What kind of Amplifier do you use to power your speakers?

>don't overrate the sound of electronics
this is only true if your speaker drivers are about as "good" as the average amp; with better speakers, the sound signature of the amplifier becomes audible, tubes not included

if your amplifier has a certain sound signature then it's not transparent and therefore either shit or defective

Looking at NAD 300 series or TEAC AI301 DA for a future set of sub-500 bookshelf speakers, am I an idiot? I don’t really want or need digital connectivity for myself but the gf is going to desire Bluetooth...

you can add a cheap bluetooth dac for the gf to any simple analog amp

>also what do should you look for when buying an amp? just watts per channel?
Stability and output into low impedance loads. Contrary to what headphone users might think, a low impedance load is very punishing for amplifiers.
Amplifiers may rate for dynamic, transient, or peak power, which is far greater than anything that they can actually output stably a while.
Low noise level.
It would be good if someone had reasonably tested the amplifier.

>the sound signature of the amplifier becomes audible
Not quite.
The sound of the amplifier is a property of how it may couple with the load of the loudspeaker, which may bring out a "sound": undesired interaction. You can get a mega amplifier to handle everything, or just not build a loudspeaker that has crazy single-ohm dips with a large phase shift. That, and noise.
Loudspeaker linearity is something no electronics maker would ever trade for.

it's not just the load response, its the capacitance of the amp, its current capability, its noise suppression, and other factors

every amplifier has a signature

>then it's not transparent
suggesting that your speakers are not so good with resolution

you have no clue about simple electronics
leave this thread

Thanks m8

>poorfag
>Have some old randon 6ohm CCE, don't know the wattage, label too old to see

I just use some AliExpress cheap amp, they do a more than capable job, considered at some time to get a tube amp too, but I didn't see a lot of appeal.

Apparently, you own mid-range Klipsch tower speakers purchased new from BestBuy.

even if I would want to I couldn't, no one sells that shit here

> looking to replace my old Yamaha amp
> primarily used with just a turntable
> bought this based on quality of built in phono preamp
> not disappointed

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figure out the sensitivity rating of your speaker and how loud you want it to go then figure out what amp is best suited for that. if you have higher sensitivity speakers go tubes or pure class a solid state like pass labs

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Sensitivity is largely dependent on the magnet strength. The stronger the magnet, all else being equal, the less power you need to drive it to any particular volume.
You can get surprisingly loud volume out of good speakers with just the output from a phone earphone jack.
Shitty PC speakers are notoriously insensitive.

Give me 3 reasons to buy one, autism doesn't count.

One thing that i've got wise to when looking at power ratings is how much power it makes at a certain level of distortion.
I was looking at an Onkyo TX-NR777, with a claimed rating of 220w/ch, but if you read further into it, that power rating is based on only one channel being driven to 10% THD. The real power rating is 110/ch, all channels driven, at 0.08% THD.
Most of the chink-shit-general mini amps power ratings are based on something similar, one channel driven to total shit distortion levels.

- They're very compact, if space is an issue.
- They're cheaper than a meal at a mediocre restaurant.
- They usually run on 12V dc, making them easy to run on battery power, so there's portability options

marantz guy reporting in.. just made a click on a Denon PMA-1600NE for 800€~ a minute ago on amazon WHD

let's see how those two differ on my kef ls50. i just read everywhere that ls50 need fucking juice and the denon have 3 times the rated power output theoretically.. so i'm pretty stoked

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Running my around 20yr old pioneer linear powers off of a Lepai/Lepy LP-2020A+ that is at least 7 years old.

haha wat

they're hard to find -- are they still in business

this seems made up

truth

>Denon PMA-1600NE
looks like a dual monoblock design
no sharing
you're gonna shred the tunes brah

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I hope they're still in business, I only bought the amp a month ago.
The site is still up.
www.miesaudio.com/

If you guys are into amps, I got one in my collection you might like. I'll haul it out and snap some pics.
brb

Being coupled devices, any device interaction is critical. As far as response goes in-band, it's more or less a solved problem in that response is flat.
Current limits just mean that the amplifier can't tolerate the more difficult loads. If its fine with your load, it's fine.

