/pcbg/ - PC Building General

So I originally planned to get
>Corsair - HX Platinum 750W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
What other powersuppy that is platinum efficiency and around 750W power delivery that you actually recommend? The corsair PSU apparently is CWT and with 10 years warranty.

Attached: 533.jpg (1492x78, 24K)

Why do you need 750w? Are you using TR+Vega64, or Intel iX?
You generally should not be running dual GPU now days. It's poorly supported.

Seasonic makes a good 650w.

>do CPU upgrade
>order CPU from europe, arrives within 3 days
>order motherboard from china
>have to wait between 2 weeks and 3 months because i wanted to save 20 bucks or so
fuck.

is the left a TN and the right an IPS ?

Mainly because of 8700k, a 1080ti or the next gen equivalent and a good measure of additional case fans and so on.
Add to the fact that over the years the actual total power output drops slightly and that I plan to use the system easily for 5-10 years, I want a little headroom which will degrade over the years.

Unless you're using more than two graphics cards, even 500W is plenty for any single GPU system, and in fact over time, you'll watch power consumption of your favorite graphics cards and processors go down. If you want headroom, 750W is excessive, a well-reviewed 650W will suit you for the next 5-10 years just fine.

*go down as power efficiency improves every generation

So you are saying that even with a 8700k overclocked, a big as card like 1080ti, at least 5 additional case fans, 3-5 SSDs/HDD, optical drive and a bunch of USB peripherals. All of that is entirely fine on 650W for the next 5-10 years of usage?

*go down as power efficiency improves every generation
I just mentioned that I plan to use the rig for 5-10 years before really making any upgrade to it. So the fact that every new gen there is more efficient CPUS or GPUs is irrelevant to me.

>use a 144hz monitor for about two years
>forced to go back to 60 because of a dead GPU
>it's actually unbearable

That shit will be fine on 550w. Idk how your math is so bad that you add cpu wattage + gpu wattage + board and peripheral wattage and you somehow come up with 750 for 8700k+1080Ti+etc.
Anything more than 650w is complete overkill.

My actual math is
>Load Wattage: 590 W
>Recommended UPS rating: 1100 VA
>Recommended PSU Wattage: 640 W
Again while technically I Can get away with 650W it seemed to me to better have 700-750W with the extra headroom to have the PSU both run more efficient(since it's efficency drops slightly at maximum load) and to account for any kind of PSU performance degradation over the period of 5-10 years.

Yep, it'll be fine for sure, pic related. If your power supply is worth a damn, (and considering your budget, you probably can afford PSUs worth a damn), it'll carry everything just fine and then some. Quality > Wattage every time.

Attached: Screenshot (19).png (1920x1080, 855K)

Good PSUs run at/over their maximum rating fine.

But the biggest thing you're not getting is that your components aren't going to run at 100% of their peak power draw unless you intentionally make them do so by running a CPU and GPU synthetic simultaniously.
Actual gaming load for a 5GHz 8700k and a 1080ti is going to be well under 500w.

>Actual gaming load for a 5GHz 8700k and a 1080ti is going to be well under 500w.
Sure but add the fans, fan controller, multiple HDD and SDD some usbs and all those things add up, it's not just the videocard and cpu that draw power from the system.
I mean I am all for efficiency but seems kinda silly to build an expensive build and then be skimpy on the power supply by getting just enough to handle maximum load scenarios.

TOTAL SYSTEM POWER CONSUMPTION

Sure, but that doesn't tell me how many fans he has, or SSDs or HDDs or additional shit and so on.
It also doesn't tell me what CPU he is using and at what frequency and voltage.

But 650W isn't "just enough", it's plenty, and everything else in your system consumes less than 100W even with that configuration. In fact with a 750W PSU you might be falling farther behind the power efficiency curve as advertised. Even after 10 years, maybe that 650W will degrade to maybe 550, it'll still be sufficient for your system, and by then the power supply might be the least of your problems considering how you never know what's going to fail first with electronics.

