Body Armour Thread

>Soft armor as long as it's 100% woven aramid will last literally forever.

Well hot damn this is encouraging

If body armor is legal to own in Canada there may be people selling it on eBay located IN Canada. Importing body armor from USA is a big nono because of ITAR regulations, but if there is body armor that is privately owned by a Canadian citizen and it is being offered by a seller whose residence is already in Canada I don't think there are any legal issues. However I am not familiar with Canadian law do your research.

Good thinking

An Osprey Mark 4 (or Mk 2 if you want, you can get them from sportsman’s guide) plate carrier plus an AR500 Steel front plate with a built up coating along with the multicurve option and a trauma pad backer is the most cost effective option for civilians.

People are going to shill the fuck out of Kevlar and Ceramics in this thread but they won’t talk about all of its drawbacks and there are A LOT of them. Things like lifespan and cost are the major issues.

It's not really expensive anymore, though. Hesco 4400s, although they're heavy bitches, are only 120 a piece. Then a pig brig to carry them is like 90. Or if you want the slavaboo look, a defender 2 carrier for 120.

This is horseshit, and you should feel bad for posting it. Steel is endangering lives, and you should not suggest it. Battlesteel plates (brand, they're actually ceramic) are 90 bucks from botach.

>Things like lifespan

“NIJ tests failed to demonstrate any significant differences in 10-year-old armor, regardless of the extent of use or apparent physical condition”

AR 500 and SAPI plates do not fit in an Osprey mk 4. You'll need to use their proprietary plates for that which I do not recommend given the rarity, age and the cost.

AR 500 steel in particular is a meme. You might get a good batch. You might not. Understand that when they order it from the forge, AR 500 is not an armor grade steel. It is a steel that exhibits bullet resistant properties. There is a gulf of difference there, because the forge has different tolerances for them, and it's for a reason. You could get a bad batch of ar500 that bullets zip right through. Which HAS happened. So you roll the dice, if you want. My life is worth more than that.

Oh boy there they are, steel is great for preventing round penetration.

“BUH BUH MUH DEFLECTION OFF THE PLATE INTO YOUR THROAT!!!”

Do you honestly fucking think that a round is going to go through the inch thick plate carrier, then through the inch thick built up antispall coating, then back out it and back out the vest again (going through even more shit if you have accessories on the front of your vest)

Kill yourself Armorlets, keep quoting prices and shilling for companies.

You're better off buying used SAPI plates on eBay if you're in the US. You can test the plates you receive by doing some simple non-xray tests.

youtube.com/watch?v=31dO_Xyj5ik

Do the USMC twist and plate tap test. You can use your finger to ping the ceramic strike face inplace of the tool used in the video. As long as it rings like a bell and you don't hear a cracking sound when you twist the plate there aren't significant cracks in the plate. You can save a lot of money buying used sapi plates and as long as you test them like in the video above they should be fine.

“BUH BUH WHAT IF THERES A DEFECT BUH BUH WHAT IF WHAT IF WHAT IF”

Kill yourself noguns

Definitely don’t do this, waste of money and too much risk involved in the case that you get a bad set of armor.

This is literal retard advice

>“BUH BUH MUH DEFLECTION OFF THE PLATE INTO YOUR THROAT!!!”

I'm not really against ar-500 but if you watch videos of them being shot inside of a card board box, the bullets do basically mushroom and shards shoot outwards perpendicular to the plate and go through the cardboard box from videos I've seen. As long as it has the spall coating though it tends to stop all that.

youtube.com/watch?v=ZxkJM1elAyc

ar500 is okay but I just prefer ceramics.

Do you buy all of your guns brand new too?

It's pretty easy to test your gun to see if it works. Body armor, not so much.

But what fucking exactly is your argument here, fuckwads? Battlesteel plates are lvl 4 ceramics. Once you add the anti Pall coating to lvl 3 ar500 plates, those are more expensive. NIJ testing shows no appreciable degradation of ceramics after a full goddamn decade. So.... what, exactly, then is the point? You like being contrarian? Because that's all you've fucking got, faggots.

>Body armor, not so much.

as long as the ceramic doesn't have significant cracks in it and it's made by a reliable manufacturer I don't really see the issue. Even significantly cracked ceramic plates/sapi plates stop rounds all the time on youtube.

Na, most of mine are kit builds or 80% builds that tuned to work how I want them to.

