Revolver fags, I got an old S&W as my first handgun because it was $265. I'm a little daunted by the DA trigger...

Revolver fags, I got an old S&W as my first handgun because it was $265. I'm a little daunted by the DA trigger. It's actually quite nice for its age, smooth but very long and very heavy. I find that the front sight blade shakes whenever I'm aiming and trying to pull the trigger. What can I do to git gud?

Attached: IMG_20190628_202419424-01.jpg (4160x2171, 2.38M)

Other urls found in this thread:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_&_Wesson_Model_10
thesurvivalistblog.net/smith-and-wesson-model-10-review/
youtube.com/watch?v=EFYn5KChBvo
youtube.com/watch?v=WyuWY3NU3e8
gunbroker.com/Revolvers/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&mfg=1000259&mo=3001877&Condition=4
youtube.com/watch?v=X1nu5SWdV4E
youtube.com/watch?v=gEHNZFTfSD8
youtube.com/watch?v=BaiGSDiaI_w
youtube.com/watch?v=CEHtRkyTe-0
amazon.com/Tipton-Snap-Caps-Special-Magnum/dp/B0048KFHKQ
youtube.com/watch?v=_W9tH9ZfWCs
bkgrips.com/?page_id=12
youtube.com/watch?v=A0nUJePqV_U
gunsprings.com/SMITH & WESSON/K, L, & N FRAME/cID3/mID58/dID264#447
store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191686
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

yeah

Based
Drink less caffiene and eat better so your hands don't shake.

Dry fire practice and actual shooting. Pistol shooting works a weird fine muscle group in your hand that pretty much nothing else does, it just needs to be trained a bit and get used to pulling the trigger without the sights moving.

If you get good at shooting that DA. You’ll be able to shoot anything

>What can I do to git gud?

First buy another newer revolver(that vintage piece is old and shouldn't be used to do the amount of dry firing you need to do to git gud). Second buy some snap caps. Third do a metric fuckton of dryfire practice.

Slowly pull the DA trigger keeping the front sight steady. Release the trigger at the same speed as you pull it. FULLY RELEASE THE TRIGGER. You don't want to get into the habit of short stroking. Don't try to go fast. Speed will come with time. Do a little practice everyday. Don't try to keep going once you get fatigued.

Dry fire it a lot and make sure you're pulling the trigger correctly. If you're doing it right, there should be little to no left/right movement as you pull. The only way you can eliminate shaking is by practice, which means a lot of dry firing.

>that vintage piece is old and shouldn't be used to do the amount of dry firing you need to do to git gud


Model10 autist here. That user is right. That gun is old bro. like probably 70-80+yrs old. Check the serial number. It probably doesn't have a letter in front of it but see if it's above 316648 which is when they started heat treating the cylinders. If it's below that number only shoot super light "cowboy" loads in it. You got a sweet piece bro but it's not really a good trainer to snap the hell out of a million times and shoot a high round count with.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Smith_&_Wesson_Model_10

thesurvivalistblog.net/smith-and-wesson-model-10-review/

youtube.com/watch?v=EFYn5KChBvo

youtube.com/watch?v=WyuWY3NU3e8

gunbroker.com/Revolvers/search?PageSize=96&Sort=4&View=1&mfg=1000259&mo=3001877&Condition=4

www.thesixgunjournal.net/a-revolver-buyers-checklist/

youtube.com/watch?v=X1nu5SWdV4E

youtube.com/watch?v=gEHNZFTfSD8

youtube.com/watch?v=BaiGSDiaI_w

youtube.com/watch?v=CEHtRkyTe-0

Attached: 1556918806293.jpg (1287x994, 596K)

Oh I should clarify that if your serial number DOES have a letter in front of it than it's gtg for any 38 you wanna feed it even +P(not a shitload of it though).

It's 404650 so safe to shoot, but I do understand it to be a bit of a relic. Also based model 10 autist, I didn't know you could speak

Your gun is like 1920s-30s vintage. You'd have to get a letter to know for sure.

1915-1942...........241,704-1,000,000

Whelp that may explain why it was $265. I can't straight up buy another gun, not for a little while. I do have snap caps tho, pic related

Attached: 15617734655241442404197.jpg (3120x4160, 1.44M)

It takes practice and time to master a double action trigger pull.

It’s the only way.

Attached: D535D4D8-3E0C-46F5-A982-318E9B056555.jpg (1536x2056, 746K)

That's actually a really good price for a gun of that vintage with that much original finish intact and period correct grips. You did good.

Okay I'm not trying to shit on you because I know you're a noob but I'd recommend you getting the kind of snap caps with the brass "primer" that is spring loaded. They will be much gentler on that old hammer mounted firing pin because they move. I've had guns batter those aluminum kind to the point the rim separated from the case which means it was getting fucking pounded.

amazon.com/Tipton-Snap-Caps-Special-Magnum/dp/B0048KFHKQ

When are you going to commit and become a trip fag

Trip fags are of the devil. I am doing the lord's work.

