Gun Cleaning: The Good, The Bad, and The Dumb

certain synthetics dont.

NEVER USE CABELLA'S CLEANING PATCHES!!!

I used a bunch of Hoppe's cleaning patches that came with my kit. I thought all cleaning patches were like those. So I bought a huge pack from Cabella's. Big mistake! The Cabella's brand is useless. They come apart as I use them! Wet, dry, makes no difference. They come apart all over the gun and leave strands everywhere. My Hoppe's patches did not do this. I ended up throwing the Cabella's away, and now wish I had some Hoppe's non-shitty patches to clean my guns with >:(

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There's alot of silica in wood products.

How are you getting copper fouling out with CLP and a boresnake?

ballistol is a godsend on guns, knives, and anything else you might use it on. id recommend buying some grease and you have most case and bases covered

Got any examples? I'm all for cheaper safe alternatives.

Simple Green and Mobil 1.

I always thought it was pronounced as "hops", "hop pees" sounds stupid.

Grease lubricates better than oil.

this +1000, it's good for metal, wood and leather. Truly the best jack-of-all-trade, master of all.

Baby wipes are great for an initial wipe-down and for guns that shit copious amounts of carbon everywhere (looking at you, G3).

I use Break-Free CLP, Windex, Q-Tips, soft paper towels and Hoppes 9 for my cleaning setup. Basic but effective.

By leaving the clp solvent in the rifle for an hour or more. Never had a problem. If need be, i might buy the next calibre up to assure a very very tight fit and so the brush on the snake hits the barrel good.

Anyone have a good way of cleaning out the lug recesses on bolt guns?

Hoppes 9 is a great solvent, Ballistol is not a great solvent but can do everything. Pick up a quality .22 and .30 one piece coated steel cleaning rod, they are worth it. Bore guides arent necessary, but are far from a meme. Ballistol is a great protectorant (it stays in place), and Remoil is a great penetrating oil, both suck at the others job. Jags for applying solvent, brushes for scrubbing, jags for cleaning up, mops are stupid. Get one of those oil impregnated rags, or keep an oil soaked rag around and wipe down your gun EVERY time you touch it. At least here in Alabama, everything rusts immediately.

I do a field clean on my rifles after every range trip, and do a proper cleaning like never.

Field:
>boresnake
>ballistol

Home:
>One-piece coated steel rods and a bore guide
>brass jag and brushes
>Hoppes No.9
>cloth patches, you can buy packs of 100s for cheap on Amazon

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>sticky

>never use any paper towels to clean guns, even blue shop towels. Their abrasive properties will almost immediately scratch finishes, even matte ones
Are you jesting?
I've used the cheapest brand of TP to clean my funs forever and they are fine.

He's not. I use a foaming bore cleaner that removes copper after every 500 rounds or so. Spray that down the barrel and then clean other parts while it works. Chamber brush it out and then it's hoppes infused patches alternated with dry patches.

I use old underwear (tighty whities)

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>Anyone have a good way of cleaning out the lug recesses on bolt guns?
I use lots of cheap aerosol oil and wipe with cheap TP. It is soft enough to get into the nooks and crannies of my 6.5mm Mauser.

>6.5 Mauser
....?

And I cant get my finger into the recesses, I've used qtips but they also cant reach the backsides of the trunnion.

When shooting corrosive surplus ammo, flush bore with hot water, agitate with bore brush, then flush again.

Clean with whatever solvent you prefer, the oil with whatever you prefer.

Corrosive ammo doesn't require any magic spell to clean or any special snake oil.

As long as the salts left from the primers are flushed out with the water you're good to clean as normal.

I only shoot Romy surp from my Tok. After a range trip I strip it down, run the barrel under the sink, put a bore brush through it, run it back under the sink, and wipe the guts off with a wet towel and reassemble.

Don't buy rape tier rebranded "gun" oils, that said I do use ballistol, I like to just hose my guns down scrub, and rinse it all of with a 10% ballistol to water mix, no rust,no issues, and it takes me at the most 5 minutes to clean several rifles.

Wd-40 is a decent moisture displacer and so-so penetrating oil. It is not a very good lubricant.

toothbrush

Only the spray can gets gummy after a very long period of time, the non spray they sell in a can never gums up, WD40 is great for guns, the boomers are wrong.

>heard shit meant for vehicles lets off carcinogens when your gun gets hot enough.

Non used motor oil is non toxic, used motor oil is toxic, that's BS, 3 in 1 is a household oil and is completely safe, it's basically mineral oil with perfume in it.

the "corrosive" part of corrosive ammo is the primer, so there isn't even that much corrosive material deposited anyway, 90% will be in the barrel and get blown out the gun, the other 10% will be in your gas system.

I just wipe my shit down with baby wipes and punch out the bore with an aluminum rod and brush. Alternatively, garden hose and air compressor. I'm not really particular about solvents since I clean it off after use but I try to use non carcinogenic lubes just to minimize my future cancer. Depending on where you live what type of lube you use can definitely be an issue but mild climate makes it easy for me.

Also don't use normal simple green on your guns if they have aluminum parts, that shit corrodes it and you need to get the aircraft formula (check amazon).

I've never experienced gumming up like people say but I use the liquid, I clean with hot water and soap then give the parts a dunk in WD40 liquid, leaves a nice thin coat.

I've been using nothing more than ballistol, toothbrushes, pieces of old t shirts, the bore brushes and rods that came with my guns, and a chopstick to clean and lube my guns for years now. They have never rusted and are clean as a whistle, all of them. I also throw in some silica packets I've saved over the years for storage. People buying all this random gimmicky shit just waiting their money

also great for leather

>drop any pistol parts and small rifle parts in the ultrasonic, dry and oil

Jej

>chopstick
for what?

CLP and hoppes no. 9. All you need.

