Reloading

Try Hodgdon H110 or Winchester 296. They're both the same powder and have always given me really accurate and powerful results in .357 Magnum. Mind the muzzle blast :)

youtu.be/NefXBHsVZYI

Desu that seems a little unsafe
Plz be careful

thanks mates win296 and h110 seem to be the most recommended. Its still bizzare that titegroup performed so horribly though.

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This was brand new brass fired from my r92 with 9gr. of titegroup. Is this brass fucked? This expansion is really weird. Why did this even happen?

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>9gr of titegroup
user...

That was from hodgden's own load data.

Looks like a miscut chamber
You are using the right brass for it right?

Did you work up to that or jam your head up your ass and start at max published?

That chamber's too big for that brass.

I jammed my head up my head up my ass and used a medium load. 9.6 is max and 8.6 is min.

Its .44 mag and the rifle is for .44 mag. I full length sized it and everything.

I just tried to chamber that case and it was pretty hard to do.

There are multiple cases of people with Rossi rifles that have rather "generous" chambers. Give them a call and see if they'll warranty it, don't mention using handloaded ammo though just to be safe.

Yeah I imagine so. Not sure what you've got going on there but I'm just not a fan of titegroup for magnum loads. I usually for for something slower.

fucking hell, isn't rossi's warranty service shit? Goddammit, I was really looking forward to having a 92 in .44mag and I spent 5 hours smoothing this damn thing up. How long does it usually take for rossi (braztech) to make repairs?

How do you make rifle brass and primers?

I know how to make cordite from gun cotton, nitroglycerine, and Vaseline, and I know roughly how you can make these materials, I also know that you can make a primer powder from crushed match heads and the chemical on the side of the box. I am unsure how to make lead Styphnate without being put on a watchlist, I would also be unsure how to get the materials, but there is not much point in getting these materials since making primer powder out of match heads and matchboxes seems a much safer way of making them. Bong btw.

Why don't you ask him and use him as a mentor?

Fuck is my warranty going to be voided when they see I've sanded some parts? Fuck me man, this sucks.

Read a book or two.

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First reloads ever. 6.5x55 with trailboss. 11.4 grains of trailboss with 120gr projectiles. Looking forward to seeing how they do next week at the range.

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I really like the idea of reloading yet it's illegal in my country.

Pretty stoked. Reloaded these 9mm, and used them today in USPSA without a single issue, and even with a light fps load they knocked down all the steel I shot.

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>single stage man

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Keep us posted, I've been interested in using that sort of powder for reduced 6.5x55 loads but never jumped in to it. Did you find any data or is this just an experiment?

just make fulminate, if joe blow the 1830s chemist can whip up a batch using nothing but mercury acid and alcohol so can you

Anyone here use an ultra sonic parts cleaner to clean their brass? What are some good cleaning fluid formulas for these things?

It's a combination of data and experiment. Trailboss can be used in rifle rounds with the rule of 70% of the max powder load (allowing for the space occupied by a seated bullet, not compressing the powder) being a safe, low power round. I measured the max powder load of the Hornady cases with the 120 grain projectiles I have and 70% of that was 11.4 grains of powder. From various sites I've seen suggestions for loads used for shooting the swedes starting with 10 grains, right at 11 grains and up to 14 grains of Trailboss. So I figure if I start with right at 70% per the Trailboss loading rule it should turn out all right. I might try reducing or increasing the charge, depending on how well it shoots. This coming week I'll be heading to 100yd outdoor range. If I go on Wednesday I'm tempted to bring my reloading set up with me and try to work up an accurate loading right there. It's usually deserted in the middle of the week.

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Cool, what's your recipe? I can get 9mm range brass pretty much for free; since none of my friends bother to reload for it. What's the best source of 9mm bullets for cheap reloading? I'm not overly interested in cast for anything that's not a big, slow caliber starting with 4.

user I'm so sorry. What godforsaken land are you from?

Well, that's neat. My only concern is accelerated throat erosion with such a fast powder, especially in a smallish diameter bore.

>Hornady .38 Super Auto dies
That was my entry point into reloading. I loved shooting my .38 Super 1911, I didn't love paying for ammo that was underpowered. I've got a load using 124gr Hornady XTP bullets, Alliant Power Pistol, and CCI 550 Small Pistol, Magnum primers that will match velocity with Buffalo Bore .38 Supers and brushes into .357 Sig territory. Now I just need to replace the ejector on my 1911 and get a stiffer recoil spring, maybe an extended barrel with porting as well. Lesson learned.

Just make SMALL BATCHES of fulminate.

Never reloaded before other than shotshell, does it matter what kind of brass you use for loads? I have an assortment of 556 and 223 with maybe 6 different brands.

