/wt/ Watch Thread, Heretical Speedy Edition

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for new people (unironically):
youtube.com/watch?v=6Td7CXwwW7w

>Thread theme:
youtube.com/watch?v=FkD4iU9nxkM

>Used watch guide:
pastebin.com/4cP1Tpri

>Strap guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/VBAu4Rwi

previous thread:

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What is the definition of a dress watch?
Can a dress watch have a complication?
Do dress watches have to be precious metals?
Is a tourbillon a complication?
What is the minimum number of complications to make a watch a grand complication?
Do you need a striking, timing, and a astrological complication to make a watch a grand complication?

All of these and more are some examples of things that have no consensus in the watch world.

First for dress watches, :^)

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To add to this user's question, is it possible that individual watch companies have their own definitions, depending on their lines, to help sell watches to their clientele? That the definition of a 'dress watch' may be different if you ask Breguet compared with asking Rolex?

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This is a dress watch.

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Rolex don't call any of their watches dress watches

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lol Fair enough. But in person. What if you walked into a Rolex Boutique (assuming you wear clothing that would indicate to the employees that you'd actually be able to afford something), and asked them, 'I'd like to buy a dress watch, please.' Would they immediately start showing you their Cellini line? Would they push you towards the Day-Date or Date-Just? Would they even show you the gold Subs or the precious metal Daytonas?

I'm curious about this...

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Surely a f91 is a dress watch too because there's no concensus.

Just picked up an SKX009J for $130

Fucking hyped for it to show up now.

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Sports, diver, ect all have results. Articles with releases and things like that. I feel that it echoes the lack of consensus on what a dress watch is.

Describe your perfect watch:
>Submariner case, hands and dial
>Amphibia movement
>Amphibia crystal
>Amphibia case back
>Seiko rubber strap

I am interested in that too. Would that be the Rolex definition they are taught or the person serving you's personal opinion?

>2018 black bay case, hands and dial
>A2824 movement
>black bay crystal
>2016 black bay case back
>black bay SS strap

is there a seiko or citizen version of this?

See

Citizen Stiletto have some close models.

Could that be because Rolex considers all of their watches to be 'dress watches'? Not in terms of hubris, but in terms of marketing? That they want to impart to the customer that Rolex is far more valuable than any other watch on the planet, and thus no matter what model it is, it will satisfy the requirements of society to call it a 'dress' watch?

Well, I have a feeling that in the store the employees have 'the company line' that they memorize and repeat whenever customers ask certain things. It would apply to dress watches like it would apply to anything else, aesthetic or technological.

Not directly related, but I remember the last time I was in the Omega store picking up the Seamaster from service, I asked the guy helping me out what the purpose of the two barrels were in some of the new models. They're doing this for longer power reserve, but he didn't explain it that way. The company line from him was, 'it's better for the watch, and it'll give you the security of knowing that it won't run down on you if you leave it over night'. You see, it's kinda true...but there are all these embedded things in there to do what political articles do with their brackets
> (and that's a good thing)

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Alternatively:
>Casio MDV106 case
>Vostok movement
>relumed with something better
It would be the perfect disposable diver

Strap like this in 19mm?

Does it exist? Or can anyone point me to a similar product that is in 19mm?

Stop me from buying a heuer Monaco calibre 11

file

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>SKX009J
>$130
from where

A 6542 GMT master in new condition
New glidelock bracelet and gmt master 2 movement

this is probly the cleanest
looking watch ever made

Jomashop. I had a huge discount code for spending $5k

>Citizen Stiletto
thats so off dude they're all black

Incidentally, in my experience the 'personal' opinion of a person serving you in a boutique is usually the company line, just adjusted for the situation. It's similar to the usual ploy of them wearing one of the products without actually owning it. They'll have a modest model on their wrist, take it off and show it to you as if it's theirs, and exclaim all the wonderful things about it, as if to say, 'it's well within reach of anyone'. It's also used psychologically to push the customer towards purchasing something slightly more expensive...after all, you're not going to go into a store and buy something that is worse than what an employee of the store is wearing, right?

I have found it extremely difficult to get truthful answers out of employees...it's usually the older ones who have been in the business a long time that I can get serious answers out of, once they realize I'm not there to listen to bullshit.

But I can't blame the employees...most of them do this as a temp job until something better comes along.