Just got a 7970 for 96€, also, I was bidding on another for 70€ (shipping included) and the fucked removed my bid on the last second.
I will pair it with 8gb DDR3 1600mhz, 120gb SSD, H81m-K mobo, no name PSU with 850W of ELECTRICITY POWER, and maybe a 500gb WD Blue HDD, I think it's 7200rpm.
I will try to sell it for 450~500€, as the offers I see around are shittier for less. Maybe selling all of this individually is better, idk.

You took that picture from this website right

>In fact with a 750W PSU you might be falling farther behind the power efficiency curve as advertised.

As far as I know, PSU deliver their peak efficiency around 50% load, if it's in the 20% or 80-100% of power load the efficiency drops.

>The 80 Plus Bronze rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 82% efficiency at 20% load, 85% at 50% load, and 82% at 100% load.

>The 80 Plus Silver rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 85% efficiency at 20% load, 88% at 50% load, and 85% at 100% load.

>The 80 Plus Gold rating meas that the PSU is rated for at least 87% efficiency at 20% load, 90% at 50% load, and 87% at 100% load.

>The 80 Plus Platinum rating means that the PSU is rated for at least 90% efficiency at 20% load, 92% at 50% load, and 89% at 100% load.

So isn't getting a 750W platinum efficiency and using it for something that needs around 50% load(375W) the most efficient method?

Eww that's not Lena

So any information of "CWT" PSU?

Not him, most PSUs nowadays have fairly flat efficiency curves, meaning that you more or less get similar mileage except at extremely low or extremely high consumption cases. So yeah, I guess, if you really want to blow money on that 750W 80+ Platinum PSU, by all means do so, it will still be overkill, but if you really need that kind of peace of mind, well, it's your money. It goes without saying that here in /pcbg/ a great many of us are autistic min-maxers. Just a word of caution: 650W is usually where you find the best of the mainstream market, but 750W is where you have a crowded segment full of not-quite-as-good "enthusiast" PSUs.

>Not him, most PSUs nowadays have fairly flat efficiency curves, meaning that you more or less get similar mileage except at extremely low or extremely high consumption cases.
This is what I get on the internet, pic related.

>I guess, if you really want to blow money on that 750W 80+ Platinum PSU
Here is some of the choices I have been looking at.

>SeaSonic Focus Plus 650 Platinum----------------------------118,90 €
OR
>SeaSonic Focus Plus 750 Platinum----------------------------132,11 €
The difference is 13 euros, and considering I plan to use it for 5-10 years, its likely that getting the 750W for peace of mind and extra efficiency is worth the cost.
The last option is to use the 650W bronze+ powersupply I have been using for 4-5 years.
So the only real choice it seems it to use the old 650W power supply or get a new 750W.

Attached: Platinum.png (1540x1012, 34K)

Can /pcbg/ help me to find a laptop?

I just need 15'' 1920x1080 IPS screen and a 256GiB SSD + 1TiB HDD. Also with a numpad.
Budget: 900-1100€

Is there a 27" 1440p IPS monitor out there for cheaper than $220? That's not used/refurbished.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009996

The 750W then by all means, if this PC is a big upgrade from your current one, it might be a placebo, but if it'll make you feel good about your build, then go for it.

> if this PC is a big upgrade from your current one
It will be, I usually make big upgrades and then wait a minimum of 5 years before upgrading.
>but if it'll make you feel good about your build, then go for it.
I actually have burned down my RAM, motherboard, PSU once. From that day I vowed to not skimp out on power supply cause a shit one will bottleneck or fry your entire setup. Similar feelings about buying the cheapest motherboard.
But yeah, 13euros for extra efficiency./peace of mind, is probably an okay decision to make I think.

pcpartpicker.com/list/68Lmr6

First build, im a total hardware noob whos been using a mac his whole life, building this for video editing and light gaming. anything im doing wrong? ram ok? I dont want to spend much more then this. Im not decided on the case, not sure if i need a mid tower or full

Also in sort of a rush to get it built, ordering soon/today

Shit. I decided to do a 2700x build with a crosshair VI hero. The sonofabitch wont post. The fan wont even spin up. The motherboards RGB lights turn on, but pressing the power button does nothing. I've tried breadboarding it with a single stick of RAM, the GPU and reseating the CPU/cooler. The PSU is a year old 750w which should by all means still be fine.

