/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

/mkg/ - Chink Edition

>Mech enthusiast starter edition
imgur.com/a/G6rOk
>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com/8Yku80VL
>FAQs:
pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp
>Use the buyer's template
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Group Buys
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nl3D0wIqf3tU43bu0mc0LSkxeh2CxGrchr_OViEjZ4c/htmlview
massdrop.com/
>Keyboard wiki
deskthority.net/wiki/Main_Page
>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org/web/20161101152119/http://keypuller.com/)

Last thread

Attached: Gateron PBT.jpg (3264x2448, 1.19M)

Other urls found in this thread:

micronanotools.com/collections/plastic-processing-equipments/products/manual-benchtop-injection-molding-machine-mim-100
youtube.com/watch?v=n0ISGwQ9kjk
removeddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7syeal/user_guess_whos_black_aspiring_maxkeys_calm/?author=Guess_whos_black
aliexpress.com/item/Dye-sublimated-cherry-profile-pbt-material-japanese-keycaps-for-usb-wried-mechanical-keyboard/32811343072.html
pastebin.com/efBJBVhB
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Are plum topre clones any good?

maybe

no you don't need to spend that much money just to make simple keycaps

micronanotools.com/collections/plastic-processing-equipments/products/manual-benchtop-injection-molding-machine-mim-100

it would be DIY not mass production, if you look that machine the hardest part is the heating element i think that if i give to my local smith the plans he can pull it off except of the electronical components

the molds are the most expensive part, which for some reason you're ignoring. If you really think it's gonna cost you less then 10 grand for a full set you've got some delusions to over come, but hey it's a learning experience and it sounds like you're too lazy to do so anyway

im not ignoring anithing, just hoping that my local CNC servuce is able to pull it off, the molds can be made out of aluminum and as i said in the last thread i could design a keycap made by a lathe rather than a cnc, i don't know how but i think its doable.

You are the delusional thinking that plastic parts where always made with those sophisticated machines

when did I say that? you're just putting words in my mouth. link me to the exact post where I said that

>10 grand for a full set you've got some delusions to over come
>not spent on machinery
ye ok what ever you implied there

>a mold is a sophisticated machine
good one
anyway it's your money and if you want to throw it away then be my guest

Attached: Smug_7.jpg (211x239, 8K)

Bitching about keyboards general

i don't want to fight about this user... i give you a free hug.
This guy is just using a drill bench and you can see that the mold is nothing special, i think its doable man even if its one key per press
youtube.com/watch?v=n0ISGwQ9kjk

>the mold is nothing special
that's what you think. keycaps are much harder to mold then a circle

Why not 3D print them? A good one costs around 500-600 bucks and you could easily make prototypes faster and cheaper then having to make a new mold every time

>he doesn't know the glory that is 980 layout

Attached: IMG_20180417_155314-01.jpg (4032x2268, 2.68M)

you mean 1800. I still think 96key looks better

Attached: tx1800cp.jpg (1280x720, 122K)

you think that 3D will make proper stems?
duno will end up making both

Lots of people just dye sub their own keycaps from gateron blanks. You can do so much insane shit with it but you're limited to the profile/material of whatever blanks you can find.
I saw someone make a nearly perfect GMK laser clone but with pbt.
If I had real adult money I would totally go this route and get a good dye sub printer.
Fuck you could even sell them.

What's the point of the arrow keys there, just use the numpad.

Depending on the printer. If you cheap out you might get fitting issues, but it shouldn't really be a problem

Attached: keychatter_2015-07-14_03-14-24.jpg (1000x562, 44K)

make sure it's a vacuum sublimation printer

>want a 60% Leopold in white but the white case looks off white almost yellowish/tan
Anyone actually have one of these things?

could you provide an image user

I have a white leopold PD. It's the one in it is off white. I have four white boards and the only one that is really 100% white is the varmilo.
That said it's still white enough(the leopold) and the stock keycaps are basically the best keycaps available so no need to replace them and worry about color matching.
The boards also have sound dampening inside of them which is quite nice.
They really are the best prebuilt that isn't topre, and their topres are the best topres.
Fuck yeah leopoold
it's going to take me a good hour of scrolling but i will try

giv this man some scrolling energy

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA! AAAAAAAAAAAAA!

So you don't have to switch numlock off to scroll dummy

I'm thinking of getting one of the 980s with blues, do you have any idea how noisy they are?

>be me CEO of leopold
>make top tier keyboards that aren't even that overpriced compared to shit like HHKBs
>people love them and my products have an almost cult like following
>man, I remember going to college with my friend the CEO of unicomp, maybe I'll give him a call and share some business tips
>...nah international calling is too expensive

Apparently there was alot of drama on reddit about this. Copying sets through dye subbing i mean. I got side tracked trying to learn how reddit search works so I could find it, I know the drama happened around 1/25 and have the user name of the guy involved but he deleted his account.
Any way here is your pic
I also have all the pics needed to dyesub a set should you know a dyesubber

Attached: laserknock.png (1176x867, 1.66M)

I bought a non-working AEK2 for $67 to harvest the keycaps and possibly switches off, did I fuck up?