Lol retard

99% of people are going to buy armor that’s going to sit in their closet for the next 50 years unused

You don’t want to finally pull that shit out during a home invasion after it sitting around for 30 years and have it break down as soon as it gets hit

Also ceramics are used IN TANDEM with a Kevlar vest you fucking retard, they don’t offer the full rating unless they both match up and the cost of both will be probably 4x MINIMUM as much as a steel plate + commercial plate carrier would be.

Do your fucking research noguns

Again, ceramics have to be used in tandem with Kevlar or a similar material to have the full armor rating. At that point you may as well have just used steel.

Attached: 14153C96-99F2-4591-8EE6-53D17F46C767.jpg (1535x2048, 512K)

>nogunz
You keep saying that, and yet you're the faggot quoting shit that's 20 years out of date. Almost all modern lvl 4 ceramics are standalone. No one wears soft, unless they have to. Even if you do, you don't want it. You sweat like a fucking pig, and I tossed mine as soon as I had the chance. If you INSIST on nonceramics because mUh lOnGeViTy then get the new plastic shit. It's only lvl 3, but it won't degrade.

>Also ceramics are used IN TANDEM with a Kevlar vest you fucking retard,
>Again, ceramics have to be used in tandem with Kevlar or a similar material to have the full armor rating. At that point you may as well have just used steel.

THAT IS NOT TRUE.

There are ICW stands for "In-conjunction with" sapi plates that require a IIIa soft backer to obtain their full rating. There are stand alone plates that require NO SOFT ARMOR. You don't know what you're talking about.

God fucking ceramic shills never know what they’re talking about, “HURR DURR YOU SHOULD SPEND 500 EXTRA DOLLARS SO YOU CAN SAVE 6 POUNDS BRO, GREAT IDEA HURR DURR”

They NEVER know how ceramic is used, also note that this post doesn’t say what is meant by soft body armor (NO it’s not fucking riot armor, they’re talking about Kevlar)

Do ceramic shills even actually own armor?

Attached: 7F3E133A-228C-4B52-8FD7-A7916A79311C.jpg (750x778, 323K)

store.atarmor.com/Hesco_4400_Level_IV_Stand_Alone_Plate_p/hs-4400.htm
try again, fatty.

How about don’t be a weakfag and actually excercise, can you not handle walking with an extra 10 pounds that is evenly distributed by the vest? Really?

Please post the prices of these stand alone plates and a few examples

Its kelvar with insertable plates, waiting for the seller to get back to me on more details

Lol that armor performed about half what the AR500 tests did, imagine actually buying armor that can only take 3 fucking 7.62x51 rounds. I mean sure I guess it’s technically a level 4 vest if it stops you from dying by one single bullet lmao

> (You)
>Please post the prices of these stand alone plates and a few examples

No because it commonly exists. There are two catagories and most sapi plates state this on their body armor label. They will either say Stand Alone meaning no soft armor needed or ICW meaning they need a plate backer. Anyone who knows anything about body armor is educated on this.

botach.com/battle-steel-level-iv-10x12-ballistic-plates-only-5-5-lbs-80-thick/
Right here, fatboy.
>can you not handle walking with an extra 10 pounds
No fatty, some of us run in them. And crawl. And maneuver. And even if you don't, no one asks for more weight to carry. Except you, when you stuff the next 7 cheeseburgers in your mouth for a light snack.

Where can I get XL E-SAPI (11x14") rectangular plates lads?

Attached: 1542046317593.png (686x891, 97K)

...

>XL
Don't do this.

youtube.com/watch?v=oMYkEMhPsO8

Imagine buying body armor that is easily defeated by 55gr XM193

You're either trolling, or you're a straight up retard.

Attached: deus ex shame.jpg (462x301, 15K)

I thought aramid degraded over time? Why do many kevlar vests go bad?

>“The warranty exists solely to limit the manufacturer’s liability on the product and is not a reflection of the anticipated service life of the product."

“The warranty exists solely to limit the manufacturer’s liability on the product and is not a reflection of the anticipated service life of the product."

ar15.com/forums/armory/Kevlar_getting_wet_in_SHTF/10-407741/

"I have tested armor over 10 years old that was beat to shit and looked to have been submerged in salt water at some point (it was stained, dirty, and had a crunchy feel when you bent it, I think from the salt crystals, and it was a part of a USMC issued OTV). Obviously I didnt do frag testing, but it stopped all of the handgun threats that armor of that type should stop and then some. 9mm out of a 16in barrel (so likely around 1400fps), 45acp, 10mm JHP, etc. were all stopped. The only think it didnt stop was .17HMR at about 2500 FPS which I didnt expect it to stop and which has ballistics very close to 4.6mm HK. I'm thinking about doing another test using some variant of 5.7mm as well as a few other oddball calibers like 7.62tok but I digress. The reality, at least with kevlar and other woven p-aramids (as opposed to laminates like goldflex and unidirectional PE laminates), seems to be that ballisitic fibers tend to rediculously durable whether they are sealed in the newer goretex shells or not."