At what point should I start freaking out? Got any ideas?

Attached: tobaku-datenroku-kaiji-3612483.jpg (800x1141, 230K)

Looks fine

Check the connectors on the mb?

>Check the connectors on the mb?
meaning the 24 pin power and the 8pin cpu power molex? I did. Both fine, As far as I can tell although I'm never sure how snug that 8pin is meant to be. I got it as snug as I was able both times.

If I pulled the graphics card, the cpu fan should still spin up right?

Are the pads on my G400s worn down? The place where pads are is just plastic, and I don't remember if it had rubber on it or not. I've just noticed my mouse has felt really draggy lately.

If so, where can I find replacements

Attached: 1360534135860.jpg (475x375, 33K)

kthanks, any case recommendations?

Is the mobo flashed to be compatible with 2700x?

>Is the mobo flashed to be compatible with 2700x?
You need to flash it?! It's an X470 socket so I assumed it'd work out of the box

Ok.... Listen, the Crosshair VI is x370 and needs a flash, the Crosshair VII is x470 and doesn't need a flash. X370 and X470 is not the socket, it is the chipset AM4 is the socket, AKA PGA1331.

Do you have the Crosshair VII or Crosshair VI?

Goddamn it. I'm retarded and mistyped twice. It's the VII so x470 -chipset-. Sorry, I've been wrastling this thing for a few hours now so I'm pretty tired. Thanks for being patient with me.
Granted if that's not the problem at what point does it start to look like I'm actually in trouble here?

The CPU 8 pin isn't molex btw, so did you just use the wrong term or have you fucked up your cabling? What does the DEBUG LEDS do? Do they light up at all? You're not giving me much to go off of.

I think I just don't know my terms as well as I thought I did. I thought 'molex' was just an interchangeable term for connector. I just meant the 8pin from the PSU to the CPU power, nothing fancy. The 8pin didn't work, so I tried that and the 4pin. Nothing again.
>What does the DEBUG LEDS do?
Haven't seen them turn on yet. At the very least, if I got an error code I could figure something out from there. So far, nothing. No debug codes, No bios beeps, The board just lights up but doesn't do anything.

Did you lock in the CPU properly with the lever by the socket? The only thing i can recall having similar symptoms is when i spilled alcohol in the socket without noticing, causing the motherboard to not recognize the CPU. Power buttons wouldn't work or anything, just passive mobo lighting.

Maybe check your CPU to be sure. Also, if you want to help yourself more, post pics of the inside of your PC. I want to see everything around the motherboard. I'm going to the gym now and i'll check this thread once i get back to see if i can help you, that's a promise.

Looks like it to me. It really annoys me that laptop makers are still putting those garbage TN screens on their laptops, even high-end ones. A good IPS panel isn't that expensive, it's like $15-20 between a 15.6" 1080p garbage TN and a good IPS part.

>Did you lock in the CPU properly with the lever by the socket?
Both times I reseated it. Worst I could think is some thermal paste wound up on the motherboard, but it's that stuff that came pre-applied on the cooler which I'd assume was non conductive. The socket itself and pins seemed fine? It's past 1am here, So if I persist I risk doing something -really- stupid to it by accident. I'll quadruple check everything and breadboard it again in the morning. Also want to try to rule out the PSU however unlikely.
>that's a promise.
Don't know if we'll catch eachother again, Timezones and all. Sincerely though, thank you for the advice. Don't often meet someone so genuine here.

