Old thread hit the bump limit. Post the first milsurp you bought for yourself. Hard mode: no Mosins.
Optional thread discussion questions:
>Any new purchases in your near future?
>Any good finds lately?
>Any 'surp related literature that you recommend?
Doing first hand surp. Picking up
a snub nose no 2 enfield this week.
Before the grand fuckaround that was all the stuff that happened to him last summer, I spoke with him on the phone a few times, and exchanged some emails. He...seems difficult to communicate with, but damned if I don't want to go out and see all the stuff in those buildings. Everyone I've talked to says he's a nice enough guy in person.
I've talked to a few people on Gunboards who are locals. Scuttlebutt around there is that IF it gets packed up to move, it's all going to Florida. They seem to doubt it though.
If Springfield Sporters reopens for summer showroom hours, we should organize an /msg/ meetup.
>Mfw the first surp I bought was a mosin
First non mosin surp I bought was my k31, already had inherited a few before that. I just bought a Type 38, should be here next week. No surp plans for the future though, I've gotta save money and space for a big move.
>goodbye bench
My first surp was a Long Branch No4. Bought it for about 175 iirc.
Bought this in 2006 for 300€. Not matching and I think the stock comes from a M48 but I still like it.
Now saving money to buy a Berthier shortboi like the great-grandp had in WW1
>I think the stock comes from a M48
no, Kar98k stocks are not interchangeable with M48 stocks. the Yugo's action is shorter
your stock is mid to late war
First was a bulgie mak for $250 from sweatimus benisumus. Recently got a CMP Garand and have no idea what these markings on the stock mean.
Nice. I’ve got a wartime production Albion-made No2. Double action only kinda sucks, but it’s a soft shooter and fun for range days.
Yeah a lot of surp DA pulls are ass, but like you say they’re fun shooters
>Anus Destroyer Man
You're a superhero now. Congrats
So can I only go for crippling ass shots, or what?
Is the guy trying to fix a SMLE here? If so, the band screws for a No4 mk1 will fit the SMLE but they have larger heads
Vs the correct screw
He was asking for the other way around I believe, but I'd imagine since they fit this way they'll fit opposite.
I haven't really bought anything new, but I should really get a new Type 38.
Not all SMLEs are alike. The Australians used a different threads, and for the British in later rebuilds there were some screws armorers could retap for the newer threads. It's a whole mess. Parts shouldn't be interchanged between the 2 models.
First gun ever was my SKS. Bought it for myself out of bootcamp.
1869/71 Swiss vetterli was my first long surp
1889 Italian Bodeo was my first hand surp
This guy is tryng to put a sporterized one back to original, so he is going to need to give it a shot.
Best to stick to the proper screws.
No1 rifles used the old Enfield thread standards while No4s were after standardization and used more readily available threads for most parts. While close enough there is the risk of damage to the threads if the wrong screws re used. There are a couple guys who make correct screws for pretty much any British rifle if rignals can;t be found.
About a decade ago when Sweaty Ben was still selling them for $100.
First surp I bought by myself was my M48A (see pic related) this past summer. There was still cosmoline on the bolt when I got it. Now I'm waiting to go back home for spring break to haggle down a P14 at my hometown LGS. What do you consider a good deal for a P14 with an excellent bore and all matching (no volley sights or stock disc though)? Also, do certain manufacturers command a premium or should they all be roughly the same?
>Post the first milsurp you bought for yourself.
Czech/Turkish Mauser Vz.98/22. Bought at an auction July 30th, 2012 for $190.
Not milsurp but I think asking here would be best because you guys all have old guns and my question is about an old gun.
I’ve got an old Spanish revolver with Spanish proofs dating it to 1929-1931. Unlike a lot of Spanish guns it has an actual makers mark, an actual model number with a logo for the model, and the correct caliber marked on the gun (.38 S&W Special). Externally it looks like a S&W Hand Ejector but internally it more resembles a Colt. The gun is in nice shape for its age and the cylinder locks up tight when the hammer is falling. If it was an actual S&W I’d have no problems shooting it, but it being Spanish I’m kind of afraid to because of horror stories about potmetal Spanish guns exploding. Is there a way to determine if it’s safe to fire without having to pay a smith to look it over?
Pot metal Spanish guns exploding is largely a meme. Do you have pictures of the makers mark?
Fire it from 20 feet away with a string.
Not on hand, the only pic I have of it on my phone is this one
This blog has some pics and info of the same gun though, mine is in much nicer shape than his is: tincanbandit.blogspot.com
Anyone ever hunt with your Surplus? I was thinking of taking my 03A3, P17 or Type 99 out hunting Javelinas? They arent too bad to carry and i think my only problem would be the 400 yard zero on my P17.
