/avg/ /ag/ - audiophile thread

Tell me why this horn is bad

Audibly kek'd

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Where did you get this from?
Scale is oddly small.
>Tell me why this horn is bad
Really?
Off-axis response should be smooth. There are preferences on how wide or narrow the sound radiation pattern should be, and this is room dependent, but it is a general imperative that the response is smooth.
Is that cancellation in the center?

Klipsch forums. K402 horn from a jubilee

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>hurrrr im gonna spend thousands of dollars to get frequencies I can't even hear

Why are audiophiles so fucking stupid?

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i liked the picture better with apu

Just found a 5.5th gen iPod classic with the elusive 64mb ram and Wolfon DAC audio chip at the Goodwill near me for $50. Took it home, pulled out all the parts, and returned the case with an old broken screen and hard drive in it. Used it to fix my iPod SSD mod, which broke after it got wet and a chip blew on the motherboard:

512gb space, 3000mah battery that pulls me in a week charge, and all black case with red click wheel

What a niglet move

It looks like a 4-5k resonance or something. That's problematic, but It doesn't look horrible on the whole.
Was that a serious comment earlier?

High tech, low life. Deal with it mama's boy.

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>tfw DT770s came in the mail
still a poorfag but it feels good man

>what is the richard clark amplifier challenge
Imagine spending $100k on placebo

Kill yourself nigger

Possibly the final thing being upgraded in my setup.

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Sounds more like low tech low life.

Is probably listening to a mp3.

>i ripped off a goodwill store
>im so proud of my life choices

Congrats. So now some poor schmuck will buy it for $50 only to find there isn't even an iPod inside it.

Wtf is this?
The where's the frog addition?

HOW DID I DO, LADS? Am I entry level audiophile now or still a normie?

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Well, they're probably not shit.

Good but probably not audiophile.

they're really great. still not sure if I should up the bass a bit or just run it at "0" though.

The audiophile buys equipment that produces a nearly flat frequency response, and plays music with no equalizer. Equalizers are for compensating for poor equipment.

Non audiophiles though will turn the bass up because a favorite song came up and they wanna thump.

More like audiophiles will buy 10 times more equipment than they need, making their set-up essentially snake oil. Non-audiophiles just buy a good receiver, amp, and speakers

There's different levels of audiophile. Some will get a player with a good DAC, a good amp, some nice speakers, make sure they connect it in a way that doesn't introduce ground loops or other obvious interference, and stop there. Others go wild with the designer tube amps, dumb garden hose cables, cable lifters, and pebbles.

cont'd
The first I would say just loves his music and wants it to sound good.
The second group is audiophools.

...

thats gonna depend on the projector. Some lenses can throw that tall and shorter lengths. do your research.

theif.

>Equalizers are for compensating for poor equipment.

No, equalizer are for compensating for any limitation in reproduction, not just poor equipment.

insisting that the equipment account for 90% of the flatness of the response is ok standard for quality.

Insisting that the speakers account for the last 5% of flatness at 10x the cost, or 10x the space, or half the efficiency/sensitivity isn't for everyone.

I have space, so i don't need to spend 5x the money for needlessly compact designs that cant extend below 60hz.

Yes. You're compensating for lack of flatness in your speakers. That's still poor equipment.

I said it was for any, not just speakers.

You think professional audio engineers that work concerts, even in heavily treated theatre type venues, don't use an EQ?

Using an equalizer is like buying nice jeans and then ripping them. Or buying a print of the Mona Lisa so you could give her a moustache.

You're altering the sound to something that suits your own hearing. If the equipment is shit, you will need to compensate to get it as close to the original sound it's supposed to have.

There's nothing inherently wrong with using an equalizer. It was created for a reason. It's just that muh audiophags think it's some kind of boogeyman.

He's right though, the audio engineers use reasonably good equipment, but not the grade stuff audiophiles get.

With cheaper equipment, some songs sound good because the inherent curve of the speakers works with the sound, while it makes other songs sound like liquid ass.

With good equipment, all songs sound good because the curve is close to flat. Still, you might like some of them better with stronger bass or more highs. And because it's good and roughly flat, you can easily make it do this. IMO this is part of the joy of having a good system.

