What now ?

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Set screw for serious use, but a strap-on works fine.

I read that clamp on is better if you dont have a dimpled barrel.

You really couldn't have gone and paid a gunsmith $10 to take it off for you?

Taper pin for serious use, set screw is still hobby grade.

Why didn't you just buy a new barrel -- or a new gun? Fuck, dude.

>but when you break all your punches you have to make decisions
that decision should have been to leave it for another day

>but when you break all your punches
Let me guess, they're brass punches....?

wonder if this would have worked

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Everything is smooth in the picture . Its looks worse that it actually is .

Holy fuk nigger, how did you manage that? Are those gouges out of the metal? You have visibly deformed the exterior shape of the barrel. Get a new one. You should learn your idiot lesson and move on. Next time, stop and think before you break out the power tools, and maybe your mistake won't be as expensive.

OP, There is only one direction tapered pins can be removed. Next time beat on the other side.

Set screw is garbage for serious use. The only thing holding the set screw in is a tiny bit of friction between the head of the screw and the barrel. In all forms of machines, set screws constantly come loose. You can use thread locking compound but in the case of the gas block it gets too hot for most removable compounds to be effective.

>Stupid boomer opinion
If you safety wire the screws on a clamp on style block, it isn't going anywhere. See pic.

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Should I buy a new barrel or I'm I good?

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Police armorer here.
We use loctite no. 620 on the setscrew threads. It is rated to withstand high temps. If you need to remove it can be done by dissolving with acetone, or by heating it up beyond its rated temp, which is easily and safely done by touching a soldering iron to the setscrew.

If you're that worried then cross-drill and use a roll pin like the Geissele blocks use.

>reverse image search
>Image size:
>4032 × 3024
>No other sizes of this image found.
ah shit dude

Don't go with bear shit, the one upper i got from them had two cracked screws, never got a reply, but it wasn't long after that that they were raided for illegals

I'm just gonna smooth my barrel out more and reblue and maybe some high temp paint and call it good

I got a question for ya op, after the first punch broke, why didnt it occur to you that you were trying to drive the pins the wrong fucking direction? Or did you not notice that one end of the pins was bigger than the other?

punch on small end to remove pin.
punch on big end to install pin. pretty simple.

Don't go HBAR. Get a lightweight or anything but an HBAR. You won't see any noticeable improvement from one and you aren't dumping that much ammo

Do not exceed temperature on no.620 is 230F. My point stands that the gas block gets too hot for that. I'm guessing if you actually are an armorer and you guys do it that way, it is working for you. But it's not the way I would do it.

>cross-drill and use a roll pin like the Geissele blocks use.
No. I don't want to put a hole through my barrel to use a caveman attachment method.

There is plenty of surface area for a good friction hold on a clamp style block. Safety wire has been used for over a century on critical applications that need to be removable. I get there is the 'gun' way of doing things but a lot of times that isn't the best way and another industry has solved the same problem with a much more elegant solution.

What's done is done faggot. Telling me the same shit over and over again isn't gonna change anything

It's also possible this guy has a barrel from one of the great manufacturers that uses waaay too much interference fit on the pins and puts them in with a press.

I've taken pins out, know they are directional, know how much force it takes, had stubborn ones, etc. I have a CMMG .22LR upper and I can not get the pins out. I've bent two or three steel punches trying and they don't budge. I've heard Del Ton also does this shit. It's possible this is what OP got himself into.

Looks pretty stuck in there to me

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I'm not trying to rag on you user, it was a question. I'm trying to understand your process, not insult you. If I wanted to insult you I'd have called you a boomer or someshit.

Lol. This.

>16" heavy barrel
>carbine length gas system
>1:9 twist
Nigga you need to stop what you're doing and do some research.

Was it a PSA barrel?

I had to cut mine off after taking a massive fucking hammer and tap to it with no luck, just CAREFULLY smooth down the left over jagged remains of the pins and paint it if you want.

Worked for me and hasn't blown my face off.

This. My dad bought i believe it was a colt AR and wanted to put free floated handgaurds on it. The pins were extremely difficult to remove.

The 620 has been reliable for us. When it was first shown to me I was skeptical and I was sure I'd end up having to punch a small dimple in the threads to make sure the screws didn't back out but so far we've had zero trouble. It's obvious if you try and remove a screw without soldering-ironing it first.

I do know about safety wire, I used to race motorcycles in college and there were certain parts we had to safey wire on the bikes like axle nuts, brake caliper mount bolts, oil drain plug, oil filter, and so on. If you have the clearance under the rail I suppose it works. That said, most of the clamp-on gas blocks I've seen have the heads of the screws recessed into the block making safety wiring more of a hassle but it certainly works.

Personally I consider safety wire to be an extremely inelegant solution. I find it ugly to look at, a pain to remove and re-install, and I hate the fact that it can catch/retain debris (not that that is an actual problem in this specific application, it's admittedly just an OCD thing).

I guess to each their own, I like the roll pin and you like the wire. But you'll get no disagreement from me about the wire being effective.