>this seems made up
Loosely true. Sensitivity is of course not the central decisive parameter for listening, otherwise, everyone would use pro woofers and compression horns in their homes.
Force on the coil generated by the magnet is described by:
>F=B*L*I
with B describing magnetic field strength.
If this were everything, sensitivity would simply jump up by swapping out ferrites for a smaller neo magnet. However, by increasing B, you also promote back EMF, which serves to damp velocity. The velocity maxima are the driver resonances.
If you could simply increase B without limit, the driver eventually would start rolling off more aggressively at its bottom end.

A Yamaha B-1 power amplifier.
About 100 lbs worth of iron, copper and circuit boards.
The base is like a motherboard. All the components and boards are removable.
Here's a link to some more info about it.
thevintageknob.org/yamaha-B-1.html

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None of these amps/receivers was more than $20. They all work fine and sound decent.
Srry, no remote or DACs here though..

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OP here

the reason i'm asking is becasue i'm thinking about buying some POLK S15's when they go on sale for around $160 US. but i have no idea what kind of amp i should get.

amazon.com/dp/B01LVWWZS0/?coliid=I1VS4DYYECEQIH&colid=3KJVFUA4FB0SM&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

im upgrading from some cheap Logitech speakers, so i have absolutely no experience with any of this stuff.

Ill be using them for my pc and hopefully my TV as well. It would probably go on my desk, which is why i was thinking about buying some small amp off of amazon, but i guess that isnt recommended. I also dont want to spend more money on the AMP than on the actual speakers.

Check out your local online ads, hit up some pawn and 2nd hand electronics shops. There's all kinds of options out there.

what kind of inner sphere lostech is this

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It wasn't something that you could get at your average electronics shop, that's for sure.
It's suppose to be a statement piece. Basically Yamaha saying "look how clever we are"

"2SK75 is practically unobtainable, and there are a number of them in that amp, never mind the other special JFETs. Although I would consider pulling it apart an atrocity, it's worth the asking price in parts, especially for someone who already has a working unit."

lol, how does this mega amp sound

trips, and this is really something audio enthusiasts understand -- that good components don't have to be brand new, or expensive, and a lot of good gear gets put aside simply because people want new, even if new is lousy compared to a 10 year old fully functional and more capable unit

avsforum.com/forum/89-speakers/2910992-review-klipsch-r-15m-vs-polk-s15-bookshelf-speakers.html
Listening Experience

Overall, in AB testing its like the whole mix of the music changes between the two speakers.

The Klipsch r-15m is naturally more efficient, making for a easily louder presentation, vocals tended to be forward and things can be sharp or harsh at higher volumes. They repeatedly had the stronger center image and with the combo of forward vocals or where there was a lot of information in the peaky areas of the response could make that center placement distracting.

The Polk S15 had a sound stage far greater than the size of the speakers. Overall a much more neutral and natural presentation but still with a rising rate at the end of the tweeters range. Sometimes the midrange could seem slightly veiled, but always smooth.

Guns and Roses - Estranged

Klipsch - Sounds a little hollow. Like a "concert hall" effect has been put on the speakers. Very dynamic. Slash is dead center, almost distractingly so. Feeling a little hash.

Polk - Bass line is much more obvious. Almost drowned out with the Klipsch.

Govt. Mule - John the Revelator

Marked difference in vocal staging. With the Klipsch being forward and Warren Haynes voice little rough. The Polks smoother more natural sounding and were lacking the same strong center image.

