/mkg/ - Memeboard General

I agree, now where can I get one?

traitor!

shipping must've been expensive

this layout is superior

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spacelet

cancer

this
Dasher keyboards are way better

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NOT A TRUE MK

commodore > dasher

>commodore
I have a lot of nostalgia for my family's C64, but the keyboard was not very good

ok but imagine the C64's layout with mx blues

that sounds horrible

But what if I need quadruple bucky?

ok so it's agreed:
space cadet > dasher > commodore

nah IBM side sluts are better

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Sure showed me

>ebin
Exactly what does this mean? It seems to be something stupid people say or at the least, 100% of the time I have observed it it was included in a stupid post.

I'm old, sorry.

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Nah it's cringy, get rid of it

Ironic misspelling of epic.

Aren't Jade literally White but better?

Which 75% keyboard should I build?The kbd75 or the b.mini?

yes and no

they sound better and have more tactility, but less reliability

your keyboard lags 30-50ms

mine only lags 0.2ms eat shit and upgrade

more like s᠍oyboards

no u

i post from my phone tho

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w-what what do you mean by this?

I just ordered a HHKB Type S and I'm a getting Zowie FK1. a-am I redditor?

Is it true that Kailh Box switches can have +/- 10gf actuation force? That sounds like a huge deal.

why do you think jades have reliability problems with the main spring sometimes being too weak to return past the click bar

This would be fine if not for having two identical boards, and the horrendous keycaps.

I really do not understang these 'artisan' caps. They just look ugly.

I think that's the whole point of that board.

>hey user, it looks like there is gummi candy stuck to your keyboard

definately.

Does anyone here like sampling chink cherry clone switches when they have a chance? Sometimes, I want to see just how much they've caught up and how low you can go for a decent mech. I've only sampled blue switches though, but from my experience:
Gateron>Cherry>=Outemu>>>Kailh/Razer>=everything else. It's pretty amazing how far we've come in terms of choice and value since those Cherry patents expired. If only the same could happen to DRAM.

Vintage Alps (blue/amber/plate spring) vs box (navy)?

It's been two months since I bought this Ducky One, and 2 LEDs are already dead.
The cable also disconnects everytime I move my keyboard of a few inches.
What are some good full-size keyboards with backlighting that will last longer than this shit?

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Alps all day

>good
>fullsize
>backlighting
HA

I'm not a fan of clicky switches, but since I've tried all of those, Alps amber would be my choice

Amber over SKCP? I really like how the plate spring sounds from videos, but the extra tactility in ambers is tempting

I found blue alps to be underwhelming since I like nice heavy tactile switches, but everyone has their preferences and for me the more tactile switch is what I go for

plate springs are fun to type on, just know that depending on which keyboard you get they have some issues working with modern operating systems

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So i want to get my first mecha board, i do tons of coding but also gaming on my keyboard
I see that cherries are the best, but which color should i get?
I want something that isn't too hard to press, something like the rubber thing keyboard i have now, should i go for red cherries?

>cherries are the best

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Yeah i definitely don't one of of those incredibly niché brands that nobody in the world has never even heard of outside of one specific general on Jow Forums where local autists get boners over it
cherries are globally the most recognized so that is what i want, plus they have the biggest collection of caps

>plus they have the biggest collection of caps
All Cherry clones are compatible with them, and all newer switches are Cherry compatible even if they aren't mechanically similar.

They switches or the keyboard? Because I plan to harvest switches to put into maybe an ergodox or something.

Anybody who is into mechanical keyboards will have heard of at least Alps, Gateron and Kailh. The difference with cherry is it's known outside the hobbyist community.

Fuck, Alps for instance are about as old and well respected as cherry (though they aren't compatible with cherry keycaps)

Go for a Gateron switch, superior to Cherry across the board and cheaper too, it feels much smoother. If those aren't readily available that's when you go Cherry. It's always best to try them out in an actual store since the implementation of each switch can vary from keyboard to keyboard.

I can't really try shit because where i live there is literally nothing here, i have to order everything online and pray i made a good choice

Where do you live? Your options online might be significantly limited if you're in a country where having keyboards shipped from China might be too costly.

czech republic
i usually order from china over aliexpress with free shippinh but i don't like to shop there much since it takes a month for the shit to arrive

I'm building a custom MX board to go with my topres and selling my prebuilt MX boards.
I'm torn between two switch options.I like to be able to use each of my boards for everything. I'm concerned that click bar will be so tactile that its not enjoyable to spam keys in games. On the other hand I'm worried about linears having no tactility at all resulting in me not using them.
1) Click bar(with SA caps, produces very nice sound)
2) MX Silent with 62g springs and housing swap as well as lube
Which should I go with?

