/rlg/ Reloading general

Alright Jow Forums, I made this thread solely to ask a couple questions if I can remember them:
-I use cast bullets in both my .30-30 and milsurp and I just found out that they make multiple moulds that say "gas check". However, I never use gas checks due to powder coating. I look at the mould however, and wonder if I need to use a gas check due to the base being a little smaller than the lands or does this not matter?

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amazon.com/NOBILWAX-BASEPLATE-PINK-THICK-POUNDS/dp/B00O3JM9NA/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1529382969&sr=8-18&keywords=Baseplate Wax
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Probably doesn't matter if you're fully powder coating. The check is just to protect the base from hot gases which the coating is doing anyway. If it's not leading the barrel, I wouldn't worry about it.

No, they work just fine at low velocities. There is less bearing surface for the bullet but they will work just fine. Ideally, you would use a gas check for higher velocities or switch to a bullet that has a base for the appropriate bore diameter.

The check is really important to make sure that the hot gasses don't blow through the base of the bullet.

The base is smaller than the lands because that's where the gas check goes.

Here's a little secret for you that I never see anyone mention....I use wax gas checks for my cast handgun bullets. Sheets of dental wax you press into the case mouth after charging and then you seat the bullet on top. Was having some problems with some supposedly "hard cast" bullets leading and ran across a mention of wax gas checks and tried it and it works. Probably a waste of time if you powder coat your bullets but I have no experience with that.

amazon.com/NOBILWAX-BASEPLATE-PINK-THICK-POUNDS/dp/B00O3JM9NA/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1529382969&sr=8-18&keywords=Baseplate Wax

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I picked up pic related (not the gun just the reloading stuff) at a thrift store yesterday for $30 CAD. Never reloaded before, did I do alright? is there a pastebin or a good resource to check out before I have to dive into the world of youtube n shit?

forgot pic

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You did very well. Personally I would keep one, sell the other and get a MEC for serious work. I have both. The Lee is nice because you can upgrade a unit with their conversion kits for about 20 bucks a gauge. I do 12, 16 and 20 with mine.

They work but aren't fancy. The MEC just works a lot smoother and has a lot more accessories for making nice crimps, adjusting shot and powder volume on the fly and other bits and pieces that make it more comfortable to use. I got a 650 Jr setup in 12 recently for $40 usd. It was sitting in a box at an antique mall with all kinds of goodies inside. It was very worth it.

For birdshot clay and general trap loads, I find that it is cheaper to buy bulk packs at Walmart for $21. That said, I do load cast buckshot and slugs and either kit can help with that. I use an overshot card and roll crimper for those though.

they don't really make a whole lot of .30 caliber bullet moulds that aren't gas check. I've never seen a bullet mould that is spitzer and flat base.

For casting, what's the velocity cutoff for where you need to start worrying about lead hardness? I do 9mm and 380 from range scrap and it'd be nice to try rifle rounds, but idk much about optimizing lead hardness.

Why not go for something like 45-70, then?

>home for christmas
>brought guns
>didn't bring press/reloading supplies
fuck store prices desu
How am I supposed to shoot .44 Mag on a college student budget like this

You're not gay buy $20 is $20?

just powder coat, then it doesn't matter.

I do powder coat, I thought that rounds like 223 still needed harder lead even when powder coated. Is that not the case?

1200+ ft/sec, at least for me. Supposedly that's where gas checks start to serve a purpose instead of being a waste of time and money, also.

Leading is as much caused by gas cutting on the sides of undersized lead bullets as it is by insufficient hardness, or lack of gas checks. Many revolvers have chamber throats on the small size of SAAMI specs because it improves velocity and doesn't affect accuracy much with jacketed bullets, but then the bullet comes out of the chamber and enters the forcing cone badly undersized, and leads badly regardless of hardness.

I would say shop online for ammo but it wouldn't be delivered in time. I don't know what to tell you.

>tfw it's time to reload straight-walled cartridges with trail boss

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Reloading newfag here, should I get the 50th Edition Lyman Manual or the 10th Edition Hornady for my first reloading manual? Are there any merits to one over the other?

