QTDDTOT

Picked up a pre B CZ75 today, ran a couple mags to function test and found the trigger occasionally doesn't want to reset unless I push it forward.
Is it a cleaning issue, a lube issue, or should I look into getting a new return spring?

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You need a new trigger return spring. Common in CZ's. They break every 5-8k rounds.

They make an aftermarket product to provide a cheek weld. I have never used one though but I have heard decent things.

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Comfier than they look/most give credit for. Although I've only used my push button which is offset to provide better support

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Stupid question.
But when I get the tax stamp for a suppressor on a rifle.
Is it for the specific rifle to have the suppressor, or is it for the suppressor itself?
If for the latter, could I put the said suppressor on any gun I own?

On that note amd65tech can provide any spare parts for them. He'll even make a new rubber buffer if yours in missing
Also can provide a ton of information on all wire folders

For the suppressor itself. Not really sure how it would work the other way.
Just like how buying a registered auto sear is registering the sear itself and not the rifle you put it on.

Any of you guys know an online store who has 9mm px4 storms for sale? No LGS around me has one in stock and all the ones on armslist are overpriced or in 40 cal. Looking for $400 or less ideally and okay with used/LE surplus items.

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So I am assembling a reloading set up and not quite sure what kind of powder dispenser I want. I often see mixed reviews for manual chargers. Should I just use scoops or bite the bullet on an electric charge dispenser? I'll be starting off on 38 and 9MM then eventually rifle cartridges.

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Anyone know where to find cheap cz 75b magazines?

Anybody here done hand checkering on a J frame revolver grip and would like to share how hard/easy it was? Got some cheap grips that feel great but that I want to strip and refinish and figure at the same time I might try to add some checkering.

Look at MecGar branded ones, they are cheaper than oem and run nicely

I have a pre world war 2 yugo m24 that was never refurbished to a 24/47 and no matter what I do I can't get the safety to move off fire anyone know a fix?

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gunauction.com/buy/15534618
FIVE HOURS LEFT Good luck!

So is the Fulton Armory M14 ESR worth the $3000 they ask for?

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Want to make my front sight easier to tell apart from the rear, it's all black right now. I see a lot of people do things like all red, but I was thinking. couldn't making it all red but putting two very slim green lines on each side be more helpful? Then you could instantly tell if you were off aim.

Have you taken the bolt apart? Check to make sure nothing is stuck. Other than that, try a rubber mallet or use some serious elbow grease, it was hard for me to turn the safety the first time as well.

Of course not. M14's suck.

when did it start saying this on the armslist agreement page?
"I am responsible for obeying all applicable enforcement mechanisms, including, but not limited to federal, state, municipal, and tribal statutes, rules, regulations, ordinances, and judicial decisions, any applicable Presidential Executive Orders, including compliance with all applicable licensing requirements."

You should always get more magazines man

I can't take the bolt apart because I can't get the saftey in the disassembly position

Wire stock kinda sucks because cheek weld like said adding the raiser makes it usable.

If the wire stock isn't built in like AMD-65 you can always put a fixed stock on there

It looks kinda weird.
Got a better pic of it? Otherwise I'd suggest just getting an M1A, if you want a 14 clone.

Could a person WITH AN SOT just drop one of these in and have a machine gun?

atlanticfirearms.com/products/romanian-ak47-military-fire-control-set-5-pack

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Am I dumb for getting a cz scorpion or should I pay the sig tax and get a mpx?

this is how you get urinary tract infections

iirc when someone put the bolt back together it was cocked/uncocked when it should have been uncocked/cocked (i forgot which one), you have to manually cock the bolt
you need a strong flat surface to pull back on the cam surface
if you need an indepth walkthrough just google "mauser safety stuck" and it's the first hit
it's a pretty common mistake

What kind of front sight is it? I had to put some wire insulation on my Mosin's front sight post to be able to see it past the rear sights

It's a shitty RIA M200 revolver. So very basic ramp type.

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Well I did that and I was able to move the safety when the bolt was disassembled but when I put it back in the rifle and flipped it back to fire it got stuck again and won't move back to safe

Already checked the gq pastebin and didn't see anything on soft armor. Looking for something to be worn under or as part of a jacket. Any brand recommendations or price range for IIIA?

