QTDDTOT

Fine for a .22lr rimfire AR, assuming that already had the carry handle. I wouldn't waste your money user, for $200 you can get a much better "cheap scope" that won't lose zero after five shots.

If it was a GB model with the folding stock, and came with a bayonet, as well as a stack of magazines, then yeah, $500 would be kind of a decent deal (they don't tend to shoot all that much better, but they're kind of collectible).

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Out of interest, what's bad about the Series 80 Colt pistols? I'm unfamiliar with them.

Handguns are portable emergency devices. Rifles are rifles. And all the bitching and pissing and moaning you hear about Mini-14's will never tell you that your average AK shoots no better than 3" MOA. But nobody ever bitches, because it kills things just fine.

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3 MOA is decent. A pre-2006 Mini-14 can shoot 4 MOA on average on a good day, and as bad as 6 MOA or worse, which I would not call acceptable.
4 is the minimum I'd call passable

9x25 or 357 "whisper"
>10mm glock
>357sig threaded conversion barrel
>357sig brass loaded with 9x39 259gr bullet to 10x25 COAL @ subsonic velocity
>9mm suppressor
Can shoot subs and switch to factory 357sig supersonic bullets which both feed out of 10mm mags with no modification.

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Actually if you loaded to 9x25 COAL and were fine headspacing off the extractor you could probably use a 9x25 Dillon barrel instead of the 357sig and then use 9x25 Dillon for supersonic instead of 357sig it may even feed better.

You could also load a 9mm sabot like 6.5×25mm CBJ and shoot it out of the 9x25 Dillon barrel

Supressable subs, supers, and AP sabot without barrel swap just factory 10mm mags with corresponding ammo

What happened to the other thread?

Is Grabagun any good? They have some magazines that I'm looking for at a decent price.

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80's have unnecessary "safety" additions to them that make the trigger shittier. Fuckin' paper pushing bureaucrats have to try and ruin everything. Stick with 70's.

Could an 80 be retrofitted to fix this, or is it too much bother?

There are videos on YouTube about it. It is possible.

Anybody else get burnt out from buying guns?
> got a decent safe of milsurp
> everything left on my list is uncommon/higher price or doesn't excite me enough to actively pursue it.
> Enjoy just finding things at gun shows and shops instead of using gunbroker.
> Starting to look at building a larp shtf AR
instead of buying more guns I'm just going to buy more ammo and get some training.

shitty as in you've actually used it and it's a bad trigger or shitty as in it was a controversy 35 years ago and nobody has gotten over it?

shittier, as in the 70 series is better. 80's can still have damn fine triggers. There's just no real reason opt for an 80 over a 70, the changes are unnecessary and only add any measure of safety on paper. A solution to a nonexistent problem.

Absolutely no question whatsoever, get the Colt. Ruger ranch rifles can be had any time, but Colt doesn't make 1911s like they use to.

I bought a Star BM off a friend who was sick of trying to figure out what's wrong with it. If you fire without applying inward pressure to the slide stop, the gun will cycle but lock up just ever so slightly out of battery. And when I say locked up, I mean I need to hit the back of the slide with a rubber mallet to get it to move. It's got probably 1/4" to go. Has anyone had this issue or have any ideas? Again, it functions just fine if I apply pressure to the slide stop, but it doesn't look like it's walking.

Not an expert but first id suspect mag/mag followers, then the slide stop itself, if not that i'd bet the rest of my monies on the barrel linkage and/or locking lugs. after that i'd just pawn the bitch

Get the Colt. My dad has one and fucking loves it.

Mags and followers seem fine. Tonight I'm going to pull the magazine disconnect "safety" and see if that does anything. The barrel linkage is fine. I haven't looked at the lugs, though. I bought the gun for $100, so I'm not too terribly upset if it's a two-handed range toy. Because it works great two handed, and it's actually pretty accurate.

all those 9/11 conspiracies are to smokescreen the (((CIA)))s involvement with the mujahideen and Al hoaxa, and the fact that if anyone were to actually find all the bank records of the hijackers and osama, it would not only indict a lot of the glowniggers and how much either US tax money or their drug money, but also show how much money comes from saudi arabia at the behest of CIAniggers, and most likely people the government has direct involvement with such as giving donations to many american politicians, probably including a particular incompetent shifty cunt from arkansas who spent every summer in new york as a kid

If ordered from them about 5 times. It takes about a week before they ship.

