80% Polymer Glock 17

What's the motivation for doing so? It sounds like you're deliberately trying to make things harder on yourself.

>>OP doesn't own basic tools
Do you even know how to use those tools user?
Any hardware store will have those.

Take your time, use a dremel. You'll probably need to do fitting, which is made easier with a Dremel

I have a dremmel, cordless drill, assortment of stone files, razor blades, sand paper. I do not have a drill press or a bench vice (mostly because I do not have a bench). The reason is, I want to show others who believe tools to be the hang-up, that they can do it.

>I have heard this is doable without a drill press.
I believe there are 3.2 million video's doing it without a drill press give or take a few thousand.

I saw someone completely fuck up the channel cut with a drill press so I decided to use a bastard file and round file. Followed up with sandpaper and then some wet sandpaper just because I'm picky as hell.
I didn't use snips or a Dremel because I wasn't in a hurry. It's easy as hell, just take your time and don't set a time limit for yourself. It's a project, not a race. I was honestly trying to make a day long project out of it and it STILL only took me 2 hours.

The only reason to do this is for the fun and excitement of it. Personally, I'd rather just buy one made from the factory.

easiest way to do the tabs is to deeply score them with a box cutter and snap them off.
The barrel channel is a little tougher. I just take my time with a round file, and can have it done in about 20 minutes.
If you make a mistake, try using picrelated from Home Depot.
I messed up a safety selector hole on a poly 80 AR and it’s still fine 2 years later

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Yes. I did it with an X-acto knife and cordless drill, because I used the newer variant with drop in rear/front steel rails. The older models had a plastic rear rail that required you to use a drill press and X-Y vise to correctly cut.

For the latest versions like I used, with steel rails, you just need to whittle down the placeholders until they're level with the rest of the frame, and you just drop the steel rails in, secure them with a pin, and you're done.

Can anyone recommend seller? Or are they all the same?

I got a kit from p80builder, the Kiss-X to be specific. Just a vanilla G34 clone

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they were like $75 back on black friday, I think

You want to teach others, yet you don't know how to do it yourself?

Technically all you need from that lot is the Dremel and the drill.
Best way to do it is to use end nippers though. Just snip off the bulk, clean it up a bit with the Dremel, then sandpaper to taste.

Everything in this thread is BULLSHIT op, The lower costs enough on its own. dont go Buying more things making it more expensive. Just use friction to wear down the necessary bits, Rub it with your hands to get the excess plastic off

>hands
If you're not doing it with your dick, you might be gay.

Exactly. He wants to prove that even a gay retard can muddle his way through it.

just finished my build last week and planning on a test fire tomorrow.
just to check, as long as I didn't fuck anything up and there's no obvious damage to the frame, there's not a chance of a glocknade, right?

We have teeth for a reason.

Thanks brew. I'm not OP but I was looking into this just last night. Looks like I can save a little money and they already have the sights installed, which is nice.

Hand cycle it a few hundred times or you're going to spend your entire morning fucking around.

The glocknade meme was more of a slide problem that allowed gas to leak into the frame, unless you've gouged a chunk out of your barrel dropping it in or something you should be fine

There is a 100% chance of glocknade with every and all glock products, including glock parts that aren't made by glock.

Not necessary IMO. If the slide moves freely on the rails, and the recoil spring isn't rubbing in its channel, it should be good to go with no break-in period; mine have been.
If the slide doesn't move freely, or the spring is dragging, you should identify the problem and fix that with actual tools, not try to break it in by manually cycling.

(The trigger is another matter, of course, and will usually benefit from cycling, whether dryfire or live.)

Correct. That was the "ready mod". Which doesnt have texture on the handgrip. Its completely smooth

Do any of you proof test your P80s with high pressure cartridges prior to shooting? You should always test fire with at least some +p or +p+ rounds prior to shooting normally just to make sure.

I know where to get them for $100, but will only share if someone finds be a G19 Slide for $120ish dollaps

I couldn't get the front pin hole you don't drill to line up with the front rail holes. Would JB Weld work to bed the rail in place?

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How about $99?
kaplunmfg.com/product/kaplun-glock-19-slides/

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DUDE I FUCKING LOVE YOU user

I hate to admit this, but yeah, minus the gay part. I think this would be a great way to get more people on the gun train. Not everyone on here is a fucking Navy Seal.

>I know where to get them for $100
We're waiting....

armorally.com/polymer80/?v=7516fd43adaa

Click add to cart, then itll be $99.99 plus shipping

Domo.

Interest p10 bump.

i used a pair of wire cutters,(dykes) and a file.
dremel would have made it easier
youre putting too much thought into it.
its fucking easy

I did two with only those two. Take your time and finish it off with sandpaper.

It helps to actually have fired a Glock before, because I hadn’t so I was unfamiliar with how everything was supposed to look

Bump since theres actually useful websites by a couple of anons this time around

Bump
Did one with a small, sharp wood chisel, round file and cordless drill

which LPK do you guys prefer? Glock OEM? Lone wolf? P80?

No that's fucking retarded

They all seem to be about the same except for the trigger

Only need to finish the slide and it's yours

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How easy is it to put a finish on the slide?

Can someone post a link for a 10mm?
I’ve only found one, and want to see other options.

I used a Leatherman for the rails. For the guide rod block I used, I kid you not, a pencil in a drill wrapped with 320 grit sandpaper. Apply light pressure on full speed and it'll work itself away.

It’s all about surface prep
I’ve used some AlumHyde2 from Brownell’s. It works great on a clean, warm part with a light cure inna oven
I used MEK to degrease

I use end cutting pliers for the rails and a dremel.

