.22lr Recommendations

Does Jow Forums have any good recommendations for a good .22lr handgun? I am looking for a good gun to practice handgun marksmanship more affordably. I have several handguns of various calibers that I shoot regularly but nothing in .22lr that I can plink the day for cheap.

I have heard both good and bad things about the walther p22, ruger sr22, ruger mark I-IV etc. I have also seen glock conversion kits that seem ok but very ammo picky.

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Just buy a Mark IV. You'll end up with one eventually anyway so just skip buying whatever else you are thinking of getting first.

Ruger Mark IV.

The only problem with the Mark III was that it was a pain in the ass to disassemble. Mark IV fixed that. Get one with a threaded barrel so you can put a suppressor on it some day if you feel like it.

S&W 22 Victory

Ruger Mark series, Browning buckmark, or Smith and Wesson sw22 victory are all good

if its a replica of a "real" pistol its barely functional ammo picky garbage. if it was designed to be a 22 its good. simple as that.
p22 shit
ruger sr 22 and mk series good
conversion kits are all mediocre and youd be much better off buying a separate real 22 pistol for 300-500 than you would be paying 200-300 for a slide.

Isnt the sr22 a copy of the p22 with some small modifications?

Ruger Mark IV is the way to go. Very reliable and lots of aftermarket accessories.

>Isnt the sr22 a copy of the p22 with some small modifications?
not at all
the sr22 was designed from the ground up to be a 22. thats why its good. theres no 9mm/45acp that looks like a sr22,

Any new or used ruger mark series or 22/45.
You cannot go wrong unless you buy a clapped out mark I.

Almost all .22 kits and .22s made to look like existing centerfire guns are unreliable or self-damaging. Almost all of them. The CZ Kadet, S&W M&P .22 Compact (NOT the full size) and Walther PPQ .22 are a few exceptions but generally, stay away.

The S&W Victory, 22A Ruger Mark, SR22 and Buckmark are good options but be aware that ALL .22s can malfunction, there is absolutely not a "most reliable" .22 or a .22 that won't ever malfunction. Most guns that do malfunction will do so less with high velocity ammo.

There are lots of newer guns that are not very popular and so are an unknown quality, like the Beretta and Chiappa M92FS .22s, Grand Power K22, Taurus TX22, Keltec CP33, Steyr RFP and others, so if you're not buying something to have a wierdo hipster gun nobody else has, stick to the known good ones like listed above.

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Don't get a Ruger Mark II or III. They are idiotically designed on the inside and you need to read step by step instructions to reassemble it after cleaning.

Mark IV is probably OK from what I've seen but I like the SW22 Victory. Better sights, trigger, aftermarket, modularity etc.

bro just go with a Jimenez or Phoenix trust me

If you own a CZ then look into the kadet kits. Mine works very well, is very accurate, and i think the practice translates to big boy guns a little bit better as the trigger pull, controls, and a lot of little details are the exact same since it uses the CZ lower.

How you like the Savage FV-SR?
I just picked one up the other day and haven't had a chance to shoot it yet.

>Mark III was that it was a pain in the ass to disassemble
>need to read step by step instructions to reassemble it after cleaning.
Once you do it a couple of times it's literally nothing, quit spreading this myth. Don't undersell the Marks 1-3 because some people (I hope not you two) are mechanically inept butterfingers, they are not difficult to takedown or put back together AT ALL. They're just not as brainless as a Mark IV.

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2nd'ed
I'd give the edge to the MKIV for non-suppressor use, and the buckmark for suppressors. The victory is nice too, but the trigger is god aweful stock.

There's a kit you can buy that lets you disassemble and reassemble them by taking out a single bolt screw.