No one owns a color scheme and I guess doing that is fine if it's for personal use, but it turns into a dick move when you start pumping these out at anytime before or during a group buy for the original thing.

Better pic
and heres all the butthurt removeddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/7syeal/user_guess_whos_black_aspiring_maxkeys_calm/?author=Guess_whos_black
thinking about doing everything in my power to rip off every single popular gmk set and sell them enmasse, specifically ones that have not been delivered yet, to fuck over these sniveling little faggots
im a dick fuck reddit

Attached: betterpiclaserripoff.jpg (3264x2448, 988K)

o wow that's cool finish and very impressive, never tough about that, i wanted to do the reverse of this putting a sticker and spray painting the negative but this seems much easyer

it probably is working, but that seem to be the price these things are going for

does anyone have that flowchart to help decide on what switch to use? I am currently using some shitty chinkswitches from this z-88 I bought and I need to decide if i want box navy, jade, white or pale blue.

if they were cheap I'd buy a set, depending on what you offered and whether or not they were pbt

you mean the meme one

Attached: flow chart.png (1560x963, 220K)

guys, what is the possibility of me getting keycaps from aliexpress that are a bit shrunk? they are pbt dyesubbed and all, but they seem just a tiny bit small. they are my first cherry profile. they also seem to have a bit of a tight fit on switches.
aliexpress.com/item/Dye-sublimated-cherry-profile-pbt-material-japanese-keycaps-for-usb-wried-mechanical-keyboard/32811343072.html

those look fine to me. cherry profile is shorter then OEM profile so maybe that's why they look "shrunk". also just know that if you have north facing switches the keycaps won't bottom out correctly

Every aftermarket keyset from China is guaranteed to have at least a few flaws.

Does anyone here have experience using blues in an apartment?
I'm gonna be moving into a two bedroom apartment with a roomate in a month or so and I don't want to get rid of my clicky keyboard.

depends are the walls made from cardboard, or are they up to code

what are north facing switches?
i hope its not a flaw. cos they are are all like that.

it's fine just make sure your walls aren't hard+flat
put up canvas paintings backed with acoustic foam where you can, and use a rug and rubber mat/pad

switches with the LED on the north side.

How do I make a layer toggle with a keypress (like caps lock) in QMK? All I've heard is 'Use TG(Layer) to toggle a layer on and off', but when I add this to my keymap.c I get errors when compiling. How do I do this correctly?

Could you just be referring to a layer that doesn't exist? Post your keymap.c and maybe I could spot the fuckup.

ye man you have to post the compiler error and the code snipet

also wtf have they done to the fucking doc page on QMK its fucking disgusting that crap script makes my firefox crash

I'm in the Laser GB and I don't see anything wrong with this.

neither did most people. it was just one autist who didn't even back the project and was samefagging to make it look like a big deal

I recently got some box navies and I want a nice quality vintage board to put them in, does anyone know where I should start.

Looking to do something similar to Chyros but with a different chassis

Sorry to keep you guys waiting, here's the keymap.c along with the error produced:

pastebin.com/efBJBVhB

just get a wyse of your choice

>RASE
typo

that's one error, the others are related to a library not for your layout i guess

...

Oops, forgot the pic

Attached: 1523899603491.png (1190x968, 807K)

I still don't know what the fuck this picture is supposed to tell me.

How do you people use anything but 104/105-key? My wireless 86-key makes me want to kill myself.

He's trying to say that beta males with the soylent grin are attracted to small form factor mechanical keyboards with non traditional colour schemes.

Basically what the image is saying is that if you don't prefer the big model M style mechanical keyboard then you are a cuckold.

Functionality > aesthetics, essentially a real man doesn't care and won't pay a premium for flashy shit - we aren't women.

careful mods might ban you

Attached: ssofa.png (1276x1048, 548K)

then do it

Holy shit lmao

>Functionality
>having to move your hands out of the main row is more functional
okay

who got b&? did it involve that picture?
You're just incompetent, I have no problem using a 60%, a 75%, tkl, and even have a full size board. Just don't be shit at life and it's easy

it happened a couple thread ago
you'd have to visit the archive since dozens of posts were deleted

>You're just incompetent, I have no problem using a 60%, a 75%, tkl, and even have a full size board. Just don't be shit at life and it's easy
yeah, that's why I use my phone as a monitor instead of an actual monitor.

>Budget
Under $100 USD
>Location (continent at least)
United states, West coast
>Preferred switch type
Brown mx
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
100%
>Backlight
Blue color preffered. RGB is fine
>Previous/current keyboards
Just want something different

>tfw romer-g
>tfw totally into femdom
pretty accurate user, congratulations for such a fine work

is that a felt spacebar?