Why shouldn’t I choose a 20in AR for my SHTF rifle? Terminal ballistics are better with M193 ball than a 16 in. Can 4 inches of rifle barrel really make it that much more unwieldy?

Is 5.56 adequate for SHTF or should I go with something like 308 or one of the meme 6.5-6.8mm cartridges?

What should be me go to car gun? I don’t have a huge truck so space is limited. Should I go with an AR pistol? What caliber is best for something like a 10.5 in barrel? .300 memeout?

I want to be able to keep it in my spare tire compartment to keep it hidden. Don’t need tyrese or Officer Bootlicker getting interested.

Hi it's the bong again, what on earth looks better? So this is the current state of it.

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I was then told to put the FAQs on the bottom but I think it looks too front heavy and looks bigger.

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Then finally this is just some tampering with the boxes as I can't quite get it to look "Right" Any suggestions Anons?

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>all of this shit just to buy a single break-action shotgun
The absolute state of Bongs. It's almost sad when I hear Eurofags truly believe that they are free

I don't want to get into an argument over this just want to know which of the three looks best and what can be done to improve them.

The mini ranch is inherently more utliitarian (a semi .223 that you don’t have to clean as much as the ar) but get the newer ones

Just admit that Americans are right then we might help you lol

No because it'll go into the same shit of
>hurrr 22lr
>>hur california
>HURR fucking spoons and sporks and butter knives
>>HURR FOID & NFA cuck taxes.
No point in it.

The gun in your pic would be worth over $1000. No shit it would be a good deal.

Call them and ask them to do the transfer. FFLs don't usually want guns showing up without being notified and some have their own rules about what they will accept. You will have to talk to them regardless, because they will have to email/fax their license to the seller.

You could, but blowing out the shoulder and obliterating the neck, then reforming it every time would be awful hard on brass.

And you couldn't just stick with 9x25 brass for everything, because there's not enough room for the 9x39 bullets' ogive length.
In fact, I'm not sure you're gonna make OAL even with .357sig brass. 22mm case vs. 32mm OAL only leaves you 10mm for the ogive.

The trigger is only bad if you're a handlet with no forearms

Do you plan on being able to shoot from a vehicle?

So going back to the 357sig barrel and then having to find shorter heavy 9mm rifle bullets that would allow the 357sig brass ogive to meet 10x25 oal could work?

Yeah, maybe. Although good luck with that bullet search -- other 9mm/.35 caliber rifle cartridges typically have long ogives as well.

Honestly, the best answer for bullets may be cast .357 Magnum bullets -- a couple thousands oversize isn't significant for cast bullets, and anything that has a .38 Special crimp groove should come out just right. There's up to 180gr and 200gr in truncated-cone designs, plus up to 230gr specialty bullets for bowling pin shoots, pic related. Though I'm not sure that'll feed right, even with the benefit of a bottleneck chamber.

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Would they kill a 9mm supressor though?

Can someone recommend me good gun stores in oregon? I'm looking at getting a cheap AR or an SKS as my first gun, and I'm not sure where the best place to buy then would be, especially for the SKS. Buying online is not an option, because I live in Washington.

If you mean because of the difference in diameter, then no. Not only is 0.002" insignificant (the suppressor clearance is at least 10x that), as they go into the rifling, they're swaged down to .355", so they'll come out the same diameter as any other bullet.

Those fuck-long 230gr could be a problem, just because typical 9mm/357sig rifling won't be fast enough to stabilize them. But I assume you're planning on a custom barrel with faster twist, as otherwise the original 9x39 bullets would have the same problem. As long as the barrel is the right twist for the longest bullets you're gonna shoot, it won't be a problem.

for

Awesome so I guess my next step is load development to determine how heavy a bullet the 357sig brass is capable of throwing closest to the end of subsonic. My goal is to make the 300AAC of handguns.

It's not that bad. A bad 80s series is still better than the majority of good triggers. With a little polishing you can't tell the difference.

Is 4 inches going to make or break my ability to do that? Also, no.

It has a slightly not as good trigger as the 70 series because of the firing pin safety.

Is the Benelli M3 any good? I have M4 and love the style, but that ability to use pump and semi is really appealing.

I have no direct familiarity with either, but with Benelli and shotguns, I never hear anyone say anything bad.

Get the colt. Youll likely keep kt to show it off to your dumb friends who wont know what to make of your top tier rifle but will say ah colt yeah, or itll make a great trading bargaining chip. Its a good deal for the 1911, its a meh price for a ranch rifle.