I was worried about that initially but with light charges of trailboss or unique you don't get the heat necessary to create throat erosion; the charge is so light it doesn't have that effect. I would compare it to running your finger through a candle flame. Technically it's hot enough to burn you, but it's such a small source of heat for such a short period of time that it doesn't affect you. Of course people argue over what creates throat erosion in the first place, but IMO you see throat erosion most with heavy bullets, large powder charges, and small bores. So I'm shooting light bullets with a small charge in a small bore, and hoping for the best. The cowboy action shooters seem to do okay with bullseye (no real reports of throat erosion there) but they usually also shoot larger bores. So we'll see. I may wind up using a proper rifle powder, but I'm not sure yet.

I find 37gr of N160 gives great accuracy with 140gr FMJs. About 2000fps.

Step 1: sort, I use some sorting shake sieves I bought on amazon.
Step 2: wet clean using sonic cleaner, water mixed with simple green, mostly to get dirt etc. out.
Step 3: cook in oven 1 layer deep on baking tray, 200~250 degrees. Hot enough to gas out water, not hot enough to anneal.
Step 4: Vibratory tumbler with media + car wax I bought from harbor freight. Waxes the outside and smooth's everything out.
Step 5: Dillon 650 + case feeder + dillon case trimmer and die on spare mass-trim setup.
*DO NOT allow any moisture in your vibratory tumbler, brass must be BONE DRY*
step 6: use hampster ball to remove any media from brass, pour into amazon box, wd40, hand mix then add to feeder.
Step 7: cycle all brass through progressive and place in ready to go pile/bags for later use.

And that's about it for prep. Doing the initial decap/resize/trim in one step also helps make sure your brass is good to go.

Keeps those nigger .204's out when youre going fast, lets you check neck tension and problem brass before everything is set up, and the dillon trim die sizes the outside so it can help smooth out any weird bumps or scratches etc...

>"I just make my son do it"
t. My dad

So which loading should I go for with my 6.5? I'm thinking 42.4 just to be in the middle since there is only a 20FPS ES between 42.3 and 42.5

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Primed 600 556 brass watching Netflix this afternoon.

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Damn straight

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this and some ss pins is the best cleaner ever

I wish I had the money for a proper loading set up.
Would cost thousand tho

Wait till black friday and get a rock chucker rcbs set off midway. Mostly everything you need for about $300.

Also for those who dry tumble, you can get bangin walnut shell media from a pet store. Just go to the lizard aisle and look for lizard bedding.

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Nothing wrong with Lee, my dude.
It’s just not overbuilt.

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>wd40
WD40 can kill primers and alter powder burn characteristics, but probably not enough to matter unless you are making top-tier match ammo.

I load my 6.5mm Jap with 35 grains of IMR 4350 behind a 139 grain bullet, and the load data I have here for IMR 4350 says the starting load is 35 grains and the max load is 39.2 grains. Shoots smooth. What is your load? I'm always looking for more 6.5 Jap data. I have some H335 loads for 120 and 140 grain bullets as well.

While true for regular stuff. There's plenty wrong with lee for precision loading

Prepped some 9mm bullets. Hopefully gonna start reloading 8mm mauser soon.

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I'm looking at getting some small base dies to help with feeding issues. Would you recommend them or no?

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Yes and no. For plinking grade ammo mixed headstamps are fine. If you want match grade ammo you need to stick with one brass type.

i agree. also its so easy

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Holy shit even the insides are clean. Is this it? Do you just fill this with water, dump that shit in there and shake it?

What power factor?

>38 stupid
What part of Mexico are you from?

stainless steel pins are also added and it tumbles in water for 3 hours

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>3 hours
That's way long...

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Titegroup was designed for lightweight target loads for cowboy action shooting. It sucks for actual magnum loads. 2400 is good for heavy loads.

Goddamn, are you sure it's not .45 Colt?

I run my 5.56 on a dillon 550c.

I have a second head with the trimmer mounted.

I wet tumble and then dry in an oven. Then sewage, Then lube with iso/lanolin, then onto the first tool head for a deprive, resize and trim. Then I dry tumble them and store away in bins for annealing.

I use a salt bath annealing, makes for an cheap and quick process.

When it is time to load, I mount the other tool head. Lube again.

Small base, resize with out the decap pin, run through the 550c. Store for a range or rainy daym

for a large amount of brass its needed.

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The rcbs small base are gtg

by needed i mean you get a more consistent shine. they are all clean after an hour or so

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Question from someone with zero reloading knowledge or experience:

I'm considering getting some basic reloading tools so I can make something I can't seem to find on the market: a 5.56mm or .223 shotshell.

Basically, I plan load the first couple of shells in the mag for an AR with birdshot-sized shot for snakes, the logic being that if I am threatened by a copperhead or rattlesnake (we have both where I live and they're angry little fuckers here) I won't have to have something other than my AR. To those of you who say carry a shotgun I have personally ran into a group of 3+ people on my land including one a group of people hunting and camping and facing down a group of armed people by yourself with nothing but a 12ga doesn't appeal to me. I have also had to call the state police about a meth lab I found on my property.

