Pic related sells for $6 an ounce at O'Reilly Auto. Is it really worth it?

How do you apply grease in a tub without making a mess?

Just smear it on with your fingers and smear the excess onto your pant leg you absolute woman.

same

with gloves like a civilized man

>Good enough for a motor at 7k rpm
I do agree that motor oil is a decent gun lube. But the chemical composition of the oil is optimized for internal combustion engines, and the friction and wear going on inside an engine at 7k rpm is totally different than the mechanisms of a firearm. Good gun oil like in the OP is better than motor oil

This

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I would concede if you explain how metal rubbing on metal in a motor is different than metal rubbing on metal in a gun. I'll take the lengthy scientific version please. Hard Mode: explain why I haven't had an issue in over 10 years of regular use.

I'm not the one you replied to, but one difference is that the temperature in an engine is controlled, whereas the temperature of a gun fluctuates wildly.

>amazon.com/Mobil-Mobilgrease-Aviation-Grease-MIL-PRF-81322/dp/B00G3BTV5A/
link related seems to be the equivalent of one type of gun grease. any anons have experience with this?

lol'd

I fail to see how that makes a difference. Regulated or not engines aren't always one temperature either. Coolant is what usually stays in a limited range, engine oil works dead cold, and in a motors usual range of 190-220f.

I'm not saying it will cause issues with the gun if you use motor oil. Using motor oil on guns is perfectly adequate for lubrication. What I'm saying that oil specifically designed for use with firearms will have a chemical composition that's better suited for firearms use. For instance, oil viscosity might be thicker in gun oil, or it might have additives that make the oil more resistant to direct contact with environmental contaminants such as dust, dirt, and powder residue. I'm not claiming to have an in depth scientific analysis of different oils. But it is logical to assume that an oil which has been engineered for a specific type of application (firearms) will out-perform an oil that's optimised for a different purpose (IC engines)

lol'd again

Engines start out cold, but they heat up in a few minute and stay at a constant temperature. In the old days, you were supposed to let the engine heat up first, but Americans are too impatient for that, so gun manufacturers started designing engines that could start up and go immediately on the coldest winter morning.

Gun temperature, on the other hand, is all over the place depending on how much you shoot and the size and shape of the gun.

my 1911 usually runs about 2000 degrees celsius because I load thousands of mags and burst fire it as fast as I can reload
that's why I only use GUN OIL brand GUN OIL

Under normal conditions, guns don't get that hot, but there are shooters who literally have to shoot with oven mitts because they overheat their guns so much.

cool story bro

So you'd pay 10 dollars for an ounce of oil, because it's logical to assume. With no real scientific evidence you can present, if any exist at all.

Really. Even if you were right, you've failed to present a reason beyond logical to assume.

At the end of the day, burned carbon is burned carbon. Engine oil is completely able to deal with that presence. 0w40 sticks fine as far as viscosity is concerned, I will admit I played with some different weights to start.

I'll stop hijacking thread and let you guys get back to discussing if paying 9 dollars for Brand X of 1oz oil is "worth it."

What does anyone need a "gun grease" for? Normal lithium grease maintains a film despite literal thousands of tons of pressure bearing down on it.

Think of it this way. With a film of grease between perfectly flat one inch surfaces, you cannot squeeze the film of lubrication out even if 300,000 pounds of force were squeezing them together. This is why grease is better than oil for guns.

>gun manufacturers started designing engines
Sorry, I meant car manufacturers.

>Normal lithium grease maintains a film despite literal thousands of tons of pressure bearing down on it.
It also turns into burnt sludge when it gets hot.

I use Rem Oil. Never had any problems with it.

