80% lowers

well i would not be going hunting with a ar lmao.

it's not a question of need, it's a question of want

Do you realize people come here to chat?

because people that know better have better input is worth its weight in gold.

those people need to fuck off

why would you want your gun registered too your name in a data base? and the waiting period.

you may not be a felon today, but tomorrow is another day for gun grabbing legislation that might just make you a felon tomorrow just like those in Commiefornia with their darn illegal modern sporting rifles labeled "assault rifles".

you know i dont exactly understand what your saying?

Why are you here?

that very interesting boris thanks

>
do you guise have any experience with polymer lowers? do they break? are they stronk? what what now?

no waiting period here in sweet home alabama, and no paperwork if i buy it from a private seller
check and mate atf

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great picture
gun laws are stupid.
Here one could sell a built gun
and the new owner could claim they built it.
thus defeating the law. silly silly gun laws.

Still got an ugly as fuck billboard on the magwell. I live in a free state too, but I machine 80% lowers because I like the sterile aesthetic.

among other reasons. of course

If you didn't pay cash, there's a paper trail.

of course. ive thought about this.
just in a hypothetical someone may have thought about. one would assume don't bring a cell phone with ones person because gps tracking.
of course cameras are everywhere but we are getting out here into lala land. its a free country anyhow

this, the correct answer

also, it's kinda fun. you know your weapon.

im not understanding the point too this comment.

>do you guise have any experience with polymer lowers? do they break? are they stronk? what what now?
no, yes, no, metal

thank you.
I'm still looking for input from someone who does have experience with one

anyone with info on the laws on buying an ar15 in maryland would appricated. im confused with the whole h bar thing. and if building one without an hbar is fine

Hbar is Heavy BARrel

Most long range target shooters want heavy barrels because they claim accuracy
They also like longer barrels because more velocity on the bullet means flatter trajectory
I have m4 barrels and longer hbar barrels. The m4 is much lighter.

I doubt your'e going hunting at all

>I have no experience with polymer lowers but you can trust my opinion on them
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

I have a 300BLK pistol built on that exact lower
It’s really beefy, but only has a few mags through it so I don’t know how well it will hold up.
I will say you need to make sure that you get extended take down pins for it, and be very careful with them because you can just rip the little detant right out that holds the take down pins in with one hard jerk.

Polymer lowers are weaker. I've heard of them cracking. I guess if you're milling it, it'd be way easier. Why not do .223 wylde? It's essentially a 5.56 just redesigned to shoot a .223 more accurately than a .223 out of a 5.56. Check out Ceratac, have uppers assembled for $55. With a barrel attached, like $140-$155. They also have 300s for $160 if you'd rather have that.

O and if you just buy the whole kit, you can add an aluminium 80% lower for I think 35$. They sell a good milling jig for like $200. Small company, doing big things. Unless you got questions Imma stop shilling them now, or I'm gonna have to send them a bill.

Have a EP armory 80, was fun to mill out for 15$ but there is a reason I went with Anderson's the next time around.

I was gonna polymer. Lightweight, easier to drill, etc. Then again, so is aluminum. Then again, a completed stripped one isn't much more. I googled shit, saw broken polymer lowers and figd fuck that. Ordered an Anderson for like $45 from the local FFL. He called and offered a Aero Precision x15 for the same price. So I got that.

All of the propagated stories and threads on the internet of broken polymer lowers are 6-8 years old when they first came out. The major manufacturers are on their third and fourth generations of the products that do not fail like the first gens.

Ok. Good to know. Maybe next one I'll consider polymer. Not regretting the decision i made tho. Maybe after I get a polymer done I might.

>polymer 80% lowers
They are ok. I've thru about 3K on P80 AR15, an about 1K on P80 AR10. No complaints, no cracks.
Both were done with $15 harbor fright hand drill, $1 flat file, and $1 set of find files from dollar store; and whatever drill bits came with the kits. Lots of filing, lots of grinding.

I did a poly lower. Super easy to cut out imo. Magwell left a bit to be desired. Pmags no fit. Gi mags needed force to get in out. That was maybe 5 yrs ago. Bugs may have been overcome in current 80's.

How are the polymer80 glock kits?

What about the aluminum ones?

I've built several JMT lowers over the past few years. Polymer is easier to mill but also easier to fuck up.
JMTs are higher quality than poly80 but they cost 3x more than a raw forged 80%
They are a lot lighter tho so I put the JMT on my 300BO.
Cheaper & easier to just buy one but what's fun about that?

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What do you mean how are they? They're easy to build

Biggest issue polymer had was flexing at the buffer tube boss and causing jams.
Almost all now have aluminum reinforcement in critical areas.
Polymer is easier to mill than aluminum, but its also easier to destroy it. If a bit gets away from you on aluminum, you might have a blemish. If it gets away from you on polymer, you just chewed a half inch hole before you could stop it.
There can also be deformity issues over time with polymer- especially if stored poorly.

The hbar thing is a meme there is not a definition of heavy barrel so just buy whatever upper you want

I do really like the TN Arms polymer lowers, and they have them in the 80% variety. I've never finished an 80% myself, but it seems like polymer ones would be much more realistic to do well with hand tools rather than needing a lathe/drill press.

Why do people build gaming computers?
Why do people build cars, boats and bikes?
Building things is interesting, fun and a way of learning.

Bad analogy. The point of building things like gaming computers is some combination of saving money, getting configurations you can't buy pre-made, or customizing the object to suit your personal preferances. None of that applies to 80% lowers. 80% lowers cost more than premade lowers and there are fewer options for customization.

>>Building things is interesting, fun and a way of learning.
Agreed. Though how is using an 80% lower appreciably different than buying a premade lower? It's not as if you are going to be customizing your lower by drilling holes in different places or anything like that. You will be customizing the weapon based on your parts choices.

this
the usual point of DIY is that you're either making the part better, or you're doing it cheaper. 80% lowers are neither better nor cheaper than commercial lowers.

I've never used a polymer lower, but I've seen and made 80% aluminum lowers. I wouldn't want to use a lower made of polymer myself, and since it's easy to have manufacturing issues in 80 percents that are aluminum as it is, I don't think I could trust a poly.
I went with 80 lower and they were good. Harder to mill because it requires more expensive materials, but they're worth it and you can make others. In the end you may just be best off getting a stripped lower from a reputable company such as Aero if you're trying to keep the price low. Keep in mind that if you're under 21 they can't be sold directly to you by FFLs because they can be made into pistols. I ran into that issue.
Aero precision has great parts at low prices. I would avoid Anderson, and PSA is ok but not as good. I have an Aero upper on my AR and it's done me very well thus far. The only issue with an Aero upper is how their proprietary uppers have wider handguards than usual if you're getting a free float like I did. Not a big deal to me, but I like the smaller ones.
Bear with me here, but unironically I think 5.56 or .223 wylde would be the best to chamber the rifle, and yes, because it's your first althought that's far from the only or best reason. Versatile round, wide availability, and same goes with the magazines. You could also do 7.62x39, but the round doesn't always work best in ARs, the parts can be expensive, and steel case ammo is not best in ARs either. That's the only other caliber for an AR-15 that comes to mind, and it's best left to combloc weapons.

tl:dr: Stripped lower>80% aluminum>80% polymer, Aero Precision, 5.56 or .223 wylde all day in an AR-15