It's beautiful, no doubt, though I'm very partial to the VCs as well. I fucking love thin case watches...

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oh nvm those are dope but a bit out of my price

No. I have this exact model it's about as close as I can think of.

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>Seiko H-series anadigi case
>High-frequency crystal, HAQ analog movement
>Seiko Kinetic charge system with a microrotor
>Citizen full-face LCD
>Casio Illuminator
>Databank system with induction dock and/or BT link, allow software modification of the watch itself
>Day/date, chrono/timer, multi-alarm, world time, temperature, compass

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>a mechanical that does not require any lubrication or servicing.

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>sinn 556i
>pic related hands and markers
>orange seconds hand
>meme submarine steal
>pimped out ETA 2892
>display back
>smooth leather with bright orange stiching matching the seconds hand
>Comes with a gf

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Seiko 5!

Sistem51

Skx series

I've had my 009 for 15 years without a service and nothing has changed

I like the aesthetics of 80s casio watches but casio stopped making my favorite watch of all time, the AQ51. Any recommendations for a watch with both digital and analog display plus a light?

What is this new devilry? How is this possible? Every mechanical requires some form of lubrication....or else the gears would shear apart eventually. Are all the teeth made of rubies?

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I would think they would show you a Cellini, since that is expressly the purpose for which the line exists.

Well of course they require lubrication from the factory but the fact my skx has run -2.3s/d for 15 years tells me that the movement is fucking bulletproof and doesn't need to be regularly lubricated.

Grand Seiko SBGH267, reduced in size to 37mm, VFA movement.

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But even a vintage (i.e. 1950's) Omega will run that long without a service...that doesn't mean that it doesn't need to be lubricated or cleaned and serviced at some point.

I'm talking about a watch like Daniels dreamed about. One that doesn't need ANY lubrication. Like a quartz digital watch. Except Mechanical, with the usual escapement, gears, clutches and shit....lol

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That's what I would expect as well. I've never taken to them in terms of their aesthetic though....I really don't like them. They always seem too 'chunky', for lack of a better word. There is nothing particularly elegant about them in my eyes. That's why I said a few nights ago that I can't for the life of me understand who buys them, and why Rolex keeps that line going.

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I've been seriously considering that Hamilton lately, they look fantastic, and I'm in need of a black dial regular wear watch.

Get an intramatic

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I agree, for me the Cellini line uses a case far too similar to the oyster case to be suitable for a dress watch. It even still has the screw down crown. I can't imagine choosing one over a JLC or even a Zenith Elite.

Does anyone have recommendations on the best quality leather 2 piece strap that I could get for about $40 or less? I don't have the money to buy a $70+ strap right now.

The screw-down crown doesn't bother me in the slightest; there's nothing wrong with having a watch that is water-resistant, especially one that is expensive.

But if they could somehow engineer that to work on a thinner case...well, it would be awesome.

I don't think I'll ever get over the VCs though...I don't like their bracelets, or their chunky watches, but their thin ones really hit the mark for me.

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I think I'm going to, I only have 32-26mm vintage watches right now, but I can comfortably wear much larger. The more I look into it, the more I like it.

Check the ones in the OP

How big is your wrist? If you can save a little money and get the smaller intra matic. I have an 8 1/4" wrist so I went for the bigger variant, just under $600

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Post prototypes

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Post funny watch fails

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Here ya go.

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I was putting a watch movement back together once and parts went flying in fuxking 10 different directions when I fucked up placing one spring

Isn't a blank bezel kind of pointless?

It looks like it keeps the crystal from popping off...

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But that SARB didn’t get any serious reparation, it was just supposed to get its bracelet resized and still the watch repairer managed to fuck it up.

It’s not blank, it’s ceramic. Steinhardt just sucks at making them easy to read

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Mine are about 7.5 inches.

how am i supposed to see those markers while being 300m beneath the surface my dude

Get the smaller one, saves about $100

thoughts? its quartz but its bulova's signature high freq. movement. I think for the price its v nice.

is this watch stainless?

I don't think it'll matter because the movement will flood if it gets rained on...

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Don't Talk To Me or My Son Ever Again.

