Stuck buffer tube

So I backed the castle nut out, then Put the vepr in a table vise and then used vice grips to try and unscrew it. I got it 45 degrees but now it's completely stuck and I had to stop because it was starting to unseat the slantback AR adapter. I feel like whoever installed the buffer tube originally used red locktite or epoxy, this is fucking ridiculous. Any thoughts? Should I freeze it? Torch it? Lube it up?

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So you think it's epoxy'd or red loktited and your first idea was to ask here instead of googling on how to remove either?

Well hello friend. I figured on the off chance someone might have been in a similar scenario before. I don't know what kind or if any adhesive material has been used I just can't get it off and can't figure out why.

Heat it, rotate, oil, heat, rotate, until it comes off.

There's no receiver endplate on there, which is what actually keeps the buffer tube from rotating. The castle nut by itself doesn't do anything, it really needs the endplate to work. My guess is that whoever installed the buffer tube forgot about the endplate and just loctited that shit. Heat, oil, work it out, repeat.

>AK
Found your problem

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how hard was the first 45 degrees to turn?
the threads may be crossed

What If I just hacksaw it off and then bit by bit cut the Remaining bits out of the threads

How do you plan to get the stuck part off with less leverage

use this until it comes off. that's the only thing that works on red loctite.

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That's officially the most retarded thing you could do.

That's the part I'm hazy on. I saw this guy did it successfully and without damaging the threads. My only problem is I can't remove the adapter from the ak so I can't attack it from both sides with a file or saw like he did

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that guy cut a notch from the inside with a thin saw and just peeled it off. It won't work in your case.

If I did cut it, how would I possibly get any of that stuff out without being able to cut from the inside?

By throwing it in the garbage, retard. You broke it, hard stop.

Try heat. One of these fuckers. You should have one anyway, so if you don't own one then this is the perfect opportunity to go out and buy one. Heat around it for at least 3 or 4 minutes and keep checking for the smell of melting plastic. After first assuring there is no visible plastic in the tube and/or rear of the rifle. I used a torch to loosen red loctite that was holding the horrible folding stock onto my VZ58, and it was super easy to remove the screw and then put on glorious beaver barf stock I ordered from some dude in Latvia.
Thanks again Blargnaork, or whatever your name was. (when my stock didn't show up after two months he shipped me another one, then they both showed up within a few days of each other. after I emailed him to tell him, so I could pay for the second one he told me not to bother so I got two complete beaver barf stocks including front handguards with mounting hardware for about $65 USD)

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Just use canted ironsights

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Drill a hole through buffer tube, put screw driver through, so you have something to torque down on.
Heat the threads for a couple minutes, don’t melt anything.
Use screwdriver to turn.

>buffer tube on an AK
Gee it's almost like it wasn't made for it or something
That's what you get ARtard

Smited by God for putting a buffer tube on an AK

came here to say this.

Also sometimes turning it back and forth can help, I had a stuck AK muzzle brake once and it helped immensely to just try and work the brake back and forth until whatever the hell was stuck worked itself free.

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I didn't put it on. The original owner did and I'm trying to unfuck it. Still was an amazing deal, I paid 700$ for it, its a 16" legion imported vepr 308 that has never been fired, pretty sure it's worth almost three times that.

Update: bought a torch but afraid to use it. So I've just been cranking it with vice grips and holding it in my other hand. White color on the newly exposed threadings confirmed for locktight???

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Why would you use an AR stock adapter on an AK? That's retarded, there's plenty of collapsible and folding stocks for the AK, you don't need an adapter you retard.

OP is trying to remove the buffer tube that the previous owner put on. I actually have two AKs with AR stocks, but I used the Bonesteel folding buffer tube adapter. The ability to have a folding stock and fit in a tennis racquet bag is one of the AK's biggest advantages IMO.

I would use the bone steel but the guy gave me the vepr folder adapter from carolina shooter supply. Tennis racquet bag, good idea.

Don't fear the torch man, it's your friend when you have any kind of stuck hardware. Just be a little careful and it'll be fine, you would have to really fuck up to melt or damage anything.

Bro that looks almost like gorilla glue to me.
Use your torch but not direct, hold the flame like half an inch to an inch away from the part, play it slow. You can't really do a tremendous amount of damage here...
I would also consider denatured alcohol but I'm retarded and someone is bound to point it out just watch.

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Let me clarify, no denatured alcohol and torch at the same time, not even in the same 10 square feet since I'm assuming you're at best as smart as the average channer.

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Yeah, I like having my rifles in bags that don't scream GUN. Usually those tennis racquet bags are pretty cheap, and have multiple pockets for magazines and ammo.

I'm reading so much mixed signals on torching the threads. I hear it makes the red locktite ease up, but that the heat also makes the buffer tube expand, so if I torch near the threads it will actually be detrimental to what I'm trying to do?

