Budget NFA

Are there any Full giggle weapons I could purchase that aren't prohibitively expensive, assuming I purchase it legally? Or DD's/Launchers for that matter. I've always wanted to get an AT gun and put it in my backyard, but a machinegun emplacement at the top of my stairs would be enough to satisfy my autism.

Attached: MG-42-Machine-Gun.jpg (720x480, 15K)

Other urls found in this thread:

luth-ar.com/product/fire-control-group-m16/
youtube.com/watch?v=FuZmAtrRsN0
youtube.com/watch?v=evFLbKtD7UU
phase5wsi.com/extended-bolt-release-v3-ebrv3.html
scribd.com/document/350689045/The-Anarchists-Guide-To-M-16-Conversion
thehomegunsmith.com/pdf/fast_bunny.pdf
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

Two options big guy.
Legal?
Cheapest one would probably be a Uzi. Last I checked, it’s 5 grand plus a $200 cuck stamp.
Or, just fucken build your favorite parts kit, and spend the thousands of dollars you saved on ammo

Transferable Uzi is closer to 12-13k.
Cheapest is Mac 10, can get them for 6-7k if you shop around. It's probably worth spending a bit more and getting an m11/9 for 7-8k since it has better aftermarket support and a ton of cool uppers available.

MACs, Reisings, and a few other "meh" giggle guns start at about 5-6k.

>Uzi
Yeah, those are more like in the $12,000-$16,000 range for a legit UZI.
I'm guessing you're a nogunz and meant a MAC-11, MAC-10, or Cobray/SWD M-11/9.
But those still are now in the $7000+ range.

>Mac 10
That’s it, not Uzi. Tbh op, it’s not really worth dealing with legal bullshit for a machine gun. Get a binary trigger, or like I said. Build it, and don’t tell anybody

>compliance
lmao fag

>Build it, and don't tell anybody
Less building involving and more bending

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AT gun would likely be cheaper than a machine gun if it's new

I saw a chauchat for like 2,000 online once

What about if I dont give a shit about unconstitutional laws? Just drop a cost hanger in the AR? Or is there a better option?

In addendum, burn into your minds that guns are at their very basic, machines. Like a car, once you understand it thoroughly, you will know how to get the results you desire. STUDY

Can someone explain this to me like I'm retarded?

That guy in AKG was talking about AK full auto kits, which are an entirely different thing. There are dozens of websites that will sell you select-fire M16 parts kits. DPMS makes and sells the cheapest ones.

Attached: freedomkit.jpg (640x1007, 83K)

>Or is there a better option?

Edible PLA swift link. Glowniggers roll up pop it out the gun and in your mouth.

pipe in pic related, long enough to press against buffer tube and able to also touch against the hammer. it shoots itself when you release the magazine catch due to tension, which is why they mention using the BAD lever as a stand in trigger. this method completely BTFO of any internals with the lower as they are ignored in this process

Attached: image.jpg (4032x3024, 1.43M)

And what're the odds I get a knock on my door if I buy one? Is it really all kosher as long as I dont slap it onto a reciever?

Not the lever they advertised, but a much sturdier and solid piece as opposed to a little screw holding plastic onto the standard bolt release is the Phase 5 brand

*keep in mind, you would do well to find a properly weighted rod since you’ll want it to play ping pong with the buffer tube instead of being too heavy and stopping it or too light and having a fail to fire and losing momentum

>Is it really all kosher as long as I dont slap it onto a reciever?
nope, look up constructive intent

So buying one is a bad idea? I guess what I should be asking is, what'll happen to me if I buy the kit you just posted? I'm not looking to get v& for a just in case situation.

Jow Forums can get on their knees, blocking mother fuckers.

Kiss my ass, jack asses.

That said the MG 42 was the belted machine gun that all others envied.

Otherwise fuck you Jow Forums basement dwelling moderating POS ers.

shit, not touching the hammer, i meant the firing pin.

Constructive intent isn't a thing in regards to ANY firearms laws you fucking troglodyte. Show me one mention of it in any of the miles of US code concerning gun laws. I swear to god idiot fudds like you hold gun rights back more than the grabbers.