Sup bros, I was looking at the ram compatibility list for the Asrock B350 Pro4 Promontory and noticed that the this model of 16GB Adata ram list (AX4U240038G16-DRG) was not on it. However, in the newegg reviews people do talk about this ram model working on ryzen cpus although on different motherboards. Would I be screwed if I bought this ram for my motherboard?

Attached: 1516940327888.jpg (640x716, 77K)

user you are replying to from the last thread.
Yes 750w is good for a i7-8700k and a GTX 1080, CWT is not exactly the best but they are good enough.
650W would work but you can also buy a 750W if you want.
As long the price is good though.

RAM is RAM, they all are compatible, more talking about stock speeds.
Also that is a really bad motherboard.

Has anyone made the jump from 1080p to 1440p? Did you see it as worth it? I'd be going from a 1080p 24" TN panel to a 1440p 27" IPS panel. I'll be getting the monitor for about $220.

God i wish i was rich...

Is there any reputable vendor that will sell me a R9 Nano? A similar Nvidia is just a little too big and I don't want to step down to a 1050ti and I don't trust private ebay sellers.

This is a step 1 for a gaming rig $500 on a 1440p QNIX OC’d to 100-110hz;
pcpartpicker.com/list/BvdRvn

I can get $30 off the mobo and guarantee it has updated BIOS by going to micro center. If I can find a deal, I’ll get better RAM too.

I plan to add a standard 1080 or 1080ti in August and an identical stick of RAM once the new gtx line hopefully further squashes prices (tho used mining cards are sometimes cheapish)

I will swap out for better deals on buy day but throw suggestions at me

Shitty motherboard and SSD, get a different one, check ADATA SU800 if you cant afford a 860 EVO.
Get 2x4GB or 2x8GB RAM, you are using an APU, dual channel RAM is pretty much mandatory if you are expecting good performance out it.

The case is good but everything else is questionable. The 2400g ist really worth the extra money over the 2200g, especially when bandwith starved by a single stick of ram.
Get a good PSU now, saving on the part that might fry your entire system will bite you in the ass once you upgrade anything.
SanDisk ssd are pretty cheap for a reason, try out WD or crucial if Samsung is too expensive.

Anyone?

>not conductive

Exactly, it can inhibit contact and cause problems but since the cooler has pre applied thermalpaste I find it unlikely.

>sincere
Thank you user, I'll try to catch you tomorrow earlier in the day and see if we can figure this out.

WD SSDs are Sandisk SSDs user.

>storage HDD starts clicking while moving a large folder
what are the ideal specs for HDDs these days? i have 1TB of stuff to save from drive death

Does WD not get to keep the better memory chips? If not, I retract that statement.

I got a 1440p screen a few months back, and it is worth it mostly for the increased room for windows on your desktop. Having a larger screen with twice the pixels is nice for that. For gaming it matters less in my opinion but I don't do much gaming anyway. It's nice if you want to game in a 1080p window with other things on the side though. Using a 1080p or smaller screen now feels cramped by comparison.

Attached: pcgamer.png (600x774, 164K)

No outside, only in WD Black SSDs.

is it still historically the worst time ever to buy and build a PC or has the crypto meme left our market?

pcpartpicker.com/list/7bZY9J

here's an adjusted rig. I do some video editing, but it's light enough I guess I won't miss the multi threading too much.

the motherboard is arbitrary. it's just whatever they have in microatx format to bundle with my processor at micro center. I've never had issues with a motherboard throttling or holding me back, but my last rig was 2015ish so if someone has some news to tell me i'm all ears

>pcpartpicker.com/list/7bZY9J
Looks good to me.

How do I build a thinkpad?

I have since then decided to look at other options, such as
>SeaSonic Focus Plus 750 Platinum----------------------------132,11 €
The corsair was 138€, so unless SeaSonic is worse quality, I Will go with that.

lol

Corsair uses Seasonic PSUs and put's a corsair sticker on it. I hate your dumb kind.