Heat makes metal expand but also become more malleable you goofball.

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>BEnPb-308

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Just stop it.
OP do not listen to this retard. Denatured alcohol is very flammable. Shits only for degreasing threads.

XD

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Listen up. Its metal. In this specific case. You need to apply heat to the buffer tube only. Not the receiver. Heat will transfer through and dissolve the leak lock. That is the goal. The only is to help unthread it.

Nah flame + alch is a-ok. I'll try it right after I Finish cleaning my kids bathroom with ammonia and bleach.

Hey man, have you priced kids? Seems like sensible financial planning to me.

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I just have one right now. Not keen on a second ATM, but not because of money. I don't think I can give kid #2 all the love and attention kid #1 has gotten. I don't care what anyone tries to say but you can't deny the simple math and logistics: if kid #2 happens, every dollar, every hug, every consideration, every bit of patience, everything kid #1 has will instantly be cut in half for the rest of their existence. And kid #2 will not get the same level of attentive care that kid #1 had when they were younger because kid #1 was alone, kid #2 has to sacrifice whatever full attention they should be getting back to kid #1 because that one is growing at the same time.

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Start with warm water, and if that doesnt loosen it, consult a forum on removing whatever glue you suspect it is

Did it without the torch. My hands are bleeding and filled with metal shavings but it's off. I've never seen an adapter with innards like this before, wierd. Any advice for cleaning up the threads? Wire brush?

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Brass brush

throwing it away and putting a wood stock on.

>I've never seen an adapter with innards like this before
That's because it wasn't crossthreaded.

I second the denatured alcohol method. Try brake cleaner too actually, some sort of degreaser. Cause if it is glue, then that'll come off. It's prolly not loctite, that's usually red or blue. Dark horse possibility is it's teflon. Sometimes people use that to tighten commerical threads. Particularly on like shower heads and shit

No reason not to try the torch. All you're gonna do is heat up the metal. Worst case you'll scorch an area but I think you're beyond caring at this point.

Proud of you user. Saw this thread taking a shit at work today and thought you'd never get it off.

>Denatured alcohol is very flammable.

not true. it is quite inflammable.

That means a lot to me friend that you took the time to say that, thanks!

Loctite turns white you dumb nigger

good job buddy, i was hoping you could get it off without trashing that beast of a vepr

Same here... Just sat down for lunch and was thinking " hey I wonder if that guy got the buffer tube off yet. ."

Same.
seriously get rid of that adapter and put a normal stock on it. You will need to have it converted but could most likely do it in your garage for 30 dollars and 10 minutes with a drill.

>I've never seen an adapter with innards like this before
??? It's a hole with threads on the inside. What's surprising you?

DO NOT HEAT UP TEFLON

IT GIVES OFF A POISONOUS GAS

His 308 is not converted as it is a saiga or vepr and he doesn't understand that the trigger and grip need to be moved up to their normal positions.
It's offsetting the hell out of the rear trunjion and honestly should just be moved up and put in its proper seating instead of having that silly smol tilting sear to work over-complexly to release the hammer.

THIS but at the time I dont think that user knew it was teflon for sure but the OP already got it off and we're good. Now the jerk just needs to convert it instead of putting another god-awful empty buffer tube on it..

>need to have it converted
What the shit are you talking about? CSS has a slant to straight cut adapter and Ironwood sells slant cut stocks if you don't want to do that
ironwooddesigns.com/vepr-svd-akm-custom.html

Oh fuck you're right I'm retarded after re-checking OPs picture. Hmph.

was there a set screw on the bottom of the adapter?

Really happy everyone is enjoying this thread. I'm taking the adapter completely off and going to put a straight to slant or just slant cut AK stock. I'll do whatever you guys want. First to get trips decides what stock I get and I will do whatever you want to it. Go crazy, I'll carve your name into it or your kids birthday, whatever you want. I personally would like someone to make me make a rear stock out of a shovel handle, I'm game for that and I will deliver. Then we can work our way to redesigning the foregrip with whatever, are you guys down?

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Black Horse tactical psl lookalike. Have fun trying to source one, and then paying 500 for it

I don't understand a lick of what you just wrote. Going to, pick it for me. There was a set screw but I took it out before I started. You can tell from the residual left in the threading that it had some sort of adhesive and I just man handled it out

I didn't know about that site. I really want to do a full refurnishing from them. But now I have do to whatever the trips command. Comment for me so you can win before someone suggests a slant cut dildo.
Glad you didn't win because I have heard mostly negative reviews on black horse tac stocks.

Sounds like you got it, but just for future reference: the metal will expand, but the area with the most material will expand more. Likewise it will contract in cold more too. It seems like the thinner metal would change more, but it doesn't. This applies to everything, I've found this knowledge useful in my life so I hope it does you well.

Appreciate it my brother

12” black dildo

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