Reloading thread

SHTF edition, post your combat loads.

Heres what I'm loading up for boogaloo. APM mk263 50 bmg, 10mm hst's, 556 trophy bonded soft points, and some regular m80 fmj real fucking nato.

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Other urls found in this thread:

gunbroker.com/item/824004436
hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol
m.youtube.com/watch?v=vAjLe9GoNMo
silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=130523
forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6521043/m/472101969/xsl/print_topic
youtu.be/LaZHeSUqQbk
noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=44_129
youtube.com/watch?v=3bSkI4C75Vs
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

>loading your own ammo for "boogaloo"

How about you post your .50 instead.

Nice try lawman.

Your missing out if the ammo in your gun isnt handload. You can match the load to your gun for perfect power and accuracy.

I reload ammo that runs 1.5 dollars a round for ~20 cents

I feed my M82A1 237 grains of H50BMG, pushing a 690 grain South African heavy ball. Sometimes I'll roll some API, but finding a place to shoot that is tough. Other than that I keep to whatever is cheap for my AR.

Bump

These can be the best threads on the board when smart people dump info.

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Very nice, where can I get 50bmg powder for a good price?

And your smart for stocking up on silvertips.

Me and my buddies first handload. A 148 grain 38 special wadcutter over 2.2 grains of trail boss.

We all gotta start somewhere :)

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It's a niche round anyway so if you check out some of the smaller reloading supply shops around, sometimes you can find the 5 pound jugs for a decent price. I've seen the WC 860 by the pound on Gunbroker before but I'm chickenshit about buying non-factory powder for a charge that big.

Why not both?

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Noob here. Think I've made noob mistake. I just ordered 2,000 rounds of 142gr .356 bullets not realizing that .356 bullets are for .38 Super. I intended on using them for 9mm or .38 Special plinking rounds, but I understand that those projectiles are normally .355 and .357 respectively. Are these bullets usable for my purposes?

Just got used RCBS 10-10 scale. Won't balance out. Followed instructions. Wat do?

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your powder cup is probably not original and too heavy

Haven't thought of that, but it sure looks a lot like other pans I've seen offered on these RCBS scales.

I know that there are little weights inside the tray. Would it be fine just to remove one or two to have it balance out?

look under the powder cup. I think it has lead shot loaded inside the holder to balance.

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I'll try messing with that. Thanks.

yes, get it close then adjust the base

gunbroker.com/item/824004436
Here they are, just fyi.

I've considered reloading some long ass 5.56 because .224 Valkerie is for gays and homos only.

Big issue with that is the longer case length of 5.56 brass. AR mags can only feed cartridges 2.27" in OAL. However, a lot of the 75gr+ projectiles that aren't SMK/TMK will greatly exceed this length when seated properly. I've heard of niggas who dremel out the front of their mags to accept projectiles up to 2.35 but the AR magwell is only 2.4" long. Does anyone here having experience loading longer than average 5.56 and feeding it successfully through an AR?

I'm aiming to do my first reloads in .38 Special also. Gonna put them through a .357 magnum so it can handle any excess pressure if I screw up.

You should be fine. In a batch of 2k projectiles there's probably more than a +/- .001" deviation in true diameter anyways

My understanding is that PMags have a bit more room in them than aluminum/steel AR mags. You may have better luck with those.

Fine for both 9mm and .38? any potential issues with overpressure in 9mm using an oversized bullet?

Sorry, I'm just a nervous idiot about all this.

Yeah I've heard of PMAGS accepting up to 2.30" but the ones I've tried so far are all over the place. Maybe Gen3's will fare better

You'll be fine. If you think you're going to have an over pressure issue (doubtful) either load lighter or check cases after you fire them for over pressure signs (bulged/split cases, blown primers, cratered primers, etc)

I want to produce giant fireballs out of a 9mm handgun purely for the spectacle. What powder would be best to do this safely?

Shooting it through a magnum isn't going to be different if you double charge your load.

Rifle rounds are 'safer' in the sense, you cannot double charge the round. A double charge rifle round will be spilling powder out of the mouth.
Double charged pistol rounds can go unnoticed, although rare if you are careful.

