/MSG/ - Military Surplus General

Old Thread: Pic related is the Arisaka bayonet I got at a gun show last weekend for $30. It's a school trainer and won't lock onto my rifle, but I'm not going to be charging any bunkers on Iwo Jima with it, so that's fine- it was cheap and it looks nice.

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military.com/kitup/2019/02/19/heres-how-much-has-been-made-sale-surplus-m1-rifles-civilians.html
steinelammo.com/product/7-7-x-58-japanese-arisaka-150gr-sp-light-recoil/
youtube.com/watch?v=77jcXDGi7RU
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Speaking of which - I have a trashed old M8 bayonet sheath I don't care about and a repro Arisaka bayonet coming in the mail - how feasible would it be to combine the two into a repro of the South Korean Arisaka bayonets used during the Korean War? How would I go about it?

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Close-up 1

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Close-up 2

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Interesting article: CMP apparently made $323 million in revenue over the past ten years, with $197 million of that coming from Garand sales:

military.com/kitup/2019/02/19/heres-how-much-has-been-made-sale-surplus-m1-rifles-civilians.html

I have a real one, but it's missing the assembly that makes it stay on the gun.

That's not trashed. Looks fine, don't bubba the bayo.

Reading comprehension.

I'm saying don't bubba the fucking m8 bayonet sheath.
>Inb4 It's worthless, who cares.
Bubba has to be stopped. Buy a repro then do it.

Really ought to figure out what to do with my beat-to-hell Italian Garand bayonet grips

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I saw a Type 99 in decent condition with the bayonet for $300 at a local shop, is that a good price?

I'd need to know more about the Type 99 like mum, matching numbers, early war or late war, bore condition, sling, etc. to give you a definitive answer but yes, that sounds like a good deal considering that the bayonets alone go for $100+.

Thanks, yeah I foolishly didnt grab any of that stuff since I didnt have a ton of interest in one beforehand but saw this thread and figured I would ask. I live in a really low pop. area so im not really worried about someone else grabbing it before I can go back

Yeah, that’s a good price. Buy milsurp now before it goes up even more.

Regardless, as long as the gun is in decent working order and the bayonet isn't a rusted stick, it would be a good deal for $300. If you do end up getting it and post some pics here, you can even find when and where it was made. I hope you reload like everyone else into surp because 7.7x58 isn't cheap but for brass, you can at least size .30-06 cases into 7.7x58 cases.

It *is* still made though:
steinelammo.com/product/7-7-x-58-japanese-arisaka-150gr-sp-light-recoil/

It is, I was referring to the rifle itself (i.e which arsenal).

>have Finnish M28
>excellent condition
>has SIG barrel
>paid $300

Do you think selling it for $700 is reasonable? I impulse bought it a few years ago and if I can get 700 for it I will sell it, if not I will keep it.

>$700
Pics? I don't see it bringing that much unless it's still in pre-War Civil Guard condition with no signs of Army usage. After 1944 the Army got all the CG rifles when the CG was disbanded and they usually refurbished or at least marked them with the Army property mark.

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You can probably get that if you're willing to sit on it for a bit. But it probably won't sell fast.

300 is breddy gud.

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No pics currently. I do know its on a 1916 tula receiver and the bolt and receiver have the numbers struck-through.

I sold off around 12 of my nuggets last year and I kept this one by mistake. It has kinda grown on me.

>buying ammo
laughs in reloading

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$500 is more expected for a M28.

Brownells is making Hi-Powers...

Meh Ill keep it for that. Also why are Finn M91's so dirt cheap? I just sold one and it only brought 355. Thats 91/30 prices.

The only Finn rifles that people want are m39s and 28-30s.

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Ive always preferred the M28 to the M39.

>Brownells is importing Turkish-made Hi-Powers...
FTFY. Is there ANY gun the Turks don't clone? They're putting NORINCO to shame.

>why are Finn M91's so dirt cheap?
Too long for most people.

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I really need to buy another Type 38.
I think my wife's rifle is actually a Type 97, but there's no fucking way I'm gonna be able to get one any time soon.

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Are the Turk clones any good or is that one video with the shotguns going to be par for the course for anything they send our way?

Type 38?

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Type 38?

They'll probably be fine. Johnny Turk does well when he's not trying to design something himself.

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Turk clones can be OK.