I'm a bit confused about delayed blowback. Systems like lever-delayed, roller-delayed, gas-delayed...
Small manufacturers seem to either go with gas systems, or with simple blowback. Why do they mostly ignore delayed blowback? I understand delay systems add complexity, but so do gas systems and you have small manufacturers making gas guns. Also, when it comes to delay systems (other than mass itself), which is the simplest/cheapest to manufacture?

Everyone that shoots it complains about the trigger.
Maybe the trigger is good on your 645 but mine sucks.
The reset is fantastic, though.

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Is there anything I should know about shipping a rifle (that is under my name) across state lines (with USPS or any other postal service)? I always thought that in order to have a rifle shipped across state lines I would need to go from an FFL to an FFL but I talked to my LGS and they said I could just have it shipped to my new address.

Rifle is currently with a friend in Oregon and will be shipped to Montana.

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You'll need to ship it to yourself. If your friend does it that's crimes.

The fundamental challenge in firearms actions is that a cartridge firing exerts very high forces (thousands of pounds), even though it's only for a very short time (thousandths of a second).

Straight blowback is the easiest way to handle this, because all the high forces are localized in one component -- radial forces to the barrel, and axial thrust to the bolt; there's no mechanical interfaces that ever see these peak loads. (A bolt that's accelerated with thousands of pounds over thousandths of a second can then be decelerated by tens or hundreds of pounds over tenths or hundredths of a second.)

A locked-breech action is second-easiest, you do have a mechanical interface between mating parts (bolt to barrel extension/trunnion/whatever) that needs to take the entire axial thrust. But at least it can do that while completely static, and only open after the pressure has dropped -- there's no sliding contact under significant forces.

Mechanically-delayed blowback systems, as elegant as they seem, are really the worst of both in a way. The bolt body provides some large fraction of the resistance to opening (say 80% vs. the bolt head's 20%), so the roller (or lever, or whatever element provides mechanical advantage) must transmit that fraction (80%) of the axial thrust between the bolt head and the bolt body. This is a little less than a locked breech action, but unlike the static locking lugs of a locked-breech action, it must handle this force while in motion, with some sort of sliding/rolling/pivoting contact at three interfaces: where it interacts with the bolt head, with the bolt body, and with the barrel extension/trunnion/whatever. It's really a triumph of engineering and metallurgy that anyone can make these work without rapidly battering/wearing themselves to death, and even now that the big guys have it down pat, it remains a challenge for a lone hobbyist or even a small company.

(1/2)

Now gas-delayed blowback is a different thing. Again, the gas cylinder/piston handles some significant fraction of the bolt thrust, but here, the gas cylinder/piston may theoretically be integral with the bolt/slide on one side, and the receiver/frame/barrel on the other, so that no mechanical interfaces bear any significant loads during firing. More usually, at least one side of the piston/cylinder is a separate component, but the resulting interfaces are generally static (during operation; they may pivot or otherwise move for disassembly), so the design problem is similar to a locked-breech action.

>Also, when it comes to delay systems (other than mass itself), which is the simplest/cheapest to manufacture?
Definitely gas-delayed.

I'm not quite sure why gas-delayed blowback is so rare -- it's barely more difficult than a short-recoil action, and simpler than a gas-operated action. And it seems particularly suited to magnum-level pistol cartridges (10mm up through the various Automag/Wildey cartridges and .50 AE). Wait, considering how few pistols in this class have even been made, and how many of those have promptly flopped, maybe I just answered my own question.

(2/2)

ranch rifle specifically refers to the mini-14 model with the thicker barrel and spots for scope mounts on the receiver

That was a really interesting read, thanks a lot.
I don't have engineering knowledge so I didn't even factor they could drastically change how forces are applied and such. I just thought they were a bit more complex.
Thanks.

Is a Springfield mil spec 1911 a decent starter 1911?

CCI Blazer Brass

Yea or Nay?

Has ever been made a rifle or carbine chambered for the .455 Webley? Other than the retarded 1917 Villar Perosa double-barreled machinegun, that is.

obligatory "but you can buy an ar for just as much and even the most basic bitch AR does better than that

Thanks for the heads up. Will my friend have to bring the rifle to an FFL near him and have it shipped out to an FFL near me?

