3D Printing

I want to print some tips for cast lead hollowpoint bullets. I bought an ender 3 and a collection of pla and pla+ filament.

Is there a way to make it sequentially print one tip then move on to making another? I don't want to have to babysit it since making a tip would probably take a couple of minutes, but I can't see how well printing lots of little tips at once would work well if the print head is jumping between them constantly.

I haven't received my printer yet so maybe it's a nonissue.

That's something I want to do someday.
Receivers, bolts and trigger groups of old rifles like Hyde's carbine and Earle's T25 just so I can fiddle around with making the T25 semi-auto

heres an idea for something to print (just the idea). id like to get one of these but $50 is a bit too steep imo
suppressortools.com/

The printer will move from the bottom up. So if you printed an array of tips, it would print all of them from the bottom up. Not one, then another, then another. All at the same time.

same guy different post. Just thought that manually lowering your print speed would improve the quality. I would be loathe to actually fire any of them though. It might leave plastic bits in your barrel. The other issue is that there is no way in hell a bullet that cannot be seen on xray will keep you out of the Jury's ill graces. If you're dead set on doing it though use ABS. It is typically better suited to harsher environments. (It's what legos are made of)

Looks like different slicers allow for sequential part printing.

I'm shocked nobody reposted that 3d printable glock for you.

Not really sure what you're talking about. A bullet tip doesn't touch the bore at any point. Tips like those on vmaxes or amaxes are just plastic. The tip doesn't need to survive any particular stresses either for the most part- it simply existing and being in the hp cavity will cause the bullet to fragment more explosively.

3D printed American 180 please. Angry bees

Oh. You should be fine then. Misunderstood what you were saying for a second.

This is true, but depending on the printer it may not support the slicer you try to use. For instance Flashforge/Monoprice printers only work with their software.

Link:
mega.nz/#!zqhERQgA!sO6-PRp1oAOtPBpHKvMWjIJAETcFAnrRNfXtaRiDOPE

Here's the archived thread with more links and info, there's an AR-15 mag link too:

CURA has an option for it under either experimental modes or special modes
Make sure your print head isn't going to collide with your part and send it flying, if you leave the printer unattended for the whole print.

Hopefully it won't be an issue, I'll have to take some measurements but most of the tips will be fractions of an inch tall and less than a quarter of an inch wide at their widest point.

Yeah, I just looked it up. It would be under special modes as "print sequence"

Just space them out by the widest distance from your nozzle tip to the edge of your hotend and you should be good. I have my ender 3 here if you want a measurement while you are waiting for yours to arrive

I meant I'll have to measure to model the tips themselves.

I'll try and make some pointed tips for longer chambered guns like my 4570 contender and some of the shorter 500 s&w bullets I have.

For some of the bullets that already push OAL I'll try a rounded tip like on some of the hornady defensive ammo.

Should be a fun experiment to capture slugs in water and see what difference it makes. Or I can use my labradar and try to calculate the change in ballistic coefficient by measuring downrange velocity.

If your part is shorter than 0.28 in, you can get away with 0.625 in + max thickness center-to-center spacing without hitting the hot end insulation. If it is taller than 0.28 in, you will need 1.75 in + max thickness spacing to avoid hitting the edge of the fan guard. If it is less than 0.2 in tall, you can get away with 0.25 in + max thickness to avoid hitting the nozzle, based on rough measurements I just took on my ender. Sounds like your max thickness is 0.25 in, but what fraction is the height exactly?

I never knew how stupid this was when I realized you could literally just use anything with a reflective surface at an angle to help look around the corner instead of an over complicated piece of shovelware with a camera instead of an optic

Ballistic tip-printing user, I had an idea for you. Once you tweak your models and get them to work well, you could pot several in silicone one half at a time to create a multiple cavity mold, and then use one of those liquid urethane plastic casting mixes to create tips. This would scale up well and be more repeatable.

I've got a couple of these, they're basically a mirror box that lets you do the same thing, only your hands still need to be exposed unlike the Cornershot.

Attached: proxy.duckduckgo.com.jpg (483x405, 15K)

Anyone here print the Glock from Ivan?
How does it hold up??

Also anyone print a RUGER recover? How does it handle?

What is that?

That is a good idea.

I don't have any 3d printing experience but I do know basic 3d modeling. All of my stuff should be here Tuesday so hopefully I'll have something to show for it by Saturday or Sunday. I'll post up pics in whatever 3d printing thread is around.

He just fucking told you what it was.

Brand?
Model?
No.....

look up "corner sight" on Amazon or something idk

A five or ten round magazine for the Marlin 55 model bolt action shotgun.

bump.
Does he have the files to his ar lower?

3d printed glock frame
mega.nz/#!zqhERQgA!sO6-PRp1oAOtPBpHKvMWjIJAETcFAnrRNfXtaRiDOPE