The corsair PSU I specifically stated was from "CWT" not Seasonic.
I know some of the PSU are rebranded Seasonic ones, no need to sperg out.
The issue is I have no idea how good the quality is CWT vs Seasonic.

Looks good, one thing I'm gonna point out though is that the 450 watt version of that psu often goes on sale for $25 or so usually on amazon. I got one a few weeks ago for that much.

Also, on the off chance you're planning on using Win7 with that computer, the ryzen APUs have some acpi issue with the bios that makes it bluescreen when trying to install. It works fine on regular ryzen chips so I don't know much else why.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/7bZY9J
I was going to say it's worth spending $10 more for the Mushkin Source 500GB, but I can't even find the TBW on it... Or like $20 more for the MX500 if it's still on sale.

>pcpartpicker.com/list/7bZY9J
>I do some video editing
You might want to wait and see if 2400G drops on sale for $130 soon again, then? The SMT helps a lot in multi threading.

Looks good outside the SSD.
Don't expect reliability or the best speeds from the SU650.

CWT makes good PSUs, not as good as Seasonic, Superflower or FSP but they are something worth considering, think of them as B+ PSUs.

nl.pcpartpicker.com/list/wJ3TnH thoughts? mostly for gaming purposes

Either get a 2TB or 4TB WD Blue.
>Why not 3TB
More likely to fail than the other 2.
ASRock doesn't make the best motherboards.

Other than that everything is fine.

Oh I was under the assumption ASRock had pretty decent motherboards. Any recommendations if had to choose between Asus, MSI or Gigabyte?

ASUS>=Gigabyte>MSI

Planning to replace my CPU and motherboard, already know what I wants, but where do i download some crack version of window 7? just go to piratebay?

You NEVER download pre-patched/cracked ISOs, you only download the clean stock ones and patch them yourself.

I assume you want Windows 7 X64 Ultimate?
Here:
magnet:?xt=urn:btih:2534ecaab70e970ffb8a678ba5ae39e8fb945a72&dn=X17-59465.iso&tr=udp://tracker.coppersurfer.tk:6969&tr=udp://tracker.leechers-paradise.org:6969&tr=udp://tracker.zer0day.to:1337&tr=udp://explodie.org:6969&tr=udp://tracker.opentrackr.org:1337

ah ok, thanks for the advice
guess I'll grab it off microsoft

I just linked you the download link.

thanks, I'll go find the patch somewhere then

Here:
forums.mydigitallife.net/threads/windows-loader-download.58464/

I assume you are trying to install windows 7 in a new recent computer?
You might want to get ready for it since you need to do some stuff differently.
You will need Rufus and MSI Smart tools.

If its too new you are better installing Windows 10 2016 LTSB, which is windows 10 debotnetized for business.

yep thats what im doing,
the last time i built a pc and need to reinstall window 7 was 9 years ago so i forgot alot of stuff
still want to stick to 7 for famliarity and avoid breaking any old games i have on my pc

You are going into compatibility hell, but if you want to try it go ahead.
Worst case scenario is it doesn't work and you have to install windows 10 anyway.

so I would just do a fresh install of window 7, and then use window loader to crack it
is it true that window 7 installer dont use usb 3.0 and you have to plug it into your 2.0 USB port if it even support it?

Not the guy but how likely is it to get win 7 working with 8700k these days?

>is it true that window 7 installer dont use usb 3.0 and you have to plug it into your 2.0 USB port if it even support it?
Its kind of complicated to explain but.
If the motherboard you have has a USB 3.0 controller (Literally every single one today, no exception), it wont work in any port.
This is why you use MSI Smart tools to add the USB 3.0 drivers to the Windows 7 installer.

It will look like this.

You use Rufus to create the installer.
Then MSI Smart tools add USB 3.0 drivers option.

Attached: MSI.png (600x350, 50K)

Rufus will look like this.

Should work outside Chipset and iGPU drivers.