Current U.S. National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) standard 240V plugs are for major household appliances such as clothes dryer or industrial systems. The plugs are large and designed with the assumption that the appliances will be stationary or the plug will lock onto the socket.
NEMA is developing a smaller, non-locking 240V plug that is designed to be used with portable kitchen appliances are limited in temperature they can reach right now because of the power delivery limits of regular 120V sockets (e.g. InstantPot, portable induction stove, electric kettle).
This is a good thing. Existing US plugs and sockets are low quality crap and obviously designed to be as cheap to manufacture as possible.
Jeremiah Long
>How do you feel about this? Welcome to the 20th century?
Blake Sanchez
>240V plugs are for major household appliances such as clothes dryer or industrial systems Meanwhile, over here we're using 3-phase plugs for those kinds of things for 12 kW at 10 A fuses.
Elijah Flores
I hope it's not 50hz like euroniggers and the rest of the world that isn't japan/korea/taiwan
Evan Myers
>he thinks americans even use electric kettles
Parker Peterson
Why do you even care about 50 vs 60 Hz?
Lincoln Peterson
The eastern side of Japan, including Tokyo, uses 50 Hz.
David Anderson
As long as the plug is better than the abomination used for 120V sockets, it would be great. The current plugs are shitty enough to already be of dubious safety, wouldn't want double the voltage through that. It's just asking for trouble.
Aaron Turner
>be american >have 240v circuit for stove >buy UK socket off ebay >tap 240v off of stove >install UK socket in wall >buy UK kettle for full speed boiling It's an idea anyway
Jack White
>1.2kV plugs what the absolute fuck
Aaron Jackson
I said three-phase, electrically challenged friend. 400 V between phases, times 3.
Isaac Walker
It would be cheaper to buy the electric magnetic stove that boils a pot of water in about a minute.
The only downside is that you need good quality cookware none of that thin metal crap
Ethan Martin
So americans will be able to use more power? Good to know!
Surely you are not under the illusion that anything remotely modern picture-displaying device is actually timed off the line frequency?
Jayden Thompson
Okay, aussie plug, or birtongs plug. Or Chiletalian plugs
Benjamin Johnson
Now everything uses SMPS so it is not important.
Lucas Morris
>designing another socket instead of using an existing 240v plug that exists around the world
lmao
Grayson James
Brazil had the best system with PAL-M 60hz like murrica, pal color encoding. Too bad it's still brazil with brazil television programs.
But the brazilian dreamcast was NICE, almost VGA like with the combination of pal-m and the sega autism for analog video perfection.
Ayden Lopez
>birtongs plug They always like to brag about how amazingly safe their plugs are, but Schuko has all the same safety features (arguably even more) while not having the long-obsolete fuse-per-plug and not being so hideously large and foot-hurt inducing.
>60hz like murrica, pal color encoding. If that also implies PAL resolution, wouldn't their transmissions require 20% more bandwidth as well?
Luis Thomas
Riddle me the purpose of the ground-pin being off-center. Whyever would you avoid making it symmetric?
Nolan Ramirez
They probably need neutral wire for some reasons and protective-earth wire. Otherwise they could use euro plug with two phases and protective earth. Schuko hurts foots just as well, only chilean plug doesn't do it, but it is not as robust. And japs were kinda first to make this thing popular, since they had 50 and 60 hz. And yet 230VAC, right?
Eli Robinson
It's the same resolution as NTSC. The difference is that the color is encoded with the PAL scheme, so you don't get the strawberry colored skins etc you ususally get with "Never Twice Same Color".
Evan Butler
Why?
Noah Brooks
It is done, so phases can't be swapped in wires, but since brazilians are so good at wiring - it doesn't work.
Joseph Miller
I thought the split phase 120V in normal kitchen outlets can output 240V when the phases are rotated 180° apart.
nothing good about it and even worse transformers/plug packs have to have this stupid narrow plug so it fits in the recess
also
>CENELEC forecast that converting European households, offices and factories to a common standard would cost about$125 billion
Asher Jackson
Brazil is 110 and 220v on the same house. Generally 220v is for some tools and the suicide shower thing, and 110v is used for the whole rest.
