Is this fine to run in an AR? I hear mixed things online...

Is this fine to run in an AR? I hear mixed things online, but some people say that its perfectly fine and have run thousands of rounds through their ARs no problem.

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You can't find better ammo than that.

>some people say that its perfectly fine and have run thousands of rounds through their ARs no problem
People lie all the time online.

never used it, but from my own opinions the issue comes from people not cleaning their gun after shooting steel.

Or being powder light as a cost cutting measure and not pushing out enough pressure to reliably cycle with some guns.

If your AR cannot run tula/wolf/steelcase you should get rid of it
Obvious exception for "match" rifles with autismo chambers

Steel case has been known to be an effective ward against brass jews for generations.

i have an aeroprecision upper. anyone have experience with running steel cased ammo through one?

>not using aluminum so they can't pick it out with a magnet
You must always keep one step ahead of brass Jewery, user

But I have...I have a $3500 gucci ar that only gets fed 62 grain jew rounds but my > $500 ars only get tula cause I can buy 5000 rounds for 13 cents a piece. I have an Olympic ar that I bought in 2011 with the rifling blown out that I've shot an estimated 50000 rounds of steel cased out of. I don't even have a charging handle on the thing because it's so worn out it eats milspec charging handles and I ain't puttin a fuckin raptor on it.

But I have. I have a $3500 gucci ar that I only feed 62 grain jew rounds but any ar that's sub $500 I feed steel cased tula to great effect. Buy 5000 rounds for $.13 a round and you've got tons of cheap range trips with a nice lower and your trigger of choice. I bought an Olympic ar in 2011 and I've put around 50000 rounds out of it with nothing but steel cased, the rifling is blown out and it's eaten 3 milspec charging handles but it still runs fine.

My cheapass M&P15 eats it right up. I don't know about putting it through anything actually nice tho

Wouldn't 50k rounds of pretty much anything have that effect though

lmfao based

how the fuck do you destroy a charging handle i've never had this happen

>light on powder
This isn't a thing

Uhhhm the first time the roll pin of the latch came out and due to it not locking forward it broke off the front end that goes around the gas tube, the second time was a combination of mortaring it due to rusted tula, and the latch not locking due to excessive wear in the latch catch on the reciever, the 3rd was solely due to the upper being so worn out that the charging handle would not lock forward and ever few shots the latch jumping the catch and the bolt slamming it forward, since then I've just been splitting the upper, dropping a round in the chamber and then firing until the end of the mag and making sure not to drop the bolt again until I load another mag. But other than the one time I used a bunch of rusted tula I've never really had a problem with the ammunition, if you are going to long store it soak a towel in oil and roll the ammunition in it. Other than that it's gtg

Uh depends on the barrel and how you treat it. The Olympic that has its rifling blown out has been pretty much mag dumped every time it's been shot and it had a stainless steel barrel which does not hold up compared to other finishes. I also have a chf chrome lined noveske barrel on a $2000 ar that I've put around 30000-40000 rounds through but at a very slow methodical rate, and meticulously cleaned after every outing, it has only barely begun to show wear and you can barely tell the difference between it and the chf chrome lined noveske barrel on my $3500 ar that has a sub 2000 rounds through it

If the gun can run it it’s fine for practice but that’s about it

It's fine for basic target practice.

It’s bad for the internal components. Only bolt action rifles are suited for steel cases ammo.

>shoot brass coated steel case ammo at known jew range
>MFW he spends 30 mins picking up my cases
>MFW the scrapyard bans him once they run a magnet over his alleged brass and ban him for fraud.


got em.

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so do you think itd be fine to run some on my average aero ar? Im wanting to get that BUDGET option

There's alot of feeding and running going on here, how was operator school

It's shit, but it's cheap shit. I'd avoid it and go with Wolf, either their steel or brass case if you need cheap ammo.

I ran the .357 magnium in my gp100 and all the rounds expanded so much that I had to by a new cylinder. Luckly I didnt get any squibs. never buying tulammo again its garbage ammo. buy wolf if you want steel cased.

I shot some steel tul in 30-06, and .308 and 45. Never again in rem 742 woodsmaster or ar10 Garbage. Steel is really only ok in an ak

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luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/

as always, YMMV

Some ARs run with steelcase ammo, some don't. Try a few boxes and see before you buy a case.

