How to fix cracked stock

Checking out his vids, seem to confirm most of what I've heard.

I haven't taken the gun apart yet so I don't know how deep it goes. I understand what you mean tho by making sure it's broken all the way for a stronger bond.

So it's all just sounding like a good strong epoxy should be able to fix things. Thanks anons.

Yeah, I was going to suggest using epoxy too.

If you use acraglass get the gel in the blue and green box. It's a lot easier for a novice to handle if you haven't used epoxy before. I would go for a full break, use dowels to pin it along it's axis, acraglass it and refinsh the whole stock.

look up guitar headstock repair
just gluing it won't do, you'll need a few extra bits of wood in there to secure it all

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When say full break, we're just talking about the section cracked and not the whole stock.. Right?

Also is there a major difference between brass pins and wooden dowels for the end result?

Well if you had a very valuable top grade walnut hunting rifle it would be well worth the time, cost and labor of fixing it. However you have a shitty old SKS that you can easily buy replacement stocks, both original & new. So unless you feel like undertaking a very large, pointless but semi-educational project I would just buy a new stock.

>So unless you feel like undertaking a very large, pointless but semi-educational project

That's what I'm all about, friend. Why I'm asking so many questions, I find it useful knowledge to have, and like you said, stock isn't worth much, so less worry if I fuck something up.

if you stick with wood splines you can match the material, and grain of the stock, maple, walnut, birch, ect.
I would also go for a carpenters wood glue like Titebond. modern wood glues are pretty much as strong as epoxy for shit like this.
>When say full break
how deep is the crack? can you get good tension bracing / compressing the crack?

you might get away with injecting glue deep into the crack with a syringe and clamping the fuck out of it. the other way is to break it completely and remove any splinters, then set it. either way, your gonna need a long clamp to close that crack, and maybe make a jig for the clamp to grab onto

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PS
the wood splines create more surface for the glue
brass pins only help guide / set the joint

Sounds good, user. I should be able to dig deeper tonight and see how deep the crack really goes. I recently gained access to a full workshop worth of woodworking tools so I'm confident I can figure out the clamp situation if need be.

Gotcha. Was hoping to use brass because I like the aesthetic of them, but if wood is objectively stronger I'll go with that.

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I was feeling jipped for getting a fucked stock but now I'm kind of excited I got a project. Thanks for the tips anons!

good luck man, and take your time

Thanks m8. I've got a snapped in half mosin handguard sitting on my desk as a reminder to take my time. Haha, I'll do my best to slow down on this one.

>somehow broke a garbage rod
I need details

It's just the top handguard, the thin piece seperate from the rest of the stock. It was covered in grime and I was scrubbing a little too rigorously while holding it at an angle and bracing it against my desk, so it snapped in half.

There was really no other possible outcome from my stupidity. I immediately rushed to ebay to get a replacement. I felt bad because it was my first surp rifle and all the parts were matching before that.

This is, word for word, exactly what my first thought was. I applaud your genius user.

Conversely, if one does not want to bubba the gun, ebay has many listings for wooden sks stocks but all the cheap ones seem to have some rather intense bidding wars underway.

ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m4084.l1313.TR2.TRC1.A0.H0.Xsks wood stock.TRS0&_nkw=sks wood stock&_odkw=sks stock

Call me sentimental but I'm going to consider swapping out the stock as a last resort. I just like the history and character this one has. I'm sure the machine spirit within could tell stories for days.

But if I end up needing to dress him up in new clothes, I'm getting a jungle stock.

Fair enough.

Pre-drill screw holes, get the extra long screws and driver you'll need. go ahead and break it enough to get the epoxy into the break then drive in screws to tighten the pieces. Watch You Tube Vids before they are black-holed

>I'm sure the machine spirit within could tell stories for days.
What makes you say that?

Is it split on both sides? If you remove the action can you separate the split pieces? If so, drill 2 or 3 holes on both pieces that line up, say 1/4" or so and put glue inside, then wood dowels. Use bungees or similar to keep it tight until it dries

I'll find out tomorrow, unfortunately got held up by storms and didn't get home until late. It's completely caked in cosmoline and I want to get a bit off before I take it apart.

What's going on with Youtube? Seems like that's going to be the case though. The break and dowel/screw part that is.

Chi-Com vietnam era. Part of the lot classic has right now. There's a wide variety of damages done to the stock, it's definitely been used extensively.

When gluing long grain to long grain with modern glue like Titebond, the glue joint is actually stronger than if it were one piece of wood. That crack is going across the grain, so you won't get a satisfactory repair by simply gluing the two halves together. You're going to want to splice in wood. Easiest way is to find places where you can drill straight holes through both halves so that you can pound in hardwood dowels with lots of titebond.

Don't use wood glue....

Nonononononono no no!

Fill it with some kind of 2 part epoxy or resin, throw some wood putty in the crack, sand it down and stain it to match

I've seen worse things fixed with a good wood epoxy. Then lacquer it and most people won't notice it. It's only a big deal on an antique.

Don't use woodglue, this is a job for epoxy. I'd use Acriglas as that's what Mark does on C&Rsenal along with Larry Potterfield on Midway's channel. I'd drill holes on either side of the break and put in dowels (left to right from this view). Make sure to get epoxy in the dowel holes before inserting them and get it on the dowels themselves. Wipe away any squeeze out and make sure it doesn't open up as it's drying.

Not sure how you're going to get the two halves of the break away from each other without breaking the other side/whole stock. Maybe use a flat piece insert method on the inside of the stock like suggested? Don't really know how you'd do that, though, unless you're doing it from the outside of the stock.

Turns out it went all the way through.

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Bore looks good though! Can't tell if it's shiny or not right now but I can def see strong grooves. Guessing this was used more as a club/spear than a gun.