What part is this?
I found the picture searching for how to take my gun apart to clean it.
I took my gun apart and I don't have the big light colored zig-zag part. What should I do? It works OK now, so do I need it? Should I call the company that made mine and ask why my gun doesn't have it?
I suppose I could make one. I'm pretty handy with duct tape and stuff.
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I lose mine all the time. They are expensive to buy by themselves. That is how they make money off of bugit ARs. It is cheaper to make your own.
You have to make your own, its a trigger hack, it makes your trigger infinitely better so much better the government tries to ban it. It literally make even budget guns awesome, you wont regret it.
that's a tool for performing abortions at home.
some people hide them in there ARs because they don't want to get caught by the Health Dept.
That's a jugymadoodle op! It jugys doggos!
I have tons of scrap metal kicking around, I should try it. My trigger is awful. Feels like if you're chewing gum with sand in it. Crunchy...
I have lots of steel in different widths and thicknesses. Scrap steel round stock, too. Everything from about as thick as a finger, down to coat hanger size stuff.
It looks like flat bar stock would be better, though. Or even pallet banding! That's springy, right!? I have a whole bunch of that stuff out in the scrap pile.
What width banding should I use, do you think? Will it smooth out my crunchy trigger some?
I hate my trigger.
Some sheet aluminum would be pretty easy to bend into that shape. Just do some reading about k-factor before you start bending, though.
Enjoy, fags.
Oh, I thought it had to be springy. I guess aluminum would work.
How do I know what size to make it? Would the company have a drawing with sizes on their website?
>No thickness included
Without it, you can't calculate the bends properly.
>hurr durr no thickness
>making the squiggly shape is impossible!
Take your best guess.
Wow, thanks! I hope this fixes my trigger, cuz it sucks!
I just wasted an entire afternoon trying to reverse engineer this. Got real close but not quite. Thanks for sharing this.
I'm in fucking tears
That was good....
My high school drafting teacher would have smacked me if I turned this shitty drawing in.
Is there more that accompanies this?
scale it from the drawing
looks like about 0.11
Whose gunna make us some keychains?
You mean bottle openers*
It's super fun to make and easy, too. All you guys are invited to my house to make and try those little gizmo's out. My address is: 1781 Double Ee Ranch Rd, Waco, TX 76705-5006. Just let the US postal guy know you're coming up beforehand.
>add cut in middle for bottle opener
>hand out for free
Do this but engrave "FUCK THE BATFE" on them.
Alright, so this is a little more difficult than anticipated, but still easy. I was able to get a successful mock up made of aluminum. The 0.9" in drawing is a little too big. The bolt had a hard time traveling back past it. 0.85" seems to be the magic number here. Also the width i chose to make this was 0.375"
A regular break isnt the tool for making this. There isnt a bend order that wont fuck up other bends in the process. A finger break press seems ideal, but im not spending $200 to make bottle openers, so ill figure something out and report back.
I'm thinking of taking a piece of scrap lumber and drilling holes at all the bend points, then sliding steel dowels into place as I go. So place one dowel, hammer piece until bend matches what is sketched on board, place another dowel, repeat.
I too have had issues with the bolt getting stuck open. This is the main issue that convinced me to abandon the coat hanger method. I think the key is going to be polishing the elbow up nice and smooth to avoid the carrier getting snagged on it.
Theoretically in mine craft you don't need the hook on the end.
What about a piece of flat bar as the form to bend around and using one or two c-clamps?
Put flat bar on top of our bottle opener, clamp each side of flat bar to work table. Bend. Undo clamps, move to next area to be bent, clamp, repeat.
I wish i could show it in a video. The aluminum mock up is so close its not even funny. The only part of the bcg that needs to make contact with the bottle opener is the leading half inch of the back (pic related) it shouldnt make contact with any other part of the bcg.
The issue i had with hammering is the radius is much larger than bending. I had to hammer my 130 degree. This is the one that was messing up my other bends with the break. It screwed up the over all height. If you take that into consideration with your method it should work though.
What material are you using? I chose .060 steel for my final
Oh...heres pic related
That's what I thought. Thanks user.
I think I'll be putting together a .pdf (or similar) of all relevant information (Paraphrased to assist in removing anything even remotely identifiable).
Really makes me wonder why this design wasn't discovered much earlier. It's dead simple and there's even a video of one being made with a coat hanger. Weird stuff.
I'll make a detailed drawing and descrobe my manufacturing process once i get it down. Might make 50 or so and send out some free gifts to our toolette Jow Forumsommandos who want to get those beers open.
these are so crazy easy to do. I never did it but saw it done some guy at the range had one when I first got into guns. it takes a few minuets you use line men plyers and start from the part that goes under and behind the rear lug.
It took a lot of trial and error to get the height and angle correct. I mean it's an easy concept and a crude design can work, but im trying to get good measurements and detailed instructions on making a good quality piece.
It sure would be a shame if people just started making bottle openers en masse as a backup to the inevitable attempt to ban ar15s.
Boy howdie, it would sure make the batfe's job harder if people decided "well, if my basic rifle is already illegal, may as well make it TURBO ILLEGAL™
So many troubles could happen. So very many.
You using high or low shelf lower?