>Any new purchases in your near future?
More WW1 service rifles.
>Any good finds lately?
Pic related.
Yes, I take my surps out to get coyote, turns out .303 drops them well.
>1895
Speaking of new purchases, could the resident arisaka genius tell me about this rifle? Bolt matches, and I think the dust cover is a repro but I am curious about year and series.
thats a k98 stock, m48 stocks never had that buttstock side plate and the cutout for the bend bolt.
Is $650 a good deal on a National Ordnance Garand built in the 80s?
Comes with the ultimak rail which I could possibly sell for some cash back if I feel inclined.
First milsurp was probably a nugget of some sort. Or maybe a police trade in model 10 if that counts.
Nice my pasta brother.
I'm going to hit a half dozen guns shows in my state and the surrounding ones in the next few days. Will report back with my findings and potential purchases.
Hoping to pick up something especially spicy
I fired about 30 rounds out of a Spanish copy of a Browning Baby 25 Auto.
It wouldn't chamber at first, requiring me to smack the slide until it went in, but it fired just fine. Split the first case, but when we switched to PPU 25 Auto it shot just fine.
The reason I only shot 30 rounds was because the extractor exploded out the side of the gun and I couldn't find it.
Worked out a deal for the 8x50R Steyr M95 I posted in the last thread. Based on a few more photos he sent me, I believe this rifle was in Polish inventory before being sold to the Republicans in the Spanish Civil War. He wants $300.00 for it.
What's the consensus on these Zastava M57s? Never had much interest in Tokarevs, but I've always regretted not buying a hand nugget when they were cheap so not missing another boat.
It was a red nine. Later I got an RC K98, K31, CG63, and an EG Mak.
$300 is pretty good for a longboi M95.
Aye. It's not as nice as yours, but I think it's a decent enough price. I'll probably give it a good cleaning (not bubba, don't try to put that on me), and then I'll have to see if I want to load for it and keep it, or sell it.
What grade garand did you get? Are you happy with the condition? I just sent for a service grade.
Want to get an sks but am poorfag
Series 26 Nagoya. Made in approximately 1933-1940. Assuming even production numbers in that period, a 48k range gun would be right around 1937 or 1938.
Mine has developed the habit of spontaneously disassembling after about 500 rounds. The extractor sheared off after another 100 or so. It's a good $
>get a MAS 49/56 in .308
>hear all the memes about how they never work, blah blah blah
>turns out it shoots just as accurate as my PING
>never once has it had an issue
>even runs Tula shit just fine with zero problems
This is the third time I've bought a "Century" gun that has performed flawlessly. I'm starting to think all the shit I see online about guns is Fuddlore just like the exploding Arisakas.
Is $1000 for a Ljungman a good deal?
Catch: it has a hideous bubba paint job, but is otherwise in good mechanical condition
Run far away and never look back. The butt is also fucked with some sort of rubber bubba pad.
Get back to me in a few weeks when you need to fix your headspace and get a new firing pin. I'll be waiting
We heard you the last 6 threads man. Good for you, nobody cares.
My first was a P64 but I really have no use for it. It’s heavier than necessary for carrying and the double action trigger is too heavy. I also have a CZ82 that I’m not to keen on. I think I’ll sell them both to partly fund a biathlon rifle.
>All the meme of a milsurp without the magic of a dead cartridge
>want to get poorfag: the milsurp but am poorfag
Big hmmm
>spontaneous disassembly after a laughably low round count
>can be improved by ripping parts out with pliers
Peak slav
Thank you friendo. Can't wait to join in on the arisaka posting.
Last I checked there's zero headspace issues. Not to mention MUH HEADSPACE is another Fuddlore thing to a degree. Yes, headspace can be an issue, but it takes a REALLY bad situation for it to actually matter. The firing pin has no problems either, and they're $5 to replace anyway.
>whines about something being repeated
>tripfags and posts the same images over and over
I'm confused. You don't even contribute anything here besides posting the same images I've seen at least a dozen times.
>You don't even contribute anything here besides posting the same images I've seen at least a dozen times
Fair point.
I took a new picture just for you
Counter-point:
>tfw no spaghetti gun
I'm still trying to find one of the 8mm converted ones in nice condition, but they never seem to show up.
A like new SKS for $79.
Service grade and completely happy with it. 1944 Springfield barrel and bolt, IHC trigger group, Korean era stock. 1 for muzzle wear, 2 for throat. Hardly any pitting that I can find, you’ll be very happy.
