Tikka T1X vs CZ 457?

As a first gun to teach me and my brother the fundamentals of marksmanship, what would be a better choice? I am leaning towards the T1X, handled it a bit and seems much better regarding finish and smoothness of the bolt, more than the CZ 455 I tried. What are you opinions, anyone handled them both?

Attached: tikka-t1x-rimfire-0.jpg (600x317, 36K)

Other urls found in this thread:

cz-usa.com/product/cz-457-training-rifle/
cz-usa.com/product/cz-457-lux/
archive.org/download/PAM23-2/PAM23-2.pdf
appleseedinfo.org/
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Are you dead set on a bolt action .22? I'd personally recommend a Ruger 10/22 or Marlin Model 60, I had both growing up and they're relatively inexpensive and good for learning fundamentals.

Use the money saved on accessories and ammo for practice

>teach me and my brother the fundamentals of marksmanship,
>pick a gun with no iron sights
really?

I thought they were cheap and inaccurate? I wamted a quality bolt .22lr rifle because it reaches ammo conservation and are more accurate

cz 457 training rifle (the 455 just got replaced)

its the best 22 bolt rifle ever made for the price. You can also pop off the barrel for 22wsm , and 17hmr

cz-usa.com/product/cz-457-training-rifle/

if you want the same gun just a bit more gucci get the lux

cz-usa.com/product/cz-457-lux/

Attached: lux 457.png (500x333, 29K)

Personal preference I suppose, but there are differences from the 455 and the 457. They redesigned the bolt on the 457, relocating the safety from on the bolt to next to it in the right side (in a more conventional layout), and the bolt throw is now 60° instead of 90° the 452 and 455 had. I’m not sure which variants have this option, but for the training rifle the barrels are interchangeable for .22lr, 22 magnum, and .17 hmr. I’m looking to get the 457 training rifle myself

Attached: CACB1313-11BB-49B3-8D60-0D4B1B65A436.png (1070x713, 2.93M)

Dont worry about conserving .22. And my 10/22 using CCI standard velocity unplated stuff (read garbage) shoots 1.5-1.75" at 100yds. That being said, yeah it's a cheap POS and wont reliably cycle those standard velocity rounds in the 10 rounders.

If you want a bolt gun, get a bolt gun. CZs, Tikkas, and Savages are good. If you want a semi-auto, get a dedicated .22 upper from PSA or CMMG.

Bump

I wish cz continued to make the 550 full stock in 30-06

Ugly fucking stock through and through. I couldn't imagine trying to get a proper sight alignment with those sites with the cheek weld one would get.

What do you mean? Quality or geometry?

Ditto

Never shot one obviously.
The drop comb is designed for the iron sights.
Putting a scope on one messes up the cheek weld because of the increased sight line over the bore.
My Ultra Lux and American.
Different sights, different stocks.
Dammit. No pics on my phone

Can you mount a scope on a 457 training rifle?

Yes, all CZ have a European style 11mm dovetail now.
Found my pictures.
The older 452 American had a 3/8" rail and CZ standardized on 11mm with the 455.
452 Ultra Lux on top and CZ452 American Tribal with Leupold 6.5-20X40 EFR scope.

Attached: 9isRcVZ.jpg (1024x768, 195K)

Ok and you're saying that this type of stock isn't suited for a scope? I want to learn the basics of marksmanship and I wonder how necessary it is to have iron sights

Don't fall for the 10/22 meme. If you want semi-auto, just get a used 22 from your LGS for ~150. For what most kommandos do with them, it's equivalent. Only advantage of the ruger is that it's standard so you can build a thousand dollar 10/22 instead of buying an anschutz. If you want a good gun CZ is the best value for bolt guns atm. Very nice guns.

>falling for .22 meme
Why? Just get a AR or 7.62

Cucknada

$41 per 1k rounds of ammo ar WalMart

Height over bore is the issue.
See how low my scope is mounted?
Less drop to the comb on that stock keeps your cheek weld high enough that your eye is centered when you shoulder the rifle. It is a compromise though.
If I was going to shoot Silhouette competitions, always from standing offhand unsupported, I would use higher rings, or more drop to the comb. Shooting prone with a sling, I would move the scope forward a bit more at the same height. Prone supported with a bipod it can come back. You want Natural Point of Aim in every position. It can also be called the Zero Force Firing Position. No muscle tension, or chicken necked straining to get behind the sights and keep them on target.

Your reading assignment.
US Army Pamphlet 23-2 Hits Count.
archive.org/download/PAM23-2/PAM23-2.pdf

Best basic marksmanship instructions I have found.
Suitable for Iron sights or low power optics.
Some Appleseed AQT targets too.
appleseedinfo.org/

Attached: images.png (180x279, 9K)

Ok thanks mate for all the info. In your opinion, are iron sights necessary for learning? Because I don't want to buy 2 rifles, one with iron and one scoped. It will be too expensive

Tikka T3 .270 Win was my first rifle and it serves me well, I wouldn't change anything

My first rifle was the Iron sight Ultra Lux.
You can add a scope to it later.
The Burris Timberline series are smaller diameter adjustable objective scopes that fit low and behind the rear iron sight.
Do some searching over on Rimfire Central.
That is the best Rimfire Forum on the internet.
Something like this.
It has a miniature Safari Rifle look to it.

Attached: images(3).jpg (418x120, 8K)

Just get a 10/22.

You can go either way. With a 22 you're not shooting beyond 100 yards (normally) so I lean towards iron sights. Why buy a nice scope when you don't need it?