If the top of my forward sights are .6 inches above the middle of my barrel, does that mean I should focus the top of my sights .6 of the center of the target to hit dead center? In theory? Or do I have this backwards? I was just reading about this and people are saying you should aim below where you want to hit.

No. You need the "third hole" as well as a cutout in the right rail for the sear. You'll also need a carrier that has the cutout to trip the sear

You need a conversion jig first too drill the holes for the extra pins

I have a Tantal. It isn't uncomfortable or anything but can leave a lot to be desired as far as cheek weld goes

How would that be as a first wheely gun for someone?

It is my first wheel gun, and I got lucky and got a decent one. No rust, no weird barrel bend and the timing was spot on. I picked it up a few weeks ago for 206 bucks. And it fires just fine and pretty accurate out to 10 yards (that's all I've tried so far). You won't find any love for it though in any wheel thread that pops up.

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Nothing wrong with them other than
>muh price elitists
I'm biased towards the old bodyguard I have though.

QUESTION
does any company make a weapon light that mounts directly to mlok without a rail adapter? My google-fu is weak I haven’t found anything

one whole color would be the easiest way, then. If you can split the color in half exactly 50/50 or leave a very thin black line outside in the middle then go for it. Just be aware if you don't draw it on perfectly then it'll screw with your aim. Solid color and learning how to use it would probably be the easiest.

Am I retarded if I buy scorpion Tactical, CATI, or some other generic trauma pads for under $30? What the fuck is really even the difference between gucci trauma pads and like a wrestling mat?

Nene is best knight saber

>all of those issues
Are people seriously getting new ones with those types of issues?

I mean I have no clue what I am doing when It comes to them. I originally wanted a Manurhin before I look up the prices on those lol.

>new ones
From what I've read these were all issues from years ago. Like 2012-2013. Everything I've read, especially post 2017 wise hasn't had the issues.

Works for me

you messed up reassembling, the safety catch has to be in a certain (i don't remember, look it up) position when you put everything back together or it'll get stuck

Glad i'm not the only one that has tried this. Advice - use a plastic rod.

are these any good?
budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/12516/Springfield XDs 9mm 3.3 ESSENTIAL Black

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can you change those out for a traditional stock? planing to buy a 74 but the only ones i see for sale are those OP posted

I took the bolt out of the rifle and attempted to disassemble it since the saftey could not be flipped to the disassembly position the bolt decocked itself I then pulled back the striker with my hand and flipped the saftey up to the disassembly position and put the bolt back together then I put the bolt in the rifle (with the saftey still in the vertical disassembly position) and tested that the saftey was working which it was I then put it on fire to see if I could now flip it back on safe normally like I should and when I set it to fire it got stuck again so no i did not reassemble it wrong i have a german k98k that has a normal working saftey and that's how the bolt disassembly works on it

I want to buy a brownells A1 replica as my first AR. Good idea?

about as good of an idea as sending in a bomb threat directly to your local PD

What decent optic can I add to an AKM while maintaining the wood style

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Yes, standard rear trunnion

Russian optics have the rugged look for that

Maybe a PK-01? You looking for a red dot, magnified...?

whats with all the hate for the brownells rifles?

They that bad?

Magnification, but I don't know a clue about what I'm looking for outside of that

Brownells is a shit company. Their ARs, while not built by them, have every corner cut imaginable while offering you less for more compared to what you can build at home.

Obviously you aren't going to get arrested for terrorism for purchasing one, but they're notoriously shit, especially if you're getting one as your first AR.

I have heard it was only the furniture that was garbage? They use nodak receivers, and tool craft bcg's, correct?

It's Brownells, everything is garbage. The price is ~$300 over what'd it'd cost to build yourself assuming you have the tools.

it would probably be ok if it was just 5.45. but you can change the stock out to a solid one if you so desire.

also, does anyone know where I could find cold war polish camo pants? I cannot for the life of me find them online.

How do you guys store magazines?

Some in the safe, some in the guns, some in bags.

Does leaving pmags loaded damage them? What about USGI alloy magazines?

Use the dust cover provided for the pmags or don't I don't think it really matters, and no.

I own a wz 88 tantal they have the same stock as the md 86 recoil is vary mild and it is fun to shoot.

Also if you do plan on getting a ak with a wire folding stock I suggest yo get a cheek rise from Amd 65 tech.