Mill out your AR and buy a parts kit. They’re not regulated. All you need is a drill, router, and xy vise

Do you think it falls under constructive intent to also own a 10” ar upper and having another AR? It’s as simple as an upper swap, but does it count? No, it doesnt. intend to constructively kill yourself

...

US law isnt necessarily about codes it's also about case law that judges decide, so that is where the concept of constructive intent derives. Its bullshit, but you should know that.

You can have a legal M203 for around $1600 after stamp

>constructive intent
So owning a mill and a block of aluminum could be considered constructive intent?
Owning the parts or ingredients to make something illegal is legal, as the parts or ingredients are legal themselves. Once you combine them, they become illegal. Doesn’t mean the feds won’t flag you for buying those items but you’re well within the law.
Seriously if constructive intent was a thing they could arrest people for buying fuel and household chemicals.

youtube.com/watch?v=FuZmAtrRsN0

HOLY SHIT EVERY FUCKING AR IS A GODAMN m231

moms gonna freak

Attached: b7d.jpg (727x727, 46K)

A drop-in auto sear is fairly easy to make.

If I bought a stripped lower and an upper, could I just drill a third whole and assemble the lower the same way I'd do it with any other lower kit, like a PSA, or are there more steps involved?

>Seriously if constructive intent was a thing they could arrest people for buying fuel and household chemicals.
>implying they dont

>And what're the odds I get a knock on my door if I buy one?

No one is going to come to your door. inb4 huurrr durr nice try ATF faggy dog meme.

> Is it really all kosher as long as I dont slap it onto a receiver?

Yes, drilling the hole for the sear pin is where you will run into trouble. Most people that get hit with charges for this shit do something stupid like making machine guns and selling them. Use some common sense if you do decide to break the law.

It's only really worth wasting a receive if you have immediate access to a decent amount of private land. Even then, most of the hypothetical fun should be had with a 22lr conversion kit and suppressor to be safe.

Also, remember not to do any of this.

You are exactly right, be honorable with this knowledge. automatic weaponry is literally only a small rod away from each AR.

Why is pp hard?

because you finally see the truth that has always been right in front of us all. all of this time, money, and discussion has been wasted resources when you can go to home depot and buy an appropriately sized steel rod for

Holy fucking shit, I just understood how it works. Jesus fuck.

i still dont understand… why is a pipe involved?

What would the cyclic rate be ?
Wouldn't it beat its self up and otherwise be prone to malfuntions ?

Attached: 1056 - pSwzjT2.jpg (295x418, 66K)

If you do it right and don’t add a fuckload of surplus rod to stick out of your bolt, you should have an open bolt m16. if you added lots of extra steel, then you would start messing with the ROF. As to beating itself up, assuming it’s all mil spec? mil spec is designed for automatic fire so it’ll be fine

The buffer presses against the pipe and the pipe presses against the firing pin keeping it pressed forward the whole time while firing. Think of it like how an open bolt smg fires

You know your bolt carrier? crack open your AR, rack it back, see how it’s hollow and you can see straight to the back of the firing pin? you put a solid steel rod inside the bolt carrier, one long enough to be pressed upon by the buffer tube and with a point to touch the firing pin. Now imagine shutting the AR with that new piece inside, use the bolt catch and lock it open. Now when you release it the buffer tube will automatically cause the steel rod to strike the firing pin, which would fire a loaded round. This will automatically cause the gun to eject and rechamber another round. repeat until mag is empty.

You’d have to screw your stock on around the rod wouldnt you?

See at 3:30 and more specifically 3:55.
user misspoke and actually means a solid steel rod, not a pipe. It fits inside the bolt carrier, between the buffer and the firing pin. When the bolt slams closed, the force of the buffer against this rod pushes on the firing pin, firing the gun. Your gun is now open bolt and fully automatic.

