Berdan primers

I then use my drill press to drill a hole through the primer and the “anvil”, using the dimple as a guide.

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>berdan

Fuck

Sorry for the side pics, phone poster.

This is the result, a dead center whole all the way through.

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I pry the primer out using an Allan key, they are stout yet small. This is easy enough but can take a few trys.

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Can't you just take the anvil out of the primer and load that into a berdan case?

I base this on "I think I heard someone talk about doing that once."

Here is the brass with primer removed. You can see the two original holes and the new center hole.

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>.
bro, do you want to know a simpler way? fill your empty brass with water, put it on top of a hex nut that holds the base but has a hole big enough for the primer, then insert a wood dowel into the neck and use a little mallet to lightly but quickly to tap out the primer using hydrolic pressure. why do you guys make things so difficult?

There is no way to remove the used berdan primer because a modern reloader is just a pin that goes down the case and into the center hole pushing the primer out from the inside. Berdan primed cases have no such hole.

water pressure, as i stated above

Tried that, takes longer and isn’t as easy in my opinion. Plus you still have to drill out the anvil which can be difficult with no primer dimple to guide it.
After this I reload it like regular, a large rifle primer fits perfectly and I use the original bullet and powder.

Finally a Jow Forums related thread on Jow Forums!!
Thanks OP, I find this very interesting please continue posting.

youtu.be/Q0q0E4GtSa4

ah i see, so in your OP you didnt mention you were tyring to convert to boxer. if you can, try sourcing berdan primers

here you go
budgetshootersupply.ca/product-category/categories/rifle-pistol-reloading-components/primers/large-rifle-berdan-primers/

Here is a belt of 50 after about an hour. Took me a while to figure everything out.

To be honest I completely forgot. I got one that came with all the original receiver pieces. Didn’t have to buy a front end, just reused the old one. All original, rails too.

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sorry i misread your OP, you did mention converting to boxer. not bad. how do you determine your starting load? the flash hole size matters for pressure and ignition doesnt it?

Very slightly cheaper to make is all. No difference for ignition.

Looks exactly like a Boxer primer without the anvil.

I too have heard that mentioned, but it wasn't clear if the guy was speaking from experience or bullshitting about what should be possible, and I've never tried to run down dimensions to find out if it should actually work.

OP, the normal, easy way to decap Berdan-primed cases is find a pin that fits the neck well, fill them with water, and hammer the pin. You do the work with a sink or bowl of water, so you can scoop each cartridge full of water, put it on an anvil (with clearance hole for the primer to fall away), and pop it with the pin and hammer.

But then you're probably going to convert them to Boxer anyway, and your method does accomplish that instead of needing a separate step, which mitigates the extra time and complexity. I'd rather do the conversion in a lathe, but your way is probably easier if you don't have one.

To be completely honest again, I have no idea. This is a pretty sturdy gun and I’m just going to risk it. The original powder load was 42.4g. I’m keeping it at around 40 to be on the safe side. I have no idea how much the flash whole size affects the pressure or anything, but I doubt it be enough to cause any serious damage to anything.

I will see how these 50 rounds go, and adjust my loading if necessary.

New vs old

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looks great, hopefully it works fine. i would say maybe try running the test rounds through a sturdy bolt action mauser first to check for pressure signs, they are probably more resilient than an MG clone

I feel sad and old seeing this. I remember seeing ads for 79 dollar mosins and dirt cheap 7.62x54r. And now hand loading is basically required.

Yeah if I could find boxer primed 8 mm Mauser for 35-ish cents a round Id just buy that. But I’m in college and have little money. I scrimped and saved for this build and got it done for about $1200 It ammo has been my problem. Hopefully this solves my problems. I don’t mind reloading either. It’s peaceful, and in this case actually much cheaper.

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Post a picture of the completed build.

You could just buy Berdan primers.

Reloading them is a bitch though.

What apppp is this

spend the $20-40 on a kinetic bullet puller, it is well worth it, and won't fuck up the cases the way that you are doing it can.

the hydraulic method works well but if you are going to convert the case leaving the primer in is a decent method to make drilling easier

soak them in WD40

Likely a retarded question, but why the fuck don't you just get a longer, pokier firing pin and some beefier springs to make it hit harder?

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Is this nigga really not gonna post his build

I wish I could. Like I said though, I'm a poor collegefag. Hypothetically, would it be smart to take pictures of it now and post them here when technically it shouldn't even be in this building (which it isn't)?

