/revolver general/

/revolver general/

Time to post up your big irons lads. I am wondering if anyone has one of these traditions single action army clones? It's the cheapest .44 mag SAA I can find, and it looks pretty. Think it'll be shit or no?

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Other urls found in this thread:

traditionsfirearms.com/product/1873-single-action-revolver-44-mag-5.5-inch-barrel-color-case-hardened-sat73-801
gunbroker.com/item/790426076
gunbroker.com/Revolvers/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&mfg=1000240&ca=5000128&Condition=4
youtube.com/watch?v=sdpSniIB3T8
amazon.com/Wesson-Leather-Waistband-Concealed-Holster/dp/B07B4PCCV2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1545754594&sr=8-4&keywords=iwb 3" j frame holster
gunsmidwest.com/blackhawk-357mag-6-1-2-ss.html
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_&_Wesson_Model_10
thesurvivalistblog.net/smith-and-wesson-model-10-review/
youtube.com/watch?v=lGcr5JsYcW0
youtube.com/watch?v=jsqKeQhobOM
youtube.com/watch?v=WyuWY3NU3e8
gunbroker.com/Revolvers/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&mfg=1000259&mo=3001877&Condition=4
taylorsfirearms.com/hand-guns/cartridge-revolvers/1873-single-action-revolver-series/cattleman-old-model-frame.html?___SID=U)
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Whoops I'm retarded forgot the link

traditionsfirearms.com/product/1873-single-action-revolver-44-mag-5.5-inch-barrel-color-case-hardened-sat73-801

I wouldn't get the "cheapest" of anything, I'd get a Ruger Vaquero in .44 mag

A vaquero is less saa than this though.

What about functionally being an SAA while being built better. Old model (unconverted) blackhawks have the colt action except for a frame mounted firing pin.
gunbroker.com/item/790426076
$649 buy now, do it so I don’t have to.

The only cheap brand new revolver you should get is a RIA M200.

Have you actually seen one of those? It looks like it came from a potato factory whre they only hire retards.

Everything armscor makes is a disappoint. I already have a few nicer wheelgats, I just want a cheaper beater .44.

I'm not knocking the Ruger, they're stout as shit, I just want a saa clone in .44 and the rugers aren't really a saa.

Traditions are made by pietta but they still have a transfer bar safety which is the big gay. Also being in 44 mag is not very SAA, either.
The super blackhawk will give you real SAA feels (load 1, skip 1, load 4. 4 clicks spells c-o-l-t. read in hickock45’s voice) while shooting hot magnum loads all day and outliving you. You could still buy another shitty SAA clone for cowboy larp i guess.

Just picked this up, $580 at my local pawn shop.

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Nice, .44?

yep. made in '82 according to the serial, and it's in great shape

Merry Christmas lads, be safe

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>cheaper beater .44.

Used Blackhawk.

gunbroker.com/Revolvers/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&mfg=1000240&ca=5000128&Condition=4

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Damn how many revolver threads are gonna go up today? Already posted this but what the fuck it's revolver bread day I guess.

Bobbed the hammer on my Fitz special project today. Waiting on the jig to do the ball detent in the yoke to fix the lockup and then imma chop the front of the trigger guard.

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Howd you manage to snap a picture before the bullet got out of the barrel? are you a wizard

>ball detent in the yoke


youtube.com/watch?v=sdpSniIB3T8

I love my gun

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Fuck I want one but can't decide between blued or stainless

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Get stainless and then rattle can half the gun with black grill paint.

Have you ever heard of high speed photography retard?

its a squib

Any one know a good, hidden hammer revolver for home defense? I was looking for something in 9mm or 40 S&W, but will .38 Spc or .357 be good rounds that won't go through walls?

get a webley in 45 acp

you can always have a gunsmith shave the hammer by the way

Thinking about getting a 4 inch 686 in 357. I shot a Ruger sp101 and didn’t care for the 2.25 inch barrel I assume the 3 inch barrel is much better.

Any pistol caliber larger than 22short will rape drywall easily.

You won't regret it. Look around and pre-lock police trade-in guns can be had for under $600.

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What’s this lock thing I keep hearing about? Why is it bad?

smol iron

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It's not bad, I own several modern S&W with locks, MIM parts, etc and they shoot the same as vintage guns. The guns without locks are seen as more desirable and usually command a premium; in my experience the vintage guns have a better fit an finish than modern but there's always caveat. I'd recommend looking at pawnshops in your area , you may be surprised at what you find.

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That's a nice piece. I've got an 60's era airweight bodyguard that I pick up the first of the year, going to be my new carry gun.

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Nice I saw you post about it in another thread. Mine was made in the 90s and is the all steel version. You'll love carrying it, super easy. Also you get gun hipster points for carrying it.

