A jack of all trades. Something for combat, survival, and anything in between. Send your designs of what you would choose. Include materials and other specs if you like. I would go with something like pic related
If you only had one knife
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Ka-Bar Becker Kukri
Pros:
>1095 Cro-Van steel
>18 3/4 in. Overall length
>Handle scales are interchangeable and nearly indestructable
Cons:
>Sheath is garbage
Good thing kydex is cheap and a sheath is simple enough to make
Fallkniven f1
ESEE 6
Bump
pic related
>Been used in the aesthetic as fuck renaissance and late middle ages
>long enough to keep Jamal at bay whilst bleaching his negress
>technically still a knife
>lets you fuck with your local lord and the low low price of being a fucking legendary landsknecht
>will scare your enemies and make Jamal offer up his tight boipussi to you before he's even able to unholster his hi-point
Can't beat 'em.
like this but with a blade thats 20-24 inches instead of 31
This retarded brick
Bowie knife duh
250DKK jesus christ might have to pick one of those up for shits and giggles
It's fuckhueg and thicc. The steel is alright, for the price.
>combat, survival, and anything in between
Probably a hatchet
Honestly? A chef's knife.
If we're talking "one knife for all tasks" I can't imagine anything more important than cooking, and thus far everything posted is nearly worthless for that. I cook multiple times a day, every day. It's a lot more rare than that I need a knife for some other purpose. And a cook's knife makes a much better combat knife than a combat knife makes a cook's knife.
Jesus fuck this thread is cringe
An opinel #7 thru #12 (depending on preference) would do 99% of the work you would ever need to do in your entire life.
some kind of 4-5" blade s30v hunting style knife of reputable manufacture with decent grip
do i win?
Opinels are worthless for cooking. No knuckle clearance, shitty profile.
they're good pocketknives tho.
Have fun sharpening s30v forever when you get a chip in the blade
Good point, which is why I have a nice set of cooking knives too.
But I thought the thread was more of a "if you could only have one knife" for EDC or 'inna-woods' or whatever, in which case this thread is filled with overly large, over priced, mall ninja shit.
There is no reason to pay $100+ on a folder, or even a lot of fixed blades, when opinel exsists. My #12 does everything in the field that any other knife can do for a fraction of the cost. Also, carbon steel blades are dope and hold an edge forever if you don't abuse it.
I know you think my knife choice is shit but here's the deal with a knife like this you don't actually have to cut anything because just racking the slide is enough to scare shit into cutting itself.
real question, what would it chip on? Primary uses would be cleaning game and kitchen duties.
I absolutely respect a tough high carbon blade for and other steels for their task jobs. Not afraid to use some of my knives to pry and cut things I shouldnt. It's just if I only get one knife I need something to do what another tool couldnt which is separate hide and cut meat quickly.
Id probably carry a flat nose screwdriver and pliers for daily use since I could deal with most things using them with enough force. The knife would be reserved for its job.
S30v chips out constantly. It micro chips like crazy. It is a great knife steel for other reasons.
>A jack of all trades. Something for combat, survival, and anything in between.
Combat. So spear, drop or clip point. Something you can stab with. Quick and to the point. Also tough enough to be abused. So no folders, partial tang.
Survival. So no super steels. Nothing overly hard and brittle. A bend is preferred to a chip here, and being able to maintain an edge simply is preferable to long lasting edges and "stainless" steels.
Anything in between. So food preparation, cutting cardboard, rope, other daily stuff?
So no thick coatings that come off on food, no overly thick blades, no cloth absorbent style handles or slippery plastics.
>sounds like you are looking for a drop point 5" knife in a 10xx steel with a decent heat treat with no coating, full tang and permanently affixed wooden or better material handles.
So pic related but in 1095 with different handle material.
Just 10 Mora Robust
didnt know this, thanks for not being rude and just telling me user
Why a different handle? Micarta is like the best material, it's gripy even when wet and it dries fast enough for it not to be an issue, durable as fuck, it absorbs shook decently well, and it wears well.
I had a Ontario Blackbird, it's a nice knife, but not with out issues. Notably despite the FFG, it had a really bad edge geometry out of box (as to be expected with Ontario) and it has by far the lest ergonomic handle I've ever used on a $100+ knife.
Also if you do with a carbon steel, you want a coating, in some climates it may not be an issue, but in a lot it will. Something like a DLC coating is almost more durable than the steel, but expensive, even cheaper Teflon coatings reduce maintenance a lot of and will not "come off on food".