So, in a nutshell, my plan is to have a couple of rounds of shot sitting at the top of the mag and the rest being regular 5.56mm. That way if I run into an aggressive venomous snake I'll have means to defend myself right at hand without trying to make a snap shot on such a relatively tiny quick-moving target, and if I run into a larger predator including that of the human variety, I can just rattle off the first couple of shots real quick because it's an AR.

So I guess my question is this: Can this be done?

I see no reason why not, my true concern is that they wouldn't cycle very well and fuck me over if I needed regular ball ammo in a pinch rather than shot. I know shot fired from rifled barrels is super inaccurate due to the spin of the shot cup but I'm not going to be using the shotshells at anything other than literally point-blank range so I'm not concerned about that, nor am I worried about the relatively small amount of shot I'd be able to use in a 5.56mm because I'd only use it against snakes, not a game animal or aggressive human.

Bottleneck cartridges do not play well with shot charges. Pretty hard to get a usable amount into a .223 as well.

i do not reload
but i do jew brass from the range and give it to my gfs dad who does, and he gives me reloaded ammo

Just shoot the fucking snake with what you have. A .22 shotshell is barely effective as is. Loading it into a 223 casing isn't going to help.

>Only a 12 gauge

They're incredibly effective once you stop playing Vidya user.

My only 12ga is a single shot and I don't feel like facing down a group of armed men, something I have had to do although it was very civil, and only having a break action 12ga. I'd prefer not to have to carry another gun but I guess I'll just have to. Maybe a pick up a shockwave or something similar.

>Shockmeme

user, I...

i want a "small" gun for shot. what would be less of a meme, a fucking judge?

Dude.. you can kill a snake with a stick. What is wrong with you?

Ignore that faggot, get a shockwave

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Single stage is for people who cannot into progressive presses...

way faster

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I see boxes of 1k rounds of deprimed .223 brass on gunbroker for about $70. Is there anywhere that has it cheaper?

I use HS6 for my .44 mag. Maybe not the most optimum, but it gives me good results for medium power loads, and I have a ton of it from other calibers.

these things are comfy

who would build outta marble and stone? they must have rocks between their ears lol, woods so much faster

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the pantheon is made of brick, not stone

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I got bit by a snake when I was a little kid and I'm fucking terrified of them. I would quite literally rather set myself on fire than get anywhere close to a snake if I could help it.

Fuck you, man.

you use the exact same materials on a progressive as you do on a single stage... its the exact same bullets being made but faster.

Flawed analogies are flawed.

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>thinks faster equates better quality
you reload and shitpost with kentucky spelunking enthusiasts. your time doesnt matter

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Never load more than one snake shot in a semi automatic, you only want the one round in the chamber to be snakeshot. When the gun shoots, the recoil can cause the crimp to fail and snakeshot can pour out sometimes. In the chamber, no problem, the BBs roll out the front. If it happens inside the magazine, those BBs can jam the gun. Happened to me with a 1911 once.

Thanks for the tip. I need to see about purchasing a real rifle powder for this and my 30-06

Have you experimented at all with light for caliber bullets? I am a little disappointed with the lack of variety in 6.5 projectiles for the swede; could I consider 90 grain bullets normally used by 6.5 grendel?

I haven't really, the lightest I've gone is 120gr. As I'm sure you know Swedes have a long leade so light bullets (construction depended) are way back off the lands. Though I admit I've never done any real accuracy testing with 120gr bullets and I have no idea about the 90gr bullets but you're probably right, although I'm pretty sure there's a lot of expanding stuff for light and medium game in the 90-100gr .264" bracket. For what' it's worth I recall my Swede shott well with the 120gr soft points I used for light pinking loads, don't remember the charge but it was only at 50m.

What I am going to try and do is develop a load using 123gr Scenars, I have an R700 in 6.5x55 and that's what I put through it. Hopefully I can work up a good load for my m/96 (it's being re-barreled at the moment with a Lothar-Walther) and I won't have to buy two different bullets. The thing about these Scenars is that they are long as fuck and have a G1 BC somewhere around .520 IIRC. They're longer base to ogive than the 140gr stubby Privi FMJ bullets I used to shoot. I want to see if I can get somewhere close to Swedish military ball external ballistics using this bullet in the Mauser, I think their bullets were probably a little higher BC but can't have been by much and I can easily put on a little more velocity to compensate without worrying about pressure; they're light.

Filling an ammo box with cases and dosing it with one shot, but letting it dry saved me a bunch of time in stuck cases. My Frankford Arsenal makes processing cases a breaze.

The single stage meme needs to end.

>There's plenty wrong with lee for precision loading

Oh please, great reloading wizard, impart unto us your wisdom and why we should have a Dillon 650 just like your daddy lets you use.

I do wish I would've started on progressive