/Flashlight Genera/

Flashlight discussions and recommendations here.
>what’s your edc flashlight?
>do you prefer flood or spot?
>which brands do you recommend?
I’m thinking about buying pic related. Olight S1R 2. 1000 lumens out of one CR123 is pretty amazing.

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Other urls found in this thread:

skylumen.com/products/sl2-sl2c-24mm-pocket-clip
youtu.be/zdFe-LmFRV8
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

I replaced my beat up old AA ZebraLight with one of these, carry it in the watch pocket of my jeans with a small Leatherman. It's been awesome so far, the magnetic USB charger it comes with is convenient as fuck. Highly recommended.

I have been carrying an Emisar D4 SST-20 4000K, although I'm not too crazy about how quickly it ramps down in brightness from full power. When you unscrew the tail cap and screw it back in, it will reset at the highest regulated output level, which is typically what I leave it at, but it's kind of weird to keep having to reset the flashlight.

I recently picked up a PflexPro S2+ Triple with Nichia 219C 4000K, and it would be a great candidate for EDC with the 18350 tube, except that the pocket clip sucks. Has anyone found any other pocket clips for an S2+ tube? Vinh has one that looks strong, but it says "needs to be glued," which makes me think that it isn't good.
skylumen.com/products/sl2-sl2c-24mm-pocket-clip

That's my wife's EDC. I carry an M2R and am very happy with it. It had some weirdness at first where for the first month it would sometimes turn on, and sometimes not when using the tail button. Now it works perfectly fine and usually only needs to be recharged once every two months with near-daily use.

>It had some weirdness at first where for the first month it would sometimes turn on, and sometimes not when using the tail button.
I have had these kinds of issues with various brands of Chinese flashlights. Sometimes it seems to be something as simple as the circuits malfunction when the battery is fully charged but they work fine once the voltage falls below 4.2 volts or something. With a couple of my Zebralights, the button will sometimes (rarely) go non-responsive, and I think it's because of a fully charged battery. Unscrewing the tail cap always resets the behavior to normal.

Lately, I've had a weird issue with my Acebeams using the stock batteries. When I click them into turbo, the flashlight will either blink three times and stay on, or just shut off after a second. Supposedly they are fully charged, but since their 21700 batteries are too long for standard chargers, I've had to charge them inside the flashlight. It's possible that the flashlight's built in chargers are overcharging or not charging enough. The problem is I can't reproduce the issue. When I reset the flashlight by unscrewing the tail cap, they work fine again. I'm still troubleshooting with Samsung batteries.

R8 plz. I find it really useful, far from being tactical or for self defense.

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Eagtac's TX3G Pro MKII is a really nice option if you want to carry a flashlight on a belt holster. No tail switch and the side buttons are recessed to prevent accidental turn-on. Max output: 3550 LED lumens; 2900 ANSI lm. Highest and lowest outputs are each only 1 button press from "off." Press and hold for momentary turbo. Double press and hold for strobe. 5 normal outputs/modes and 3 auxiliary modes. On a belt holster, you can't tell the difference between a 26650 and an 18650. This light uses the former, so you get a higher constant turbo that will allow the light to run over 2000lm for a little over an hour straight. Obviously the bigger battery has a higher capacity, which will give you longer runtimes too. The battery fast charges via a USB-C port on the light. It's also got a nice, floody beam and a flat tailcap that stands very easily, so it's great for area lighting. It's not the brightest 26650 light and the lowest mode isn't so low at 25lm, but the buttons and UI are simple, fast, and accidental turn-on free. All that being said, the Thrunite TC-20 would be my recommendation for a 26650 flashlight IF you were only going to leave it home or in a vehicle. Emisar's D4s is cool too, but it's really more or an enthusiast/hotrod light than something you'd want to work with all the time.

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I had this problem too with my Klarus XT11GT before it eventually died on me. My Klarus XT2CR hasn't had any problems yet though.

D4S gets hot too quickly for a home utility light. A flashlight with more mass heats up slower, and the thermal regulation won't have to kick in as quickly to ramp down the output. It's a fun hotrod for flashlight enthusiasts, but for me doesn't really compare to something like a Thrunite TC20 or Acebeam L30 II.

I don't know about you, but getting an HL-X rail mount for $100 makes it seem like I BTFO'd /arg/ fags buying $400+ surefire setups pretty hard.

Which issue?

The surefire shills will never admit you beat them. The guys telling you their lights have survived for years are running around with 5-10 year old flashlight tech. It's like talking trash about the Samsung S10 when you're still using an iPhone 5. New surefire output is still mediocre. People only pay their outrageous prices because the shilled belief that nothing else has surefire reliability. It's simply not true. Flashlights have been around for over 100 years. Any flashlight company with decent QC knows how to make a light that works. Olight, Streamlight, and Fenix are just a few that come to mind. Plus, surefire loves to donate to anti-gun Democrats. Be glad you spent your money wisely and don't fall for the surefire shills.

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Non-responsive buttons that only work if you screw/unscrew the tailcap.