Nathan Diaz
walworts are stupid anyways, everything should be integrated in the device itself
Jayden Butler
>Whyever would you avoid making it symmetric? Make sure neutral on the socket goes into neutral on the device and live on the socket goes to live on the device. If something has metal that can be touched that would normally be connected to neutral you would get a nasty surprise if you reversed it
Thomas Robinson
>your phone should have to take 240V AC down to 5V
think how many tiny devices there are that now need to be giant in size and now non user replaceable
if a 12v psu dies i can get another one so easily and probably have one at home
12v psu dies inside some device all on a board? bit harder
Angel Adams
Why? In Chile every fucking home has its own transformer (like in retarded US, not in EU, where 'safe' 240/400V travel on neighbourhood wires), but they have three phases, like all people do in Europe. And you have center-tapped 110V, like in US, but 220V sockets? I just don't get it. Like it was in USSR, where some sockets had neutral and phase (127V), and two phases (220V), but with two phases?
Liam Flores
that's why modern wall sockets should have a couple of USB-C in them.
>switches on outlets >earth pin connects first >pins insulated at base >can only go in 1 way >not overly large like UK trash >larger amperage plugs just use different earth pin sizes/shapes >can insert lower amperage plugs into higher sockets still
yeah even easier to replace >everything is USB C >can draw 100W out of USB C >has to follow specs and assume cable is to spec >can kill phone >more cabling to wall for USB C ports >or taping off outlet reducing wattage
yeah perfect system
Nicholas Butler
Cool, but you can't change it by yourself, they will catch you and put in prison.
Cooper Mitchell
plugs are sold at all hardware places but for like $4
and that's not a reasoning behind the plug just country laws
Alexander Scott
>no guns >can't do wiring in my house, even if I follow electrical code ABSOLUTELY NON-FREEDOM >can drive drunk What the fuck is happening in Australia? Are you high on spider venom or what?
Austin Allen
>follow code >haven't been trained on code >somehow following >can get licensed to do electrical work >dont have to be electrician
Levi Lopez
>getting electchicken license just to change a faulty socket in your own house.
Jacob Jones
too big
Easton Reed
The NEMA 5 socket is specified as hot to neutral, so always in the 120V range. There are no devices that will plug into a NEMA 5 socket that can handle 240V. What you're thinking of is a receptacle where the upper socket and lower socket are wired to different phases. That's done so that you can put two high power devices, like a kettle and a toaster on the same receptacle without blowing fuses.
For 240V, the entire system has to be designed with that voltage in mind. You need to size conductors and fuses appropriately in the power delivery circuit and you need to design the device with 240V in mind, too.
Michael Allen
>30A All brittongs are jelly that they can't have FULL 7200W to boil kettles.
Jayden Wood
>follow code >haven't been trained on code >somehow following
You could train a child to change out sockets and switches in like 20 minutes. There's not much to it. The code is in place for people who do electrical work all day installing panels, running conduit, wiring junction boxes, etc. Once the wiring for your house is in place, it's hilariously difficult to fuck it up, and that's by design. If you fuck up wiring a socket or switch, you probably have trouble crossing the street by yourself too.
To replace a socket:
1) Find the fuse/breaker and open the circuit 2) Use your multimeter/socket tester to verify no voltage on the circuit 3) Remove the faceplate of the socket 4) Remove the socket itself from the wall 5) Unscrew the hot, neutral, and bond wires from each terminal 6) Screw the wires onto the respective terminals on your new socket (you could snip the wires and strip fresh ends if you want, but it's probably not necessary) 7) If the wires are too short to work with, get some spare wire and connect it to the short wires with marrettes 8) Screw the socket back into the wall 9) Screw the faceplate back on 10) Energize the circuit and as long as you're not a moron the breaker shouldn't pop
That's all there is to it and that's exactly what a certified electrician would do. The only thing you should pay attention to is that where the ends of your wires are screwed to the socket, there should be little to no extra bare wire protruding from the terminals. You should snip any extra off.