Could save yourself more money if you buy that $100 lower, $100 blank slide, and a Combat Armory $50 barrel.

Any anons with experience; I'm interested in an 80% lower, but there are multiple choices. Which one is best for ergos? I wanted to like Glock but I was much more accurate with other pistols.
I'd be interested in a 80% build but I can't find any IRL. Do people sell them at gunshows? I just want to hold it before I buy it.

They are all the same, just subcom, compact, full size, etc

Let's assume I've got a barrel, slide, and 80% receiver. What more do I need to turn this thing into a functional weapon? I see plenty of Glock parts kits out there, but their contents all seem to vary.

upper parts kit and a lower parts kit

so there's literally no difference between a stock glock grip and the 80% builds?

I think if you are smart. Best you can do is $550. Im assuming the average is $600. And thats just stock parts.
To start customizing. The slides alome can go as high as 350

Thank you.

No, there’s basically no difference between the P80 variants

No. The polymer80 has a finger cut groove near the trigger guard. And different grip texture.

A followup question if I may: Let's suppose I want an aftermarket trigger. What additional parts are in the lower parts kit, and are they available separately?

The entire point of the polymer80 kit is to avoid the problem of buying a Glock 19.
Then spending twice that amount in modifying the trigger, barrel, slide with lightning cuts. Etc.
Just go with an apex trigger. No point in building a stock G19. You shouldnt trust a polymer80 for personal protection. Its intended for Gucci builds.

store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Category?categoryId=23

>not being lazy and pretending you did it for two-tone aesthetics
But you'll also need all the small parts. Which is alright, because two-tone only actually looks good if you use a silver trigger and so on to match the slide.

No, the polymer80s are completely different from the glocks, but barely different from each other at all outside of grip length.

Yes, everything is available separately.
Look at a kit like
lonewolfdist.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=922262
There's a list of contents -- those are the parts you'll need. Make sure you have one of each part (whether Glock, Lone Wolf, or any of the other aftermarket brands), and you'll be good to go.

Similarly for slide completion kits, if you want some parts different than whatever comes in a standard kit.

Watch your prices, though -- if you only care about one or two minor components (e.g. only the striker spring in a slide kit), it may turn out cheaper to buy the whole parts kit plus that one extra part, rather than piecing together everything from individual parts. Just because you're more likely to find the whole kit on a good sale than every single part on sale at the same time.

Why? All manufacturers do it.

That thing looks sexy af.

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Thanks user.

How are they? I’ve been wanting to order from them for a while.

$450 including shipping for a 80pb G19 is pretty good for price.
$439 MSRP and $10 for flat rate

Dude, just buy a drill press. They're like $100 on Amazon. It will be 100% worth it.

Nice cheapo fountain pen. I think I have the same one.

Can one get by with a Dremel tool?

ty
It’s a Lamy Vista, just the clear version of the Safari.
I did mine with a box cutter, Gerber and small round file in about 45 minutes.
Use a hand drill for the holes. P80 specifically says to NOT use a drill press for the holes

You're an idiot. There is a massive difference between a polymer 80 AR lower, and a Glock 80% frame.
You absolutley need a drill press for a AR lower. A dremel is used for a Glock 80 build. Drill presses are not recommended to be used for side cutting. Only milling.
Thats what a router is for!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(God, this site is filled with retards)

Thanks once again. I never really wanted a Glock, but now I'm mulling it over.

I'd trust a P80 Glock for personal protection, after the break in period it's flawless.

Bruh did you expect anons to actually know what the fuck they're talking about here?

the glock lower was pretty easy
is the AR lower more difficult?

are you retarded?
like litteraly. posted here for years. posted pics of ur “guns”

u are litteraly a noguns

Right on. I was probably gonna do a 19 frame and get basic rmr cut slide that they just released

AR polymer lowers are easy to work with and great for getting into building ARs. All you need is a Dremel & set, drill, and vise.

Aluminum imho is harder to work with unless you have a drill press and router.

Fuck yeah, it is. The 80% AR lower isnt about saving money. Its about capability.
Its hard. It requires a drill press and a router. And specific bits for side milling.
I mean if you want it to function correctly.
And not look like complete shit.
Also, that hole for the buffer retainer. Has to be spot on. If you fuck that up. It will scratch up the face of your buffer. Mess up the holes and your trigger wont mount right.
Not impossible to accomplish. But lets be honest. It requires a basic comprehension of shop carpentry skills.
It also requires a jig. None of its cheap.
Id say $300 to buy and complete a 80% AR lower. Jig, Drill press, router, vacuum cleaner, 80% lower. Drill bits (capable of penetrating 7075-T6 aluminum. Cutting oil. A work bench.

>P80 specifically says to NOT use a drill press for the holes
Why is that?

Because you don't drill all the way through.

The nylon guide will actually just barely engage the drill bit as you go and self-center the bit for a perfect hole.
If you use a drill press, it’s too rigid and that won’t happen

I did mine with a drill, a clamp, and a couple files. Came out with a couple of dings but it functions flawlessly.

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Okay, I don't even know where you are supposed to drill. I don't have one, I'm only lurking and mulling this over for the future.

That makes sense. I bought a drill press because it was on sale and I still haven't used it. I don't know what to do with it.

i would only get aluminum for an ar
nice, sounds fun. i have everything but the 80% lower and the jig. id just need to look into painting it up

>where to drill.
Thats why you buy the 80% lower with the red jig. It literally has the holes pre drilled out of the jig

Nice

Hey. You can try a 6060 T6 alluminum 80% lower. Its nearly as strong. And alot easier to work with.

Total cost? Maybe I have been over pricing this is my head

i just need a good bit, my press is old and pretty nice.