>Flashlights have been around for over 100 years. Any flashlight company with decent QC knows how to make a light that works.
This is a fallacious argument. LED flashlight technology is pretty new, and the flashlights that push the cutting edge can and do have growing pains with their designs.

I'm not going to shill for Surefire, and I agree that there are a lot of great flashlight manufacturers that are making as good or better lights, but there's a huge range of quality.

This, for example, is a very annoying issue with some highly reputable LED flashlights that use electronic switches (as opposed to mechanical switches).

Post your flashlight collection.

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Flashlights have been evolving long before the LED. The biggest issue now is probably heat distribution/management. Once somebody cracks that, we'll be in a new era. I'd even go as far to say that LED flashlight tech was pretty much figured out before rechargable batteries went mainstream in flashlights. You're right about the range of quality though. You definitely have to do your research before buying just any light, but there are several brands you can trust to put out quality products.

>>which brands do you recommend?
>there are several brands you can trust to put out quality products.

Do tell.

dam son
Here are a few of mine.

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Streamlight Polytac 90 and Streamlight Sidewinder compact.

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Streamlight
Olight
Fenix
Thrunite
Nitecore
Eagletac
Armytek
Zebralight
Acebeam
Klarus
...
...
...surefire too

There are a few things worse about the HL-X like the design of the tapeswitch (except the rail grabbers, those are way better than Surefire's solutions), the fact that it only has a single spring contact in the tailcap leading to flickering, and the location of the bosses for the 1913 and "scout" mounts setting the light really far back in comparison the Surefire offerings. The only reason I don't have a 600DF is the HL-X has much higher range. I also hate Streamlight's CS, they have been total garbage for me.

Emisar is pretty good too.

I've been needing a new duty light and I want to move up to 18650 batteries from CR123's. Any recommendations? What's the state of the art model these days?

Emisar D4S with XPL-HI 4000k

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That's exactly what I have except in black. The green one is SST-20 5000K with green aux LEDs because of the green tint at low PWM levels.

I like that the XPL-HI 4000k has minimal tint shift but reds could be better rendered.

It's low CRI, but it has a nice orange/rosy hue that reminds me of an incandescent light. Really cool to see warm white light coming out of a thrower like the D1S.

I have the BLF GT it's pretty warm I use it on strobe mode to wake up hobos in their camps of filth from close to a mile away.

Olight Warrior X
Klarus 360x3
Streamlight Protac HL 5-X

>Klarus 360x3
Not him, but I like the idea of using a Cree XHP70.2 in a floody flashlight. Have you used one of these? Does the rubber USB flap stay closed? Is the UI clunky having two switches?

Actually, I take that back. 3200 lumens is a lot for turbo, but the next step down in brightness, high, is only 400 lumens? That's not the most useful mode spacing.

I had the XT11GT and I really loved that light. The USB flap stays closed and the UI is actually amazing. The light goes into turbo or strobe straight away. Main switch can do momentary with a half press. The outside tailswitch will change modes descending from turbo. I never really had a great holster for it, so it sat head-up on my belt and I always had to be cautious of unintentional button presses when sitting down. Also, it had a side switch that I kept locked out because it could also turn the light on. I would have liked the light even more if I just bought the right holster for it.

I'll bet they designed the drastic mode spacing to help cops on traffic stops. 3200 is too bright unless you're at least a couple feet back. 400 is easy to get to and a lot more appropriate for searching inside a car or shining in someone's face.

Thanks user, will research these lights.

Anyone want to hazard a guess at the lumens?

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Any upgrades for my HK USP light? I've got they proprietary one but I hear the light itself can be modernized as well.

Son of a bitch... That beam is ridiculous. The flood coming off of that thing too, fuck. I have no idea, man... 50,000lm?

Not been measured, but when ET need signalling...

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If I wasn't a poorfag, I'm sure my compulsion to buy that thing would just turn me back into one.

what is this thing?

A 1kW AN-VSS-3 Xenon arc light that they used to mount to Vietnam era tanks.

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Was actually looking at this exact flashlight earlier. Went with a Micro Nebo CR123 flashlight instead.

If anyone is interested in a Surefire Kroma let me know.

why are we stuck with chink shit when it comes to flashlights? doesnt japan make lights? wtf

you cant have this many lights and not post on candlepower. who are you on there. also any recommendations on a UV light for general body fluid scanning of hotel beds and counterfeit money detection?

you better be careful playing with that thing, you are going to accidentally get attention from ayys

I carry a Zebralight SC600W MK.IV+. It works in any outfit. A tight fit in jeans though.

It has a pleasant floody beam and the best runtime of any light with this kind of output. I mean, 2700 lumens for 25 minutes, that's sick.
The UI is also really good, and it has a 0.01lm low mode (pic related) that allegedly works for 2-3 years on a full cell.

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The sub-lumen low modes are really only useful for burglars. What legitimate use do you have for such a dim light? Normal civilians don’t need lights that dim.

If you're in pitch black, 0.01 is legitimately enough light to do almost anything.