Worth buying if you've got a Mark II or III.

majesticarms.com/product/speed-strip-mark-iii-and-mark-iii-22-45/

easy there, some people aren't autistic, they just want to pull it apart and clean.
Even Tim from MAC had issues for years with a full disassembly (not a field strip like you did)

Only problem I had was getting the bolt pin in and out of mine. Its a good gun; but I had a hell of a time with that bolt pin, maybe I just needed to lube it better.

theres no way in hell thats a stock mk3

I have a Savage B22 FV-SR, which is sort of a redesigned Mark II and it is a phenomenal bargain for the crazy accuracy it can deliver - consistent nickel size groups at 50 yards.

It's kind of a piece of crap. The trigger is horrid, build quality is borderline bad (but okay), it's not very accurate and it's one of like two .22s I have that's not safe to dry fire, which is recockulous in 2019. Boyd's stocks also have to be inletted in a compromising, weakening way so the accuracy suffers because of that as well. But they're preposterously cheap so all of that's excusable, I think I paid $160 for the rifle NIB (plus stock) and it shoots about 1.5 MOA so it's hard to complain.

That's a waste of money imo since the only thing you need to remember when reassembling a Mark III is to let down the hammer and flip the hammer strut into the mainspring cap before you rock the mainspring housing into place. Everything else is child's play. They're absolutely not difficult to dis/reassemble.

That's a manufacturing error; if the recoil spring guide rod is just a little too long it will bump into the takedown pin when you try to insert it. Ruger will replace the recoil spring guide rod if that's the case, that's not normal behavior.

Full disassembly isn't usual, people are talking about it being difficult or slow to take apart and put together. It's not if you aren't retarded.

It obviously is. I can do mine faster than that, that's user's video he did in the cold where he's shaking and trying to aim things at holes.

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Oops, >That's a waste of money imo since the only thing you need to remember when reassembling a Mark III is to let down the hammer and flip the hammer strut into the mainspring cap before you rock the mainspring housing into place. Everything else is child's play. They're absolutely not difficult to dis/reassemble.
was for

>It obviously is. I can do mine faster than that, that's user's video he did in the cold where he's shaking and trying to aim things at holes.
bullshit stock ones have a mag disconect
and the hammer has to be decocked to take it down.
he doesnt insert and empty mag to dryfire it.
now if you take the mag disconnect out or replace it. that video would be possible but then its not stock.

>t. never touched a mark 3
which part isnt stock noguns?

Well shit, I paid about $350 for a stock one with a kryptek camo stock.
I did buy it as a cheap beater bolt .22 for coyotes, so I wasn't really expecting all that much to begin with.

the part where he dryfires the gun with no magazine inserted

>he didn't even need a non marring mallet to get the mainspring pin out
This is what happens when you base your opinion on a sample size of one.

You're right, I forgot about that, I took mine out day 1 too because frig magazine disconnects.

Well let's blame the Mark III's problems on the magazine disconnect complicating matters then, not the takedown/reassembly procedure because the latter is demonstrably not a problem.

Ouch, the licensing must be redic for the Kryptek pattern, they're not quite as low as I paid but they're deffo still really cheap
gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/28702

I have owned two Mark IIIs, a Mark II and a Paclite. Like I said in a sticky takedown pin is NOT part of the design, it's an overly long recoil spring guide rod that can be fixed in literally 3 seconds with a file. If you want to call that shitty QC you're entitled to, but it's not a problem with the takedown/assembly procedure. So back at you, if your single unit was sticky, it was your sample of 1.

The ONLY tricky part, like I said before, is tilting the hammer strut into the mainspring housing before rocking the housing into the frame.

>Well let's blame the Mark III's problems on the magazine disconnect complicating matters then, not the takedown/reassembly procedure because the latter is demonstrably not a problem.
this is true most of the whole voodoo clusterfuck is having the mag disconnector in the right orientation while you keep other things in the right place.

>mk 3's don't have any disassembly difficulties as long as you exclude all the disassembly difficulties caused by the factory design and frequent QC issues
Whew, looks like we found Burt's other COPE trigger than calling out sig for shitty QC/QA

Now I feel kind of stupid for not thinking of that, that dramatically complicates things.

Good thing it's an easy fix.

Stop shittalking my shillpoints faggot, you're severely depleting my monetization profile.