I've been using some surplus Rifle, Bore Cleaner recently. It's 70's dated and is basically just government Hoppes #9.

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Some of those boresnakes comes with hops9 and their lube. That's all I use chemicalwise. In my clean kit I have an old toothed brush, boresnakes, a bunch of patches and plastic picks. Everything runs great.

You should have some wooden or plastic sticks just to get in those nooks and crannies that you cant get your fingers into.

B A L L I S T O L

Swedish Mauser is 6.5x55 and probably the nicest and most accurate surp guns you can get.

>wisdom
Most guns don’t need more than a one pass brush and patch barrel cleaning, some lube, and a wipe down if you take them out shooting every week.
>gimmicks
Anything that promises what sounds like bullshit

I've used several. Ballistol is great for general purpose use, but does not clean as well as I'd like. Great for wooden guns though since it actually protects the wood.
If you want general purpose, canola oil is your thing. I use cooking grade stuff to clean my knives, works wonders and most expensive stuff like Fireclean is really just canola oil with additivies. Not worth the 1000% price increase.
I've also used gear oil on some occasions, and other people swear by engine oil. Nice thing here is that you can pick the thickness you need, according to how much film strength you want.
However, the best all-purpose cleaning, lubricating and protecting agent I've ever used was pic related: PX-10. Dad was an armorer during his conscription, and he had several cans of the stuff. It's supposed to be highly carcinogenic, highly toxic, kills babies right dead, but damn does it work. He had a metal cigar box in which he'd presoak cleaning rags with it, and you only needed a single pass through the bore to clean it, then to run some dry patches through to pick up whatever oil was remaining (with all the gunk now contained in the oil). Absolutely brilliant, but since our MOD got sued over this stuff it's hard to get. The new S-761 and S-758 are supposed to be good enough, but I don't trust non-carcinogenic chemicals to be either non-carcinogenic, or good at their job.

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There's some for sale for cheap at my LGS, does it also lube and protect, or is it just a cleaning agent?

CLP for a light cleaning or a rub down after the range. Carburetor cleaner and 10w30 for a serious clean and lube.

is that really how you're supposed to pronounce it? I'm just gonna keep saying hops anyway.

OP asked about cleaning guns, specifically having basic materials.
WD 40 is a cheap, easy to apply solvent to clean firearms.

Jow Forums WHAT GUN LUBRICANT IS BEST FOR SUB FREEZING TEMPERATURES?vv!b!???

>Has anyone noticed the ridiculous anecdotes that always spill out when it comes to gun cleaning products? Like if you don't use this BRAND NEW HIGH VELOCITY EDIBLE LUBRICANT your gun will explode?

Seems pretty normal to me. After all, ads tell us that if we don't buy brand X clothing or drink brand Y beer then we're not real men, but if we do buy brand X clothing and drink brand Y beer then the ladies will be all over us.

hoppes bore cleaner
ballistol
tub of cheap grease
cleaning brush
bore snake
rags

grease is not better in fast moving areas. Someone had a chart

cant it also be used to treat wounds in some scenarios?

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Use aircraft grade simple green to clean. Its non toxic and you can buy a gallon on amazon for like $15.
Use whatever oil who gives a shit it doesn't really matter on most modern firearms.
Tbh you don't need to deep clean anything and 90% of users don't even need to clean their bore.

Can I just use a dab the same lithium grease I use on my tractors? Because I have cases full of that shit. I also have a lot of waterproof bearing grease used for packing wheel bearings.

I prefer bore squeegees to patches

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I use Hoppes no 9 and CLP or whatever other gun lubricant / protectant I have on hand usually. I like the smell of the Hoppes.

I usually just run a boresnake through my guns bore (hoppes applied to the first brush, CLP applied to the cloth after the last brush) after I go shooting and wipe down the exterior of the gun a little. If it was really dusty or wet / rainy when I was shooting or hunting then I'll break the gun down for a real deep clean. I went to a skeet shoot benefitting a local charity a month ago and it rained on us for 2 hours during the shoot (all outdoors, 10 stations set up in a large field with no overhead cover, they did not stop the shoot because of the rain) and all of our guns got soaked. I'm pretty sure I was the only one on our team who did anything more than wipe down the outside of my shotgun and spray some remoil in the chamber / bore afterwards. I did a full teardown and deep clean once I got back home. Everyone else was wondering why their guns kept malfunctioning during the shoot... It's because they treat them like shit and put them up dirty and wet after going duck hunting. Lots of light strikes and failures to eject.

LSA-T

Nah bud. RBC is just for cleaning. The stuff used alongside this for lube was LSA. I have a big thing of that stuff too. Works great.

this is peak faggotry
imagine how your gun feels when you shove a silicone ridged dildo down its bore

The old Hoppes no9 smells so fucking good

yes

>never use any paper towels to clean guns, even blue shop towels. Their abrasive properties will almost immediately scratch finishes, even matte ones

What kind of finish do you have on your guns? Clay? Or are you mistaking paper towels with sandpaper? I have an easy trick to remember which is which. Paper towels has a space in the word, sandpaper doesn't.

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Well if the gun is anything like me, it feels pretty gud.

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I just used eezox and if a gun is really dirty I'll use bra-kleen and go ham on it.

and there it is.

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Throttle body clean is great for cleaning. Not carburetor cleaner, or brake clean unless you want wood and plastic to melt. Throttle body clean is gentle enough to not fuck plastic and wood, but it's strong enough to quickly clean build up. Plus it's like 4 dollars at any parts store and you should have 2 cans if you have a functioning set of testicles.

Atf is the best lubricant that isn't sperm whale oil.

Mechanics rags or just old shirts with high cotton content work fine for patches, but a bore snake is better since the brush is built in.

Both should work just fine. I've used them before.