So If I go scavenge mountians of brass from my local outdoor ranges, how do I know if there are any shitty cases unfit for reloading that I picked up?
How can i tell the difference between 223 and 556 cases? 9mm mak vs standard USA 9mm?
Sorry, Ive never reloaded and im a cheapskate.
Don't be a brass Jew, pls
Fucking brass jews
>nobody around
>brass lays there for days
>stealing.
Ok fags
gas yourself jew
Kill yourself nigger
>cheapskate
buy pic related. Reloading is usually dumb.
and apparently, ruger is getting ready to make a 22LR revolver for under $250, so there's that, too
Thats fucking stupid.
So is ruger, and 22.
And you too.
You look at the headstamps on the bottom of the case for caliber info if you can't tell just by looking at it. Run a magnet on them to make sure they're not steel if you can't tell just by looking at them. Make sure the cases don't have any splits at the neck or a part of the rim ripped off or huge dings or anything.
99% of the cases you find will probably be good to go unless someone was using a gun that really fucks the brass up.
Bump
This, and make sure you've got a flat surface and a ruler or something so you can easily separate out similar cases with different lengths
Ive never seen 223/556 actually marked with the caliber.
Its usually a bunch of letters with a + and a circle around it.
>how do I know if there are any shitty cases unfit for reloading that I picked up
Cases that aren't brass or nickel plated brass shouldn't be reloaded. Berdan primed cases technically can be reloaded but it's a big pain in the dick and you shouldn't bother. Google search "reloading pressure signs". If the brass has fucked up primers or bad ejector marks you shouldn't use it. If it has any cracks or severe dents or bulges you shouldn't use it. If you have to second guess whether or not the brass is okay, don't use it. Brass is cheap, guns are expensive.
>How can i tell the difference between 223 and 556 cases
Don't bother sorting 223 and 556. Just use a moderate 223 load for both and you'll be fine. If you feel like you really need 556 loads manually sort out the 556 brass by headstamp and use them.
>9mm mak vs standard USA 9mm
9x18 mak is 1 millimeter shorter than 9x19. You could stand the cases on end and pick out the shorter ones.
Thanks user. A+
Also, do you happen to know the differences of 556/223?
As in the powder/Fps?
Yes, we all know 223 is a shorter case.
I ask this question once a week and nobody seems to know.
There's books on reloading. The internet is also gaining popularity though I don't think it'll catch on.
> too stupid to reload
> too stupid to even realize reloading is expensive
> poo-poos actual good poorfaggotry
you deserve alll the bad things that are gonna happen to you
.223 can handle up to 55,000 PSI and 5.56 can handle up to 62,000 PSI. Look up Hodgdon reloading and buy a reloading manual for specific loads. Also, you should buy or pirate QuickLOAD for load development/checking.
ain't jack shit different between them but you'd know this already if you had the IQ of a white lab mouse.
You're in over your head here.
Get out now before you lose a finger and rage at children on the local airshit field, you middle-aged no-personality turbonig honkey.
that's all you can afford, with your few dollars and the only thing you're smart enough for with your few brain cells.
honestly I don't reload for .223/5.56, it's cheap enough that I just buy it in bulk, I don't reload 9mm for that same reason
I reload the more expensive shit like .45-70, .25-06, .22-250, .357 mag, and even 7.62x51 / .308.
What is with the jew obsession it seems you spergs are always screaming about jews. I don't get it
No real difference between them besides pressure. I'm sure there are plenty of loads that can safety interchange between both of them. If you've got an automated or semi automated setup you can funnel all your unknown/to lazy to figure out .223/5.56 brass through creating a slightly cheaper than bulk plinking ammo. Honestly I suspect you don't shoot enough to justify reloading to start let alone get into progressive presses, but whatever.
Thanks faggot, now go fuck yourself with your stupid opinion.
Yes, but its really fuckin hard to get 223/556 in vmax or softpoint for under a dollar a round. If I can get that down even 10-20c, ill take it.