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I actually think they’re easy to read when you are physically underwater, the reason they’re hard to read is there is clear sapphire over the numbers underwater I’m sure it’s much easier to read

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>make a diver watch
>you can't use to dive
???????

if you don't look like a child you can walk into rolex boutiques looking like garbage and they'll still treat you well. doubly so if you look like a chinese tourist in crocs who wants to launder some money

(i've always been treated incredibly well in wempe/tourneau/rolex ads and i typically am wearing jeans and a t-shirt)

As an example, the Steinhart Ocean One Premium (on their website) is stated in the case details to be 'Waterproof to 30ATM', even though on the face it is printed '1000ft/300m'. I know it's a different model than user's, but the point is rather clear.

Well, that depends. If you're Chinese but you're in the right mall, of course. But if you're on the high street, that's another story. Also, it depends too on what you're wearing on your wrist, as well as what you're wearing on your feet. Those are two areas of conspicuous consumption that employees look at.

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Such a case exists just mod one.

If my business makes me as much money as I hope I'm seriously considering starting a microbrand just so I can get the exact watches I want

i walked into the 5th ave flagship wempe not too long ago wearing a shitty black hoodie covering my watch, t-shirt, raw denim and sneakers and they offered me a glass of champagne. I have never, in my life, been to a pretentious AD. They don't give a fuck what you look like, your money is just as good as anyone else's. I single out the chinese because they flock to NYC dealers and every time I step inside an AD, they are always trying on absurd PM 40k+ pieces or grand complications, so I assume the sales people are rightfully racist and will treat any chinaman who walks in with lots of respect.

Admittedly, I probably would be treated differently if I looked like a teenager. YMMV, but in my experiences I've never had anyone assume my budget unless I explicitly state it. If you walk in and say you want to see a fuck-you-money 18k sub, they're gonna get it out for you and tell you it looks good on you.

30atm and 300m and 1000ft are all roughly equal

So like AM Watches? There was some Irish retard trying to resell assembled Vostoks for hundreds of dollars on Kickstarter too.

Quite right! Please disregard all mention of the ratings. Perhaps I really SHOULD stop drinking...fucke me....

Having worked commission jobs you develop a sense of who is a yes, a maybe and a no.

You probably look like a maybe, which is always at least worth being cordial with. Often people smart enough not to buy on the spot but they do come back 5 months later and ask for the nice guy they talked to.

Thanks for the advice, I think I'll do exactly that.

I'd probably go a little higher level, like buying ETA movements for serviceability and just get some chink factory like one of the Parnis ones to do the cases. Assembly is the only part I'm concerned about, as I don't want chink quality but getting westerners to do it will drive up the cost

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Well then you'd really need to separate yourself from the dozens of other Kickstarter shitters.

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Would penisquartz be a good post vasectomy gift?

whats with this meme? never found skx's to be nice to wear but why the backlash?

>Pays to get shirts monogrammed
>Can't afford a dress watch
>Brown shoes with a black suit
What a fucking mess

Well the end goal is to make the exact watches that I want. I'd probably give a couple to some friends, and then sell whatever's left to hopefully break even. I'd try to keep the run to the smallest amount that I can build in bulk, like 1000 pieces. Unless you go down the MVMT or DW route it's pretty much impossible to make any decent money from making mechanicals

Hold up...I may be drunk but not that drunk. The suit is dark blue, and while the shoes are hideous and the socks illfitting, it could be worse.

However I don't understand why he'd advertise to the world that his watch is his 'plus-one'....Fuck me, that's horrible...

That guy needs some fucking self respect, but who's going to beat it into him?

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A reminder of what was lost.

Maybe a doublepenis is better to really rub it in.

Ironically the “no brown with black rule” is reddit superstition. It’s fine as long as there’s enough contrast.

>shifting loose chapter ring
Holy shit, mine too.

>aesthetics of a pre-war chrono
>casio quartz movement
>water resistance of a 1000m poseidon
>sapphire glass
>movement cushion
>low atmo resist
>magnet resist
>price of a thumb tack

>ywn have your wife give birth on the day of your graduation which is also your 18th birthday

how will ever be gifted a patek by my father?

Yep, just take a look at any well dressed dude. The "rules" are rarely followed

Is it your child? Why would you want a Patek when you can have a Tisell? None of the words you just said made sense of your words....

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Only rules that are followed are fit rules really. Matching shoes and belt leather as well I guess.