Gun stock repair

You can find stocks at the gun show for $10
That might be a better choice than trying to repair that stock
But...
Epoxy Is stronger than wood glue.
Since you will need time to clamp the wood I would avoid 5 minute epoxy.
The brand really doesn’t matter too much
Get whatever the hardware store has

youtube.com/playlist?list=PLJvsSlrbdhn4PDXdIuLKWJCkVEu4i2HAV
unironically watch through this playlist.

Nails, dowels, dovetail-studs (aka bowtie keys). Whatever does the job of physically securing the two sides of a split together. I once drilled two parallel holes in a stock from one side to the other and wound some copper wire through them until I had something that just would never give a fuck about anything. Then I filled the voids and sanded the excess off for a nice surface finish. I wish I had pictures.
Neither glue nor epoxy will give it much structural strength in and of themselves. For stuff like tables, door frames, and whathaveyous, it's good enough but for a gun stock that's just asking for trouble if you intend to actually use it.
Is also right. Unless you actually want to repair it, and you very well might, getting another stock might be the easiest solution of them all.

Most epoxy is too thick to seep into joints. Wood glue can be thinned with water. Superglue could do it but itd be rough and ugly.

Polyurethane glue like gorilla glue will foam up and expand in the presence of water.

I think I used a needle tip superglue applicator for my cracks and wood glue in the damaged areas i cut out. I had some screw holes stripped so drilled it out and glued a dowel in.

Linseed oil might actually act like a glue and fill in the cracks.

I can't find too many stocks for this particular one. This one is a spanny, but it's the 1916 carbine, which is a little shorter. Might just get a sporter stock and keep the old one. Any stock recommendations?
>inb4 bubba
It's a stock

thanks for the big red circles, I wouldn't have been able to notice the cracks otherwise

Do not use wood glue. Epoxy and rubber tubing will fix it just fine.

If you are trying to preserve it, then I just would stop shooting it. If you just want to keep shooting it, drill some holes, fill them with epoxy, and pound some dowels in.

>REEE VISUAL AID BAD

Use a shop vac to suck whatever glue you use into the crack. I fixed an M1 Carbine stock this way. Wedge the crack open as far as you can without causing further damage. Apply glue to one side while applying shop vac to other side of crack. Clamp once glue is thouroghly dispersed through crack.

why would you want to spread the wood apart even more, complete retard here.

Take something thin you can put into the crack and very gently spread it apart, then put super glue in it and clamp it closed, I hope you have a vise or something.

Follow up with brass stock pins epoxied in if you want. Brownell's has them.

Wrap some brass wire around it should hold together for at least 100 years

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Get a Dremel with the router attachment. Set your stock up in a soft vice. Slowly work the existing out with the dremil. Save your wood dust . Clean area out side of the area you just dremiled with denautured alcohol. ( Do not get the alcohol in the dremoled area. ) Tape off with frog tape the area around the area Dremeled. Get some jb weld clear and mix adding the saw dust. With a toothpick add the mixture to the area dremiled. ( Do not fill) Take another tooth pick and rough up filler. ( This will allow the next cost to adhere to the previous. Repeat till full. Let it cure. Pull tape sand if necessary. If patient your stock repairs will out last you.. I've used this process on wood, Bakelite, polymer and such. Good luck have fun and take your time

>piles of stocks at gun shows for 10 bucks
Not anymore

>dremil
>dremiled
>dremoled
>dremeled
>dremiled
Make up your fucking mind!

literally never a thing

Watch The Anvil on how to repair a stock PROPERLY! Do not fuck around with it until you've watched few of the stocks being repaired by him. And then buy the right epoxy.

Old school USGI stock repairs were done with a hole being drilled through the crack, a brass rod driven through the crack, then sanded smooth and refinished.
I've done it myself a couple of times on guns that weren't worth a replacement stock. Done right, it'll outlive the rest of the gun.