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Took my bolt out of my Arisaka. And now its stuck in the firing position with the firing pin sticking out. When i put the bolt back in it wont close all the way.
How do I disassemble the bolt when its in the firing position?

Not sure if I'm describing this adequately

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Not really a clone; more of a zombie.

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S'cuse me but this here Type 99 was had for all of $400. Mum, dust cover, cleaning rods, everything. The bore is also perfect.

Guy I bought it from tried to hike the price up on me $150 above the sticker price, but I wasn't having any of it.

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Re-cock the bolt.

If it's like a Mauser you have to recock it somehow. I used a table corner as a lever to do it on my 98 bolt

Push on the end piece and turn clockwise until you can't turn it anymore and then pull it out. The striker and spring should come out the back

wont turn. When it inst on fire,
the safety knob can turn.

the bolt slides in fine, but I feel like I'm going to break something trying to cock it

Nice. Have a !Type 38.

Also someone is going to ask you for the markings so they can know what series and factory.

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how's 7.7 compare to 6.5? Does it make it feel like a generic Mauser or is there still some uniqueness to it?

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You don't need the rifle to re-cock the bolt. Just put the sear contact surface of the firing pin (the bit that sticks down at the back) against a square edge like a table and use it to compress the mainspring until you can rotate the bolt body 90 degrees counterclockwise to secure the rear of the firing pin in the cocked position.

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It worked, thanks user.

Anyone here has some experience with the Schmidt-Rubin family; 1889/96, 1911, K11? They're certainly purdy guns but I cannot find much discussion about/by owners online.

It's a fifth series Nagoya.
Honestly, I don't really know seeing as I've never shot a 6.5 Arisaka before. It could be down to a lot of factors, but I prefer it over the dozens of other Mauser copies I've fired before, with the only real exception being an Eddystone.

Recoil is about what you'd expect, the weight distribution is excellent and I like the sights a lot. Cock on close is nice, and it doesn't have any issues with primary extraction.

You're gonna have to be more specific. What kind of experience? Is there anything in particular you want to know about them?

My first rifle was this Type 38 carbine. I love it, its what got me into the hobby. I just got this Type 99, and I'm not really a fan. The kick is way stronger, action is about the same. I like all the bells and whistles (monopod, AA sights) but I just feel the 38 carbine was perfection, its a great round and the gun is a great size.

I'm going to start reloading for my 99, and I'm going with a 150gr, down from the 175 I bought, so that might make the kick more similar to the 38 which I usually load with a 140gr bullet.

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First, I'm seeing there was an upgrade in the 7.5Swiss round across the lineage, which mean the earlier guns used lighter loads. Would it be dangerous/destructive to use modern median loads in a, say, G1889?
Otherwise, generally I'd love to just hear what someone has to say about their straight-pull gun. The four/five K31s I've handled were butter-smooth in the action, and I'm wondering if the predecessors are similar. I'd get a K31, but I've the worst of luck on that front so I'm looking for alternatives. There's a Schmidt-Rubin 96/11 doing the puppy eyes at me right now, but I wouldn't be against the idea of getting an older version.

It would be dumb, because those scabbards are fucking common. They're only rare if they still contain their original bayonets as the scabbards were imported sans bayonets.

the 1889s are chambered for a slightly different cartridge that's got a significantly lighter loading. 7.5 Swiss chamber and fire, but it's not safe to do so. The K11 and K31 can handle 7.5 Swiss, though.

The big evolutionary difference seems to be the length of the action - each successive iteration has a shorter action.

You could have just taken off the safety knob and put the firing pin in the correct orientation. It goes on the longer notch.

A good bit more recoil from the 7.7. In my loads at least, it's about the same as M2 ball or similar loadings. 6.5 is almost .223 levels of recoil.

I'll post some rare Arisakas in an Arisaka thread.

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You cannot rotate the safety nob when the bolt is in the firing position. Which is why I couldn't disassemble it.

You can also not put the safety nob back on if you assembled the bolt in the cocked position.

why is it rare? Because its a Type 99 long?

While not exactly rare, Type 99s that are all matching and have all of their original parts are hard to find and are uncommon. As are original slings. The rubberized canvas disintegrates over time.

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Yes. The Toyo Kogyo is more into the uncommon category, but the Nagoya is rare. It's also literally the 641st Type 99 made by Nagoya arsenal. They made over a million.

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I don't know a whole lot about different types of 7.5, so that's a question for someone else.