Understand that even if your rifle tolerates it, you will need to clean more frequently, especially taking care to clean the chamber with a chamber brush, because the cheap Russian steelcase is dirty AF and the steel cases don't expand to seal the breech as well as brass does, so carbon will build up in the chamber much more quickly--and the AR, with its relatively lightweight bolt and carrier, that has the buffer as a separate recoiling mass, has always been more prone to extraction problems than other designs designed to run with steel from the ground up (*cough* AK *cough*).

It may or may not be perfectly fine in your gun. Run 200-300 rounds and see.

it runs but its trash. you just shoot for area coverage not precision

runs perfectly fine. if your ar cant run it but mine can, then obviously its your ar thats the problem

For some reason I can't run Pmags with steel case ammo. Haven't tried USG aluminum mags yet though.

>thousands of rounds through their ARs no problem.
>except for all those times i had a problem but they don't count
Is basically how people justify it.

I have an AR556, and it runs fine, it’s not even “dirty.” It’s steel so clean your shit after you shoot, but it’s the cheapest there is and makes for fine plinking.

NO MORE VIDEO GAMES STEPHEN

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ruger? so my mpr is good to go?

meh i run steel exclusively

If your AR can't run shit ammo- get a REAL rifle like an AK.

For the price it’s perfect. You’ll save money by wearing down your barrel and replacing it running this ammo through at its lower cost of the ammo in the thousands it’ll take before you replace a barrell

Agreed

Yeah the Ruger AR-556, I should have specified. You will be fine. I don’t know if I would not stake my life on the stuff but like I said, it’s fine for plinking. I went through 1000 rounds over two weekends and I think I had 3 FTFs.

yea, not staking my life on it. btw, when your gun was new did you have issues with charging? shit was harder to pull than a compound bow(had to play with the action for hours to loosen it up). not sure if good or bad.

No but I assume you could just get a lower buffer weight if you're going to be shooting loads known for being light

I have problems with it as often as I have with cheap domestic brass ammo. That’s how I justify it.

luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/
Tula is objectively the least reliable steel cased ammo.

Tula is a plant in the former USSR. Their ammo has been imported into the US under several different brand names, usually, but not always, in black and red boxes.

Wolf in a black box? Tula. "Tulammo?" Tula. Century "Red Army Standard" in red boxes? Tula.

Just based on what I see left scattered on the ground at local ranges, Tula appears to export more 7.62x39mm and more .223 to the US than all the other plants in Russia and Eastern Europe combined, and a metric shitload of 9mm, too.

It oughta be fine but clean your guns well after shooting steel cased, ESPECIALLY your breech. The biggest issue I've come across is tiny amounts of rust on the steel case caking up on the breech and causing stuck casings. But if it's a cheap rifle, might as well save money with cheap ammo, and if worse comes to worst it'll still kill the crap out of someone.

The reason it doesn't have enough power to reliably cycle certain guns like ARs isn't because they're light on powder, it's because steel doesn't expand as well as brass and therefore doesn't form a good seal, so some gas escapes rearward.

As with every gun, it's in your best interest to try a range of different types of ammo to see what your gun loves and hates. Nobody can answer this for you, even with the same model of gun. For example, I have a 308 bolt gun that is so in love with 168gr rounds that shitty 168gr hunting ammo does better than 150gr match. It's literally trial and error. Buy a few boxes and see what happens at the range.

The general consensus is that it’s harder on the intervals of your gun and your barrel.. People always say the money you save buying steel you can buy a new bcg and barrel when they take a shit. And if you have quality of both it’ll be thousands and thousands of rounds before either takes a shit, regardless of the ammo

Most all the Russian steelcase .223 is pretty underloaded, famalamadingdong. Like 2700 ft/sec from 20" barrels with 55gr plinking ammo underloaded.

I bought a thousand rounds just to find out it short strokes on my AR. I could always use it in a 5.56 bolty boi though

it's not that slow but through my chrono the tula I bought is definitely slower than wolf I normally shot. the 62 gr tula was only around 2700 fps in a 16" and would even shortstroke the gun, 55gr was between 2800 and 2900 if I remember correctly, and the only wolf Ive used is 55gr but was ~3000 fps.

Nothing is that slow, not even Tula.