/rlg/

Reloading general.

Why does this keep happening? This is the second time a pilot has come in being way too big. This .30-30 brass is already sized and even flared. This pilot is a .30 caliber pilot. Why is there no other information about this issue online?

Attached: 20190810_145239.jpg (2560x1536, 939K)

Other urls found in this thread:

americanreloading.com/en/40-caliber-10mm-400-401/189-40-180gr-hst-500ct.html?search_query=Hst&results=3
youtu.be/UeEl9wZyabc
gunbroker.com/item/825363270
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

you're buying a .308 diameter pilot when your case mouth is .307 or less so it actually holds on to a .308 diameter bullet

just chuck it in a drill and sandpaper it until it fits

Just loaded up 100 10mm HST's

Attached: Snapchat-1279775147.jpg (720x1396, 169K)

if I wanted to remove pull my fresh fmj rounds and put in hollow points what's the bare minimum equipment i'd need?

Bullet puller and hand press

where you buy from

meant

Why won't these deprime? Between these, sealed .308s and .303 and some boomer's brass 7.62x39, I've broken 4 decapping pins.

Attached: 20190810_232709.jpg (4032x2268, 2.14M)

I want to get into custom bullet swaging, but the start up cost is prohibitively expensive. What are the alternatives other than soft cast lead bullets?

Other than checking to make sure your brass isnt Berdan primed, your depriming pins might not be aligned when they are installed. even a thou off and they will catch on the case web.

I only want to share that Information with people who I know will be on my side during RAHOWA, sorry to be a faggot user

Millitary primers are crimped in

I finally got my shitty lee loadmaster to work nicely with the shitty lee bullet feeder last night. Loaded a quick 150 rounds of 9mm with just a few bullet spilling from the feed arm. Today I decided to clean and lube my RCBS hand primer since it was sticking. I did load like 10k primers without any cleaning. I'm probably going to go sort brass for an hour before I go to sleep so I can prep some cases tomorrow.

Same user here.

americanreloading.com/en/40-caliber-10mm-400-401/189-40-180gr-hst-500ct.html?search_query=Hst&results=3

Have this source, they are almost as cheap as where I'm getting them from.

For those that want try out reloading without having to invest in a press, Lee makes this little kit that works well enough for you to get your feet wet. Mind you they only work for bolt rifles.

Attached: Lee Classic Loader.jpg (700x700, 75K)

You have sometimes different hole diameters. 1.6 and 2mm iirc

Would their 9mm work with an autoloader?

Probably some combo of that. Depriming Lake City brass is notoriously a pain in the ass because of the crimping done to secure the primers to the cup.

Not reliably.
It will work for bolt action, leverghats and single shot break action.

I used this for 357 years ago. It's such a pain in the dick. Like 10 minutes per bullet

>>Millitary primers are crimped
Yes, but that's not what user's pic shows. When the primer is crimped you can see the crimp around the primer, and that's not visible in this pic. Also, military ammo usually has lacquer to seal the primer--we also don't see any of that in OP's pic.

Some of user's other brass might have that issue, but the one shown in does not.

For that one it's either berdan primed, or the flash hole is smaller than user's decapping pin. user can easily figure out which by looking down into the empty case with a flashlight.

You just need practice and to get into a rhythm. I sometimes use it for my 30-30 just for the nostalgia feels.
There’s this old fag on YouTube slamming out rounds in like 30 seconds
youtu.be/UeEl9wZyabc

Honestly I just got a Lyman turret and I don't really want to go back

Swaging is only economical if you are making very high volumes.

Hardcast lead with powder coating

Nothing wrong with that at all
Is is an All American 8 by chance?
I’ve been eyeing those....

You were correct about Berdan primed there. Any advice for decapping these? They seem 10x tougher than the red sealed ones.

Attached: 20190811_102944.jpg (4032x2268, 2.13M)

That is military brass. See that bluish color around the primer? That's lacquer sealant. It basically glues the primer in place. It is also crimped. You can see the 3 individual crimp points: one at 11 'oclock, another at 4, and the last one at 7 o'clock.

Personally I don't bother reloading those. They're a pain to deprime, and then when you're done you still have to ream out or swage the primer pocket so you can fit a new primer in them.

That guy is Richard Lee himself, if he couldn't pound out a round with his own invention faster than anyone else I'd be surprised.

These threads are always more active when we discuss how to do illegal shit

Are there any games with reloading (other than new vegas)?

There’s a reloading bench in The Evil Within 2

>

But is it usable?

That (You) belongs to me partner

Attached: 1487027146083.jpg (588x583, 52K)

Pleb! Not decapping with a punch. Get a piece of 2x4 drill a hole for the case head, drill a hole for the primers to fall out.

Use the pins for the sizing ball only. If its Berdan primed use the water method or throw it out.

that is how I started 35 years ago

Baump

Possible reasons for hangfires?
Using Win 760 with Magnum CCI large rifle, I thought switching to magnum would fix it but no luck. Firing pin depth is sweet

maybe you have something block the flash hole like lube or tumble media.

I've been using ultrasanic to clean the brass, it's usually nearly spotless. I might try and get a brush or something to make sure though.

I've never had a trimmer which didn't piss me off except the Wilson I use now.

Hey guys, welder here, off topic post but some of you guys seem handy, any idea on how one would sharpen a tungsten carbide rod?

Attached: 63316424.jpg (640x560, 113K)

I just mounted my press onto my bench prepping for my first reloads last night and I've already had my first dream:
>At range with my CC gun.
>I know some of my first 9mm reloads are in it.
>Pull trigger
>A tiny wisp of smoke comes out the barrel, nothing else.
>Somehow decide to pull the trigger again and the same thing happens

I know folks have dreams on pulling their CC, but not reloading.