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hee hee so tiny and adorable

Might as well not use any oil at all. Rem oil is thin as air and provides almost no lubrication. It's also a piss poor solvent.

so which grease is better, because grease is absolutely better than oil

grease =/= oil

I am not gonna slather grease all over the bluing of my guns, that is simply autistic. A light layer of gun oil is perfect for preventing rust

poverty oil

grease on moving parts oil on everything else

Just use bearing grease. It's cheap and will last quite awhile

i prefer ren wax for rust prevention

u got it, bucko

Corrosion X is the best you can get, It has a .40MM wear scar which is really damn good, and it's one of the best rust/corrosion protectors on the market.

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Your right, a cars lube requirments are way more harsh then a firearm, so motor oil is indeed better.

Wow you’re so smart with money. I’ll bet you save $17 over your lifetime buying a quart of motor oil instead of a small, easily stored in a range bag, bottle of oil.

>just overpay for rebottled automotive industry products goy.

kys

Product in OP is literally worth the money just for the convenience of the applicator. Pic related is the fucking SHIT for greasing gun shit like slide rails and every other motherfucking thing. The tip puts it right where you want it and that shit does not run it stays there lubing your shit while you do shit with that shit. I have a stash of 6-7 which I hope is a lifetime supply because they don't sell it anymore.

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no. and those bottles suck too.
get this

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grease is roughly 90% oil. smear some around with your greasy fingers then wipe the outside down with a paper towel. enough greasyness will be left behind to prevent rust.
t. greasyboi

You can get those kind of bottles empty from a place called commando products oddly enough

that thing looks retarded, just buy a 3 pack of the HDPE needle point bottles at brownells, being HDPE you can safely put hoppes 9,kroil, and some other harse solvents in them safely.

>dies of Teflon flu

No.
amazon.com/Ballistol-Multi-Purpose-Oil-Aerosol-spray/dp/B004ERKCIA/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=ballistol&qid=1563457771&s=gateway&sr=8-2

Ballistol is the final solution to the gun cleaning and lubrication problem. Plus it smells good.

3 in 1 will forever stand as king

Why is Ballistol not sold in stores? walmart, academy, cabelas fucking no one carries it. You can get hoppes anywhere.

It works but it stinks like shit. I hate the smell of it.

This
It's machine oil, not axe body spray

>It's machine oil, not axe body spray

Right but I handle my guns and don't want to have to immediately wash my hands 3 times because of the ridiculous ass smell which is why it's not my 1st or even 5th choice for a gun lube product.

cleaning and lubrication/protection are different use cases with different requirements and it is simply not acceptable to try to combine them

You know you can put motor oil in a small bottle...right?

You realize that if you're not poor you can pay for convenience right?

>it’s the jews trying to steal my pennies
>I’m the only one who figured it out
Good for you, user. You’re really showing ‘em.

Literally wasting money on oil rather than ammo. I seriously hope you dont do this.

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t.guy who's buying commercial gun products.

WD40 and 3 in 1 lubed and protected firearms for over half a century, time tested.

>t. buying $6 bottle of oil keeps him from being able to afford ammo

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>teflon
Enjoy your slow and painful death

6$ 1oz or 1qt.

>why wont you just waste $6, it's only $6, just waste it bro.

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I've used all of those, as well as Fruglube, CLP, Hoppes oil, and a good deal of other fancy looking oils I've seen on display. I generally use them until I run out or lose them. 3-in-1 was just because I was in the middle of a move and it was all I could find for storing a pistol I had just bought.
They all performed basically the same, though I did have 3 cyclic failures when using the Lucas oil over the course of a year, and never experienced that prior to or since I stopped using it. I don't blame the oil, though I can't really think of any different variables that may have caused them. My takeaway here is that it probably doesn't matter what you're using in the grand scheme of things. I generally buy CLP because it's cheap and I've never had any issues with it. OP is a faggot for starting this thread.

My dad bought me a bottle for the fourth of July and gave it to me at a party last year and I've been using it since. Best oil I've ever used. The applicator is great, the consistency is great, the performance seems to be great, isn't at all irritating to the skin like clp, and the smell is just that perfect "not so good you want to inhale it but not at all bad." Couple this with a good grease and carbon solvent and you've got all the cleaning solutions you'll need.