Stainless steel is not what it used to be. Over all IMO the best all around still is CPM-3V, its a semi-stainless, and expensive, but strong as fuck, easy to sharpen, and has very good edge stability.
s30v with a half decent heat treat is easy to sharpen and as far as high end stainless steels go does not have a chipping problem. It's not ideal for a larger heavy duty knife, but for a smaller food prep/carving knife it's a great steel.
The "oh boy high end stainless steel is hard to sharpen" is a complete meme and should not be a factor imo when considering what knife to buy. If you can competently sharpen a Kabar, or run of the mill 10XX carbon, or any cheap 440a, 440c Aus8a, (x)Cr(x)MoV, 420hc, ect.. Then you can handle s30v, s35vn, n690, ect... just fine, it may just take a bit longer because of the higher wear resistance and often higher hardness of more premium heat treats that come with higher end steels. Honestly I've had more problems with near/semi stainless steels like D2.
UNLESS it's a true super meme steel, like CPM-M4, ZPD-189, CPM-11v, S90/110V, ect... And even those are not much worse to sharpen until they get up past 62ish HRC.
I started to read what you wrote and just stopped because you are clearly talking out your retarded probably 17 year old ass. Sharpening S30V requires more than a simple stone. As it chips out it is also takes time and more than a little time and a river rock. So no, it isn't good for survival. Among many reasons. As far as the handle material it is absorbent. Food prep. Fish. Deer. No, it is a poor handle choice.
If I had a dollar for every asshole with a sharp maker and expensive diamond stones with guides that shows up with a "supersteel" including S30V and just ends up with a rounded dull mess by the end I would be ritch as fuck.
glock brand glock
Knives are just like guns there are shoppers and shooters(or cutters) shoppers like to research and compare a bunch of minutiae while shooters/cutters are shooting cutting things. Basic bitch steels like 1095 and 440c have been getting shit done forever and will continue to do so with minimum fuss.
Beat me to it m8, SK-5 is the GOAT
>clearly talking out your retarded probably 17 year old ass
Sure your right, I would not know a sharp edge from the handle attached to it, but,what's this? Pic related is a CTS-XHP blade that I sharpened. XHP is in the same class as s30v but is known for being a little harder to sharpen. Well shucks, I bet despite the mirror polished bevel I bet it's actually dull.
>requires more than a simple stone
Wrong, what would make you think this? Who told you this? I normally sharpen with Diamond/ceramic stones, with a guided angle set up, but I can do the same on my water stones or run of the mill whet stones. They still cut the steel, why would they not cut s30v? One only really needs diamond stones for blades that are like 65hrc+ and even then you can use a whet stone it would just take a long time and wear the stone a lot. You only NEED diamond from Ceramic blades. And you can get decent diamond stones that are easy to pack and not super expensive.
More so, why do you need to sharpen your knife in the field? Unless you are /out for like a couple weeks, a knife made of a good steel, with a good heat treatment, that is properly sharpened, and not abused, will last. At most you could bring a strop to touch it up every day or two.
A lot of people think they need to constantly sharpen their knife because they are doing it wrong in the first place. People just raise a burr, And mistakenly think "that feels sharp" and leaves it their with out apexing (aka actually sharpening it), and the burr dulls almost instantly with use.
>So no, it isn't good for survival
Why it's such a popular material for high end out door knives? People specifically like it for wet use because it does not get slippery.It's easy to clean off in a stream or lake, or when you get home. Sure gets dirty and it's not going to pass kitchen health regulations, but who cares? And more so Micarta can be polished so it's just like hard wood (less grip though) like Bark River Knives.
>"supersteel" including S30V
Opinion thrown out. S30V is just the level of steel of what good knives should be made out of. It's the 1095 and 420hc of this century. It was a "super steel" over 15 years ago.
These god damn boomers man, it's not the 1970's any more. Tecnology has moved on, not just for 'these darn smart phones' but metallurgy as well.
If you can't get s30 v sharp with a simple stone set you don't deserve S30v and should stick to 420hc and pull through.
got these babies in the other day
im probably going to get a yellow hawk custom kydex sheath made for the elchete then put a benchmade 200 on a piggyback rig with a SERE survival pouch, a ferro rod and diamond sharpener with a suunto compass, all this in a baldric carry because its gonna be a big bitch.
Come back when you have the experience to back up somebody else's opinion that just fell out of your mouth.
This is what a shopper looks like. Have you been to the woods bro? That shit looks fucking heavy.
Your move atheists
>be innajungle
>swampass in my eyelids
>haven't been able to get resupplied due to hidden anti-air and Monsoons
>been awake 48 hours due to a mix of skirmishes with the insurgents, the screams of the dying, and being constantly cold due to the rain
>at least I have my chef's knife.