Can anybody give me one reason not to buy an EAA Bounty Hunter in .357 mag for a woods gun to back up my rifle? It'll see about a box or two of ammo a month, btw.

Holy shit. Is there more vintage wheelgun gang here?

Same user, but heres another vintage wheelgun. A model 15-3 circa 60s-70s. Been drinking so i forget exactly when. Picked it up at a pawn shop and was the only revolver they had without timing issues. The seller was butthurt I picked the only good one out of the lineup lmao

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>not getting shot when you drop your gun is gay...
Have you considered a career in LE?
FBI or ATF?
I think your just the type they’re looking for!

This is the S&W 13 I saved.
It locked up tight and was mechanically sound but at one point surface rusted pretty bad and was subsequently spray painted.

This pic was after soaking and scrubbing in acetone.
I’ve since had it cerakoted.

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Did you not see my 1942 pre-victory chop job that I'm turning into a Fitz Special? It's like vintage+vintage bubba with a side of vintage hipster current year faggotry.

Here's my unmolested 1948 M&P.

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Fuck you should have left it as is and put some bitching antler grips on it. You dun goofed.

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I'm thinking of buying a revolver as my first CC weapon. I was thinking of S&W Model 60 3" or a Ruger SP101 3". Are these good options? Also, can you recommend me some good IWB holsters?

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You're gonna be trying holsters until you find what works for you. Start with some low cost basic bitch IWB with a clip. Don't buy some $100 for your first holster. Get a taste of what it's like and see what problems(if any) you're having and then you'll know better what features you're looking for.

Something like this:
amazon.com/Wesson-Leather-Waistband-Concealed-Holster/dp/B07B4PCCV2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1545754594&sr=8-4&keywords=iwb 3" j frame holster

Get a 10.5 inch .44 super blackhawk for $650

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My dad's old wheel gat which he gave to me for Christmas
Its a S&W 66-2

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My 29 classic 44 mag and 17-8 10 shot .22 revolvers. Still hoping to add a matching .357 mag some day

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What? Dropping your gun is gay. You don’t load a cartridge under the hammer, you brainlet.

That better be a new production model 36 classic.


If it isnt quite honestly I'm disappointed in you.

Drywall is weak as fuck, if your that worried you need to get frangible bullets propelled fast.

Get a .357 with liberty civil defense ammo or CORBON birdshot projectiles (Glaser safety slugs, etc)


Since you asked such a newfag question you ought to get a HEAVY gun to help you counter recoil, if you get a 12 oz .357 pocket rocket your groups will eat shit until you fire several thousand rounds.

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I’ve been bitten by the magnum bug. I love this .357. I can’t decide if I want a lever action to go with it or a .44 mag next.

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Dope wood grips. Usually they have a real light grain. I want that but in stainless

.44 if you reload, lever boi if you don't

Get a .460 sw

Big iron and smol iron

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Newfag here

I’m trying to decide between a gp100 and 686. Everyone says the gp100 won’t have as many issues (forcing cone damage, going out of time, frame stretch, internals breaking, etc) but I thought the L frame was used on .44 magnum whereas GP100s only come in .44 special, so isn’t the 686 stronger?

This will be a weekly .357 125g shooter

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Miss my little 4.25" dude

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norevolvers here, down the line I want to get a gp100 stainless 4incher. Anyone have experience with one of those? They seem like they’d last a lifetime, and do all I’d want it to do besides concealed carry. Is saving for a 7 shot worth it, or is a used 6 shot ok? How does it compare to similar revolvers? Do I need to spend ~700 on a revolver?

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It's a 1942 "pre Victory" 38S&W that went to WWII, came home, got chopped to 2", new front sight added, cylinder reamed to accept 38spl, most of the British proofmarks buffed off and reblued.

gunsmidwest.com/blackhawk-357mag-6-1-2-ss.html

Is this a Blackhawk built on the .44 frame?

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_&_Wesson_Model_10

thesurvivalistblog.net/smith-and-wesson-model-10-review/

youtube.com/watch?v=lGcr5JsYcW0

youtube.com/watch?v=jsqKeQhobOM

youtube.com/watch?v=WyuWY3NU3e8

gunbroker.com/Revolvers/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&mfg=1000259&mo=3001877&Condition=4

www.thesixgunjournal.net/a-revolver-buyers-checklist/

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I can shoot .38 special out of a gp100 but i can’t shoot .357 out of this. Buying gp100 first would save me $200 bucks

I know a GP100 might be more practical for most people but you really have no idea how choice a K frame 38 feels and shoots if you've never experienced one. Throw in the fact that you can get one in good shape for like $300 and it's almost criminal not to have one.

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What's a good smol iron for conceal carry?