How does this work with an 80% lower with no space for a trigger? Scroll to 4:15 in the video. Notice how Ian hits the magazine release, dropping the bolt forward onto the trigger sear. If he were to pull the trigger, the bolt would be released and slam forward, firing the gun. If the trigger was already held down (or the sear didn't exist), then just hitting the mag release would fire the gun, which leads into our next point.

We are using a BAD lever, which lets you manipulate the mag release with your trigger finger (you can already see where this is going). Pull the BAD lever down to fire, push up to stop firing. See youtube.com/watch?v=evFLbKtD7UU at 2:15 for an example.

Naturally you'd probably want a rubberband or spring or something on the lever to keep it in the held position all the time to stop the gun from firing when you're not pressing the lever.

addendum: instead of 3:55 just skip to 8:25 for an explanation of the steel rod. Didn't watch the entire video.

So, manipulating the BAD lever gives me full auto, but if pull the trigger its still semi? Or is it also full auto? I thinking this is making sense now.

There is no trigger. user describes building on an 80% lower, which has no cutouts for a trigger group at all. The BAD lever *is* the trigger and the gun is FA only.

without the BAD lever, you are left with simply a bolt release. when it IS released, the gun fires Full Auto. the lever is just to give you more grip on the bolt release to use it in PLACE of a normal trigger. Think like this: you arent using the lever to shoot it, you are using the BAD lever to STOP it

I see! So no need to mill. How durable are these levers? What're the odds one gets jammed or broken when Firing? Are they easy to switch off, or am I going to have to mag dump everytime?

So, in theory, I could just start churning out full autos without even an FFL transfer on the lower, let alone a tax stamp. That's alot of responsibility you've just handed to me.

Mmmmm, carbon

you have the ability to drive a car through a parade, but do you? You can churn out FA’s with 80%’s that arent even milled. you just need the full upper and buffer tube assembly.

use this
phase5wsi.com/extended-bolt-release-v3-ebrv3.html
and if you just have a 30 rd mag then it’ll take some getting used to before youre able to ‘manage’ an open bolt m16 with the lever. so mag dumps in the beginning

Pretty sure you can just tie a very stiff rubber band between the side of the lever and the bottom of the trigger guard to constantly pull it up, stopping the firing.

Wait, I'm a dumbass, that goes the wrong way. Between the end of the lever and maybe the top rail would pull it up.

that’s if you want to rely on a rubber band, although there are some sturdy ones i personally wouldnt want to rely on any just lying around the house. Im sure strong ones dont cost much at all though

it confused me at first too but you were right before if you want to loop it down under and back up to the lever, it’s just that you would have to reverse your trigger instincts with “push” instead of “pull”

Is there a specific length needed for this minecraft rod or does it just bounce back and forth?

Agreed, gonna need the length of this rod for my Minecraft SMP server

There is one extra step. You have to make a part of the inside of the lower wider to accept the sear. They purposely narrow AR15 lowers to make this harder but all you need is an xy vise to make small increments on your drill so you can slowly chip away at that part
scribd.com/document/350689045/The-Anarchists-Guide-To-M-16-Conversion

Semi Auto MG3 parts kit for 500 bucks, get someone to build it for you for probably 1500-2000, and put a gatcrank on it

Aren't there other full autos with a somewhat similar price range? Last I checked a year ago, original Colt M16a1's were selling close to $15-$16 thousand.

Reising SMG's and Mini-14's can still be found for about $8k and $15k respectively. Destructive devices are considerably cheaper, M203 launchers for around $1500, mortars of various makes and models for $4k-$6k. It's hard to find even smoke or flare rounds for them though, mostly it's dummy trainers and the occasional training round that loads a 12 gauge blank. I think there could be a pretty good niche market for someone to build a pyrotechnic mortar and 40mm round that fell under the 4 oz. or whatever payload limit for a DD stamp.

Reising, Sten/Sterlings, various Sterling based kit guns can all be had around that price range.
M1. You can find full auto ARs for ~20k, military patterns for 25k-30k generally.

Yea, though I don't see why you'd get a mini 14 for 15k when you can get an M11/9 for 7k and a lage 5.56 upper for 3k and still have all of the M11/9 uppers to play with.

