/pcbg/ PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and _monitor_ suggestions; click on the blue title to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find a lot more detailed videos on channels like Bitwit)
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install Win7 on Ryzen
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1
>DO NOT OVERCLOCK ON RYZEN 2000 SERIES
If you are on the new X470 or B450 platforms letting precision boost 2 do its job gets better performance
If you want help:
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs:
>NO Core i7/5/3 7000 series. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY COFFEE LAKE
>NO Ryzen 1000 series. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY THE Ryzen 2000 SERIES
>R3 2200G - Bare minimum gaming WITH/WITHOUT a graphics card (Low end)
>R5 2600X - Great gaming or multithreaded use CPU (Mid range)
>R7 2700X - Best gaming CPU / VM Work / Streaming / Video editing (High end)
>TR 1950X/Used Xeon - VM Work / Streaming / Video editing (HEDT)

RAM:
>Current CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000-3200 MHz is ideal
>Before buying RAM for Ryzen, check your Mobo's QVL or look for user reports

Graphics cards:
>Crypto-Currency miners have driven GPU prices up (particularly Radeon)
1080p
>MSRP of standard 1080p cards: 1050Ti, 140USD; 1060 3GB, $200; 1060 6GB, $230; RX 570 4GB, $170; RX 580 4GB, $200
>GTX 1070 if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and 1080 are standard choices; currently overpriced
>GTX 1080Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
2160p (4K)
>GTX 1080Ti

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 240GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor

Previous:

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Other urls found in this thread:

overclockers.co.uk/aerocool-vs-92-black-edition-midi-tower-black-ca-127-ae.html),
nzxt.com/products/s340-white
overclockers.co.uk/aerocool-vs-92-black-edition-midi-tower-black-ca-127-ae.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/knLF8Y
pcpartpicker.com/list/ZW9JV6
pcpartpicker.com/list/jk8bhy
gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1060-3GB-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1050-Ti/3646vs3649
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

msi gaming x 1080 for 625$ tax included yes or no?

8700k

>less cache
>less cores
>no cooler
>14nm
~$350 (400+ with cooler)

2700x

>more cache
>more cores
>good cooler
>12nm
~$300

The 8700 does have integrated graphics, but other than that, it's silly to complain.

I cant tell if hes trolling or not, shills are just that outrageous

You forgot to mention that the 2700X has a soldered heat spreader and with the 8700k you'd have to pay for delidding.

I don't think he was, he looked genuinely upset lmao.
Yeah, thanks, I also contemplated adding PB2 and XFR2 but I don't know if intel has something similar to even it out. If anyone has more of these I can make a image which compares the two, I think there's gonna be a lot of discussion about those two CPU's so we might as well make a FAQ image or something?

Nothing in his post is actually true, why are you picking that one line

Yes. Virtually every Ryzen 2700X can handle 3466. ~70% can handle 3533. Non-X CPUs can have slightly worse mem controllers.
You should have no trouble running any 3200 rated RAM on any Ryzen.

Seasonic are the manufacturer who makes most of the best PSUs for other brands.
They make the best cheap PSUs worth buying. Though EVGA tend to be good, and newer Rosewill are okay.
"grey label" Corsair are trash.

Half true. The highest end Seasonic models are sometimes Silverstone brand or another, and not sold under the Seasonic brand.

Also some other manufacturers have gotten much better, like even Superflower...

The important thing you're missing is the cooler cost for 8700k. Usually add Delid to that. 8700k is really $90-$130 more and you void your warranty delidding.

But I still think an 8700k is worth considering, even given that extra cost for just a little more single threaded performance potential.

Seems to be trolling, comparing the 7820X which is 1920X price now and still not even soldered.

I was researching the 2700x for my build and knew the differences on the top of my head, don't know too much about the rest so decided not to talk out of my ass.
I was trying to be generous, added ($400 with cooler) in the post. The 8700k is a viable CPU, no one denies that, but for 90% of use cases the 2700x edges it out, and even costs less, so it makes sense to put it in the recommended slot.