Standalone isn’t as effective as steel of the same rating, go check tests
Lol Ad Hominems cuz no other real arguments.
Nice dude you just saved 4 pounds wow dude!
Thanks
Not an argument

I think it's sweat, honestly. If you've never worn one, they're fucking hot. You will sweat your ass off. I would imagine that has an effect on the fibers over time.

Certainly a valid concern, but it's steel so you can test it by shooting it as much as you want. It's not like ceramic or kevlar where you can't test it before use.

I'd argue you are taking more of a risk because you can't test the individual kevlar or ceramic vest you are wearing.

Don’t listen to him, guy doesn’t know what he’s talking about.

It certainly does degrade and ruins effectiveness

ncjrs.gov/pdffiles1/Digitization/111390NCJRS.pdf

Not according to this NIJ study.

Why?
I'm not fat; I just want some extra coverage if I wear a soft vest beneath my PC

So just retarded, got it. Look you dumbfuck, you haven't made real arguments. If steel were magically superior, we would still see it in wider use. Except we don't. You said steel would take more hits than ceramics. That's patently false. You said that the ceramics only took 3 hits of whatever the fuck instead of more. That's the NIJ standard for the class. That's how the testing is performed. Nothing more, nothing less. 55 gr m193 will zip through a fucking ar500 plate. You're defending the properties of something that happens to have bullet resistant properties against a product specifically designed to STOP them. One is engineering, the other is a retarded fluke. Check the msds sheets for ar500. Look at the tolerances from the forge. Then come back and tell me you sincerely trust your life to that. cliftonsteel.com/ar500-steel

>what is microfracturing
>what is work hardening
You fucking can't do that.

That's not really how they're meant to work, friend. Get a dangler with supplemental armor or a diaper if you want more coverage. Those are meant for that use.

Lmao you have no idea what you’re talking about, just go back to nerf kid xD

Good luck with shouldering your rifle, nerd.

Attached: 1492221245674.gif (540x501, 1.56M)

Hey, hey! Check out this 40 year old book that probaly didn’t conform to modern armor standards!

Fuck off retard

I've got groin armour.
I want more coverage between the main plates and the sides.
There's a decent sized gap that makes me nervous.

How would it stop me from shouldering my rifle?

So retarded, and a troll. Whatever, man. Choose a different fucking topic to troll on other than shit that is playing with people's very fucking lives. Seriously, body armor isn't a fucking joke. If you're buying it, you need it to be the most effective equipment you can get for the money you have to spend. I tried to provide real info. You just jerked yourself off into this thread.

Attached: 1524897690818.jpg (600x532, 42K)

You can't really cover it. There's been some attempts, mimicking old plate armor rondels and such, but it's clumsy and impedes your movement far more than it helps protect you.

That sucks.

drmorgear.wordpress.com/2014/07/13/vintage-kevlar-armor-or-old-armor-better-with-age/

The person behind this website and the articles within is an actual body armor engineer. I've talked to him over email about various subjects concerning body armor. He claims on his website that the information contained within this NIJ study while old IS ACCURATE.

>mimicking old plate armor rondels

Dragon Skin is/was the best but I don't even want to open that pandora's box of a discussion it's too long and head ache inducing.

realistically, if you're buying something you will use in the event that you are getting shot at, why skimp or trust milsurp?

if its just for dress-up, who cares, go for it. but if you're gonna wear something to protect yourself from bullets you should be 100% sure it will work.

Not an argument, keep diverting.
Again, steel is the way to go. Come back with some real statistics

>you should be 100% sure it will work
Even level IV plates can't stop WC rounds.

The thing to remember is that all armor is compromise. Juggernaut type stuff doesn't work in the real world, unfortunately. The best you can do is to cover the stuff that will end you immediately if it gets hit. That's what the plates are for. Those plates you want to stop as much as is humanly possible, without impeding you at all. Sized too big, you can't move right. You can't shoulder a rifle correctly. Even when they are sizes right, you'll have a learning curve on getting your gun up.
tl;dr stay fast enough to not get hit, and for everything else, there's hesco.