>doesn’t know how to sharpen tig tungstens
You are not a welder

Maybe he's new.

What is your case fill?
I think I recall something about hang fires with some powders with a low case fill.
Maybe try a slower powder with more volume?

New loader here again. I mentioned in a previous general that I had impulsively purchased 2,000 142gr .356 bullets. Link to what I got: gunbroker.com/item/825363270

It seems that they're safe to reload in 9mm Luger, but I can't find any load data for 142gr bullets. New Hornady and Lee books had nothing and I can't find anything online. Anyone know what I should do?

Not him, and never welded with anything but stick, but don't you literally just use a bench grinder to resharpen the rod?

This, plus a seating die. Hopefully they arent crimped or you'll have a bad time trying to seat them.

Use a punch, if its really cheap brass the flash hole can be out of alignment and break your punch/pin.

>but don't you literally just use a bench grinder to resharpen the rod?
A bench grinder with a special grinding wheel; generally called a "green wheel" in welder/machinist jargon. Tungsten will fuck up a normal grinding wheel because it's too hard. It requires a silicon carbide wheel (aka "green wheel")

>New Hornady and Lee books had nothing and I can't find anything online. Anyone know what I should do?
Use a load specified for a slightly heavier bullet.

what I do in similar situations
>look at 147gr data
>look at 124gr data to see whats shared
>do some mental math of where you should start between one of the shared powders
>choose some of the faster powders burning powders out of the recommended list for the 147
>start at a light charge
>make sure your COAL is safe
Note: this is potentially dangerous and my legal disclaimer is you should not do this and instead call the company and ask

I was considering using the 147gr load listed as it had the lowest powder charge of the weights around 142gr. I'll start with that and see what needs adjusting.

Does the fact that these are .356 FMJs alter how I should use data meant for .355 bullets?

Basically yes
As said, you just grind them. Another reason for the special, dedicated wheel is contamination. Don’t use that wheel for anything else.

Assuming you're a newb and and want cheap hollow points, know this is a bad idea because hollow points and round nose often use different powder weights.
If you're not a newb, proceed.

I would slug your barrel and make sure they aren’t too tight.
You may need to size them down, but probably not.

147 is close enough to 142. Use that, perhaps reduce the charge slightly and work your way up.

Should I load 10 or so with a reduced load, then load 10 more using the 147 data and see if those function?

Sorry, just really new to this.

If your load data is for 147 and you are using 142's then I'd just use that same load. Load 10 or 20 just to double-check that they work before loading up a big batch.

you'd want to reduce the load if you were starting from a load for a lighter bullet. (for example, if you had 125 grain data and you wanted to load for 142 you'd want to start low)
But in this case 142 and 147 are very similar, and the error is in the "safe" direction anyway since you're loading a lighter bullet than the data calls for.

Thanks a lot for the input. I'll have to share my results once I give them a try. I messaged the vendor too on what load data he used as apparently he tested these bullets in 9mm, .38 Special, and .357 Magnum.

Why aren't you saving time by resizing and decapping at the same time, friend?

I'm not that user, but I decap separately because it saves wear and tear on the FL size tool.

I have a separate press on my loading bench with a dedicated decapping die on it. It's much more robust than the decapping pin on a FL size die.
For .50 BMG I use a center punch mounted in a machinist's arbor press.

just make sure you dont squib. Check for pressure signs and move up in charge

For .38/.357 I'm going to use them in my Dan Wesson. Removable barrel on that thing makes squibs quick to check and clear. Obviously that doesn't do me much good if I miss the squib while shooting and put two in the barrel. Guess I should start with the 2.5" snub to be safe.

What chronographs do y'all use?

I used to use a Chrony, now switched to Labradar and I love it. No more fucking around with screens, don't have to set up anything in front of the shooting bench while at the range, etc.

Would interpolating between the two points of data be an appropriate way to estimate a powder load for an odd massed bullet?

That sounds logical to me, and I have done it before. I also run simulations in Quickload for a sanity check. (I've also used "Load from a Disk" before, but that's very old software at this point)

But 142 vs. 147 grains is so close that I don't see the need to do it in this particular case.

Im
and
Is right. They are very close and I personally would feel fine about it but do at your own risk. The chance of a squib is probably really, really low even at bottom 147gr charge but Id increase charge from there after establishing it works.

Considering these will likely be some of my first reloads, you think I should learn the basics on something else first? Got stuff for .45 and .308 I planned on tinkering with first.

I've given you the same answer three times now: 142 is close enough to 147, and it's erring on the safe side, so I wouldn't worry about it.

Understood. Please excuse my relentless faggotry.

nah, Id do it

ProChrono + Digital Link Bluetooth adapter
Kind of a legacy set-up since you can get a ProChrono Digital now with on-board Bluetooth

Anyone here have stuff from Inline Fabrication? Do they ever have sales? I like their stands, but I can get a similar one for less than half price at Harbor Freight.

Anyone here have experience with cast bullets? I've been looking for concrete info on the process I must go through to safely load and shoot these, but everyone seems to have a different idea of what is and isn't necessary. Do I need to size and lube the bullets? If I have bullets cast with a gas check cavity, will I encourage flame cutting if I don't have a gas check? Do you need a seperate die for crimping gas checks? I have the Lyman book on casting, but it doesn't say one way or the other on alot of this stuff

bumpin'

They have 10% off during some major holidays and 15% during bf. Only Simillar thing I see at harbor freight is a floor stand for bench grinder. Which is fine if you want floor standing and can anchor it down I suppose.

Assume I only use 9mm brass once after factory loading. Should I worry if theres somewhat significantly more extractor claw wear if primers are NOT flattened and cases are not warped in any way? Just noticeably more claw wear. These arent for bulk loads, just a spicey batch.