Pro tip, when reloading it is often helpful to continously 'flip' the brass between each step in the reloading block.
After brass prep, start with the cases mouth up, grab one, prime, place primer up back in block, when charging grab case charge place mouth up, so you are always grabbing an upside down case to load, then when seating bullets it doesnt matter too much, but if you crimp seperate (which you should) flip them after crimping.

Trail boss

not sure if youre supposed to but Im a retard who said fuck it and regularly use .356 plated bullets in a 9mm at +p levels. dont blow yourself up or listen to retard though.

this.

My own answer to this is to move charged cartridges to a separate pallet far away immediately after pouring.

Hodgdon has load data for 9mm Luger using .356 bullets that are both cast and jacketed. You should be fine, though I'm not familiar with loading 142gr bullets. That's an odd weight.

hodgdonreloading.com/data/pistol

Lvl. 39 brass jew here, got my Lyman Cyclone, shiny brass will never be the same

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Well like you said you can always window the front of the mag, which is pretty common for a lot of long range ar calibers. This probably isn't the answer you want but there are also single feed magazine followers, so you can easily throw in bullets through the ejection port and drop the bolt.

A less gay option than 224valk is 6mmAR.
>6.5g brass
>6.5g dies (with a 6mm bushing)
>243 projectiles (heavies are cheap)
>100-110gr@2700-2850fps
>6.5g mags
>6.5g bolt
Out runs 6.5g for much cheaper since projectiles are cheaper. Out of an AR your looking at 100-110gr 6mm projectiles vs 120-130gr 6.5mm.
6.5g projectiles that can almost keep up will cost around double the 6mm price. By energy they hit about the same at the muzzle then the 6mm slowly gains ground.
Plus you can use lapua brass which lasts forever and is accurate, but expensive.
6.8 and 224 valk = big gay.

So summary 6mmAR is flatter than 224valk, 6.8spc, and 6.5g and hits harder, easier on barrels (than 224), and cheaper.
But it's a wildcat, so you have to 'make' your own dies, and can't buy any in store.

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Did my first reload in a mandatory reloader course in Germany, we loaded .38 too.

So every guy in the room has to load 2 cartridges start to finish and when we shot them the next day, one fuckup still managed to forget the powder charge.
Owner of the revolver we used was adequatly pissed.

Currently just started, I've been only working on 9mm for now. Been having a blast cranking out 124 grain lrn, but I really want to start loading subs.

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Some asshole at my range is shooting berdan primed 9mm.
Damn.

Buy a Lee digital scale for less than $20

I'm gonna load some 300WM w/168grn SMKs for my rem700 22" barrel what powder/charge should I use?

Part of the reason I'm doing this specifically with 5.56 is so that I can use both my handloads and very cheap, very abundant BS 55gr ammunition. Wildcats are kinda out of the question but I appreciate it m8.

>168gr smk
why oldworld loads? Get a sierra loading book or image search 168gr smk load data on google and someome probably posted a picture of the page.

55gr bs? not familiar

Well I'd say go windowed, 10rd mags
I did look into this before though and I found mags that allowed super long COAL. If you look around you might be able to find DPMS VLD magazine or LRP magazine. You might need a lot of luck though.

Meant bullshit, not any type of weird ammunition.
I'll check those out regardless. Thanks friendo

>I did look into this before though and I found mags that allowed super long COAL. If you look around you might be able to find DPMS VLD magazine or LRP magazine. You might need a lot of luck though
An old LR shooters trick is to use a longer action and a mag w/a partial mag block/ramp so you can seat your booletts as long as you like. You see alot of LR shooters using a 30-06 action but shooting 308W

Right but he's trying to stay in the AR15 platform, for parts and components.

I actually have a long action 7wsm I load long as fuck.

>tfw when your 300wm are so long they dont even fit a long action 3.680" magwell
muh BC

I single feed

loading 338 lapua currently

But those are garbage.

>says the guy with a broken beam scale

>A mass quantity of primers loose in a container can detonate with the power of the total explosive quantity of the individual primers. If an initiating force ignites just one primer, the explosive energy can create a "mass detonation" of all the primers.

Safety tip from Hodgdon. Anyone heard of this happening to anybody?

I know someone who primed on a progressive press and didn't understand what crimped primer pockets were. He had a primer pop once and it didn't set off the other ones in the hopper, just sent them flying all over his workshop.