Its good to have 2 books to compare. Some books don't have certain powders and others have really low max charges. Norma comes to mind.

I couldn't tell you honestly, I don't cast for .223. I cast .30 and push them to 3000fps with no problems so far.

I started casting, it's fun.

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I got Modern Reloading by Richard Lee

Just put 1k 9mm brass in the wet tumbler after de-prime and resizing.

124 Rainier RN over 4 grains of CFE Pistol tomorrow after they dry.

why do people reload modern milspec ammo for plinking?

i get precision 7.62/5.56 reloading, hunting reloading, etc.

But you can buy 9x19, 7.62 nato, 5.56 nato, etc for less than the cost of even the cheapest components. If you cast, you can probably break even. By that's assuming your time is worth nothing.

why?

For some people, the idea of experimenting is appealing--but that's not really for plinking, is it?

Can you get M2 Ball?

Mold was too cold. Hope the one you loaded filled out better.

>But you can buy 9x19, 7.62 nato, 5.56 nato, etc for less than the cost of even the cheapest components
Maybe for someone like you.
Using the rip off artists in my locale I can still save ~$60/1000 on something like 9mm.

yeah, that's why I specified for plinking.

if you're loading ammo just to go rip targets/steel, do drills, etc, just buy factory and sell your brass.

If you consider the opportunity cost of selling brass in your reloading equation, it makes reloading bulk stuff even more unappealing.

i reload pretty much exclusively for cartridges that would cost twice as much to buy as to reload, or for cartridges which I shoot long range and/or hunt with.

it's going in the next pot.
every time I cast I get fewer and fewer mistakes, it's kinda like cooking.

>modern milspec ammo

you can buy ammunition from the internet. often with free shipping on 1000+ round cases

you could probably sell your 9mm brass for $30/1000. what's your time worth?

If you factor time into a hobby you are a mouth breathing retard.
I can reload the 1000 rounds in under an hour of work.

it's fucking retarded to think that you can't be wasting your time just because you're engaged in your hobby.

reloading bulk ammunition is not very fun. maybe for a handful of people. But most would rather just shoot.

a full progressive Dillon 550 with case feeder can do about 600 rounds per hour. I'm interested in what you've invested in to make 1000. Especially for a couple of dollars an hour of net gain.

>reloading bulk ammunition is not very fun
maybe reloading is't the hobby for you

It comes to $65/hour savings over buying bulk for me. If I use cast its well over $100. I'm not even the most frugal on this board. Some folks were getting as low as 4ยข/rd.
I use an ammomaster, case feeder not needed if you have rhythm and know what you are doing.

For some people shooting is the hobby, reloading is incidental, something they do because 16 Gauge or 7x63 Sharpe & Hart isn't on the shelves at Wal-Mart.

And if I can make enough money working an hour at my day job to buy more ammo than I can reload in an hour sitting at home with my single-stage press...

Maybe the guy you're talking is that handful of people you mention that enjoys reloading in bulk.

reloading bulk ammunition isn't fun. its monotonous. you're slamming the same shit together over and over to save literal pennies. If I was bulk reloading expensive stuff, like 10mm, or 357, or 44 or something, it would be worth it. But not milspec stuff

I reload over 30 calibres. Many obsolete and not in production like 6mm Lee Navy, 577-450 MH, 9mm Steyr, 8mm Nambu, 8mm Steyr, 7.65 Roth-Sauer, 7.65 Luger, 38 ACP, 25/30/35 Remington, 280 Ross, 8x56 Kropatschek, 8x56 mannlicher, 7x57, 30 mauser, 12ga 2-1/2", 16ga 2-1/2", and some others.

I load in *relatively* high volume for 44 mag, 32 ACP, 30 carbine, 10mm auto, and some others on my progressive press.

I also 6.5 for precision, and 7mm STW for hunting.

I enjoy loading to actually save money. I enjoy loading to make ammunition for my rifles for which ammunition quite literally does not exist. I enjoy loading for precision. I enjoy loading to use my favourite hunting projectiles.

I do not enjoy loading bulk crap just so I can break even because it's just "part of my hobby".