My poverty pony to test, pretty sure it's low shelf. Never paid any attention tbqh
So does it have to touch that? And why? In the video i saw i didnt seem the hanger went above the lower receiver
ITT: ATF
How could you possibly find that image just looking how to take your gun apart?
AR15s don't have to be illegal to stop the proliferation of things like drop in auto sears. They just have to ban specific bolt carriers. Pic related, FA-proof BCG.
>bolt carriers with shelves and lowers with deep enough cuts suddenly become third pin hole tier
>FA-proof
Can you seriously not envision yet another disconnect tripper, this time activated by the buffer itself in an open-ended carrier setup?
>Normal
Who fucking sells these? Every bcg maker I see online sells 'full auto' spec alone.
Is colt just cuck tier ala-Bill Ruger era Ruger?
It does. That part of the bcg needs to put enough pressure on the bottle opener to disengage the disconnecter.
Extremely no-guns armchair gunsmith post
we'll just design something new, m80.
Or you could simply clamp/bolt/screw on the additional surface to your bolt carrier
>no loop
woah laddie, dont post a picture of my wife agian
Whoa, buck-o, your wife was drawn and constructed by another man in reality and canon. This makes you a homosexual
waoh fren, what if his penis is feminine ?
Just make sure your balls don't touch
The reason M-16 "Full Auto" bolt carriers are referred to as such, is because the back of the bolt carrier is designed to trip the auto sear of the original M-16 when it goes into battery.
Whether you've got an M-16 DIAS, original select-fire parts kit, or Swift Link, the timing of the controlled fully automatic operation is tied to the back of the bolt carrier hitting the sear when the bolt closes or "goes into battery". This way, when you're holding the trigger down in full auto, the bolt only trips the sear mechanism and allows the gun to attempt to fire a round when the bolt is safely closed, and the hammer has enough space to build up momentum and hit the firing pin, setting off the primer.
>Is colt just cuck tier ala-Bill Ruger era Ruger?
See pic related. All this shit just to block M-16 DIASs, which were ironically designed to fit in the narrowed trigger pocket around the selector hole that blocks the original m-16 sear from fitting.
I role play with your wife being my filthy whore. Then jack-the-FUCK-off.
You jack a penis off ? Thats gay
Your wife is gay for making my penis hard.
Couldnt you just machine out that extra aluminum on a colt lower?
What're are you going to tell the machinist, that you need the aluminum gone for your ultralight weight build?
Just use a jig for milling 80% lowers
Reminder
All legal authority to enforce laws is derived from the constitution. Any legal entity that's power does not come from that document HAS no authority. Any acts that contradict the constitution are void by nature.
Compliance is unpatriotic.
Compliance is amoral.
>Any acts that contradict the constitution are void by nature
They amended that bitch ten times before anyone would agree to ratify it! lel
And it's still true, yurocuck, go tell people how no one needs salt-weapons down at your government sponsored mosque.
Treating a legal document as a moral framework is actually antithetical to what the founding fathers intended, that's why the ninth amendment exists
>"""milling""" on a drill press
ISHYGDDT
lmao looks like my girlfriend
Milled several before the depth guage collar broke. Still works as a drill press. Freehanded all of them.
>depth guage [sic] collar broke
That's what happens when you treat a $500 piece of equipment like an $8,000 machine
>machining looks like it was done by a drunk baboon with a dull brick
>calibers and blueprints
Nice touch
It was when my friend with the least amount of mechanical skill was doing his. He also broke an end mill bit that day, which was a first. I could definitely keep it going but they don't make that part anymore for a craftsman drill from the 70s.
I found it pretty easy to freehand by cutting the shape out in paper and tracing it with a sharpie, then start very shallow and mark the whole area just a cunthair deep. Then go at it in a clockwise pattern. There are 2 final depths, one is already set by the rear lug pocket, the other is 1.25".
underrated.
Fucking hilarious!
Zero issues with the guns. Success IMO.
I'm not sure what you guys are trying to say, but the bolt carrier doesn't need to ride completely over the top of the link and force it down underneath like an airplane skimming over the top of a mountain. It would be difficult to make a link by hand with dimensions accurate enough to work like that. You can just crudely form the link such that it goes up into the cavity of the BCG, and when the carrier comes forward the exact same surface that would contact a full auto sear contacts the incline of the link and shoves it down onto the disconnector. That way the exact location of the top bend doesn't really matter. I think anyway.
If it works, it works. Good job user.
pls update with good schematics when you get it working user
This is why I love ARs. Fuck it, just remove material until it works.
fuck off atf nigger
>>reddit.com
no one cares
Thats how my initial attempt worked, but the bolt carrier would hang up and I actually had to remove the buffer tube to get everything unlocked once. This is why I thought trying to lower the "mountaintop" a bit so the plane flies just over it would be better.
BOKER
(Bottle Opener Keyring Enhanced Research)
discord.gg
Huh. Maybe your link was too wide and was getting wedged in the slot in the carrier? Height shouldn't make a difference.
>read about "fa-proof" bcg
>this makes me paranoid
>open up gun safe to check mine
>nope, bcg is perfectly normal
>look into lower
>mfw my 300€ ultra-sooper-crisp™ match trigger makes it impossibru to install the bottle opener
What trigger is that?
Uhl.
Quick google search comes up with youtube.com