I actually missed the parenthesis. Yeah.
>but for 90% of use cases the 2700x edges it out
True. Depends how much emphasis on pure gaming someone has and if they're autistic about "extreme overclocking".
The PB2 overclocking in Ryzen is much more interesting, imo.

cheapest case (but can go higher if needed) that:

1) necessity
>bottom mounted PSU
>ATX
>holes below the PSU
>not compartmentalized (nothing coverin PSU from top)
>holes in the top (enough for two fans)
>more holes in the bottom besides the holes for the air for PSU (at least enough to mount one fan at the bottom)
>not too small legs (so air can get to the bottom holes easily)

2)nice to have
>side (not up) facing audio jack and USB
>more holes for more fans

Necessities are not negotiable, since I have a convection cooling build. Sadly broke the additional I/O and kinda need it. Would buy same case I have already, but it's long ded.

So I found something I liked for 50 bucks (overclockers.co.uk/aerocool-vs-92-black-edition-midi-tower-black-ca-127-ae.html), but now I got to thinking that something without the optical drives/HDDs slos would be far better (all that wasted space, I can throw the SSD fucking wherever).

Anybody has recommendations or maybe a site where I could search something like (7 fan mounting places, no HDD slots)?

I'm going to be saving up money for my new build over the next 4-5 months.
I was wondering if it was smarter to buy it all at the end when I have all the funds together, or if I should just buy the parts piecemeal as I get money for them (or if I see a certain part go on sale). Thoughts?

I guess it got too wordy, let me rewrite it:

>PC case
>no drive bays
>ATX
>bottom mounted PSU
>shitton of fan mounting spaces, at least one on the bottom and two on top

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Generally the price of parts tends to go down or stay level rather than going up(although admittedly GPUs and RAM haven't been following that trend lately) and new ones come out on a regular basis, so it doesn't make much sense to buy parts to hold onto them while waiting to complete a build. The only exception would be if you're getting a great deal on something.

less wordy please

>case

I can't decide if lack of dual bios is a dealbreaker. Also someone explain what the silicone lottery is please.

nzxt.com/products/s340-white but PSU can't be blocked on top, more holes top and bottom and windows are gay.

Thoughts on the MSI Optix MAG27CQ? Might get it, it would be my first 1440p 144hz monitor.

Thermaltake Core W100 is your friend. Lots of space, lots of fan mounts.

>no drive bays
All that wasted space (I only use one SSD). Maybe make the case 1mX1mX1m while you're at it?

You can remove them you troglodyte.
Try out the PC-D600WA from Lian Li if you need ot go bigger.

And still have a fuckhueg case for no fucking reason.
overclockers.co.uk/aerocool-vs-92-black-edition-midi-tower-black-ca-127-ae.html with the front cut off would be great.
inb4
>cut it off then
It would look like shit.

Buy a mac you fucking faggot

Why would I if I have a working PC (apart from IO on the case)? If I'm changing cases anyway I thought maybe something not shit existed out there.
If I have to settle I will just buy the Aerocool.

DELID DIS THREAD

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He's right though.
PCs with any 3.5 bays, let alone having a fuckton of them, are retarded for anything but NAS.

2.5" drives are good now. 3.5" HDDs and optical drives are old outdated shit.

Dual BIOS is nice to have but it isn't something most people will use all the time
Silicon lottery is the die-to-die (and wafer-to-wafer, et cetera) quality difference in microprocessors and DRAM. This is mostly relevant for overclocking, as better dies will clock higher, and (not necessarily, OC is not a consistent process) use lower voltages per-clock or have higher tolerance toward unsafe voltages.

What the fuck do you do when you have a steam library with hundreds of games or you have lots of torrents
Investing in multiple terabytes of solid state is thousands of dollars and 2.5" HDDs make no sense

I delete games I'm not playing.

