine I could do it very slowly, a bit at a time and constantly test it as I go.
I'm very hesitant to get a lighter spring as a (not super) Redhawk uses the same spring for the trigger as the hammer. I'm afraid to do anything that could even slightly increase the odds of a hang fire.

I literally just used the same mothers mag I used to polish the rest of the gun to polish the action. Also swapped the hammer spring and added some shims. Didn't touch the return spring though. Mine was an SP101 though. Don't know about the Redhawk.

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Most Redhawks use a single spring to power the hammer and trigger return. I've never handled any custom Redhawk that would hold a candle to an N-Frame Smith with regard to trigger work. IIRC the Soper redhawk uses two separate springs, but looks...well, awful. A stock Redhawk isn't a bad gun by any stretch though.

The GP-100 can be modded to have a trigger pull as good as any S&W L-frame.

The SP-101 just can't, however. The geometry issues remind me of J-frame Smith and Wessons, which suck to do trigger work on.

Ruger revolvers are essentially based on the original Single-Six design for the firing pin and bushing. Most Ruger revolvers have just enough firing pin protrusion to just get by, which is why Bowen sells extra-length firing pins for DA and SA Rugers. I have an older 1st gen Security Six that has just an awful DA pull, but I think I can correct it by altering the hammer where it impacts the frame to get a few more thou of protrusion, and then install my last Trapper spring kit.

>The geometry issues remind me of J-frame Smith and Wessons, which suck to do trigger work on.
Must be why my Model 49 has such a shitty trigger

BIG IRON

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I bought a Model 38 used and it has an amazing trigger, but few do. K-Frames and L-frames are amazing, though.

You don't need shit for tools faggot. this covers what u need for any ruger DA action job.

youtube.com/watch?v=z2IvhiMP_lI

That's an SP 101. Redhawk only has one spring

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It's the same fucking job though. Shims and polishing is 75% of slicking up the action. You could stick with the stock springs and see a huge improvement.

>Revolver

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Buy a used Model 10

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performance center is the only ones to fuck with, rugers are good but the triggers suck, And I've been waiting for my colt SAA for 2 years.

Of all the guns in the pic, its the one that's in my nightstand. It's the first and last gun I shoot on handgun range days. Got it for $350 all in, dollar for dollar best gun I've bought.

You have summoned the pasta. I hope you're hungry.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_&_Wesson_Model_10

thesurvivalistblog.net/smith-and-wesson-model-10-review/

youtube.com/watch?v=oZaxay1eXks

youtube.com/watch?v=CEHtRkyTe-0

youtube.com/watch?v=lGcr5JsYcW0

youtube.com/watch?v=jsqKeQhobOM

youtube.com/watch?v=WyuWY3NU3e8

gunbroker.com/Revolvers/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&mfg=1000259&mo=3001877&Condition=4

www.thesixgunjournal.net/a-revolver-buyers-checklist/

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Now that's

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