Do you guys stake your castle nuts ?
I was shooting my ar the other day and the castle nut worked itself loose, I torqued it on, and then three range trips later it had worked itself loose.
Tightened it back down and staked it,
Wondered if you guys experience this and what you do about it? Loctite? Stake?
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Stake it or get a PWS with the detent so you don't have to worry about it.
Bump for curiosity
loctiting seems to work just as well as staking
That’s a cool endplate, haven’t seen those before
Oh good, one of my castle nuts isn’t mil spec and doesn’t have a cutout to stake it with.
It seems you have a Transylvanian castle nut. Good work, staking is the best policy for those!
>pic
Wait, that’s how it’s supposed to be done? You mean it’s not supposed to look like a monkey smashed a flathead screwdriver into some random spot with a rock?
Mine worked itself out after 500 or so rounds. I torqued it and staked it. Never had a problem 1000+ rounds later
loctite
Military specification is to stake it in two places. A 3/32" center punch is a cheap investment. Loctite should be fine.
As long as there is deformed material going into that little notch.
Can recommend the PWS endplate. Works well, hasn't loosened up, and comes with a QD slingpoint.
I used blue loctite.
This, degrease threads and just drop enough to cover ONE thread of blue loctite, I’ve never seen one come loose and is usually difficult to remove.
i stake it. i also use a paint pen for witness marks (on optics mounts as well) so i can visually see if its coming off
t. ruined lower
Of course I staked it. It's right there in the manual, why do so many dumbfucks think they know better than the manual?
>loctite gang
Yeah, I almost get that. I still don't see what you hope to gain by using loctite instead of staking, but at least you look at the manual and think "This procedure A clearly exists to solve X, so X must be a real problem. I don't wanna do A, so I'll address problem X by doing B instead". This is the thought process of a human being.
What I really don't get is people like OP who pretend if they ignore the problem, it will ignore them. Then invariably act surprised when it bites them in the ass.
It's not even some difficult procedure, or some esoteric supply like a specific threadlocker that nobody has in their garage. It's less than one minute with a centerpunch and a hammer; how can anyone possibly be such a lazy subhuman as to look at that and say "nah, I'll just hope it stays put"?
I bought a rifle kit, and then put it together. No instructions come with the thing.
Once I noticed there was an issue, I looked up what to do about it, then made the necessary changes.
I didn’t ask you how to do it, I just wondered if it’s what other guys on here do.
Aaaand another thing,
Why the hell you using a hammer?
Get a spring loaded center punch. They’re wonderfully handy.
>no instructions come with the thing
info.publicintelligence.net
>writing all these words just to have other people look at them say "Heh, what a fag"
being really angry and acting superior about putting 1 object on your rifle isn't a personality
Thanks! Never read through it, stupid me should have probably started there
jfc..... never use a binder when threading two different metals. Enjoy you're fucked lower. You're supposed to GREASE/ANTI-SEIZE the castle nut threads, then torque to ~35~40 ft/lbs. My rifle has a greased castle nut and was PROPERLY torqued down, no staking needed. 4k rounds through the rifle and my sharpie marks are still perfectly aligned.
Related question: how do you unstake one? I want to swap a couple of them on my lowers but one came staked.
I have 2 and don't even know what staking is desu. I just tightened them tight.
>having a castle nut at all
locktite or stake it twice.
ive even used super glue before.
yes
Use a punch to drive the metal a way from the stake cut, then put it in a vise and start turning. Nbd
>unstake
You don't. Just wrench it off.
>"Stake my castle nut? Sorry, I have a fixed stock."
It’s whats pictured in the pic attached to op. You deform a bit of metal from the end plate, so that it prevents the castle nut from moving.
This. They are great.
The only thing is with a tube that doesn't have the detent wings its a bit hard to get it to line up, but you can figure it out.
Do not use a threadlocker like Loc-Tite. Vibra-Tite does almost as good of a job without locking the threads, potentially damaging parts during removal.
dont put the locktite in the lower, grease that, but you could put a drop of blue toward the back of nut to the tube after the tube has been threaded into the lower and if it fucks up its just the cheep tube and not your lower because no locktite is in the lower threads or am I missing something?
I’ve used superglue instead of loctite I’m more than a few things. Or masking or painters tape wound around the thread.
Anybody know what magpul slathers on their screws? Some sort of putty but that shits great
>threading two different metals
The receiver and extension are both Aluminum, though they are two different grades.
Ya these guys don’t realize you use drops of loctite, not coat entire threads. Holy fuck that causes problems when you do that
AR pistol owner detected.
...
The castle nut is steel.
Sometimes.
the castle nut is steel. You don't torque the extension in the lower, but you do torque the steel castle nut.
They pre-treat the screws with Vibra-Tite and then let it dry. It can also be used conventionally, adding it to the threads and immediately fastening them.
>The castle nut is steel
Yes, fren, but it does not thread to the receiver - which was the crux of:
>Enjoy you're fucked lower
from
Center punch Stake + perma blue = factory new.
Sweet, thanks. I bought a Chinese mlok swivel mount on amazon and it didn’t have anything on the threads, had to improvise.
you can still warm up blue to release it to be easier on the parts, my 1911 trigger screw gets locktite but the alen screw is so small ive striped one out before, so if i need to remove it I just warm it up with a heat gun for a few seconds and comes off easy,
Do the same on my user serviceable titanium can, its a screw on and rear cap use to unscrew when removing from the gun, I just let it cool down before taking off gun and it works great, and just heat it up when I want take the can apart
I used to use the fancy clear shit at work but I have been told that the VC-3 is almost as good (at a much lower cost than VC-6).
You can heat an Allen wrench (hex key), insert it into the screw, and let the heat wick into the screw if you are scared of overheating the part.
You must have a very fragile ego if you assume that anyone pointing out a better way to do something is "acting superior"
It is objectively true that staking the castle nut it better than not staking it. Pretending that both options are equal is just a cop out.
If loctiting worked as well as staking, the manual would offer loctite as an alternative. It isn't, so it doesn't.
>if stoner thought the bore needed to be chrome lined it would be
The AR-15 predates the development of modern threadlockers.
I think that the original spec predated widespread use of threadlockers, but not the actual existence of threadlockers.
....Fuck you talking about? I remember in Armorer School that you need to stake M16s as well and those had fixed stocks?
Not him, and I vaguely remember this being true in the manual, but I do not recall ever seeing a fixed M16 stock staked IRL. The fixed stock has more layering of torqued items and is far less prone to problems with unraveling.
A) No it doesn't
B) It predates the development of the M4 as well, and yet there is a TDP for those.
Point to where I mentioned Stoner in the comment you replied to.
Hint: Stoner didn't write, nor did he ever maintain, the TDP.
>Stoner didn't write, nor did he ever maintain, the TDP
IIRC, Sullivan's team did that - and he is essentially forgotten.
this is the only reason i havent replaced my end plate with something with a sling mount
i dont want to fuck with unstaking and restaking the castle nut to get it off and on again.
but of course, im a dumb lazy bastard
>hurr durr loctite will destroy ur receiver!!
Why are you so dumb? Legitimately.
Wish I knew this 2 years ago when I popped both tritium vials in a rear sight.
It sucks to hear that. Regardless, for the future, you just keep reheating the key and stabbing it into the socket of the screw. You will not wick enough heat to free a truly frozen screw but you can melt Loc-Tite to free a threadlocked screw.
Its all good I had a backup for it. Learning experience.