Ah, yeah buying .223/5.56 hunting ammo is expensive. I just use 55gr fmj's in my AR for hogs and it works fine for that but I won't go deer hunting with that ammo.
Why hogs and not deer?
Is 223 not strong enough?
Because I have 1000 rounds of 55gr FMJ for the AR and don't want to buy expensive hunting ammo for it when I have 5 other guns in the safe with good hunting ammo on the shelf for them. I did buy a box of 100 62gr soft point remanufactured ammo for my AR that I can use for deer hunting but I'll usually just use my .45-70 or .308 if I'm actually trying to hunt deer. I stand hunt for deer and the AR is mostly for night hunting hogs on foot.
Also, my preferred shot on hogs is a neck shot and for deer I go for a heart / lung shot. The 55gr bullet is great for neck shots but if I go for a heart / lung shot and end up hitting the shoulder I'm not sure how well it would do, I'm sure the deer would end up dying but it might run a long ways and the 55grain bullet probably won't have an exit wound going through a buck's shoulder so there wouldn't be much of a blood trail to follow. If I was going to use the AR for deer then I'd choose a heavier bullet in the mid 60-70 grain range that's designed for hunting.
That being said, my dad uses an old bolt action .222 Remington with 50gr bullets and has killed many deer with it so it WILL work, I'd just rather use a little heavier bullet is all.
>recycling is bad
Retardsz
This is why I shoot berdan primed brass cased milsurp. Fuck your depriming tools.
>leaving your fucking blue light filter on for screenshots
Visual inspection and measurement, get yourself a reloading guide. But you probably just want to buy some good brass of your own and reload it over and over.
>t.felon
Some boot has to count those for the report.
>How can i tell the difference between 223 and 556 cases? 9mm mak vs standard USA 9mm?
holy shit you have never seen an actual bullet.
Then you dont shoot it much or buy a variety. 223 is often marked REM 223 or 223 REM. Circle with cross is NATO. Learn to read head stamps.
If you collect it all you turn into the brass golem who terrorizes the steel-caselets
It says it on the back of the case retard how new are you that you don't know that? Please don't get into reloading you will 100% chance blow yourself up.
wolf softpoints are 20cpr and most sp besides gold dots will frag when they hit something in 5.56.
Vmax I can understand
>62gr soft point
Serious question, since most of these will fragment, wouldnt it be better to hunt with fmjs? Unless youre going for neck shots (popular in my area with certain loads and very reliable kill shots with these loads) that is
copper monolithic like a tsx or one of the slower fragmenting bullets like 75gr bthp
5.56 normally wont be labeled "5.56" but rather have a small circle with a cross inside of it and "L C" for lake city.
Also, youll notice your primer pockets on 5.56 especially seem too small. It's because theyre primer crimped. You can drill the crimp out with a few seconds of slight pressure using a VLD style neck chamfer deburring tool
midwayusa.com
Get a powered one that you can stick the deburring part in. It's worth it.
Difference between the vld style and normal is just that the vld style is longer and less angled.
The entire point of softpoint is that it doesnt fragment and that it wads into a large single call of lead that hopefully tears through in a well selected area in a clean shot.
It doesnt in most 5.56 loads. They pop. Watch youtube ballistic gel videos.
~softpoint~ by design. Not 5.56/2.23. Any slower fragmentation that would occur to 5.56 carries energy better homie; that is the entire point of 'softpoint'. Try to keep up.
Watch youtube videos of your load you fucking nigger. Theres a good chance it doesnt do what you want it to
m.youtube.com
m.youtube.com
m.youtube.com
m.youtube.com
>b-but my 270 soft point does!
well it's probably not the same design of softpoint.
Most 5.56 SP break up and barely get 12" of penetration even without bone.
Retard. The idea of the softpoint is better stabilization during flight and (even if for a moment longer than other rounds) flattening before fragmentation to impart more fucking energy transfer. Try to keep up you fucking moron.
Stupid faggot.
You could just melt it or cash it in to but ammo