>it can't chop branches
>it can't fit my rifle
>it rusts when its humid
>the edge dulls against frog hair
>but I can make a mean California roll with it
of course i am, i collect knives. its my hobby people on this board share doesn't mean i cant use them. not that much different in weight than a hatchet.
No the user you are making fun of but If you sharpen it to a 18- 20° angle I don't see why you cannot have it handle some rough and tumble. And most chef knives are some kind of stainless so rusting wouldn't be an issue anyway. I wouldn't baton or hack with it but it should be fine for most anything else that needs a sharp edge
Soft hands of a fatass that never goes out. The gnawed on fingernails of someone with an undiagnosed or at least untreated mental illness. Knives that are sharpened on special stones, with guides and diamonds to a polish all that look like they have never seen any actual use. You haven't a fucking clue.
This is a dirt cheap knife sharpened in the field while teaching skillsets. It was sharpened and maintained with a small basic pocket stone. I've seen a thousand fags like you. You show up and have no clue what tue fuck is going on. You start whacking on the spine of the knife like a retard. You get a piece of sharpening kit taken away and you are lost. Wet ground? Lost. Stay in your mommy's basement and shut the fuck up before you hurt yourself. Also, go on a fucking diet.
Go outside you fucking loser.
Damn, don’t cut your self on all that edge, that’s probably the sharpest one you’re used to.
>hurr durr field sharpening
You don’t need that if you don’t have shit knives and aren’t shit at sharpening in the first place. I’m not hiking the AT, I’m not a high speed low drag operator in space, I carry a knife for EDC and camping. I can sharpen it at my house and use it for a week with just some stropping, even good 1095 knives can do this.
This all stems from the fact that you have not practiced enough to consistently sharpen a simple steel like s30v, if you can’t do that then you clearly lack the basic understanding and practice to properly even sharpen a 1095 knife. News flash, being able to kind of scrape hair off your arm is not sharp.
If anyone takes a a couple hours to practice, they could sharpen a s30v blade on a red brick and coffee mug, it would not be pretty, but one could get a working edge out of it. Regardless of what you use to sharpen, even guys who normally use set angle set ups, should be able to do this because they at lest understand the concept of burr to burr. All the fancy stones that seem to trigger you are just for getting stupid sharp edges that easily repeatable and consistently polished.
Knife swap reddit fag
Whats that knife on the left? Tops, esee?
Cause I think what OP was trying to say what this is the only thing you got. No axe no nothing. So its gotta have SOME chopping ability, more than a standard hunting knife
You have zero worthwhile experience. You haven't a clue what the OP you are commenting to is let alone what you are talking about.
You don't hike. You do not camp. I imagine you do not even carry a knife every day. From the looks of your knives you do not use them. You have the usual mall ninja fat ass Becker. You may have whacked that through some pre dried pine before you consumed a weeks worth of calories in one sitting. Nothing says knife expert like an asshole with a pile of knives that have been used once carried three times. Keep rambling on retard. I love it when assholes like you get tossed a 5 dollar "puck" sharpener and you fuck up your gear after 3 days.
TOPS Bushcrafter Kukri
Most "super steels" have a bunch of vanadium carbides in them. These are much harder than most other carbides and the aluminum oxide that most stones are made of.
You can technically sharpen them but the carbides don't get ground down along with the rest of the steel. Instead the stone will remove the surrounding steel until the carbides tear off.
without using harder abrasives you'll end up with weaker edge due to having a bunch of microscopic craters.
Not him, they are both Tops.
That picture of your attempt at sharpening has removed any doubts in my mind. Your shit at sharpening and angry that you are too lazy to practice the basics. That phot shows a stunning lack of control, the scratch pattern in non existent along with you angle control, I see burrs at some point and rolls at others, and I doubt the microbevel was intentional. And not to mention I hope that knife has seen at lest ten years of good use because that’s how much material you have taken off.
I’m not at all surprised to hear you say you use a AX sharpening puck for your knife, because it looks like it. For fucks sake get a finner stone, like the Norton Indian stone, they are cheap.
I never claimed to be an expert or commando, I don’t beat my knives into trees, I use an ax. I use my knives for normal EDC, why should they look beat to shit if I don’t intentionally beat them up for no reason and clean them from time to time? And unsurprisingly you are wrong about the Bk in that photo, it’s a Bk-15, it’s decently thin, it’s not a BK-2. I tend towards medium to thinner geometry knives, and always reprofile to 15ish dps.
You don’t know shit about me except that I have knives, know how to sharpen, and don’t have twink hands. I don’t claim to be some sort of paramilitary or operorator like you are/ seem to think you are.