You're more likely to need to rely on your seat belt's tensile strength in the event of a car accident, yet I don't see anyone religiously replacing seat belts after 5 years nor checking the date of manufacture.

Where are your stats, fat boy? You keep asking us for ours, and then dismiss them all. So show us. Dazzle us with your pure brilliance and make us jizz our pants with your superior ballistics knowledge.

Attached: 1555270190933.jpg (2048x1536, 400K)

>Again, steel is the way to go.

If you want armor that's overly heavy and easily penetrated by green tip sure.

>there's a good chance it'll spall
Not if you apply a good layer of rhino liner

This is your daily reminder that m193 penetrates steel armor better than m855(green tip). Thank you for complying with this mandatory education.

hey brother it's your face, not mine. Go for it.

Easily penetrated by green tip in some cases*

However performs exceptionally well against most every other round other than specially designed AP rounds

Do you really think that Tyrone is going to have AP rounds in his glawk fawty that’s going to blast through your armor like paper when him and his crew break into your house at 2 AM?

Get real kid.

Literal retard advice

Sup nigger.
youtube.com/watch?v=oMYkEMhPsO8
And it's also penetrated by the military's newish M855a1.

So, it's penetrated by m193 and m855. Probably the two most common and cheapest types of 5.56 on the entire goddamn planet, aside from shit-tier steelcase garbage.

>continues talking about how a round meant to pierce armor pierces armor

Wow really bud, who’d’ve Thunk it?

that's thin as fuck ar500
mine's like twice that thickness
I forget which one it is and I'm not about to pull that shit out of my pc just to shitpost
>1 microsecond on google
III+ specifically mentions defeating greentip

>FMJs are now dedicated AP rounds
wdhmbt

Does anybody know where I could buy some large Level IV SAPI plates that aren't over $150 each? I have an Interceptor vest in a size large, and 10x12 commerical plates sit low enough in it to concern me with having that extra inch and a quarter in length. If I absoloutely had to, I can just get some 10x12's, but I would rather have properly sized plates.

because seatbelts are just made of fabric. ceramic plates actively deteriorate over time.

AR500 armor's website chief, its a backpack plate.

nigger its going to stop you from dying, just spend the extra money.

Lol imagine posting shit steel armor to try to prove a point, where’d they get it from? Wish? Lmao!

>ceramic plates actively deteriorate over time.

They really don't but I'm tired of pissing into a stream of piss.

God this is the dumbest shit it the world, comment OP literally just put something down in there to help. Wrap the plate with duct tape lengthwise to boost it up a little bit, no point in paying more money for no benefit.

Lol you know a tenth of what you think you do, here’s a tip for you;

For every 3 times you want to talk only speak once. the other two times when you usually would talk, just listen

Alright bud?

>Does anybody know where I could buy some large Level IV SAPI plates that aren't over $150 each?
magic land where magic plates grow on trees and then a nymph comes up, sucks your dick, and then everyone claps

oh my god please delete this, this is the most boomer comment i've seen on Jow Forums

pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/i300006a006?journalCode=iepra6

Kevlar does seem to degrade certainly from UV, likely from moisture, and possibly from other things. Maybe if stored in a dark, completely dry place the strength is not affected at all, but that's not very realistic.
Pretty disappointing that only decades-old studies can be found.

That's good advice for yourself.

Most kevlar inserts are contained/sewn within nylon ripstop covers that block out UV light, it isn't a concern.

I second this

>H-Here look at these decade old studies about how this material can be ruined by light, water, and shock! Only the three most common things it’ll encounter, not like that’s a big deal right? Right?!?

Kill yourself my dude

What the hell is a Boomer, son?

-TomPeddy1352
—————————
94’-95’ national guard boot camp vet

I only carry 45 because they don’t make a 46!

Better to be judged by 12 than carried by 6!

Attached: 1537652536589.png (471x397, 189K)

Dude, this is just pathetic. I'm not trolling you like some others, I'm having an actual discussion. There are hundreds of youtube videos of people unloading hundreds of rounds into AR500 armor without it failing. Steel doesn't spontaneously fail after just a few test shots that it's rated to stop. There are lots of criticisms of steel armor, weight being the biggest one, but it's ability to stop many rounds without failure is one of it's strengths. If you can't recognize that steel has some strengths, it's clear the only thing you care about is ignoring all facts and just winning an argument that never even existed to begin with.

I second this, ceramicfags are legitimately retarded. Steel is strong as FUCK BOIIIII

>strong
see
>heavy

inb4 the usual 'lift more faggit' bullshit