So what you're saying is that theres nothing wrong with painting a mustache on the Mona Lisa.

its just a tool. If you want to use an EQ to reach flatness, you can. Reductive EQ adjustments.

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Your hearing might not be completely flat either, especially if you're the typical old audiophile you'd want to boost the highs.

I never know if this man is in pain, orgasm or both. I even watched sauce youtube video but it didn't explain anything.

Basically, don't mess with the EQ unless you have an idea what it should sound like.
Or you want thumping bass.

I don't would guess pain, the ultrasone headphones have a reputation for being horribly bright

Every studio monitor seems to have people say they hiss and its a problem.
How do you make the purchasing decision if its almost certain that it'll happen?

it's a common thing. just gotta deal with it. and remember to turn their power off when you go to sleep

So pleasure?
I remember he's saying a price of these headphones (rather high) at the end and repeating it twice. Does that mean they're bang for bucks or ridiculusly expensive?

It just seems like recommending studio monitors below 300$ for pc desktop seems really wonky idea, whos going to suffer trough the hissing at that close distance? Sure some 600€ genelecs might have low enough hissing that it doesn't matter but the cheap ones sure don't.

Art is subjective. Music is art.

You listen to the music the way you want to. If you think putting a moustache on the Mona Lisa improves it, then more power to you.

That's the thing with using graphs and charts as a means of deciding what is good or not, you start to lose the whole point.

Response on and off-axis can be nice. Different hiss tolerances.
You can definitely do better, which is also why cheap monitors are not the end-all solution.

Agony and dislike.
He has a written review detailing just how much and why, but it's easier to distribute videos than text.

Need some new speakers in my boat. Which is better lads?

fusionentertainment.com/marine/products/speakers/sg-fl88spc/specs
jlaudio.com/m880-ccx-sg-wh-marine-audio-m-series-speaker-systems-91322

I know they are both ugly but I'm going to put grill cloth over them.

KEF Q350 for ~334$
Is this legit?

audioplaza.pl/products/26675-kef-q350-kolumny-podstawkowe-salon-poznan?Ceneo

ceneo.pl/51973649

>Q350
That sounds like the price for a single and not a pair.

You're right, every shop gives price of one and it's sold as a pair...

What currency is that?

>Different hiss tolerances.
Or different speakers hiss more than others.
Lsr 305p mk2 seem to have less hiss so maybe I'll get those.

You're going to have to ask /o/'s car audio thread. Very few posters here focus on car audio. Good luck.

Has anyone here built tube amps?

I built a shitty class A amp a while back and if the input gets disconnected (or the soundcard goes to sleep) the amp will make an incredible high pitched squeal and will do so loudly

Would a grid stopper resistor on the input / voltage amp tube stop this or is it something else?

also I didn't do any negative feedback, is it something that I can sensibly wire back to the cathode of the first tube or should I just not bother...

DT990 pro or AR5BT?

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PC (Optical Audio) ---> FX Audio DAC-X6 ---> Kenwood vr-405 AV Receiver.

Would there be a significant audio difference doing this or is the DAC in the receiver good enough? Mind you the receiver already has optical input.

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Probably not. The usual errors of conversion are very low in level, except for maybe noise.

I know the 990 Pro is open backed and has both boosted bass and treble. It has a fairly even midrange response, unlike other smiley EQ headphones. The response is fairly smooth though, so if you want to equalize it, it's one of the cheaper good set to try it with.

It's not wireless or closed backed like the ATH, not that I know what it sounds like.
These are two very different headphones. How do you plan on using your headphones most of the time?

If you're going optical out from PC to optical in on Receiver, probably not. I prefer having a DAC personally.

Hi guys,
I wanna make a 2.1, I think i'll buy those
>KEF Q350
>EMOTIVA TA-100
>SVS SB-1000
What is your opinion ?

you dodged the logiturd bullet.
congrats.

You may want to bump the 12 inch sub up to a 15 inch. I did that and it's been bliss filling out the low end. Funny enough, since my sub does so much work my speakers are also sounding better, but that could just be placebo.

cyberpunk af, good job user

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Q350 is alright, I guess.
Don't really know the Emotiva.
>SB-1000
I'd sooner suggest a 12 inch ported design, such as the similarly priced ones from Hsu or Rhythmic. Or a bigger sub, but that would cost a good amount more for similar/more placement trouble.