There are some manufacturers that don't give a fuck and their models are pretty much drop in.

Why not just buy an m16 lower for 80 bucks from dpms?

Because prison is gay.
It sucks that the laws are what they are, but I'm not going to let a toy ruin my life, if I didn't own a transferable, I just wouldn't own any full autos.

Larping as a member of the A-Team, duh

>Naturally you'd probably want a rubberband or spring or something on the lever to keep it in the held position all the time to stop the gun from firing when you're not pressing the lever.

Attached: 1545245435593.png (1606x708, 278K)

Attached: Open-Bolt PFW (Pipe Fitting Weapon).png (778x393, 60K)

The most common way to make an AR full auto is a lightning link (or any other DIAS system). They usually cost about $6000 and come with the usual tax stamp and registration etc. and I’m pretty sure they only work with an SP1 bolt carrier group but I could be wrong

But it would be shame if you were to make your own out of $20 worth of 1/16 and 1/32 inch steel:

thehomegunsmith.com/pdf/fast_bunny.pdf

>They usually cost about $6000
Um, when did you last check prices, 15 years ago?
Good luck finding one for less than 15k today.

Seems like it would be worth it to drill a hole and put a spring in there if you were planning to use it for anything more than turning money into noise.

that would require a modicum of know how, a rubber band is just so much more in tune with the average Jow Forums user who will ooh and ahh at this but never try

Fair enough, although I don't think a drill press and a couple of different strength springs is a bad addition to this concept for those more serious about trying it. Technically, you could build the thing without pinging anyone's radar and as, long as you weren't caught test firing it, once disassembled it's not a firearm, let alone a machine gun.

Why is simple possession of M16 parts not illegal? Why are these available for purchase all over the internet?

The fascinating thing (to me) is taking a pile of completely uncontrolled parts, assembling them without modification, and having a machinegun.

From a practical perspective -- sure, a coil spring in a hole makes more sense than rubber band. But from a practical perspective, you're also better off either using a regular swift link, or if doing the open-bolt thing, making your own open-bolt sear and conventionally-placed trigger.

Drill a spring pocket in an 80% receiver where it serves no purpose other than to make it full auto, and I'm pretty sure it legally becomes a machinegun at that moment, even if you never assemble it and test-fire.

“The usual five thousand plus one pays for such things.”

OP is looking for that one secret full auto gun you can get for three hundo. You know, that one that all of us who are In The Know know about and can get with the secret handshake at any FFL dealer. Obviously, OP is not a member of the club.

>where it serves no purpose
How many John Laws are going to look at a small hole in an 80% receiver and immediately intuit that it's there for nefarious purposes?

I do agree with you about the uncontrolled parts and limited modification being the neatest part of this project though.

Expect to spend at least 10k for anything that's not an Uzi

Lmao dude I just googled lighting link price and that’s what showed up

So this is similar to a firing pin channel full of cosmoline with a BAD lever as a brake. Correct?

It's creating an open-bolt AR15 with a BAD lever as a trigger. If you drill another hole below the bolt catch, and put the plunger and spring in there, so that the bolt catch is always activated, then you would use the BAD lever to release the bolt catch and deive your modified BCG forward. When the bolt locks into place the firing pin will automatically drive forward, fire the round and start the cycle over. Releasing the BAD lever would be equivalent to releasing the trigger.

There is no safety, there is only full auto fire.

I want to become an SOT and make this

At 300 dollars an hour, you'd be better off buying the gun than paying a lawyer for a single working week, even if he could get you off.

If you can weld, complete parts kits imported with cut receivers are cheap. Especially slavshit. Drop in an a trigger group and you're golden. They are however fully automatic and thus illegal unless you modify them for semi auto and dispose of the means to make it full auto. I'm sure you'll do that.

Uzis are 13kish, don't talk about things you have no experience in.

Just buy a regular lower parts kit two you retards. Obviously dont go to a public range and start mag dumping with your bootleg m16. Keep it in your closet for when you need it.