I want to make a flintlock, but not a historical reproduction. I want to see if it's feasible to make a basic flintlock mechanism out of parts available at the hardware store, preferably minimizing the amount of machining required.
I envision it as a survivalist's gun, since you wouldn't need to make primers. It's said that as long as God makes rocks and chicken shit, you can shoot a blunderbuss. I want to make the blunderbuss for the modern poor, deranged hillbilly. Something made of scraps, like the guns from TM 31-210.
The barrel and stock are easy enough. Anybody got ideas on what parts I can use to recreate the mechanism? Needs a frizzen and pan, and hopefully a proper half-cock and something to hold the flint.

Should I buy and AUG with an optic or a rail?
If I get the AUG optic, should it be 1.5x or 3x? What kind of optic should I get if rail?
looking to get it for a new go-to rifle

are there any click in place molle compatible mag pouches?

Like i use the integrated AR mag in my JPC but i want to be able to collapse the integrated pouches and then click in place some AK pouches on top?

Are there any kydex AK pouches with a plate that interlocks into a MOLLE system.

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>Is 5.56 adequate for SHTF
It depends; are you urban or rural? Do you plan on operating alone (bad idea) or do you have friends/family who can back you up? Do you plan on bugging in or bugging out?

Most of the time it should be fine; most SHTF engagements between civilians will be a few shots exchanged as both sides scurry off - no one wants to die over a can of beans unless they absolutely have to.

>20in AR for my SHTF rifle
I would go to a store and handle one, or ask a range buddy or friend and try just picking it up, shouldering it, and carrying it around. It won't be the same as trying to clear rooms with it, dismounting from a vehicle, or completing a 3-gun match, but it's way better than relying on it with nothing but internet info.

Even if you don't like it; it's not as though ARs are prohibitively money/space expensive - you can always have that one for fun, and build another one for emergency use.

I'd still recommend a shorter AR though, as at the distances you're likely to engage someone at in SHTF (within 100 m or so), M193 will still fragment just fine.

No 4" makes very little difference but the 200 FPS you lose does.

I have an 20" gunner barrel AR with a collapsible stock and an MI lightweight handguard.

Weighs LESS than an M4 with a quad rail.

I also have a UH-1 with an Juilet6 6x magnifier and the entire set up weighs less and performs better than an M4 with a quad rail and ACOG.

looks ugly as sin though. has more capability with the 1-8 twist for 40 grain pills all the way up to the 90 grainers

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Lol. An ar15 is better than the mini14 and glock is better than the 1911.

If you really want one of those I'd get the 1911 over the ranch

also realise that the UH-1 Holo sight has no parallax or eye relief so you can collapse that stock and bring it in for close quarters.

You get the compactness of the M4 with no trade of in performance that way. if you need that long range capability then just extend the stock and flip on the magnifier

Weird question but when taking my M57 apart I found the marking G69 written on the hammer and am curious what does it mean?

slamfire pipe gun in common shit like 12 gauge and 9mm would be better in basically every way

Except in the way I want, which is a lack of dependence on being able to find primers in the store. I'm talking a wilderness gun here.

Sighting in a scope and it's hitting low left. You want to turn the turrets in the "U" and "R" directions, correct?

if you want to larp, just say so. avoiding that just makes you and the things you're saying seem absolutely retarded

if the other options are D and L, then yes

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Lets say I have a budget of 500-600 dollars. What scopes should I look at in that price range?

A friend brought up that he has a early 80's Cobray Mac-11 that he is looking to sell. I think it's cool, but how much do they go for?

Just checking that you want to adjust in the direction you want the hit to go too, apologies for the retardation.

Is it fully automatic and fully transferable?

If so, probably 8k. If not, you might be able to give it away. Maybe.

Any 995ts owners here. Looking to see if the wear I had on the breech bolt was normal or not. I went ahead and cleabed it up and polished it a bit. Racks back so much smoother now.

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What would happen if I turned in a bunch of these to my local ATF office?

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Read my original post, nigga. I've already accepted the retardation of the premise from the outset. You're not telling me anything I don't already know. Quit trying to be the fun police. Answer my question or just ignore it and move on.

I'm reasonably sure its SA.

Could someone measure how much free space there is on the left side of an AR15 lower magwell, pic related if my description of the area was retarded. Getting an AR later this month and was curious what decals I could fit in that area.

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I live in a shit state that mandates background checks for all private firearms sales. How fucked am I if I dont do this while selling my ar15 to some guy?
State is Colorado btw.

If you don't know the guy, he's a fucken undercover shithead. If you know him, eh you do you, buddy.

Thats what youre supposed to do friend