Didn't see one in the catalog. Reloading General, everyone!
Just getting into the hobby and picked up some Hodgdon Titegroup and Bl-C(2) powder yesterday to load up some .223, .308, .45, .38, and .357. Anything I need to know about these powders? All reviews I see on these two (and most any other powder, generally) is "I use nothing else!" without getting into any more detail.
As a side question, are there any powders I should avoid outright? How about "pull down" powders?
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Check out Johnny's Reloading Bench on Youtube
go get a real printed loading guide. it's like 10 bucks
Just started getting into casting, and I'm alittle taken aback by the hidden costs. I expected there to be alot of ancilliary costs (it's the same when getting in to reloading of course) but had no idea it would ultimately cost me so much. Anyone here that casts, whats the minimum amount of equipment you need for casting plinking ammo? I have a furnace, a mould I like and all that. But haven't bought anything more. I'm reloading for 45-70
Research burn rates, double and single base and the different forms of power such as extruded, ball and flake.
Seconding this information, but will be casting for .38 Special and .357
SR magnum primers for BLC-2, yes or no? i''ve heard conflicting information.
every reload Ive tried to fire has had horrible swelling and wounldnt fit in my .38 spl
>Bl-C(2)
shit get some more pop to it when its warm
id skip that and just go lg rifle. i shoot at sea level though
your dies aint set up right
Can you post pics? Could be several different things from such a vague description.
do your seating and crimping in separate steps until you get it down, its a bit of pain and takes longer, but it'll stop the bulge until you get the settings and the motion right.
>id skip that and just go lg rifle. i shoot at sea level though
well thats a bit of a problem when i'm using .223 brass with SR pockets...
>shit get some more pop to it when its warm
This is pretty much the only thing I've uncovered on this powder. Is it something I really need to be concerned with, or can I just load medium loads and not worry about it too much? I know it can affect consistency/accuracy, but I'm just interested in reloading safe ammunition now before getting into precision reloading.
shit my bad, i used it for 308 mostly but just go regular primers. rem are nice, federal are softer
just stay away from max like you're thinking and ive never had a prob. just some flatter primers on a hot ass day when i left that shit on the bench
Then I'll probably just use up my stock of Bl-C(2) that I go and, seeing how things pan out, I may switch over to IMR 4895. Got a lot of surplus guns that seem to like that powder, according to what I've read.
>IMR 4895
its a good one. im partial to win748 because it meters a little better through a powder throw
your dies aint set up right
this
Anyone worried about reloading components drying up due to panic buying?
For single stage reloaders or really just anyone who individually measures their charges, whats the fastest you load your 9mm to? Not for bulk but boutique +p+.
Im doing ~1120 fps with a 5" on 147gr using accurate 7 without pressure signs other than a little bit extra extractor claw marking but Im afraid to shoot thrm through a factory glock 19
Are these hot target loads or defensive ammo?
I don't bother reloading 9mm. not worth my time
hunting/culling and because I can mostly maybe defensive toward animal at some point.
Yes. About to buy another lot of powder and primers today.
Is Vihtavuori powder worth the extra price? Saw some at a local shop for the first time and thought it looked a bit Gucci.
eh, i have not done the pepsi challenge. curious to hear form those who have
My basic setup is a melting pot, moulds, 5Gal bucket and colander (for water-dropping hot bullets), powdercoat, and a thrift store toaster oven for baking on powdercoat. Having a push-through sizer can help depending on what size your bullets drop and your barrel size.
My typical process is cast, water-drop, dry, shake in powdercoat, bake (14min after turning clear at ~140° C), dump and shake in a cardboard box to separate, water-drop, dry, size. Then they get loaded.
It costs more in time than just buying plated or jacketed bullets but it allows me to make things I don't see available (like my latest 151gr 990fps 9mm hollow points and affordable 357 Sig for plinking) and I enjoy the process.
Other nice-to-haves that I'm glad I added are a PID temperature controller (from ebay) on both the melting pot and toaster oven for repeatable temperatures, nice moulds with temp probe inserts (from NOE moulds), an ebay hot plate for preheating my moulds, and a brass dryer that just speeds up the process.
I'm currently casting and loading for 357 Sig, 9mm, and 45 ACP, and this process has worked great. Now that I'm casting for all three, my mayerial cost is running me $4.88 per 50, 45 ACP is $6.85 per 50, and 357 Sig is $5.94 per 50 rounds.
There are other, better developed powders to use. I wouldn't bother going through load development with BL-C(2), accuracte loads aren't so much about the powder they're about all the other things like concentricity and finding the accuracy nodes at particular velocities. But powder choice is important for other reasons like what pressure curve you want and what bullet weight, SD and bearing surface you're using.
Try Varget . I really like the N100 series too but they may be expensive or difficult to find where you are.
Somebody more experienced then me, please tell me what the most pissin hot m2ap 308 load I can make is?
It's a 162 grain steel core round, but I cant use load data for ~165 grain lead bullets due to the steel core projectiles being larger (less dense core)
Right now I'm using 44 grains of varget powder.
It still wont penetrate iv plate no matter how hot you make it