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Where are you at? I have one for sale locally.

The lock is only bad if you want to use the gun for self defense. There are reports all over of the lock engaging automatically and accidentally when you shoot the gun (not that it happens super often, but people look down on guns for self defense for much less than the gun possibly randomly locking up). If it’s just a range toy throw the key in your bag when you go and no problem, but it’s not for trusting your life to.

Went with smol and smol

Have no idea why anyone would want a 9-round .22 alloy snubby, but here we are

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They know this, which is why the only models they offer without the lock are ones made for carry

That's the one I have. DO IT.
It's a masterpiece. What's the price?

So I want to get a Single Action Army (been specifically looking at taylorsfirearms.com/hand-guns/cartridge-revolvers/1873-single-action-revolver-series/cattleman-old-model-frame.html?___SID=U)
I know Ruger overbuilds their firearms to hell and back, but I assume I'm not gonna be breaking the gun linked anytime soon even if I shot regular magnum rounds through it (though I'm going to shoot mostly 38 special since its cheap)? (I'm planning on getting the .357 version because 45 LC is just too expensive for me in the long run)

Hey anons. I pocket edc a Model 49. Just wondering what standard procedure is for cleaning it out if it gets soaked if I get caught in the rain. Thanks in advance.

Just wipe it down, keep it somewhere a bit warm, and oil it up.

Thanks user

No they didn't start taking out the lock on j frames until the LCR hit the market and they had some actual competition. If Ruger or someone else made more aesthetic guns that could really compete with Smith the locks would go away completely.

I'd take it apart and pack the internals in grease if I thought there was a regular chance of getting the gun wet.

I’ve got an Uberti-marked cattleman in .357 that’s been a pleasure to shoot so far. The magnum is satisfyingly “big iron” feeling, while .38 is loads of fun for just goofing off and pretending to be your favorite western character. The Uberti/Taylor guns seem to have fairly tight cylinder chambers and I’ve been having 357 casings get hung up on fouling while trying to eject after only a few rounds through them. 38 works just fine, though I save it for the end of the range trip to avoid further fouling the chambers for .357

If your 357s are sticking but your 38s or not it's probably because you have built up a carbon ring inside the cylinder from shooting a lot of 38s. The 357s are longer so they bind on the carbon ring. Clean your shit better faggot.

1. Clean you shit better.
2. Dont be a cheapshit and shoot 38s.

Nah it’s been doing that since before I ever started shooting .38 out of it, and I’ve scoured each chamber after every trip to try to get rid of any fouling. Plus it’s only one or two chambers that have a tendency to get stuck, not sure what it is.

pick up that ultrastar my nigger,
you won't regret

Can I shoot 125gr 357 regularly and occasionally buffalo bore safely through a new 686?

Fudds tell me it’ll shake itself to death, especially when I tell them how I’ve worn out a RIA 1911 and glock 22 by excessive shooting

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If you wear it out then you got your money's worth. No gun lasts forever. Live without fear you enormous faggot.

Couldn’t he just send it to s&w if it’s new?

It won't be new if he shot it so much it can't be repaired short of a major part replacement like a frame or barrel. I doubt the S&W warranty covers I PUT 100K ROUNDS THROUGH IT.

I need adjustable sights for my field guns. Hate trying to remember different holds for different loads.

But I know one guy busted a gp100 within 25k rounds on here with 158gr 357, so I’m afraid what’ll happen to the smith with hot 125gr

Then don't ever do anything because something you don't like might happen. You should just stay in the basement and shitpost.

That was me. Hot 125s will rip a forcing cone a bew asshole. If you want to shoot hot ass 125s get a contender. No forcing cone, no cylinder gap.

Also dont let my figures worry you.
25k rounds is still about $11k in ammo. I got my money's worth.

is that a brazilian 1917?

Do you think a 686 would fare as well as a gp100?

I’m still buying one, just want to know what I’m getting into.

I don't see why not. But hot 125s are hard on forcing cones. I would keep those to a minimum.

Peruvian K frame I believe,

if you're shooting 30-50k rounds of ammo to wear out a revolver, it doesn't matter whether or not you get a smith or ruger. the cost of the revolver will be a 1/16th at a minimum of the ammo you put into it. In that case, consider getting a manhurin mr73, or stop larping and just buy a smith 686 and enjoy it.

fwiw I handload ultra hot 125 grain .357 jhp and shoot them through my 686 all day long.

NY FAG, but I don’t have my pistol lisence yet :(

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this

So I’m going out to handle a gp100 and 686 tomorrow. I’ve only shot a 686 twice and liked it but idk if it was a pre or post lock

Either way, what’s the difference besides recoil in shooting .38s over .357s? Will they be less accurate? If so, by how much?

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