10/10 will buy a second bottle in a decade or two.

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Sorry for being such a dirty phone poster.

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>CLP

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Never change Jow Forums

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holy shit small bottle, you got fucked alright, should of bought a quart of mobil 1

$6 bottle of oil that will last months/years vs $6 of ammo that will last seconds...user, I...

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Or buy literally the same shit off eBay for even less.

I'm probably going to regret sharing this publicly but... oh well here goes. My dad was a mechanic in the Army way back when, and this mysterious dude a rank above him taught him just about everything he knew. One of his best and most secret tricks for working on cars involved this rare product you couldn't get anywhere but select stores he always had written down in case he needed more anywhere in the country. Shop towels, they're called, and they're literally the best thing ever invented. Sucks I have to drive like 5 hours to get more but trust me when I say they're totally worth it.

Finding them is easy if you know where to look, I'm sure you'll figure it out.

SUPER SECRET #7890:

homedepot.com/p/8-lb-All-Purpose-Wiping-Cloths-6216-BL10-05D-HDX/203735485

General purpose cloth for cleaning guns, impregnating with grease for wiping your fucking fingerprints off your blue guns after handling and you can cut these into patches in an emergency.

lowes.com/pd/ProLine-8-Pack-Cotton-Cloth/50110534

$6/ oz. is a fucking ripoff price. It won’t hurt your funs, but jfc.
Get a larger bottle of 3-in-1 or something.

If you like paying for packaging, sure.

Penetrant isn’t lube.

The red lucas gun oil was their ATF in a small bottle at rape prices, people caught on so the dyed it blue.

Get something without all the additives. Aeroshell maybe. Or one of those SA spec motor oils in the drugstore that you should NEVER replace an engine’s oil with (top off if desperate, maybe).

No x2.

Firearms have short, localized temperature excursions that are quickly absorbed by the rest of the metal. Engines will get hot and stay hot. Ever seen an exhaust manifold glow red hot under load?

Warmup was mostly because of looser tolerances. Have you noticed recommended oil viscosities for vehicles are now one per outside temperature range? Engines are designed for one oil viscosity at operating temperature, not 5W-30 to SAE 50.
And you still shouldn’t stomp on the pedal when the engine is cold. If you read the owners manual closely, it will tell you to drive gently until normal temp is reached. This is because thermal fatigue is a thing, but if the engine is going to be idling tou may as well use idle power fuel to slowly move intil warmup.

Firearms can take a wide variety of lube. Which should tell us that it isn't that critical, don’t be picky. But don’t waste $$.

Be aware that grease will collect and retain particles.
Bearing grease is fine. Also synthetics.

the most important factors in a firearm lube and preservative is that it tolerates the use you put your firearm through. So that means shelf stability when exposed to the elements and it doesn't degrade under heat.

The 4-ball wear test is COMPLETELY UNRELATED to wear in ANY firearm. It’s salesmen overruling the smart guys.
Fuck.

Teflon (PTFE) is not a liquid. It’s particles. Keep it out of your funs. And engine; the oil filter will remove the PTFE.

you could maybe do a cerakote style thing with teflon

Truth.
It’s usually higher than 90%.

Shut the fuck up, you idiot ass uncomprehending piece of shit!
Firearms will NOT affect any oil because of temperature. Got that? Want to write it down?
I realize you don’t know, but shitting on education is a nigger thing to do.

But then it would always fall out of your hands, user.

that clause mostly rules out stuff like olive oil

Don’t use cooking oil on firearms nor engines. Palm, canola, corn, olive, whatever.
What even is a canola?

canola is the namebrand for rapeseed oil that's had a really nasty tasting compound pulled out of it (I looked it up, Erucic acid)
it comes from one of the world wars, Canada just had a shitton of the stuff lying around and marketing it as a cooking oil was the most convenient thing or something
also lolrape

lube to rape and leave seed

Places in an engine get up to 1400°F