I have 2 1TB SSDs and a 2GB 2.5" HDD.
I'll upgrade at some point a 2TB SDD and 4-8GB 2.5" HDD.

Just threw this together since I plan on building my second computer soon and I'm rebuilding from nearly scratch. I'm keeping my old GPU instead of upgrading it because I was fortunate enough to upgrade my GPU before the miners bought them out, so I would like some opinions on this build or part replacements. Thank you in advance.

What I'm not so sure on:
>CPU cooler (pcpartpicker mentions this: The Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler may require a separately available mounting adapter to fit the Asus - CROSSHAIR VI HERO ATX AM4 Motherboard.)
>Mobo
Also, I may or may not downgrade to 500 GB SSD instead of 1 TB. I'm not sure, yet. What could be different for this build? My budget is about $1300ish.

Here's what I generally do on my computer:
>Stream for some friends
>Play video games
>Photoshop and video editing

Oh and here's the pcpartpicker link: pcpartpicker.com/list/knLF8Y

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The 2700x comes with a very good stock cooler, you shouldn't even consider an aftermarket cooler that normally goes for less than $60.

>including a cooler that's worse than the stock cooler
l m a o
user, just delete that and buy me a $30 game on Steam instead.

And get a different PSU. Seasonic titanium fanless maybe? It's a little bit cheaper and better outside of not having corsair link (assuming that one has Corsair Link)
Looks good otherwise.

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>2018
>212 evo

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Deleting files ends up wearing down the SSD, and not having games stored means waiting for download which can be quite a while if you have mediocre internet like I do
212 evo is probably not even better than stock for overall temps (and lacks stock AM4 support), and neither one is great for a maximum OC.
Get the VII Hero if you're spending that much already
FOCUS Plus 850 Gold will save you a few bucks over the RMx

>

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>Deleting files ends up wearing down the SSD
Get an SSD that isn't shit and can handle deleting and installing programs lmao.
>and not having games stored means waiting for download which can be quite a while if you have mediocre internet like I do
Get faster internet omg

It's an inherent flaw with solid state
You can chew through them all with enough use
Getting faster internet would mean moving 70 miles

Upgrading my cpu so that means new mother board and a fresh install of windows, though I've never reused my old hard drives until now. I have a 500gb ssd for the os and a 2tb hdd for mass storage.
My question do I wipe both drives before doing a new install or is that done when windows is installing. There's nothing on either drive I want to save.

Windows formats the OS drive, not any secondary ones.

I'm all for the 2700x, but you should at least include the 8700k. It's still the best gaymen CPU.
I do agree on AMD for the rest, 8600k is a joke and the 2600x is too good of a buy compared to the 8400.
APUs for the rest are fine too.

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Sounds good, thanks

>It's an inherent flaw with solid state
It's mostly theoretical these days unless you buy cheap crap or are writing on them 24/7.

2700x is a great choice all around.
Don't get the 212 EVO, the stock cooler is probably better. If you want an aftermarket cooler, then consider the NH-D15.
Mobo is fine, but make sure it supports the rated speeds from your memory kit.
Fast ram is nice.
I've been running a 1TB SSD since 2014 or so and it's definitely a good choice.

The 8700K's advantage is whittled down to a bit of frequency that can only be really hit with a delid and latency (which can matter for some people but overall doesn't justify the cost)
It doesn't make sense for 1080p, and 1440p games having a CPU bottleneck means you're already spending way more on video cards than most people ever should.

Ok, I'll remove the cooler. Thanks.

Is the VII Hero really worth it? That's adding another 100 to my build unless I'm seeing the price wrong on pcpartpicker.

I'll look into those PSUs too.

If not the VII Hero, it's still probably best to take advantage of X470 since it's an option.
Check out Buildzoid's breakdowns on AHOC and Gamers nexus

Building a backup NAS here in Yuropoor land, if I get a Dell Optiplex 7010 / I3 3240 / 4GB for around €90 and put a 4TB WD Red NAS drive in it would that make sense over buying an off-the-shelf NAS Synology?