I've fired most rifles in the Schmidt Rubin family and the K31 is objectively superior. That being said, the 96/11 is also very nice and if you can get it for a decent price I say go for it. K31's are retard expensive.

If I ever get a real job, I'd get an Arisaka paratrooper carbine.

Cool. If they’re so common, I’m sure you can link me to where to buy one then. And don’t say “Just Google it”, because I already did that and got nothing.

I don't know what this metal tab is, but the Type 30 Bayonet doesn't have it. If its apart of the M8 sheath then loop it though like in the picture. Otherwise you're going to have to make something.

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Anyone know what I'd do if I have a bayonet for a G3, but only a 16" PTR? Would the G28 extended flash hider work to have me attach it?

My friend and I have been appreciating your kitchen for several threads now.

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I need to find some more recipes to shitpost with. Any suggestions for things that I can cook in bulk that freeze and reheat well?

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I know this probably isn't traditional, but for me, I put steamed buns into my freezer and reheat in my microwave. Pretty easy, and is really interesting to eat.

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I have a pretty beat early Toyo Koygo type 99. Is it worth it to buy a new bolt (Mines a late war) and a repro mono pod and dustcover? Besides the Bolt. It's all matching, but has some bad spots on the bluing from rust.

They were imported over 30 years ago. They're still common and I'm sure you can find one on ebay, or make a WTB on gunboards.

>Is it worth it to buy a new bolt (Mines a late war) and a repro mono pod and dustcover?
No. Repro parts don't add value. The Japanese removed those parts for a reason. It's a part of the rifle's history.

Also post some pics, especially one like pic related. Your rifle may in fact not have come with a monopod or even a dust cover.

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I'll get pics soon, but mine sure did. It also had a dustcover. And from what I've read, these parts were not removed by the Japanese. But americans, and simply getting lost while in the US.
And I don't care about value, I just want to larp. (Without being a bubba.)

I disagree that it was just Americans. Too many early Type 99s that are found missing their dust cover, monopod and AA sights sometimes, but with the screws still factory staked and the finish is in excellent condition. In other words, besides those parts being removed they are unissued and unmessed with.I don't think the Japanese were removing those parts in the field, but I do think they were taking them off rifles warehoused in Japan.

Here's a photo of some Japanese soldiers surrendering and it shows an early war rifle with those parts stripped off.

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This photo shows a rifle picked up off the battlefield. It's missing those parts.

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Interesting, That those would be removed. Not in the field I imagine, they would not tolerate modification to the emperors rifle. (At least that's what I've seen.)
Also, here is a pic of the stock were the mono pod would go.

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Could it be guns made with what they had left but they were not adding the bells and whistles?
Also, here is the serial. (Fuck you ATF.)

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And the top of the receiver. (Note the missing sight slider... oR whatever it's called.)
I also picked the gun up for $75. And the bore is perfect.

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The end of the rifle. (Sorry for the close ups. Shit camera.)

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Thoroughly enjoyed the use of milsurp in' cold skin'. First half of it is pre /k kino.

youtube.com/watch?v=77jcXDGi7RU

Lighthouse keeper is pre essence of /k

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Having that foot doesn't mean it had a monopod originally. They still kept using those bands even after that stopped installing the monopod.
I think that's a 31st series. Yours wasn't stamped that good.
That's a good deal, even if missing that.

Maybe, the wood shows wear like it had one, and it's not showing up, but it's somewhat scratched on the end and the spot where the pod would be attached.
Yes, it's a series 31. And it's a bad stamping? It had some pitting in the numbers sadly. And that Symbol on the end is rubbed off badly.
Would a repro monopod be a bad idea? (I'm not passing it off as being original.) I can also get a repro dust cover for 10 bucks from a friend. Should I? Maybe a better bolt? And I am already ordering a new sight with AA on it. (It was a good deal for a sight to begin with.)

Yeah, the monopods tend to make a mark on the wood. You can see it sorta hear.

And no. Just leave it as it is m8. The repro monopods and dust covers aren't even that good. Mismatched/repro dust covers tend to scratch up the finish. Hell, even original ones that are dented do that too.

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I'll avoid that then, I guess I need to hunt one down with a Dust cover now. It completes the look. Though I'm gunning for a type-38 Hopefully.

*Forgot to add.
FUCK I WANT A LONG BOI TYPE-99.
And this thing was under the wood.

