How bad is it to dry-fire guns?

I'm a recent noguns converted to hasguns and from consuming gun media (gun-jesus and C&Rsenal mostly) I've noticed that they don't like to dry-fire at all. I was educated in guns by fudds and they didn't say anything one way or another about dry-firing. Is the aversion from dry-firing in the things I've seen due mostly to the pieces demo'ed being really old and/or loaned or is there a major mecanical stress put upon the action that isn't there if it has a cartridge in the chamber?

(sorry for unrelated image, am stuck miles from main computer due to easter)

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scatt.com/
laser-ammo.com/
dryfiremag.com/shop/
benstoeger.com/dry-fire-drills
whiteoakarmament.com/dry-fire-device.html
youtu.be/o9iyRq4sJ7s
youtu.be/0dyE1x8nMwA
youtu.be/-bNEMW_6Gt0
forums.brianenos.com/topic/187225-protecting-your-firing-pin/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Rimfires and antiques, no no no, literally everything else, yes yes yes. You want to practice dry firing safely so you get in the habit of checking your chamber and not wiggling the fun around when you squeeze the trigger

Dry firing is fine with more modern guns, dont do it with rimfires or older guns though or you might break something

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What would you consider bad to dry-fire when it comes to antiques? I'm considering picking up a relativley cheap but okay looking mauser rifle whitch would be from 1940 if you go by serial number and why is it bad to dry-fire rimfire? Have only handled a .22 bolty boi once.

It depends on the gun
Which gun OP?
Some can be damaged
Some it won’t hurt to dry fire

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Is this bait

It really depends on the gun. I'd say most DA/SA pistols don't really give a fuck if there's a bullet in the chamber when you squeeze the trigger, same for Glocks or a Revolvers. I'm not an expert on the matter but I'm bumping your thread out of interest.

It's not all of them, it's just that if you're going to encounter a gun where dry firing it could, say, warp the firing pin or damage the frame somehow, it's likely going to be an antique or something you don't feel 100% safe holding in the first place anyway.

Not bait, just that I'm not from a family, place or country that has that great a gun culture and want to be 100% that I don't fuck something up, I'm working from a base knowledge of litterary nothing.

1940 probably wouldn't be considered antique for most people.

The question is can you buy a replacement firing pin? Yes, dry fire away if it breaks it breaks buy the new 1. No, be careful then.

In that case, the reason you don't dry fire .22 is because the firing pin has to slam into the chamber to make a crimp and set the round off, normally it falls on an empty chamber and all the force is absorbed by it like a bow with no arrow

In the media that I got most of my mechanical knowledge of guns from they simply never dry-fired, an air-rifle and some nerf guns I had when I was younger I was instructed to never dry-fire and so I guessed that actual guns might have a problem as well.

Ok, thanks for clarifying

It still depends on the specific firearm
You must dry fire a Ruger to disassemble. Ruger’s website indicates their 22 LR guns won’t be damaged by dry fire.

There is literally no reason to ever dry-fire a gun, so why do it to begin with?

No, you won't break the gun if you do it a couple times, but why are you even doing it at all? It makes no sense.

You are an idiot

>There is literally no reason to ever dry-fire a gun
Oh really.
Dumbass

First, you need to pull the trigger then pull the slide back about a quarter of an inch. Bring your take-down levers down then pull your top barrel assembly off. Set the barrel aside.

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DUMBASS

>gun-jesus
he's a Gun-Judas you dumb fuck. Never mention that commie on here again.

That one guy who hates Ian has found his way to this thread as well, say hi to the most dedicated man on Jow Forums everyone.

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Dry fire device for an AR for Service Rifle practice pictured. Drops into mag well and you reset the trigger without having to break cheek weld when prone.
Works with laser ammo and other training systems like SCATT.
Learn something.
scatt.com/
US Olympic team and the Service Marksmanship tema use it.
Good for pistols.
laser-ammo.com/
Glock dry fire magazines here
Don't work with laser ammo though.
Kind of expensive @$99.
dryfiremag.com/shop/

Use a plastic drywall anchor for a 22 LR snap cap.
I have worn out trigger return springs from dry firing so much.
Ben Stoeger's books and dry fire drills.
benstoeger.com/dry-fire-drills
whiteoakarmament.com/dry-fire-device.html
Think that covers it.

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>scatt dot com
im deffo not clicking that shit

You've got the right attitude at least. Good for you.

To answer your original question, it depends on the model. Older rimfire firearms will break very quickly if dry fired. Modern designs will not. If you're not sure about whatever gun you eventually buy, ask in one of the QTDDTOT threads.

Crazy name aside, it is legit.
Old system, actually invented in the 90's in Russia.
It is pretty much the world standard now.
If you like Russian Aesthetics you'll like this older video.
youtu.be/o9iyRq4sJ7s

You literally dry fire a 10/22 every time you empty a magazine.

I've heard dry-firing CZ 75s are a no-go

Enjoy your damaged guns, retards.

>his gun takes damage from dryfire
What's it like to be poor and buy low quality guns?

Trigger return spring gets weak around 10,000 pulls.
CZ Custom sells an improved spring tested to beyond 25,000 pulls and still has proper tension.
$7.50 part due to low volume of production and better materials.
Routine maintenance like magazine springs .
Most people will never wear one out.

Really all dry firing slowly does damage but modern handguns and rifles use much better and less varied metallurgy due to the nature of massively improved steel production.

So what age a gun is isn't the only indicator. Some regional production is worse than others.

I've seen Nambu and Astra pins crack and fly across rooms at gun shows etc.

The big thing is just try not to dry fire unless you have to on collectables, because why are you really doing it except to test function? For modern/defensive, you can buy replacement parts anyway so go nuts drilling.

Other issue with CZ75B firing pin block models is that the firing pin retention cross pin in the slide can crack. The firing pin itself can also get peened to where it slightly flares out to a slightly larger diameter and can drag inside the firing pin bore in the slide.
A 75B firing pin has two elongated cuts across it long axis, one for the firing pin block safety, and one for the retention cross pin.
Best video on the subject here.
youtu.be/0dyE1x8nMwA

Older Pre B, 85 Combat, and Shadow and Race guns don't use a retention pin and are similar to a 1911 arrangement with a sliding plate.
Another decent video.
youtu.be/-bNEMW_6Gt0

Use a Snap Cap or put a tiny rubber 5/16" O ring in the rear of the slide cut over the pin to cushion the hammer blow.
forums.brianenos.com/topic/187225-protecting-your-firing-pin/

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