I have a CZ Bren 805 that I'm trying to change the back strap on.
In order to do this I have to remove a pin which the manual says is secured with "glue." And it just says "take it to a gunsmith"
obviously I'm not going to do that.
What kind of glue am I supposed to use when I swap the grips out?

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Mediocre “stocks” at best. 5.56 or 5.45 it’s manageable. 7.62 is harder to use but not impossible.

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What are some other shotguns on the market with stainless barrels? I NEED one

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guns.com/news/2013/01/02/marine-grade-5-shotguns-for-your-boat
5 seconds on google.

None of those are stainless

I'm still new to revolvers so I don't quite understand what's going on. I know there is blow by because of the way the cylinder lines up to the barrel. but while going to clean it after my first 100 rounds I've noticed that there is carbon build up in the 3 to 6 o'clock section of the barrel only. As if it's all building up there. You can actually see a lip of where it's higher than everywhere else. What would cause this? Would it be a timing issue maybe where there is just a small amount of cylinder play causing the gases to exit one side more than another? Any way for me to break this down? I've tried using some of my soldering tools like pricks and scrappers, but it doesn't seem to want to come off very easily.

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I found a Luger on Gunbroker, and it looks like it’s too good to be true. Supposedly something like 98% original bluing and still has cosmoline on it. I emailed the seller asking what the deal with it is, and this is the response I got.

>Thank you for your interest.
I obtained the Luger from my neighbor. It was bequeathed to him by his deceased Father. My neighbor is 68 years old. As far back as he can remember, this gun along with several other WWII vintage weapons, was kept in his Father's gun cabinet. My neighbor is not a "gun guy" and told me his Father never let him fire these guns or fired them himself and never talked about his 82nd Airborne experiences in the Battle of the Bulge. He likes the P-38 and the Remington Rand 1911, but decided to part with an M1A1 paratrooper carbine and this pistol with the old ammo, clips, etc. When I first took possession of the pistol I was frankly amazed that a grease I assume is cosmoline covered a lot of the external and almost all of the internals. Further amazed when I got some of it wiped off and inspected the bore, feed ramp, toggle, etc. I am no Luger expert and I have no idea where it came from or how the Father acquired it. The neighbor believes he "liberated" all of the firearms when discharged from service. It was in his sole possession at least 60 years that we know of. I have done only cursory research on the model/year, enough to remove the grips and disassemble it to ascertain that the parts are all match numbered, partly since the grips are not black bakelite (Black Widow Model Pistol). I wanted to be sure of my story. It is all the real deal to my knowledge and my amateur level of verification (assisted by the video from Simpson Ltd.).

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I don’t know what to make of him. What do you anons think? How can I tell a legitimate Luger from a reblued, force matched one?

With 5.45 is quite good, with 7.62 you have to wear more than just a shirt, a sweater makes it quite comfortable

If you were to shoot yourself in the head with a handgun what would be the best angle? Back of the throat angled down? Aiming across the temple is a good way to go blind. I cant think of a reliable place from the side. I figure youd want to severe the spine but im not convinced youd get the vertabre spot on reliably.

Deepthroat the bitch so you're sure it its the base of the skull.

Anyone got the image of the guy with an AR in a humvee aiming up at a guy taking a picture from his window?

165 grain or 180 grain for 40?

Don’t kill yourself with a gun asshole. Don’t become another statistic

Late af but have you tried any solvent or cleaner yet? Those usually are really cheap and work well

just use super glue you can just use acetone to dissolve it if you ever need it again

you can use the same methods with ball bearings and bolt heads if you dont want people dicking with your shit

Does anyone know how to replace the tritium in a SUSAT?

I bought one a few years back because I liked the optic. When I first bought it it still had a faint red glow but it has since faded completely. I'm sure trilux would charge an arm and a leg to replace it (not to mention international shipping). I've also heard that due to more recent laws everywhere they wont replace it with brighter/longer lasting vials because laws.

I've tried searching for service manuals or repair guides but can't manage to find anything.

I bought a new plastic handguard but it doesn't fit. Eould heated water be hot enough so I could bend the plastic so it would fit then?
I know what to do, but I don't know how much heat I'd need

Drop handguard in boiling water for 30 seconds

I did and it fits now. Thank anyways. Now I gotta work on the gas tube part, trying the same trick, but I think I'll need to file this one