You're probably fine

Long shot maybe

bump

240s?
What are you driving them at?

.224 Valkyrie was such a great example of sheep falling for simple marketing. I hope everybody learned their lesson from that piece of shit.

Has anyone ever messed with any of the subsonic 50 cal rounds?

The 510 wsm round sounds pretty fucking awesome.
Uses a common & cheap! brass component, vs 338 lapua brass.
Would fit in a normal size press unlike 50bmg, can drive the 600-800gr projectiles at 1500fps.
It's the subsonic performance that interests me.
A 750gr amax@1000fps loses

I'm so tired of all these gimmicky rounds limited by the AR frame. .25-45 Sharps, 224 valkyrie, 6.8 spc, 22 nosler....I chased this bullshit until realizing that going up to the AR10 level 6mm family gave me everything with pretty much no drawbacks

>but muh shared lower

If you're using the same lower for a fighting rifle as you are for a precision rifle you fucked up

Imagine how puckered you're asshole would be hearing a loud POP when you're flying on a progressive.

At some point the giant .6" bore of a .50 cal can and the sound of that much powder is going to give seriously diminishing returns in terms of sound reduction.

That said those ballistics sound pretty fucking insane and a 950gr pill would be fun just because it's so absurd.. I wonder about recoil, though. Even with a brake in the can and sub 1000 fps that big fucker must beat you up.

Your not exactly wrong. I didn't want to go up to 6mm creedmoor as it wasn't a production caliber yet when I was making mine. 243win barrels are almost exclusively for slow(er) twist rates and not super common on the ar10 platform.
So you get common parts without having to worry about dpms vs ar10, dpms gen1 vs gen 2, it's got fairly common brass, easy to make, dont have to worry about bullet seating depth as much as mag length is fine for the caliber, and partially because I just wanted to.

If I could do it all over again I'd give a better look at 6mm creed.

I can't recommended it enough. I'm the guy from the previous thread with the squirrel gore pics who was making 4000 fps 6mm loads.

It's a fantastic round.

Posting from the armor thread. What do you guys think?

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I've heard the suppression is pretty good, but a brake with do literally nothing for the caliber. Only thing a brake or can will do is add weight.
m.youtube.com/watch?v=vAjLe9GoNMo
Claimed to be around a unsuppressed subsonic 22lr, with a much deeper sound.
>975gr
I'd only get 7 projectiles per pound of lead. It's right around 2 1/4oz.

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I can't imagine polymer sabots being reliable in a hot gun but who knows.

Not really sure I see the practical benefits of trading the ability to shred unarmored body parts for the ability to pierce a small plate covering the vitals. Especially in a gun where follow up shots are so readily available. But maybe you're planning on fighting Iron Man or some future Universal Soldier type with power armor. Or Boston Dynamics robots maybe.

.356 is plated, you're fine

ignore all the other fags and use blue dot. It'll still cycle

>but a brake with do literally nothing for the caliber. Only thing a brake or can will do is add weight.

Well you might need to add weight. Rough calculations show a 975gr projectile going 1000 fps through a 10lb rifle gives between 36-45 ft lbs of recoil energy depending on powder charge.

Considering a lightweight 300 win mag is somewhere around 28 ft lbs that is a shitload of recoil.

This excited me in all sorts of ways. How do I get in on this?

Looking to get into reloading as i picked up a 7.7 jap rifle. What is a cheap effective setup? I won't be doing high volume

That's pretty stout. The fact that it's so low pressure is what means it wont be able to use a brake effectively.
The rifle will probably start at 8lbs, +2lbs for glass, +1 for bipod, +2-3 for can.
The 8lbs for the rifle might be a little high, because from what I've read, everything past about 12" is working against you, I was reading from
silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=130523
He was losing 200fps because of his 20" barrel.