I have an SW22 victory, only trouble I've ever had is failure to feed when it gets dirty.

Very accurate too

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I have a Mark II. The only part that's tricky is putting the disassembly lever back in. But once you understand the angle you need to hold the gun at it's a piece of cake. All these stories of people struggling with it for an hour are just because they're doing it wrong.

It's almost like when you do something correctly it's not difficult???

track down an old colt woodsman, most accurate .22 pistol I've shot.

pre first and first series are gonna cost a pretty penny, but second and third series get cheaper. And the upside is, as long as you don't bitch it up, it'll always be worth as much or more than you paid for it, provided you don't buy it at idiot pricing

Your picture is literally of the best widely available option for what you're looking for. Its user support and aftermarket stuff is all readily available and decent quality too. I absolutely love mine which is the 'hunter' model, it was pricey but super worth it and one of the most fun to shoot guns I own.

My father just bought a new Walther 22 and it's running flawlessly. I think he got it for around $300. Comfy AF

I am 18 right now and I can only own bolt action rifles, pump guns and single shot pistols till im 21 (then I can litterly buy anything besides full auto, its not impossible to own full auto rifles but you need a good reputation with youre local order office)

Oh sorry I ment to ask what would be a good home defense shotgun thats longer than 60cm (full lenght, cant have retractable stock that reduces the size under 60cm)

Are you USA? You can own any gun at 18 if you're in the USA, you just can't buy them.

I had a Beretta Neos. Was a nice pistol but I just always forgot I owned it. Which I guess makes sense as to why no one talks about them, just sort of forgettable pistols.

I have an AR15 pistol that is a dedicated .22 and not one with the drop in conversion. It's quite a bit of fun.

had one. After a few rounds it would get dirty, the firing pin would stick, and it'd slam fire. Filing down the end of the firing pin and slighty drilling out the firing pin hole fixed that issue.

I ended up selling it to a fine, upstanding gentleman.

I really like my Mark III. What other anons are saying about it being a pain to disassemble is sort of true, in that it really is the only gun I own that I've needed to read the instructions for disassembly / reassembly.

The Mark IV seems like an excellent solution to this.

There's a great aftermarket, quite a few versions to choose from, and it'll outlive you. I eliminated the loaded chamber indicator and the magazine disconnect from mine, huge improvement.

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I have one of those NAA revolvers. That's a fun little toy at the range.

It's fun at the range but that's not what I use it for. It's my casual EDC piece, fort the last 4 years or so.

no

don't get a zinc-alloy firearm. I've had both a Phoenix HP-22A and a Sig Mosquito (also known as GSG Firefly). Running the recommended ammo, both ended up with cracked slides. The HP-22a lasted ~4k rounds, but I was retarded and bought the Mosquito used and got to fire a grand total of 61 rounds before the slide cracked. I suspect that the seller noticed a developing hairline crack that I missed.

Im really liking the beretta 71 with the fake silencer. I took the fake silencer off of course, but if you're feeling autistic you can put it back on and mount a scope on it so you can be a little more precise. Its 1in wide so you can put scope rings or rail clamps on it. The 1inch diameter would probably make it easier to attach some shitty plastic silencers now that I think about it.

Build a P80 Glock lower and use Glock 22LR conversion kit.

literally this whether you buy it straight away or buy 10 guns first you'll always pick the mk iv

Not OP, but I was also planning on the Mk. IV as my first handfun until I saw this show up at Shot Show. Kel-Tec CP33. It has 33 rounds of .22 with a 50 round extension. Full rail and even weight distribution. I know
>leltec
but it looks to be accurate, surprisingly reliable, and also fun from the demo videos posted so far. So should I go for Mk. IV or wait for this?
vid related
youtube.com/watch?v=GOP7pxFZUHo

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I've been messing around with the new Taurus TX22. They actually did a decent job at making a 22 analogue to the modern striker fired pistol. 16 round magazines, decent trigger and reset, disassembles like a Glock, supposedly dry fire safe. They also fixed the mistakes in the SR22, SIG Mosquito, and Walther P22; better materials all around, aluminum, steel bolt face, slide lock engages on the steel slide insert instead of the easier to wear aluminum slide in some shallow notch. I'm about 500 rounds in of Federal copper plated, CCI SV, and Gemtech suppressor 22. No issues so far, suppressed or not. Only issue was typical Taurus fashion of being retards and not knowing what loctite is. Front and rear sight screws came loose. I put them back on properly.