I use a numpad with my 87. It's great to have the pad on the left.

R8 my future keeb i rendered.

hmu kwentin#3197

Attached: Screen Shot 2018-04-09 at 22.37.35.png (1349x988, 428K)

You two are actually the scum of the fucking earth.
Here have a keyboard undoubtedly nicer than any you have.
and gb2gaia

Attached: foryoug.jpg (4032x3024, 1021K)

Keyboard weeaboos are pathetic.

Attached: Screenshot_20180323-180140.png (2220x1080, 1.25M)

Mine is cuter
σ(≧ε≦o)

Attached: Pawn 35%.png (885x957, 1.83M)

I get that you are jealous of his $1200 HHKB and that is okay, it's natural. At some point you gather enough life experience to appreciate the things that inspire envy in you as sources of motivation instead of distress.
Foreign alphabet sublegends are incredibly tasteful and aesthetic.
Shut the fuck up.

Attached: IMG_20171125_141758.jpg (3024x4032, 2.22M)

>three shift keys
unironically kys

why so rude
(⌯˃̶᷄ ﹏ ˂̶᷄⌯)゚

Attached: 20160825_210926.jpg (5312x2988, 2.2M)

since when does a HHKB not use rubber domes? that doesn't look like one

The keyboard here is a black hhkb type s with 55g domes transplanted into it from a realforce 87u 55g and the keycaps are from a JUSTSYSTEMS realforce. It does use rubber domes.
Unless you were talking about this which is just a standard tkl

my bad i thought you were talking about the keyboard with all the ugly stickers

The keyboard with the tastefully applied animu stickers is a hand painted(to white) tina-c from kbdfans with epbt sushi, looks like a zeal60 pcb from the backlighting, and a cute zap cable.
Just in case you wanted to emulate such perfection.

Entry-level /v/ermin anime is far from perfection.

>have a 100% with cherry browns
>have a 60% with gateron browns
>have a 40% with cherry clears
Should I cop a 65% with kaihua browns? I feel like 3 is enough...

Get a board with box navies.

Why are you buying practically the same switch?

Get something with greetech black, desolder them and lube them. It's the hot new thing out of korea. Supposedly amazing linears.
be gone click preaching trash

Attached: magna-bomb.jpg (4160x3120, 917K)

no thx I'd rather get a wrap instead

>he doesn't like clicky switches

Attached: 1508269974245.jpg (1280x720, 330K)

They all feel different for me I guess. I hate straight linear (reds) and clicky switches (blues), what other switch should I get?

Wait for box royals then.

I do, there just aren't any good ones yet. Navy seems good because everything else is so bad but it is too heavy and the whole shit falls apart with jade because it doesn't return as well.
Easier to get tactile and linear right. For linear all you need is lube basically but it can be improved with smoother stems and housings, they're the easiest. Tactile is just about anything with an mx clear stem or topre.
Alps are for fags.

Also forgot to add tactile preffered keyboard.

>too heavy
I kept reading this, but I just got a bag of them in the other day and I have no idea what people are complaining about. They're not even as heavy as MX greens.

Boards feel drastically different to people based on what they are used to. Mine don't even feel like the same keyboards to me anymore.
You have to consider how your keyboard changes how you type. For the 5 years I had mechanical keyboards I bottomed out every switch hard as fuck, including clears which bottom out at like 100g or some shit. When I switched to topre I kept typing as I always had but after a month on topre I went back to clears and all of sudden I can type on them without bottoming out. I can type on browns without bottoming out. Notice here I went down in weight from clears to topre. Keep in mind this only happened because I used EXCLUSIVELY topre for that month. Previously I would switch keyboards all the time, sometimes more than once a day, and this change in typing would never had have happened if it were not for the exclusivity.
You don't find navies to be as heavy as your greens after coming from a board presumably using greens exclusively for an extended period of time.
Imagine someone going from maybe a light clicky to a navy, they would be like holy shit this is so fatiguing.

Attached: 1501794490786.jpg (2000x1121, 343K)

How come after 9 years I have never broken any caps, stabilizers, springs or tabs, never had a squeak or a dead key?

Attached: 2018 keyboard.jpg (2400x1600, 1.04M)

that TINA of yours is nice indeed, but it will be nicer if you did the stickers better. I can see a lot of inconsistency and cracks here and there

Actually the board I'm using now has 67g memeios. Although I did have clears & mx whites in the past so I am familiar with those heavier switches. Right now I'm just debating whether I want to desolder the memeios or build another ergodox.

Attached: IMG_20180322_150600.jpg (2934x1566, 846K)

ghoul manga sticker or water dip?

It's actual pages and clear coat.

Attached: lovedomes.jpg (1024x768, 86K)

I used RASE because that was the name of the key that activated the layer. I've also tried 2 , the layer number, as well as _RAISE and RAISE .

Any suggestions for a tactile keyboard with brown mx switches? Under $100 and in America.