I'll have to double check but 99% sure for dies you use a regular wsm die and literally just seat the 50cal projectile. To make the brass you just cut at the should of the case and I think there's technically no trimming. I'll have to double check who has reamers.
But pretty much the wsm uses the same bolt face as any normal magnum caliber, so get a magnum rifle remove barrel, have someone ream to your specs, throw it in the action, ????, load up some of the projectiles and start lobbing 2oz+ projectiles. You can even load it super if you wanted. You will need a 50cal seater die.
This is why I'm super interested I already load for a wsm, I got a good bit of brass too. It'd be literally having someone ream a barrel, buy a use deer killer 9001+, throw in the barrel, and live the dream.

forums.accuratereloading.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/6521043/m/472101969/xsl/print_topic
Original read that got me thinking.

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>tfw no frens to load with

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take pics, start new thread, start loading, drink beer, post pics

>you're now loading with frens

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Currently, 225 eldm. H1000. I have a chrono but I honestly cant remember the average velocity now. Somewhere in the mid to low 2700s fps and I was satisfied with my node. Someday Ill get home and be able to tell you.

6mm grendel is nearly perfect. If Stoner had given an extra .100" to the magwell imagine the potential

It really is 100gr at 2700fps could have been the perfect intermediate loading

Your basic Lee single stage press will do the trick. It has pretty much everything you’d need.

If you are really lucky you could find a 7.7 jap lee loader classic.

If you are ever going to load more than 7.7 jap it's worth getting a basic press.

Basic press
Dies
Chamfer tool
Brass polish or steel wool
Frankford arsenal hand primer
Scale
???????
Calipers/ruler
Case lube/sizing wax (sizing wax is the correct answer)
Pretty much it for a basic bitch setup.

What to add to make it a complete setup
Definitely calipers
Brass tumbler
Primer pocket brush
Powder dropper
If you'll ever load 9mm, 5.56, 308, or similar military calibers, primer pocket swager
Case trimmer
Reloading block(s)
I'm probably missing something

.357 Sig, 122gr cast HP, clear powdercoated and moving at 1350fps. Loaded with 12.5gr of AA#9 so it slings a grapefruit-sized fireball downrange.

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How do you guys remove crimps on .223 brass? I usually use my frankford case prep center and use my chamfer to remove it by taking off a little from the tip of the primer pocket

Use ammoseek for components, then before buying go to gunbroker and look around. I've managed to pick up some cheap brass before.

Trimming is big gay
Dillon 600 swager with rubber band mod a best

youtu.be/LaZHeSUqQbk
Stated rubber band mod

Beside its big brother, a 220gr cast/clear powdercoated HP moving at 980fps.

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...and its quiet little brother, a 151gr cast/clear powdercoated HP moving at 990fps over 4.5gr of AA#5.

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I've heard of molds up to 1100 grains

Thanks fren, I'll have to do that when I get into loading .45 Colt

Any idea on who makes them? I saw something for a 1025 mold, dont remember manufacturer.
The 975 is made by cast bullet engineering.
Part of me thinks that 975 might be best, because you get almost exactly 7 rounds with a little extra.

Different user here but NOE makes one at 867 grains:
noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.php?cPath=44_129

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Holy shit that's like a perfect 8, calculated 7.9908 projectiles/pound, not sure if that was intentional but that's awesome.

Become a nazi and you'll make lots of gun friends

This post was very wholesome and made my day

My reloaded buddy is an old boomer I used to work for who is about as Jow Forums as they come. It's great to have reloading buddies!

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.356 is fine for 9mm. Not sure how well the weight works though, I havent gone over 124 grains so yours might be a bit slower.

Disregard my retardation/dyslexia
I read it at 876gr

Why not use factory hollow points, and 3-5mm wide, 10-20mm long tungsten rods? What if you drill a long deep hole for the rod?

Any suggestions for a casting and reloading setup where space is a major concern? Being able to be packed on a motorcycle where most available space is already being occupied by other gear is the use case.

>Being able to be packed on a motorcycle where most available space is already being occupied by other gear is the use case.
My suggestion would be to purchase ammo instead

>just piss away money when you can load it yourself for significantly cheaper and be less dependent on others
No. Besides that, the problem of melting the lead for casting is already solved with the gasoline stove I'm already carrying and a small pot.

Have fun carrying cast iron pot, mold, press, powder, primers, brass lmao

M2 AP loaded in 300winmag and 10mm lehigh extreme penetrators.

youtube.com/watch?v=3bSkI4C75Vs

I'm pretty sure API has more penetration and destruction than mk263, unless I'm mistaken?