I wish trying to find a good desk wasn't so gay.

Wasnt going for anything groundbreaking with my build, also have a 500gig ssd coming in the mail. It does what I need it to do, will probably upgrade the ram when needed.

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I got the Crosshair VII (With 2700x to match) for it's amount of I/O (Save me from buying USB cards), NVMe heatsink and more than likeliness to have better support/stability all around than other boards. Coming from a Crosshair V Formula Z and housefire FX-9590 and never had any issues.

If you don't have to suck a dick you aren't doing it right
Good, but 2133 memory is kinda slow

Someone redpill me on curved monitors. What's the difference?

I haven't built a pc for like 15 years,totally out of my depth now.

>15 years
Jesus fuck
Just build this pcpartpicker.com/list/ZW9JV6

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its easier than ever man

Where's my steam game? >[
Also you have to pat my head and call me "imouto'.

>Is the VII Hero really worth it
Depends if it has features you really want.
You do need 400 series for StoreMi.
But people are getting good results on 300 series boards which have BIOs update to support "precision boost overdrive", which imo is what you want to use if you're overclocking for day to day usage and not for simply posting scores. But not all 300 series boards have that updated to add.
Otherwise, most 400 series boards have massive overkill VRMs that could easily support 50% higher power draw.

Personally, I only do mATX boards. And picking out the mATX boards that are actual feature rich narrows down to very few options. There tends to be higher end mITX than mATX for some asinine reason.

get Crucial Ballistix Sport ram and OC it instead. Dual rank benefits especially so with APUs.
Solid build and the exact other parts I'd pick out, otherwise. Though I'd look for 2400G sales. They go on sale pretty often it seems and you can save like 20bux more.

Do you think there’ll be a new Intel CPU anytime soon? There were rumours about a 8 core chip and new chipsets.

I’m planning to build a Hackintosh since Linux is quite poor with per screen fractional scaling. Only Gnome has partial support but it’s very broken so AMD isn’t an option. Use case is multitasking and running multiple VMs over multiple high res screens

Looks less flat
Nice, I guess? Shouldn't be a dealbreaker either way.
Cases are a lot easier to work in, same sorta goes with modular PSUs. BIOS looks much more refined
Otherwise you should just know about CPU/GPU performance, cooler performance, and RAM die performance range if you're into that
Probably soon if they do Coffee Lake additions (or some other form of 14nm), probably late this year at the earliest for anything 10nm
Might be worth waiting for Z390 though

Not as soon as people keep alluding to.
They still don't have the Xeons out with the Meltdown fix, which the rumored 8 core are based on. The Xeons will be out first.

pcpartpicker.com/list/jk8bhy
How would this build do in modern games?

What's the difference between gtx 1060 and 1050 ti? Which is better?

You will be fine, I have almost the same setup except my 1050 is just a regular gtx and not a Ti. I play gta, Diablo 3, nba 2k18, WoW, Elder Scrolls Online and CS:GO and I never experience lag in any of those games and all are running on high settings.

1050Ti is a little weaker than a 7970 and 1600 is fine.
Don't waste money on that cooler. Just use the stock one.

Also $200 is way too fucking much to pay for a 1050Ti.
If you HAVE to buy a new GPU, just get an RX560. You can save $40 that way.
An RX560 is weaker on average to a 1050Ti, but in many newer DX12/Vulkan games it actually matches its performance for a lot cheaper. Most older games have lower requirements to the point that its worse performance in those don't matter so much.

what het fuck
go look at bnechmarks

gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/Nvidia-GTX-1060-3GB-vs-Nvidia-GTX-1050-Ti/3646vs3649

>userbenchmark
Why is that site not filtered on Jow Forums yet?
1060 3GB is not 60% above a 1050Ti LMFAO. It's like 20-50% on average if you remove outliers. I'll be generous and say 40%.
Hell in some fucking games, those outliers are the 3GB 1060 actually performing worse; it's such a shit card.

what x470 motherboard should I buy?
I wanted an mATX board but apparently they don't make those so I guess I'll have to go for a regular ATX board.

hey guys
i've got a problem with my new gpu. device manager doesn't seem to detect it, although my monitor is connected to it and i've got vision. it seems to work, but both my system and games i'm trying to play can't detect it.
anybody knows what's the problem?