I dont see what the problem is as long as you dont leave anything identifiable in the photo

oh boy i can just see the headlines when some janitor cleans your room while you are at class

>HEAVY MACHINE GUN WITH HUNDREDS OF ROUNDS OF ARMOR PIERCING AMMUNITION FOUND IN DORM ROOM ON "ANONS COLLEGE" CAMPUS, FBI AND ATF ARE ASSISTING LOCAL AUTHORITIES. UNCLEAR WHAT THE SUSPECTS INTENTIONS WERE

are you retarded or just really young

>"ALL SCHOOLS IN A 20 MILE RADIUS WERE PLACED ON LOCKDOWN AS A PRECAUTION. THE SUSPECT, A 20 YEAR OLD WHITE MALE, APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN APPREHENDED. AUTHORITIES ARE INVESTIGATING WHETHER HE WAS ACTING ALONE"

Sorry. Maybe a kind user will come along tomorrow and post their own build.

>"THE WEAPON WAS DISCOVERED BY ACCIDENT BY A JANITOR DURING A CLEANING SWEEP. ONCE DUBBED "HITLER'S BUZZSAW", THE WEAPON WAS FEARED BY AMERICAN TROOPS BECAUSE OF ITS ABILITY TO CUT MEN IN HALF AT THE SQUEEZE OF A TRIGGER. THE WEAPON FIRES AT A RATE OF 5,000 ROUNDS PER SECOND, EASILY ENOUGH FIREPOWER TO CUT DOWN A FORREST."

How does it works famm?

I understand, its fair to be paranoid about things like that while in school. i feel the same way about posting my funz on social media.

Noguns detected.
More firing pin protrusion and a stronger striker/hammer spring is literally the solution to hard/deep primers. I bought a bunch of .223 for 16cpr because it was loaded with hard primers that a regular AR15 wouldn't reliably set off. An extended firing pin and stronger hammer spring let me fire it all without incident.

kek based SGAMMO user. i did the same shit, worked out pretty well actually. ammo worked 100% reliable with just the pin, didnt even need a stronger spring but bought it just in case

try it with just the extended pin.

i tried with both items alone, and then together.

with the extra power spring, i got like 30-40% reliability.

with just the pin i got 100% reliability.

with both i got 100% reliability and a heavy shitty triggerpull

;^) wish I had ordered a few more thousand rounds of it.
I never installed the extra power spring tbdesu. The pin was enough for 100%

Don't worry about it, what is one concrete floor with a gun on it?

This, isn’t OP. I am sorry, I just went to sleep early last night. But here you go. In all of it semi automatic glory.

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I tried I have your hammer spring, but that did not help. I don’t think I’ll be able to try an extended firing pin since nothing Is really stopping it anyway,

Post more feet

Please tell me you're running ammonia/boiling water through your gun to neutralize all the corrosive primer salts after you're done

Ammo seek.

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Aftermarket aluminum AR trigger group.

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No, just an oily rag.

I know you're probably not going for accuracy with this build, but oil alone will NOT clean out the corrosive primer salts from your boltface/chamber/barrel when you're setting off the primers to get them ready to drill. You'll get barrel and boltface pitting and royally fuck the barrel. You need to dissolve the primer residue using either boiling water or an ammonia based substance. Windex works.

Also make sure to clean the cases the same way so you don't have to deal with them being corrosive the next time you fire them

Thanks I’ll do that, usually only about one out of 50 actually goes off though.

Not really. You just use the decapping tool, same as has been done for 130 years or so. The rest is the same as loading Boxer.
Ammonia is next to useless for cleaning up salt. Just use regular hot water.

IIRC correctly the MG34 maintenance kit contained oil and petroleum.

Yeah, oil and petroleum.

bergflak.com/pkasten.html

But what about photo of gat?

take out the barrel and show us the bore, also how long did it take to refill the torch cuts? That always seemed like a gigantic pain in the ass

if you are going to be a poorfag with only 1 gun, this is the way to do it. fucking based

fuddlore

doesnt even need to be hot. just a bit of wet patches until they stop coming out black is fine. i dont even bother with water anymore, just use hoppes 9 and finish with oil and never had a problem

gunbot.net/ammo/rifle/8mm-mauser/

Dude how fucking poor are you? Sell them on gunbroker at a 10% loss on your purchase price and buy good ammo. Holy fuck how little do you value your own life that you are going to waste hours doing this?

You know what? 10/10. Good job OP. I always hate throwing out my berdan cases. I probably won't go through this effort, but I've always wondered if just drilling a flash hole would work. Thanks for reminding me though, I need a drill press.

Who makes the new production berdan primers? I would like to buy some

Selling them seems like a hassle. I don’t have to money to buy a bunch of boxer primed stuff.

> i dont even bother with water anymore, just use hoppes 9
Guess what Hoppes contains.

i dont think we confirmed it works. OP hasnt posted a success story, for all we know they will blow up his gun and face at the range. my brass flash holes look a lot smaller than his drill hole so not sure how that affects the strength of the case or pressure spike from powder burning all at once faster

thats why i said that. dont overcomplicate shit, hoppes 9 cleans corrosive just fine and its cheap and does everything else as well (like remove copper fouling)