I would love to see you cite the cost breakdown on this. Even with as high a quoted number as 1000 rounds per hour, which is out of the average claimed rate of Dillon 550s and 650s with casefeeders. Fully automated presses run slightly over 1000 rounds per hour when perfectly tuned and you're telling me you're running 1000 per hour on a manual progressive with no case feeder, fucking lol.

Show me the breakdown of factory components vs factory ammo on sale.

I see...

Pound of powder @ $35, 1000 primers at $40, 1000 bullets at $95.
Cheapest I can currently get 9mm is $249 per thousand. Comes to a savings of ~$100.
Like I had said the rhythm is key. Your workspace has to flow for production, the RCBS is much better than Honady or Dillon for this.. 1000rph is less than 20 bullets a minute. Casefeeders are not actually any faster, they are for automated lines and people who like the bells and whistles.

okay, so 17 cpr reloaded. Where do you live? From the cost of components, it sounds like the USA (powder in Canada is $55+ /lb)

from a brief search, blazer brass is $160-$170 USD / 1000

then you just sell your brass for 3 cpr and make back $30.

you're losing money man

I'm Canadian. Have never seen ANY pistol powder as high as $55.
The prices I quoted are my highs. As said earlier I can go much cheaper if I wanted to spend the time.

factory 9mm is 5 inches at 25 yards, my handloads are 2 inches.

From which firearm, and what load are you using to get that result?

It isn't the old Ken Waters 9mm match load, is it? 125gr cast lead roundnose sized at .356" over 4.1gr Red Dot, with Federal small pistol match primers?

no, browning hi power, 130gr .359 cast lead, Win 231 but I can't remember how much. Trying for about 900-1000fps.

I suppose only temp insensitive rifle powders go for $50+. I haven't really bought anything other than retumbo, varget, or H4350 in quite awhile.

17 cpr reloaded. you can buy for 25 cpr and sell brass for cpr. you save 3 cpr. $30 saved per 1000.

99% of people can't do 1000 rounds per hour. and I still think you're full of shit.

>time is worth something
>spends time on Jow Forums
One in every thread

really fucking doubt factory is loaded 12 MOA worse than your reloads. The margin between factory and event the best reloads is at most 5 MOA.

>mfw I reload 9mm for 6cpr
>mfw financially I don't need to ever fucking worry about cost of ammo, but still enjoy reloading and saving

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>spends 5 hours on brass prep, casting, powdercoating/GC, loading, to make 1k rounds
>saves $80
>$16/hr
>weekend was spent reloading, didn't have time to go to the range
>oh well, maybe next weekend

>make around $40 an hour
>enjoy casting, pcing, reloading more than shooting
>don't give a fuck about hourly cost of any hobbies because I'm not poor
I fail to see the problem user. Do you calculate the cost of your anime watching time?

>>$16/hr

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>enjoy casting, pcing, reloading more than shooting

i don't know anyone for which this is true

what the fuck, who the fuck are you

>don't give a fuck about hourly cost of any hobbies because I'm not poor

this should be the opposite. if you're not poor your most valuable resource is your time. i guess if you enjoy all the monotony of reloading bulk ammo, good on you.

I make 100k/yr at work. I do CNC in my spare time and can make $100+ hr making parts. it just doesn't make sense to sit around doing something I don't enjoy for at most $16/hr.

Post calipers

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k

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>people enjoy things I don't?
I bust my ass at work, if I came home with a dollar hourly mindset and applied it to my hobbies, I'd an hero. I'll be at the 100k mark within the next few years, I'm not worried.
>it just doesn't make sense to sit around doing something I don't enjoy for at most $16/hr.
Has the irony of you posting here for $0/hr hit you yet?

it's really convenient for your argument to ignore the distinction between work you enjoy and do not enjoy.

i apply an hourly dollar number to things i do not like doing. if it's too low of a rate relative to what I could otherwise be making, I pay the money to have it done for me.

if I enjoy the thing I'm doing. I don't consider hourly rate or cost or anything.

we're not even in the same frame of reference here because you enjoy loading bulk ammo. most people I would argue do not.