I just wish I knew what this ADM means. It’s got a rack number on the bottom of the grip and “003” on the other side of yh stock.
Here’s some more of my surp. A 1943 Enfield No2 and a 1969 Type 56. The P38 is also a 1969, though as as I can tell it’s just a civilian model. P07 and Uberti Cattleman included because I’m away from home and it’s the only picture I’ve got of it all in one place.
thats a proper k98 stock. m48 stock and handguards have cutouts in different places and are not compatible with k98, not to mention yugos never used laminate wood and yours has the proper scallop for the bolt knob. did you have doubts about it being german because of no markings? the russians and yugos sometimes sanded off all the swastikas and german marks. also if you are a europoor in germany, they probably had enough self hatred to deface any nazi marks on guns they were allowed to keep
my pajeet enfield looks like this. typical pajeets using whatever screws they felt like
you were in the service?
very good quality taste, similar looking collection to mine. 10/10,definitely would be friends with in real life
no, CMP sells USGI ones for that price
>Comes with the ultimak rail
you can already tell its been abused and comes from an irresponsible owner. i would stay away
Sell that booty.
SKS isn't quite so poorfag these days. You can get an AR for less.
I'm pretty sure the guy I bought my Vz. 24 from had one for sale.
>>Any new purchases in your near future?
It's technically not surp but a repro, but I'm thinking of getting some nice flintlock. Not sure which, maybe a 1777 Pattern.
>>Any good finds lately?
Schmidt-Rubin 96/11
>>Any 'surp related literature that you recommend?
None, sorry.
I was just thinking today about how there were five (six if you count Luxembourg) distinct 6.5mm calibers that were service cartridges in WW1.
6.5x52mm Carcano
6.5x50mmSR Arisaka
6.5x53mmR Mannlicher
6.5x54mm Mannlicher-Schoenauer
6.5x58mm Vergueiro
(6.5x55mm Swedish)
6.5 is ballistically superior, there's not a lot of reason to use something else.
Agreed. 6.5 or 7mm are best (for infantry).
The metal parts have markings. I'm not sure about the stock because I remember the previous owner told me it wasn't the original one, but I guess it's still legit anyway, just not matching. Good to know
Bidding on a finnish mosin in the $400 range. It's about to end and I'm not winning. Wondering if I should let it go.
What kind of finish mosin? Is it pretty? Matching? Do you really want it? Personally, if it were an M39 or I really wanted it I would take it a little higher
that looks like a Gew 98 length Kar98k
what is it?
Sako m39 1944. Pretty but with a chip in the stock
interesting thing to note user, I bought a RC K98 and all the eagles are intact but the original BYF on the barrel band has been sanded rather than the eagles/swastikas
one country started it, it worked better than everyone else, and everyone copied it. even though we know 6.3mm is ballistically superior
Can anybody here provide some insight into their experience ordering a Garand from the CMP? I know it's possible it can take a long time, and that's fine. But I sent my order form in through the mail from NY exactly 2 weeks ago and I still haven't gotten an order form confirmation. Is there any cause for concern?
Nvm gunbroker just got retarded and bidded it up
400 is pretty great for any Finn except maybe a bog standard M91. Even then it's not bad.
>one country started it
And that country is Italy (though the Swiss experimented with 6.5s first I believe).
The Italians also probably fielded the first "intermediate" cartridge. Pic related.
>gunbroker.com
Good price still.
Why is it that this guy always has shit I want?
He's in New York, which means there's a LOT of people around for him to buy from.
Pic related, got it from him.
you can tell if you take the barreled action out of the stock, look inside the stock channel near where the handguards are, and there will be a serial number stamped there into the wood by teh germans
they were being processed by the millions, and you can imagine the lack of motivation when you are working in a communist country for bread crumb lines. i have a russian capture with all markings intact, ive seen ones where they deface the swastika only on one side, ones where teh stock wasnt shellacked, only parts of the metal was refinished, some ep parts, theres all sorts of disparities in their work
hes one of the bigger dealers of C&R stuff but id be careful when dealing with him, hes been known to pass off fakes as the real thing and other shady practices. im surprised a gun dealer would opt to stay in NY but hey he must love his paperwork
>40784615
here, perfect example of him being a liar and a cheater
>Metal finish is excellent Swedish arsenal reblue. Bore is bright and excellent with strong rifling. Stock was Swedish arsenal refinished
personally i would never buy something from him just on principle, he is a fucker
>tfw 1894 Carcano
He's also known to still bid on stuff and buy on GunBroker only to instantly relist stuff he bought for less.
We talking about old guns now?