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Have both a Victory and a Buckmark. I prefer the Buckmark, but that’s more of a feel thing. If you want to work on marksmanship then get a decent target gun. Don’t get a SR22 or an M&P compact. The main three have been suggested several times. Go to a range or at least a store and compare feel, then price.

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seconding the buckmark, I love mine. need to take it out more

Ruger Mark IV Hunter is my recommendation. I’d add a few Tandemkross and Volquartsen parts (safety lever, bolt release, mag release) but stock is nice too.
That or a S&W 41 if you’re cashed up

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Anyone have experience with the LCRx .22lr? I want a .22lr double action revolver, and I’m debating between the LCRx and the .22lr SP-101.

The LCRx is nice and light weight (17oz), but I’m curious how accurate it is, compared to the SP-101 (30oz).

Is the polymer frame on the LCR the serialized part?

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pls respond

dat quad stack is pretty cool looking, i wonder if it feeds well

Whats that little boi to the right of the 10/22s?

They will probably fuck it up somehow. Jow Forums was hype as fuck for the PMR-30 back in 2011 or so; look how that turned out.

So, so fun

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God. AWFUL. Trigger.
I say that as someone who LIKES his mosin and SKS triggers.

Interesting. Keep shooting and update us periodically.

My 22/45 and P22 get gummed up pretty quickly shooting suppressed, do you have either of them that you might compare how quickly the TX22 gets fucked into jammomatic mode when shooting suppressed?

For my P22 it happens after 2-3 mags then it has to have HV ammo for another 4-5 mags then it starts jamming every shot. For my 22/45 it'll go maybe 10 mags with LV ammo before getting jammy, then switching to HV it'll go another 10-15 mags or so before it's totally gummed up into a single shot.

Also this Honestly
1: It's Lelkek so it'll automatically be less reliable (but no less fun) than other guns
2: It's a brand new product which also tends to make for quirks and reliability issues

It's totally unique and fun and cool for a lot of reasons but really you shouldn't have high expectations of either reliability or accuracy like you should with something proven like a Ruger Mark. But do get one because it's fun!

Feather AT-22, a neat little plastic and aluminum takedown rifle. I found out after taking the """"heat shield"""" off that the barrel is threaded in 1/2x28 so I can shoot it suppressed!

It has a different trigger from the centerfire LCR? LCRs have quite good triggers.

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psst...hey, buddy...self-defense guns are SUPPOSED TO have heavy triggers

I have a Beretta .22 conversion kit, it’s manufactured by Umarex and is quite nice, the only thing I don’t like is the safety feels cheap and hard to actuate.

But besides that it’s great, really accurate, cycles well. Would recommend picking it up on sale like I did.

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>this
really, the only thing i'd prefer on my mkII is to swap out the heel release for a side release
but it shoots so sweet i could never stay mad at it
>buys the ruger, happy forever

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Another suggestion for Ruger.

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So this means I should get a sp101 .22lr?

I want a light weight kit gun that’s accurate. The SP101 is a bit heavier, weighing around the same as a loaded glock 17. I’m primarily concerned with the single action trigger. If the sp101’s trigger is comparable to a gp100 i’d be happy.

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Get a bearcat, they only weigh 24oz

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Got me a 22/45 recently, would recommend

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What’s the weird George Kelgren-lookin pistol by the Feather’s wire stock?

Magnum Research Mountain Eagle Compact (aka Ramline Exactor), a mostly plastic 15 shot .22 vaguely based on the Ruger Mark

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