Attached: 15b5b4c8ecdba7464cf08ed1c7c06bc7.jpg (983x1024, 192K)

Attached: 1899B.jpg (2431x3206, 1.5M)

youtube.com/watch?v=_W9tH9ZfWCs

Attached: hammer-block-comparison.jpg (1500x433, 318K)

Round front sight. Half moon grips. Patrician as fuck. Get a grip adapter for max hand sex.

bkgrips.com/?page_id=12

Attached: 100_2568.jpg (2048x1536, 910K)

The hero we deserve

If that was mine I'd take it apart, clean it and pack the internals in grease. Model10 autist post has a disassembly vid in it. If you're too pussy to take it apart at least take the sideplate off and hose everything down with CLP. DA trigger might improve a little if it's just dirty in there.

If you do decide to take it apart(it's easy) make one of these to help. You don't need it but it does help.

youtube.com/watch?v=A0nUJePqV_U

Based Model 10 poster strikes again

gunsprings.com/SMITH & WESSON/K, L, & N FRAME/cID3/mID58/dID264#447
best 15 bucks I ever spent

the tension screw on the mainspring doesn't need to be all the way in. back it out until you get light primer strikes, then tighten it back until you don't get light primer strikes anymore.

DA shooting requires constant sight adjustment as you pull the trigger. Slow and steady adjusting the sight picture as you pull. If you just watch the front sight shake around as you jerk the trigger, you are going to miss every time. Snap caps and dry firing is good practice but do it with a target.

>the tension screw on the mainspring doesn't need to be all the way in. back it out until you get light primer strikes, then tighten it back until you don't get light primer strikes anymore.

This is shitty advice from a faggot who won't put in the work to git gud. There is zero fucking reason to ever loosen the mainspring tension screw and if you loosen the mainspring too much the gun can bind. Build muscles instead of fucking around with the tension screw.

Oh, and nothing wrong with an 80 year old revolver if the timing is right and the action solid.

Attached: 4ABA0237-B70F-4C05-8598-89BF01BCE19D.jpg (2592x1936, 942K)

no, there is zero fucking reason to overtighten the mainspring.
there is also zero reason to have a heavier trigger return than necessary. that part is personal preference: my favorite is the 14lb spring.

>overtighten the mainspring.

The screw is designed to be screwed all the way in. That's not "overtight." Also if you want to really get fast at DA trigger work a strong trigger return spring is crucial to not short stroking. Jerry Miculek runs +power trigger return springs. There is no technological substitute for putting in the work to build the proper muscles for consistent DA trigger work.

Like I said, it's personal preference.
if you love 20lb triggers because "muh muscles" there's nothing wrong with that.
But the extra weight is not mechanically necessary as long as the hammer is heavy enough to always ignite the primers, and the trigger return is heavy enough to do its job.

I handload and practice a little every day. I get the best accuracy and speed out of a lighter trigger. I'm sure I'm not the only one who does, looking at the market for reduced power springs.

>I'm sure I'm not the only one who does, looking at the market for reduced power springs.

Reduced power springs is the right way to tune an action. Top revolver competition guys combine reduced mass hammers and reduced power springs to get lightened pull weights while retaining reliability. Loosening the tension screw is not the way to tune your action.

store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191686

I would just figure out where it breaks and ride that/only worry about sight alignment too hard then but I suck at DA.

Yeah that's called "staging" and it's not good technique. You want to pull consistently without stopping through the break while maintaining proper sight alignment.

Based.

Attached: 1528249116235.jpg (234x261, 30K)

>Loosening the tension screw is not the way to tune your action.
it's not the only way, but it does lighten the pull, and as long as you don't overdo it is still perfectly reliable.

go back to the link here and see they offer one pack with three weights of return spring and two weights of hammer spring. if you want a reduced weight, but you still want your screw tightened all the way down you can get the reduced power spring.

Do you know anything about early smith autos? I got an original model 59 I've been trying to get a date on

Attached: 20190120_000422.jpg (4032x3024, 3.45M)

I'm pretty sure if you reduce the mass of the hammer you'd need to increase the power of the spring. The trigger pull would be heavier but the lock time reduced.

Attached: Dillon_S&W_Model_39.jpg (1337x984, 530K)

>Also based model 10 autist, I didn't know you could speak

Hahah, I am equally disturbed as pleased by this.

Attached: dafuq.png (300x302, 59K)

when the fbi still used revolvers agents weren't allowed to fuck with the tension screw. who knows more about shooting people the fbi or some idiot on the internet?

Thanks for the tip Jow Forumsanon

Nice I'm guessing it's an early 70s model as it still has "Pat's pending" on the side

Attached: 20181009_184913.jpg (4032x3024, 3.77M)

I also removed the hammer release lever and firing pin block from my Beretta 92.
I'm pretty sure no organization that issues them allows that either, but it sure makes the trigger a hundred times better, and allows condition 1 carry to boot.

gtfo

Nope. Reducing the mass of the hammer means that for the same weight of spring it gets propelled faster so mass x velocity = how hard it hits.

lol what has triggered you so bad about my fitz that you are compelled to respond every time I post it?

Attached: 100_2564.jpg (2048x1536, 829K)

Just got this out to the range. I love it . Just found a holster that should work too, and will get some speed loaders. Revolvers are fucking based

Attached: 2345432543.jpg (2048x1581, 325K)

>What can I do to git gud?
Get rid of it and buy a Glock. Revolvers are obsolete.

Attached: revolverfagsbelike.jpg (500x587, 86K)