I'm living in an apartment so I don't have much space. Also I don't want my neighbours to complain. I heard ported design tend to deliver much more noise but with lower quality.
>Q350 is alright, I guess.
If you have a better option I'm open

>Funny enough, since my sub does so much work my speakers are also sounding better, but that could just be placebo.
If you're doing the crossover in the sub before the output reaches the speakers, they may actually be sounding better due to not having to attempt to reproduce the low end anymore.

The KEF is fine, good acoustic properties and all. Would have liked KEF to equalize it a little more carefully, but they already did the hard work for you.
>ports
There's definitely more that can go wrong in a ported design.
But there are many pure sound quality benefits as well. Bass extension and linear range, as well as max output.
They might complain anyway if you got a sub and used it at night.

This book is cool, thanks.

PLN

Want some books? More to do with headphones, but I'm sure they have some use here as a reference.
mega.nz/#F!3MFm1DrD!4GlU_vNtEeF148kZcQ05wA

Thanks. I'm more interested in loudspeakers and room acoustics but I'll thumb through those thank you.

I want to build a dedicated home theater in the next three or four years so starting my research now (early, but, it'll be fun and educational). So want to learn about ideal room sizes and acoustic materials and all the details down to lighting and of course all the equipment. I want to check out CES and CEDIA at some point in the next few years too. Work makes CES pretty tough but CEDIA is more doable.

I want to replace my old ass bookshelves speaker with a good pair of monitors. I've searched around a bit and I think the jbl lsr305 are quite good. What do you guys think?

I am doing the crossover at the sub. I actually have it set a bit higher than what people normally recommend.
Had a feeling it was Polish. Wasn't 100% sure.

>I actually have it set a bit higher than what people normally recommend.
I personally would recommend 120 hz since that's supposed to be the upper end of a dedicated LFE channel and also usually right around the upper end of the frequency response of subwoofers, what do you have it set at?

I have mine set at I believe 80 hz, when people usually recommend 60 hz (the lowest my speakers reach). I'm not sure if my sub has an option to go 120hz.

Interesting. Do you have any goals in mind? Or at least, the room you'll be fitting it into?

Well, I'm mostly basing my number on the ITU spec: itu.int/dms_pubrec/itu-r/rec/bs/R-REC-BS.775-3-201208-I!!PDF-E.pdf

The problem I found is that going higher the sub starts taking over too much and it no longer sounds good.

I see. Well, if it sounds good it is good.

120 is rather high for a woofer. Directivity and localization might be a concern. So are possible breakup modes.
Speaker woofers are normally fine to at least 100Hz, and usually lower than that

stupid fucking boomer

found some old plans + how to put it together for a klipschorn
drew it in freecad and wanted to ask a carpenter friend to build it for me

but holy shit, this stuff is annoying to put together
should I make a cheap prototype out of plywood first without the driver installed?

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Just to give an example of what it sounds like, imagine the muffled sounds from a car with all doors and windows closed. That's what it begins to sound like.

Mostly vidya,audio books and classical/rock. Hooked up to either my laptop or a Fiio amp i have somewhere

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>Fiio amp I have somewhere
What you got, e10k?

More basic than the sound quality is the isolation and the usage.
DT990 is open backed. Little isolation. I presume the Bluetooth set would have more.
If you don't mind using an amplifier, the DT990 may be a better choice. The treble is a point of contention, and I don't know the other set.

Yeah horns are a tough first project. If you are confident in the drawing and have a good carpenter then I wouldn't be too worried about it. They'll be used to working with nice woods. You'll probably build it out of MDF board and veneer it though, no? You want to use actual solid wood? You'll need to check what types are okay for speakers, some I know are porous and that creates problems.

Crossover slopes also matter. If you start to get higher in crossover you might want to run a steeper slope. A 12db/octave slope crossed over at 110Hz or something is going to be playing some pretty high frequencies well above that.

My HP laptop came with free speakers and a backpack. The speakers are pretty loud.

So finally I am buying good speakers and a vintage receiver to drive them. I want to listen music mostly from my computer (CDs and FLAC). Do I need to get a DAC?

Would an FX-Audio DAC-X6 cut it?

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Is this pic still valid or is it completely outdated now? If the latter, what would you replace the price tiers with?

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