Your whole aregument comes down to
>s30v is impossible to sharpen in the field
And my claim is your just shit at sharpening. Which is abondently clear by that photo.
A custom made puukko in Harma style.
Blade - 13 cm long, scandi or convex, nice and simple carbon steel, like 1095 or U8
Handle - brass cast details, painted curly birch handle.
Sheath - leater, wood, wide belt loop.
History has proven the worth of Harma puukko for combat during the 19th century Puukkounkkari era and multiple cases of similar knives being used all over Russia and northern Europe until the end of WWII.
Yes but this is talking about super high carbid (blade) steels like CPM-M4 and ZPD-189, s30v with a normal HT for the most part can be sharpened on any normal stone. Correct?
But once again though, if you are just getting a stone to sharpen your knife and not as a hobby, there are plenty of okay cheaper diamond options.
>can't stab with them
Into the trash they go
pic related because any other answer is gay and autism.
They look stabby stabby to me user
>>can't stab with them
You can but its harder.
>pic related
Looks good but a lil bit long.
I like mine but I want something for /out/
Forgot the pic
>hand slips forward because of sweat/blood and you cut yourself
nice choice
>hand slips forward because of sweat/blood
This, looks like a knife for dinner and thats it
This is the best choice. The bayonet is good for both stabbing and cutting, it's long enough so you can outrange faggots with small knives, you can also turn it into a spear to fight wild animals.
It's not the best at cutting wood, but that's a small drawback.
had one. a bit too small. would recc the S1 though
>tries to rag on a free hand field sharpen.
Lol. This is what I know about you. You have high blood pressure. You do not do any manual labor. You do not lift weights or exercise in any meaningful way. You don't understand the makeup of S30V. You have a untreated mental illness.
You have a severe comprehension issue.
You have have knives as a "status symbol". You have no actual use for them nor do you know how to properly use them. You are in your 20s. You still live at home. You have no practical applicable life skills whatsoever.
You are larping as a man.
Your opinion is just an empty echo. There is no experience to back it.
>muh hand slips
What's it like, being a faggot who is not taught how to use his knife and has to depend on handguard?
>for dinner
No, for dinner goes the smaller one, called junki. The big one is for other utility tasks, such as wood carving or stabbing people you don't like.
Again, finns have been using those for centuries.
>how to use his knife and has to depend on handguard
A good edge cuts your fingers down. Sure, stabby stabby with dat shit
>he doesn't know that blood will make his hand slippery
If you actually manage to stab someone with the faggot toy knife, which I doubt, the next time you stab him your hand is gonna slip forward and you're gonna cut yourself, weaboo trash or whatever the fuck you are.
My hand is going slip forward into your mom's cunt you fag.
adult hands with a kids mind :3
Who this fuck is stabbing anyone? Combat knives are glorified utility knives, get a gun.
>more autistic version of a weaboo is mad
Go screech somewhere else twat
>A good edge cuts your fingers down
And a good handle, skill of holding and strong hands help you keeping away from the edge.
>that blood will make his hand slippery
Actually blood is quite sticky. Try to cut yourself.
>faggot toy knife,
Tell that to those guys.
> the next time you stab him your hand is gonna slip forward
t. has no idea about how to hold a knife and how much blood comes out of stab wounds
Just rewatch "Surviving edged weapons", especially the part where they discuss the influence of a cutting and stabbing wounds.
>weaboo trash
Pfffft, cry some more, fgt
Hihi, for 1 naifu challenge naifu-Chan choose cold steel trailmaster in carbon steel. Very useful naifu and leather sheath is decent.
>Actually blood is quite sticky. Try to cut yourself.
Haha, not fresh and warm blood. Its more slippery than water and water makes problems (sometimes)
Blood is slippery you fucking moron. Man, this board sure is full of retards, finnaboos are probably some of the worst.
youtube.com
Seriously, when will this ever be reliveant? The chance of using a CC gun in self defense is almost negligible, the chance of using a knife and the fight lasting long enough for the blood be a factor might as well be zero.
And I’m honestly curious, anyone know when the last time a soilder actually needed up needing to use their knife as a weapon?
Stop watching so much Anime
>Blood is slippery
This, thats one reason I made this thread . CFK is slippery AF when flat and I dont like this weakness on a EDC knife
Bayonets were used until at least WW2 and are actually good at killing people unlike Finnish ornamental toast knives with shitty handles.
>the last time a soilder actually needed up needing to use their knife as a weapon
user is a soilder ? WTF
No doubt
>it's more slippery than water
Never noticed, they're equally slippery to me.
>water makes problems
Ancient finns weren't complete retards to make their knives out of the materials that might slip out of the hand.