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Give us a pic of the card inside your pc. Did you buy it used?

Misread that at first. Sounds like a driver issue. Have you downloaded one from Nvidia/AMD or are you running a Windows stock one?

Should I buy a 1050 ti and pair it with the r3 2200g?
Although an r5 1600/2600 and a 1060 6gb would be a better choice I really don't want to pay msrp for a 2 year old GPU (around 325 Eurobux) and I dont really need a more powerful cpu for shitposting and vidya.

nah i installed drivers from cd that came with it

>There were rumours about a 8 core chip and new chipsets.
not happening

Intel shills are too stubborn to admit that z390 if it even exists is a cannonlake part and at best will be seen some time around 2H 2019 along with cannonlake

Is it 1995? Get yourself a up to date driver and retry. What card do you even have? What are your other specs?

Thanks bros. I can wait till computex. Should I?

Feels bad that I can’t get the new Ryzens :(

go the manufacturers website and download the newest drivers. I'm pretty sure that's standard practice with every piece of hardware.

Thank you user for the explanation. Maybe I'll get the asus rog hero then.

There was some talk about Z390 supporting both Cannon lake and coffee lake. What about the X399 with the X series CPUs?

Fractal Design Define S for you senpai.
Thinking of going for this one myself. It has a side fan too which really helps on GPU temps if you're into that sort of thing. But thats only on the non-glass version.

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Cascade lake sometime in 2018H2. I don't think there's anything more specific about it yet.

ok, downloading drivers rn. gonna write if worked

Oh well. Guess I’ll pull the trigger in a couple of weeks when I get my credit card. They have EMIs here for credit card purchases with rates of around 13% pa.

bump

you going to need a new chipset goyim

I'm up to $650 saved. In a couple of months I'll have enough money to buy my first PC. Though it seems like people would recommend waiting for new Nvidia GPUs to launch which might also line up with ryzen 3 or threadripper 2.

Buy a new motherboard you stupid goyum.

>no drive cages
>don't just make it smaller, leave useless empty space
N-nice. I can just as well buy any other case with cages.

Please respond.

is the 860 evo 250gb good? i can get one on sale for 57 eurobucks

The big guys have other sizes ready, launching them next month so why not wait for your mATX?

Among the best SSDs you can get right now, buy it while you can.

how else is gonna play?

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If you dont want the space in front you can get the Define C which is smaller than regular ATX cases, but you lose a fan on top and on the side.

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Is the shroud removable? My PSU is passive so blocking the airflow is a big no-no.

Nah, its fixed. But there are holes for the PSU and a hatch at the front to open up airflow for the bottom fan. Thats all I have user, sorry if it wasn't any help.

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Thanks for input, but doesn't seem ideal for convection (fanless) cooling, a bit too little airflow from the bottom.
Seems like I will have to once again settle for a normal case with drive bays, as the bayless scene doesn't satisfy my edge case.
Maybe in five more years.

Passive PSUs should function within spec even with limited airflow (temps usually don't change unless air path is blocked entirely)

I would also want more air from the bottom to go through my fanless CPU and GPU coolers and anyway Seasonic explicitly tells you not to block the PSU in any way, maybe you only experienced low power PSUs and/or in low ambiet temp or maybe they are trying to cover their asses.
I mean maybe it would work but I'm not spending 100USD or more on a 'maybe'.

2700X owner myself. I agree with the user you're replying to. 8700K is still best option and some people just want the best, even if there are better value propositions from other components. And the 8700K can actually be found for a good price anyways.

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