>when the press bolt is juuuust a bit too short and the hardware store is closed

Baste

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You did very well, each of those presses cost around $80 syrup bucks new. Might be more now, I got mine a few years ago.
Look at some videos of shotshell reloading, but also grab a couple loading manuals, they're worth their weight in gold and you don't have to sift through internet fuddlore to get load data. PDF's are floating around, but I find it's nice to have the actual books as well.
Start saving hulls. Remington Gun Club, Rem STS and some of the Winchester AA "equivalents" are good for reloading. Federal Top Gun works too, but you have to keep an eye on the base wads, being fibre they separate after a few reloadings.
Fuck I need to go to Thrift stores more often.
Emphasis on the loading manuals. Both those are older models of Load-All so some of the data on those sheets might be hard to put together these days with hulls, wads and powders etc. being discontinued/renamed or just a bitch to find since Fudds have been hoarding them for decades.
>Ain't gettin nun ma Winshester Double Ay's boy. I dun use em for ma pumpkin balls rounds.

Who else is going to do some Christmas reloading? I'm going to keep going on .303 until I use up all the powder I have on hand.

How's that Lyman dispenser working? I had a Hornady but it never really was reliable.

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i got it for $100 and it's been fantastic. I've shot out to a mile in 6.5CM using charges it's thrown. 4-6 FPS measured SDs.

I bought the speed upgrade kit and it started throwing charges considerably less precise. If you can find a DPS II or DPS III second hand I'd go for it.

Is thr process of cutting down 30.06 to make 7.7jap difficult? I love my type 99 but man feeding her is starting to become fucking expensive.

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>tfw mention reloading to my mom and she says that my grandma has a bunch of reloading stuff that my grandpa left behind when he passed away and she'll probably sell it to me

I miss my grandpa so god damned much. I wish I could have spent more time with that based ass motherfucker.

Thank you Santa

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Nice senpai

Is there any difference in price with reloading if you have to buy the brass too vs. buying bullets?

This.

Trail Boss is the Boss


This is now a trail boss thread

If you use Hornady bullets get the 10 Ed book.
Same if you use Sierra, Speer, Swift, Cutting Edge etc

Otherwise Lee and Lyman are compilation books

>smokeless

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Be careful with lead bullets. M1 Garands have octagonal barrels and can explode if you use lead as it fouls and creates too much pressure.

This can happen even if you're using M2 spec 30-06 loads.

No fudds cornered the market by buying up all the ammo . Corrosive milspec surplus is more expensive than brand new factory ammo thanks to (((them))).

I make about 900 rounds an hour with my setup. I use both arms and foot pedals to speed up the process. All in all it costs me about 63 cents (on average) per round when I make them. I reload .50, .40, 9x18, and 30-06. When I purchase equal amounts of ammo, I save .03 per round, on average across all my ammo. I don't separate the cost savings per type as that seems to be pointless.

That comes out to about $300 in savings per hour, on average. To go off what that other guy says, I make $14 an hour. I've basically got an infinite money machine.

One of the guys I met at the range keeps trying to get me to sell him some .50 but I need it for my Bushmaster. if money starts to get tight around new years I'll go ahead and do it.

>One of the guys I met at the range keeps trying to get me to sell him some .50
ATF bait

Where to get cheap reloading gear if you're just trying to get into the hobby? Garage and estate sales all seem to "know what they got".

Craigslist occasionally has reloading gear listed under "Sporting Goods." The ads get flagged and taken down a lot because a set of dies to reload .43 Spanish and a half-used can of forty-year-old Unique is "muh weapons of mass destruction." This on the same website whose personal ads were full of ads selling drugs, ads from prostitutes, and ads from creepy massage parlors full of Third World women who no speakee English. That's all fine, but reloading boolits is bad because guns. Or something.

Anyway. It's worth looking around.

After looking into it more, Hornady stuff seems a little pricey to be exclusively getting started out with, desu. Looks like I'm going to spring for a copy of both the Lee and Lyman books. Thanks!

I use Green Dot, it's what I can get.

You don't really save any money after including time and ancillary equipment. However if you shoot weird calibers or high precision then its usually your only option.

but .43 Spanish is a weapon of mass destruction (of your wallet)

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