A sword without forging

Drilling hardened steel is pretty doable. Just use carbide. I do it all the time.

I agree that a properly forged sword is better than this, this design for example would bend more easily than a european longsword. The goal of the design was that with a handdril, a file and patience you could make a sword.

A harder bit and some patience. For the edge I figured giving it a final sanding before use. If that isnt tight enough some of the pinholes could be bound in with lace and an indent as to not stick out. As for breakage I figured that the edge would chip and the pins would break and you would replace them after striking. Even if one half would give way completely I figured that the remaining other half would still be quite dangerous.

From what i've read stock removal without proper treatment has trouble holding an edge

What equipment would you use for the heat treatment? I hoped that with the right materials i could circumvent high heats, but if thats the way to go then it is what is is. Any tips on doing a proper heat treatment for a stock removal sword?

I think a blunt iron sword would be more efficient than your design

Since this is a homemade weapons thread, how would you go about turning scrap metal like a lawnmower blade into a knife? I'm in Australia so can't really buy weapons but I'd like the experience of making one myself

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I'd say an angle grinder and some hand files would get you pretty far in the basic handshape

From what I´ve seen a file is good for knifemaking. Bit to short for a sword though. Cant you buy machetes in AU?

>attaching harder steel to softer steel for a hard replaceable edge and a softer core to withstand blow
This is literally how Japanese were making their swords because they lacked proper iron fields.

Would attach be the right word? I always though the clay made the same piece softer under it and letting the edge get harder?

They did it both ways, depending on how much steel was available. The vikings did this sometimes as well, they would take two hardened strips of steel for the edges and join them with strips of iron or low-grade steel crisscrossed between them, the result was a kind of snakekin like pattern in the fuller area. _Beowulf_ describes a sword like this, and historical examples have been found in barrows and bogs.

Sounds good, I'll start looking for guides
Knife laws
>"a person must not, without reasonable excuse (proof of which lies on the person), have in his or her custody aknifein a public place or a school." A 'knife' includes aknifeblade, a razor blade and any other blade.
So I'd need a reason to be carrying around a machete, a baseball bat or a 6 cell maglite, which can all be weapons. Keeping a baseball and glove in the boot with a bat is a good enough legal defence usually

vikingsword.com/serpent.html

Just buy a bar of T10 and a fuckton of angle grinder blades. Spend a hundred bucks making a furnace in your backyard if you want to do the differential hardening semi-meme treatment.

It's questionable if this would actually give you much in the way of benefits. While a number of historical swords do combine different hardnesses, and many claim that this is to combine hardness with toughness it's somewhat questionable if the old steels would really give you all that much toughness in the softer portions. At the same time, hardness and strength do tend to correlate a lot, meaning this blade will end up somewhat weaker overall. Thus historical bi-metal construction is likely to have been a cost thing primarily, since the lower carbon steel was cheaper.
When the varying hardness was achieved through differential hardening or tempering we get a toughening of the blade through residual stress (as in hardened glass, it basically ends up being a much less extreme version of a Prince Rupert's drop) it's a bit different, but you're not doing that here, and with mdoenr steels and heat treatment that too is likely to be of little use.

We did in Europe too. Hell, almost everyone did. Originally it started out because furnaces didn't make large enough iron chunks for an entire sword, so you had to forge weld things together. And if you're doing that, well, you may as well put some cheaper material in the core where its lesser performance doesn't matter. Around the 16th century it got much rarer in Europe due to falling steel prices.
As for ore, Japan appears to have had quite enough. In the samurai period the use of "iron sand" instead of rock ore seems to have been an conscious choice, as both were available but the titanium additives found in the latter allowed for a lower fuel consumption during smelting. And of course said iron sand is mostly just eroded rock ore to begin with.

>depending on how much steel was available
To clarify a bit they would always make use of differential hardening, and almost always forge-weld different steels together. When it's just harder steel it's usually a dagger.

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Ah it for out and about. As someone from the netherlands I know your pain of being wingclipped by laws on this. What I myself take with me is a travel can of deodorant for blinding (Just want to smell fresh officer), and a sturdy wooden yoyo which you can use as a Kusari Fundo pretty easily or a Rope Dart if you really want to sink some time into this. Its imperfect, but it helps (me feel safe).