Vintage high-end audio makes my dick hard

i want it tho
afraid of the maintenance cost

It sounds...well, perfect. Clean, quick, if there is any distortion coming from it, I can't hear it. It passes the silence test flawlessly.
And, it doubles as a decent space heater. It makes the room noticeably warmer.
I'd still like to have it rebuilt, but the few places out there that can are mostly in Japan, and shipping it to then back from Japan would cost about $800 alone.

>When you turn on your Dino-Amp and the house lights flicker because of the current draw.

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thanks for the review bro
found this funny pic and its a step down from B1

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> BASED ULTRACURVE POSTER...

is that a new model ? no C channel and no pcmia card ? do you have the measurement mic for time correction ?..i have one almost 10 years old i have modded and i drive with 6 mono amps ...

fun fact: get your soundcard to resample everything to 24/96 as the ultracurve does this internally and its sample rate converter is ancient hardware and sucks balls

love it to death, paired with the ultracurve, too bad it cant into DSD.

Any good amplifiers that take banana plugs? Preferably

Since you're selling "this shit" at work, I got to ask: What are the full size amp options with a USB _soundcard_ option? I have NEVER seen any. I'm using the Onkyo TX-676E with HDMI right now and this was a step up from a 2006 model Pioneer with SPDIF (ran everything through a box with pulseaudio that made all audio AC3). I looked for a receiver that could act as a USB sound card at the time I bought the Onkyo and I found NONE. NONE. Every single one has a useless USB input for .. USB sticks. Like that's somehow useful for anything.

The only thing I've seen apart from those small DAC/AMP boxes that do act as a USB sound card are my Bluedio R headphones. They have a 3.5mm input and connect with Bluetooth and if you connect a USB cable to a PC they show up as a digital sound card. It seems fucking obvious that HIFI equipment - most of which already has a fucking USB plug - could/should show up as a USB sound card if you connect to a PC. Hell, I've seen USB sound cards as cheap as $3 (garbage, sure, just saying it's not exactly expensive or impossible to do). So where oh where are full-size amplifiers and receivers with this feature? Do they exist? And if not, why?

Dayton audio has a few decent amps in the sub $200 range, and a lot of them come with the 5-way posts.
parts-express.com/cat/home-audio-amplifiers/106?N=21771 4294967118 4294967060&Ne=10166&Nrs=collection()/record[endeca:matches(.,"P_PortalID","1") and endeca:matches(.,"P_Searchable","1")]&PortalID=1

Probably any ~10 year old Sony or Pioneer receiver you find at a thrift store or garage sale for under $50. Judge by the weight of all things for these brands. Anything more than 15 to 20 pounds will be good.

I recently bought a $5 Sony from about 1999 and I can't turn the knob past 10% because its too fucking loud already. You may not want something that old because past 10 years you get problems with static on the mechanical components (scratchy pots) depending on the humidity. Avoid Kenwood.

On a positive note, a company called Tokin makes a replacement output transistor for these amps. It used to be that when one the 2sk77's shits the bed, the amp was basically a write-off.

>shred the tunes
what you do you mean by this

smsl.
call it a day.

Paired with two Wharfedale Diamond 9.1.

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Forgot to mention: Rear output is hooked up to my TV, front output is occupied by a Chromecast Audio which works beautifully in conjunction with foobar and bubbleUPNP or Spotify.

>output
are you sure

Woops, I'm dumb. Input of course.

sounds great

Total Harmonic Distortion is also good to know. You can think of it as a measurement of the undesired resonance produced by an amplifier. Sometimes it's listed as dB, sometimes it's listed as a percent. Just know that THD(dB) = 20*log( THD(%) / 100 ). Typically, for an amplifier above 20ish watts, below 0.03% is a reasonable maximum. For headphone amps, below 0.01% is acceptable.

You can find used home theater units/stereo receivers on craigslist for < $50 that will outperform the tiny Amazon $100 class D amps, both in power output and sound quality. That said, they are rather large so if space is an issue, the little amazon class D amps are probably the way to go.