I meant the keyboards, but if you plan on harevesting them I don't think they're compatible with ALPS PCBs so you're gonna have to custom build one

funny thing is that chink switches are more recognized then cherry, but if you fell for the memes I don't blame ya

I hate to tell you this but aliexpress is probably where you'll find the best deal for a decent mech. If budget is not an issue, and you can't wait, Cherrys from a big brand are a safe choice, just not anything particularly special. If you can wait though, Gaterons are the best Cherry clones, and the general opinion is that they can be even smoother than Cherrys. Other Cherry clones worth mentioning are Outemus and Kailhs. I'm not knowledgeable when it comes to the best brands and particular keyboards though, so someone else here might be able to help you out there.
For Cherrys and their clones, the three most common switches are red, blue and brown. Red is linear (no bump as you press it down) and requires a lighter press, for this reason, gamers like it since it's easier to spam key combinations with it.
Blues are the loud, clicky switches with a tactile bump as you press them down. More force is required to press them down but the tactile feedback and distinct sound mean that people who type a lot often prefer it.
Browns are an in between, without the clickiness but with a bit of tactile feedback still, but the general consensus is that Cherry MX Browns just feel like a "dirty" red, like a red that got dirt stuck in it. If you think a brown might suit you considering you're both coding and gaming, this is where you should go Gateron. Honestly though, I've been able to type and game on all three of these types of switches and their clones no problem. It's all going to feel better than a membrane anyway.

Why didn't you stop me, /mkg/? Now I have two of these and I don't know what to do with them

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just sell them to some dumb redditor

I can't even figure out why they feel so different when comparing them to each other. I can't sell them off without resolving the mystery first.

maybe cause they're weighted differently

Both are 45g uniform, the leopold feels heavier, though. Snappier, more similar to a mechanical switch - I prefer it to the realforce board.

Which keyboard on aliexpes would you recommend then? I needs to have numpad and backlighting and the price should be under $180

What's that cute yellow and white keyset that's supposed to drop sometime soon?
It's got weird ass symbols for modifier keys.

I want to excersise while im gaming. Where i can get a keyboard where the switches are at least 2kg?

Maybe you can mod some switches with valve springs from a car engine or something

I told you bro
I told you Leopolds were better and you were wasting your cash on the realforce.

What does "half-mechanical" mean?
I assume it's trash.

Yeah lemme get one of them 200% keyboards

well technically all keyboards are mechanical

they probably mean it's a rubber dome over membrane keyboard with an added clicking mechanism

I'm guessing it's a dome with slider board.

it means it's being made from recycled materials

it's just a marketing term applied to fancy rubber dome keyboards.

Also
this, except for touchscreen keyboards maybe

This
I don't know how I'd function without a diamond button and an abort button.

It's a marketing term generally applied to topre boards since it's debatable if they are truly "mechanical". Since they have more in common with rubberdome and membrane boards, the call them "half-mechanical" or "hybrid mechanical" to keep them in the same category.

Aw fuck. Thanks for the info though

Literally prove it.

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Why did I get into this shitty hobby? I spend too much money.
I see people buy razer/Corsair/Logitech keyboards at work and judge them.

what is a good size for o-rings to silence my MX Red keyboard? is 40 good?

You're fucking autistic. I see you shilling about your keyboard in every fucking thread here.
>m-muh oh dot two milluh secunds

ok, you with the gun and board pics. you are like always here and always have new pics. can you like put a little note with a timestamp on it or something so i know you are getting these in real time? i'm just curious.

He's not wrong on the first part - key press travel alone easily accounts for 5-15ms. Most controllers are also not optimised for latency, and will only scan the matrix a few times per second - even at 200Hz, that's up to 5ms delay between scans. Now we're up in the ballpark of 10-20ms and that's not even considering any inefficiencies in actually processing the signal into a data packet to send over USB, or the 5-10ms delay for debouncing (which most keyboards apply before sending the keypress for some reason, based on what I've read).

For reference, qmk documentation states the scanning should run "at least 10 times per second" - meaning, worst case, you can have 100ms between scans and STILL be functioning completely normally and up to spec - while I read somewhere (but forgot the source) that some old keyboards (back when cost efficiency wasn't a priority) would scan at like 50kHz.

On the other hand, reducing travel time to a couple milliseconds, using optical non-bouncing switches and a good controller will still not get you anywhere near 0.2ms, so he's blatantly wrong there.

>mongoloids use model Ms with 20+ year old springs and membranes
>buy a unicomp with a brand new membrane
HUURRR IT DOESN'T FEEL THE SAME BUY A CUM ENCRUSTED KEYOBARD OFF EBAY FOR (after that video) $200
I genuinely hate "technology enthusiasts". They're all just fucking hoarders. Pathetic.

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>tfw only have one keyboard (anny pro with reds)
>tfw won't buy another one until i have the time to build a custom 60%
>tfw not a buypig
feels good man

> always have new pics
How new? He's been reposting the same pictures for months. Some are more frequent than others.

This one might be new since I don't recognise the gun, but if so that's a historic event. I do have limited autism lurking here so I might have just missed him posting it before.

>not just using your dads old model M

this one and the one with the money he posted here i haven't seen yet.

my dad never owned a computer until 2007
The only piece of technology I had until 2008 was a compaq PC clone running dos, then some shitty gateway all in one I found until 2013, then a netbook was my only computer until 2014, then a T61, then an x201, then an 8470p.