>finnaboos
But russians were quite fond of puukkos as well.
>all the bloody hands
Again, the stab wound doesn't let that much of the blood out.
Speaking of guardless knives, majority of knives of Italy and Spain that were used in the dueling had no guards at all or had small decorative ones (like the ones on Maniago switchblades). And spanish fighters were all about slashing moves.
>nd I’m honestly curious, anyone know when the last time a soilder actually needed up needing to use their knife as a weapon?
Probably, somewhere in Iraq or Chechnya, when soldiers are cleaning up the close quarters. In that case what's needed is not a universal hunting tool (the aforementioned puukko), but a tough combat knife, like AK bayonet or Glock 78.
Again, most of the people use knives not for stabbing the shit out of each other but for doing utility tasks. And the topic of the thread is "which knife would you like to own if that was the only blade you may own" - thus it makes the puukko, the utility knife with no guard, a perfect choice.
>anime
What's that with anime in this thread? Seriously. Anime is all about sword worshipping, not knife wanking.
>are actually good at killing people unlike Finnish ornamental toast knives with shitty handles.
Proofs on puukkos being bad?
and these adult hands are going to punch your mom's uterus.
I'll screech inside your mother's cunt you fag.
>en.wikipedia.org
>was a term used of troublemakers
So KFC is a modern fightclub ?
Lol he mad
That's a fucking cool story, I'm not gonna lie.
>ywn be a pukkojunkkari young rebel stabbing people left and right, stealing shit and fucking bitches
Why even live bros ?
Ah, your ideal LARP knife? i was thinking about this just a few months ago and reached the opinion that a large bowie was my personal choice, and in my opinion one of the best knives ever made for such a task.
>large neutral handle allows effectively any combat grip you could want, infact mine is so large that i can use a hand and a half grip if i feel like it.
>relatively neutral blade design great for thrust or cut
>large and well built cross guard makes parrying a legitimate tactic, unlike with an unguarded knife
>same guard prevents your hand from sliding up on the blade when wet
>designed to be usable with modified cut-thrust sword fighting tactics of the day
>clip point can be sharpened to allow for back cutting
>thick enough to be abused to hell and back(original spec is .25") without fear of breaking
>same weight allows for devastating hacking/slashing attacks, period reports of them nearly amputating limbs are floating around
It was the most technologically advanced and enlightened period in human history where a large fighting/utility knife was widely desired and truly put through their paces on a regular basis, and the bowie was king for good reason. Best paired with a small companion knife for detail work, although with proper technique and patience its surprising what you can accomplish with a big chopper.
full kukri kit
>inb4 that's 3 knives
CFK Battle Shark would do well enough.
The tang is shit.
>large neutral handle
That's one of the shittiest, if not the shittiest, handles you could possibly have. It's just straight wood with no grooves whatsoever, it's probably slippery as fuck.
>relatively neutral blade
Not as neutral as a long bayonet.
>thick enough to be abused to hell and back(original spec is .25") without fear of breaking
Weight makes it harder to turn into a spear head.
I would pick a bayonet for fighting other than that it's a good pick, better for bushcraft.
>when you walk into a thread specifically about combat knives and start whining about how using a knife for combat is unrealistic
Whew.
>it's probably slippery as fuck.
One downside to that particular knife, definitely deserves wrapping or replacement with something like micarta.
>Not as neutral as a long bayonet.
what? a bayonet isn't a neutral blade design, it clearly favors the thrust and they were rarely sharp enough for the cut let alone chopping...
>Weight makes it harder to turn into a spear head.
Fighting knife user, not fighting spear.
>I would pick a bayonet for fighting other than that it's a good pick, better for bushcraft.
>2k19
>unironic bayonet posting
>thinking bowies excel at bushcraft
>thinking a bayonet is a neutral blade design
Opinion discarded.
>this is not a more neutral blade than your bowie
What are you smoking ? It's a pretty fucking neutral design, it's good for stabbing and if you sharpen it it's good for cutting as well, it's a straight blade, no weird shapes.
>Fighting knife user, not fighting spear.
This thread is for fighting, survival and anything in between. Check yourself before you wreck yourself. Spear is better for survival.
>2k19
>unironic bowie posting
Go back to the wild west, faggot.
>thinking bowies excel at bushcraft
Thick blade makes it better than bayonet, nothing I said was wrong. Stop being a faggot.
Back in like 2015 or 16, about 20ish British soldiers did over a 500 foot bayonet charge. They stabbed like 20 ppl.
Bayonet wins again, rangelets literally can not compete.
>inb4 b-b-but muh slashing
I would like to see how you faggots handle a bayonet cut to the neck.