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*Under the handguard.
I was the first to unstake some of the screws. I didn't really want too. But it was this or a barrel slowly rusting away. (And some turn fucked the back one up anyway.)

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Repo dust covers will mess up the finish. Dust covers were handmade to fit a specific gun. And a lot of soldiers took them off anyways because they can be a pain.

As for the monopods, I bought a repo for mine. Be sure you have a dremel, because the repos don't fit properly. It might be another case of each monopod being handmade to fit a particular rifle. They will also scratch up the wood (dremel is also handy for that too). But my stock was already scratched up so, w/e.

Frankly I like it. It makes the gun look cooler, its a novelty like the AA sights. And its easier to shoot it prone or sitting down, though I guess you could just buy a rook sack for that.

I'd say if your rifle isn't in pristine condition, go for it, you can always take it off. And it could increase the value since the next person wouldn't have to buy one. My type 38 came with a repo strap and I felt it was a good selling point, saving me 25 bucks.

Yeah, I'm gonna stay away from dustcovers. Maybe we should make repros from some sort of polymer? Not perfect. but it would be safe to the rifle. And make it "look" nicer.
Maybe, If I get one that wouldn't be a issue. I could do that easily.
It sure fucking does make it look better.
It's not pristine, not even close. But I'd still dremel it out to not even touching the wood.

Unless the gun is truly horrible on the outside, there shouldn't be any rust under the woodline.

You really should post that thing on gunboards and have someone translate it. I also had a Type 99 that had some small pieces of burlap under the stock.

No, the Japanese soldiers didn't remove their dust covers. Why would they make a rifle with it if they were just going to throw it away? It doesn't "rattle" like the meme suggests. I've seen literally hundreds of pictures of Japanese soldiers. Until you get into very late in WWII, all rifles have dust covers.

Dust covers make sense when you consider why they are on their in the first place. Here's a picture of Japanese soldiers in the Russo-Japanese war. Their Type 30 rifles are covered with rags to keep dust from jamming up their action.

And no, repro monopods don't add value. In fact, they take away from the value as most collectors will be wondering what else the previous owner did to it.

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>bore is perfect
Pretty much all type 99's have perfect bores because the japs chrome lined them and corrosive ammo doesnt exist for it

>mfw just spent 2k on a Tavor
>just unpacked it, gave it the look around.
>compare its size to my M1 carbine
>now i want to shoot my M1 carbine more than my new Tavor

i didnt ask for this feel

It had some nasty rust spots going under. And it was under the wood sadly. 50 more odd years and it would be unshootable.
It had to be done.
Yeah, I'll post it over there. Want to know what it says! Also, I found a early war bolt for $100. Gonna buy it, it's going ot better that my currently bolt, found the firing pin tip is gone.
But for the price I got it, I'm not mad. (the bolt is definitely mismatched and from a late war.)
And for the monopod, I wouldn't be adding it to add value, just for larp purposes. I only add thing that can be taken off without damage, so I might not even try it.

True, It's really nice that they did that.

Not all have chrome lined bores. The real reason that all Type 99s have perfect bores is that none were ever used for more than just a couple of weeks.

You honestly have no guarantee that the bolt will fit perfectly.

It's worth more to actually buy a rifle with those original parts already, then to try to make one with repro parts. You can always get your money out of one that is original and they are going up in value. You can't do the same with ones "corrected" with repro parts.

Ehh, to late. Already bought it. But it's a match to my arsenal. So I'm probably fine. Most 99's are mismatched anyways. So I'm thinking it's not as much of a issue with arisakas.
Also found some 7.7 ammo where I bought it though! So I already have some test ammo. And I'm ordering a die set for it.

My Nagoya Type 99 long rifle has a mismatched bolt. It's also from a Type 99 long or a early Type 99 short rifle, and it really doesn't fit right. The extractor likes to pop up and hit the breech face.

Interesting, Might be from a different arsenal? Or just not fitting! My bolt is not great, and it's not fitting perfect either. But good enough to shoot. Is yours a shooter? (I also wanted that chromed bolt face. It looks really nice with it.)

Nah, I don't shoot it. I have others I can shoot. I've shot my Toyo Kogyo Type 99 long though.

Hmm, hope my new bolt will fit fine. Can't be any worse than this one.

Posting arisucc's?

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Wtf is this, Arisaka general?

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It is now. Post some Arisakas! The best bolt rifle of both world wars!