And you need to stay in the shadows because why.....?

I don't as a rule or anything.
It's just that, as the saying goes: you carry an umbrella if there's a 50% chance of rain, so why not plan for the certainty that the sun will go down?

Sure, let me just connect Jow Forums with an account I use to buy and sell flashlights sometimes which can be connected to my real identity.

What? You’re not answering my question.

Yeah I am. It's a certain thing that you're going to end up in scenarios where 0.01lm is useful (any situation of pitch-black darkness) so it makes sense to have it.

2014 model Fenix PD35 flashlight.

Spot.

And honestly my Fenix has lasted me for four years and I haven't had any issues with it really.

45 lumens.

Dunno why you think you need more.

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I like old lights.

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Hey, quick question.
I bought a NEBO Redline Select RC awhile back.

It worked well for a couple of months, but now something in the ring switch/ button area rattles. It'll work when reset, but the slightest shake can make it not work at all.

Does anyone here have a clue why that happens? And if it can't be fixed, what's a good pocket flashlight that can take an absolute beating?

>need

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Cops mad our flashlights can be really dim. Hahahhaha

Redpill me on a =

If you're putting a light on a gun, you want a gun light. They are specially potted to resist the shock of repeated fire.

Why have 45, when you can have 180 in a even smaller package?

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I am searching for a flashlight for work, i work as a security officer. I already have some ledlenser flashlights, they are ok, bu i would like to get one cheaper. I am searching for well over 1000 lumens. I am searching amazon but i only find lots of weird chinese brands, and i find suspicious their claims of so extreme brightness for as few money

R8, it lights shit up to the end of my yard, that's all I ask of it

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Streamlight Strion. About $100, and you don't have to keep buying batteries.

What’s your budget?

WMLs are generally not potted unless they're cheap Chinese stuff.

Up to 100 euros

Edc is the green Fenix P2d on the left. The original nylon holster came apart a few years ago, so I had a friend make me the leather holster.

The light is about a decade old, but it's gone literally everywhere with me, and i've never had any problems. I'll probably just stick with it until it stops working, or the O-rings deteriorate. Kinda have a sentimental attachment to it.

A different friend gave me the Klarus Mi7 in the middle. He hated the interface, and the side clicky switch would always get activated in his pocket. That is a bit of a bitch, so I don't carry it too often.

The Surefire Z2x is nightstand duty. I bought it beacuse it was unopened NIB on ebay for 80 bucks, and I always liked the old z2 but wanted an LED. It's long been surpassed in tech, but agin, it was fairly cheap, and it has that high speed low drag rubber ring specifically dedicated for pistol use. I have a dedicated weaponlight for my HD pistol, but it's nice to have a nightstand flashlight that can double as a tactical light if needed.

Have a few maglites kicking around too.

Worst flashlight I ever bought was a Surefire L2 lumamax; too big, the LED beam would donut at close range, and the fucking glass came chipped. Fucker was 150 bucks iirc

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Acebeam T36 is excellent.

Need a lazer light combo for my rifle. Send recommendations pls.

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>****crack****....*sipppppp*..."yep, 45 lumen streamlight micro, now theres a real flashlight"

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ewww

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Who dat?

A political activist and lefty psycho, Jim Acosta.

Because I hate multi-output switches, I've never found myself wanting a brighter light, and that Olight only offers 180 lumens for 21 minutes, and 5 lumens is far too dull in anything but pitch black.

I'm not a flashlight nerd, I'm not attracted to gimmicks. I want a simple, plain, reliable light for work.

youtu.be/zdFe-LmFRV8

>that Olight only offers 180 lumens for 21 minutes
Jesus. That's way too short. If a flashlight can't maintain high for at least an hour, then it's a bad design - assuming we're not referring to some turbo mode that is designed for short bursts anyway.

Does anyone think that high CRI emitters matter? If so, why? Somebody on BLF tried to convince me he used his high CRI flashlights for "photography." When I pressed him for how or why he would do that instead of using a camera flash, he went off the rails.

Microstream with lithiums is the perfect EDC combo. Enough output for pretty much everything, but doesn't drain the battery too fast.

I EDC that light and I love mine. Convenient size, the battery for EDC going back on charge (the magnetic charger is god tier) each day is more than enough, turbo mode pointed at a white ceiling will briefly light a room like you turned the room lights on, should the power be out or if you're in an unfamiliar room/office whatever and the light switch is hidden somewhere weird. The magnetic charging means the tailcap is magnetic, and strong - so I'm constantly using it as a worklight under car bonnets, or stuck to screws, doors, or whatever the fuck else. Love mine, would buy another in a heartbeat if I lost it.

Depends on what you're doing. The better CRI the easier it is to identify things. CRI is important for vehicle headlights, for instance, and if you hunt with a flashlight it's probably important there so you can properly ID the animals you're shooting at. For other applications it may be of less importance. Also flash photography is annoying, but using flashlights instead of normal photo lighting is weird.

Jesus shitting tortoise eggs that's magnificent. Hard to power it?