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Often it's not a rod.
Armourers used brass screws then filed the remaining flush.

>grab few nails
>get wood glue
>cram wood glue down in cracks
>clamp the stock tight
>drive in the nails and use sandpaper to smooth it down
>use oil or something to cover the nail marks for protection

Now you got a functional german ork rifle

I've done this with a Turkroach Walnut stock on my .22. It split when I had difficulty extracting the action after bedding.

Not the best looking finish I suppose, but it's solid, does the job and looks workman like and there's something to be said for that. I'm not a woodworker and it's not a finely made, fancy rifle.

What the armorers did for stock repair back then might not actually be good long-term as compared to other, possibly more modern, methods.

Get a stock made or make one yourself.
The question comes down to expense.
How much are you willing to pay?
Coin solves some things better then others.

this

Listen carefully OP. Do not use wood glue. That shit works for furniture where impact isn't a big deal. Wood glue sticks great to wood, but is dogshit at sticking to itself. Always use Epoxy. Brownells acraglas is considered the industry standard for reapirs, but devcon 2ton epoxy works fine (its just expensive in bulk). You could probably use any epoxy that takes atleast 2m to set and has atleast a 30m working time (Time until it starts to polymerize and the hardening process starts).

External brass screws won't be required unless you want it to look like an unskilled armorer did it. But you will need to reinforce those cracks with screws, Go internally until it crosses the crack and binds them together and acts as a bridge for recoil to travel across.

This will not be a simple day fix. You will have to drizzle epoxy down the crack, and gently open and close the crack by hand until it pumps the epoxy deeper and deeper until it preferably bubbled out of the other side. Once its fully through clamp it or use some rubber tubing to compress the crack together and let this sit for atleast 24hr to cure.
After 24hr you can go back in, tap the rear pillar down, and drill a long hole that you will screw a brass allthread (solid brass rods work fine too, just rough them up with a grinder or something) down until it crosses the break, cut the end off and dab epoxy over it then tap the pillar back for an invisible repair.

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this user again

This crack will need a very good repair as the recoil lug sits directly in front of it. make sure it is very clean in the crack. dump denatured alcohol down it to dissolve any oil and let it dry. Drizzle epoxy down it and work it in the best you can by forcing it shut and opening, repeat until the epoxy is fully in there.
Cross braces are required, its your choice how to do it. a brass pin or two through the side would be visible but would ensure it is supported, but this would be visible from the outside. You can also tap out the lug and come in from that side and go at an angle. its not as strong but will leave it invisible form the outside. Dab epoxy on the front and tap the recoil lug back in so it makes maximum contact with the repair and it should hold stronk

I have done multiple repairs, so don't hesitate to ask. Its a pretty daunting task if you don't have all the tools or don't know where to start

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It looks like one continuous split to me. It absolutely needs to be joined back along the whole length. In fact, I'd put a joint/pin around both ends of the split at the minimum. You might not be able to see how far the true splitting has occurred under the surface, so better be sure than sorry.
Doing this so it's not visible from the outside will be harder.
It's an old spanish mauser, it doesn't matter if the repairs are apparent, as long as they are well done. In fact, some repairs will add some charm to it.

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a tip from a gunsmith
this is your friend
just because you see the crack doesn't mean that's where the crack ends

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Bicycle innertubes wrapped around it extremely tightly. And wood glue isn't flimsy. Wood glue is stronger than the wood it surrounds assuming you're talking about proper wood glue like titebond III. You'll sheer and crack the wood before you break the joint. That being said Epoxy is even stronger than that, so go ahead and use epoxy if you so desire.

Shear*

Could be. The front web in front of the trigger guard still isn't necessary. but if you're going in might as well fix it. I couldn't see a crack on the flat surface under the tang so i assumed it was a seperate crack starting at the inletting.

This stuff works great. I do not recommend it on these particular cracks as the gel doesn't flow very well and thus won't get to the root, but for giant splits (like broken off toes) this works amazing.