>one of the great manufacturers
>colt

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Im pretty sure the user who called the manufacturers great before insulting their products was only being facetious

It's a Smith and Wesson barrel. That's the plan gonna order a low profile gas block and while I wait ik gonna reblue and paint.

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you'll just ruin that one too, you fucking idiot. you'll probably cross thread it or something.

>Telling me the same shit over and over again isn't gonna change anything
yeah but you deserve to hear it for being so goddamned stupid.

you're a fuck up. a goof off. you're impulsive and impatient, and everything you lay hands on you ruin, like a child does.

I hope to god you don't try and change your own tire someday user, you'll probably fuck that up too and get someone killed.

And I feel bad when I accidentally fuck up a fastener. Haha nigga you're fucked.

>We use loctite no. 620 on the setscrew threads.
B-but Jow Forums told me that set screws are amateur hour1!!

Besides the Nick's in the barrel. Cant even tell the difference

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What is your goal again? Put a steel gas block in. And a mlok handguard?
Everythings fine. No big deal.

Basically yes

The handguards going to cover all of that up. The only issue you may have is sliding a gas block on the barrel. If so, again, no big deal, then get a clamp on gas block.
Dont buy some expensive handguard. The market is full of affordable ones.
Good luck to you

>caveman attachment method
It's one of the most secure and durable methods of attaching the gas block. This better be b8.

Dimple for your pins or better yet get a locking pin

>Nick's
phoneposter detected

How the fuck do you break a punch?
What kind of punch did you use?

I mean, not all set screws are the same. Dimpled barrel, knurled set screws, loctite 272

what method were you using that you couldn't get them out.

Cut the ends of the pin off with a dremel, mount barrel in very sturdy vise, apply penetrating oil and let sit overnight, hammer pins out.

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you don't need to locktite anything on a AR, what the hell are you doing.

You don't have to, if your gas block is pinned.

Most people put rocksett on when they install a muzzle device. Being afraid of threadlocker is a grug-tier way of thinking, just make sure what you apply can be removed without damaging anything.

vocaroo.com/i/s07ShP51x1PK

I'm mad at you OP

Jesus Christ user calm down

>user goes nuclear on op

Fuck what i missed!?

Him screaming on vocaroo

If you ended up gouging out the metal from unter the pins to remove them you fucked your barrels structural integrity, though probably not enough to actually cause any harm to you since ill wager you don't shoot much especially if this was an acceptable course of action in your mind. I'd be interested to see what kind of angle your muzzle is at after a few mag dumps...

Damn. I wanted to hear user screaming at op

Blend the gouges with wire pad on an orbital sander

I've used brass punches to drift sights on. But a gas block no way.

I seriously doubt op gouging the barrel to this extent will cause the barrel to warp.

>vocaroo.com/i/s07ShP51x1PK

>user legit pulls out gun on op to display how mad he is

Went from schizo to psycho

Can anyone post an image that can best correlate with how mad this user is right now?

doesn't play for me.

Welp now the link no longer works user...

he got shitter shattered and deleted it from vocaroo

It's not working, there must be some way to recover it.

Probably the website removed it or something

I saved it so let me upload it for you guys

>shitter shattered

Wut?

Nope just sanded the pins down into the barrel. Smooth as a baby's ass. That is the deepest scratch on the barrel. No where near as deep as the pins were sitting .

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There is tape at the bottom covering gas hole. That's why you looks weird

For those that managed to get the chance to hear it before it got removed, what did it sounded like?

Meant to say bent the punchs

I think they forgot a few words on that can

>safety wire
>on a firearm

nigger are you fucking retarded?

OP flipping shit re uploaded to youtube.

youtube.com/watch?v=TrRDqD-bpWY

user was doomsguy mad, screamed and yelled at op and shouted how op doesn't deserve to be called a faggot and insteads calls him a bitch, there is a sound of him pulling out a gun and he death threats op that if he was there he would use his 45usp german gun and kill him. Then goes off in the background screaming about dumbasses then comes back yelling at him then tells him that he changes his mind and that op doesn'tdeserve a bullet because op is a brainlet becausea bullet wont kill op because he has no brain then he shittalks about airsofts and says to at least shit up airsoft guns instead then screams "fuck you" at op.

I skimmed alot of details here

Should've just redneck low-profiled it. Take the top of the FSB off and carefully grind down the lumps left over. Lots of guys used to do that.

>pic
I have never seen anybody use the ones on the top and middle right in all my experience with lockwire.

>can't even tell the difference except where you can tell the difference

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Yep, bubba gunsmithing at it's finest.

Even in his sanded and refinished pic you can EASILY see the deformation in the barrel surface.

I am continually astounded at the ability of some people to fuck things up to a massive degree. And if that isn't bad enough, perpetuate the situation insisting "see, it's not THAT bad."

Is this a joke?

death

If it still functions and is covered by handguard, what's the problem?

You realize that when he installs a new gas block it has to go over that uneven surface he created, right? doubt he's going to get a good seal.

honestly this, my AR FSB is held on by 5 set screws and I've not had any problems yet.

I need to hear NOW