/wt/ - Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of watches, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for new people (unironically):
youtube.com/watch?v=RjjAt8-QoUA

>Thread theme (unironically):
youtube.com/watch?v=YnzgdBAKyJo

>Used watch guide:
pastebin.com/4cP1Tpri

>Strap guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/VBAu4Rwi

Previous thread

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Which and why?

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BB58 is the best value.

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Unfortunately the Trinity are more ONIONS than seiko

today I will remind the autist how BTFO he was

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BB58 because it's just that good, folloed by the Speedmaster which in FOIS trim is simply visually less appealing than the normal (Professional) one and the Rolex comes in last simply because the Explorer bores me to death. It's the watch equivalent to a base Mercedes C class.

>swiss value

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the swiss cuck is threatened by the SEIKO MAN

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This graph makes no sense, there's no way that a Submariner price increased by over 1000 dollars 7 times in a row adjusted for inflation.

Speedy, because I don't have a chrono in my collection.

You underestimate the irrational greed and profit chasing of swiss swine

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Speedy

That chart is partially unfair, as modern Rolex models are manufactured to a much higher standard than the models of the 1960s were.

And, in fact, no Swiss, German or Japanese watchmaker is offering high end production watches with true in-house movements at a price much below ~$3,500, whether it be Nomos, Damasko, Tudor, or Grand Seiko. That would imply that only about half of the price increase in the Sub is happy merchant price inflation, rather than most of it.

>much higher standard
>can be replicated 99% for $300 by based China

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Tudor. I don't like chronos and I don't like the Explorer.

>muh reflections
kek I remember that argument.
Last week there was a similar argument about Patek vs GS, pic related.

Seems like the Swiss can't help letting down their fanboys.

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When is the bb58 being released?

Anyone going to cop?

>no Swiss, German or Japanese watchmaker is offering high end production watches with true in-house movements at a price much below ~$3,500
iirc Rolex movements weren't truly in-house until the early 2000s when they acquired their chief movement supplier.

Are both of these fakes?

>tfw you occasionally browse /wt/ for years and you notice that it's the exact same 4-5 people shitposting the same posts over each other

Nice bait.

Honestly, I'll never understand the phenomena of people hanging around generals for *years* just to troll them day after day with shitposts. I cannot remotely comprehend how sad and empty your life has to be to spend hours a day hanging out in a general you don't like, with posters you hate, trying to make them mad.

I have no chrono in my collection, what is the best chronograph for a budget of £500? If they're all shit I'll save for a used Speedy or a Sinn.

August IIRC.
I'll go try it on, but I'm waiting for more colors to be released before buying.

Quartz or mechanical?

Why is there a super close up with the patek, and a far off picture with the GS?

>what is the best chronograph for a budget of £500?
The only mechanical chronograph worth a damn in that pricerange is the Seagull 1963, and you should wait for SeagullChronoAnon to show up and hit you with some walls of text about it before you consider it.

If anything, the GS is even more zoomed in. The fuck are you snorting?

No, the GS is much less zoomed in.

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Clearly the patek is more zoomed in

Are you blind?

Nice troll.

Weak Bait

Either but preferably mechanical.
Yeah, although it looks quite nice, I'm not going to spend hundreds on a chink watch with a clone of an ancient Venus movement that destroys itself if you clap your hands.

Well, then you're pretty much screwed as far as mechanical choices go.

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That's what I though, fuck it I'll save more and get something decent.

Well, for mechanical this is the only viable option.

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why does every citizen eco drive look so horrid? Is that one of the specifications?

This Cartier Tank homage looks okay.

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>why does every citizen eco drive look so horrid?
Pleb get out fucking bogan cunt.

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The pics are about equally close up.
GS hands are much thinner than Patek hands. You could almost cut paper with them.

Here's the full res image of the GS btw, if you want a closer look lol.

forgot pic

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this is not a problem exclusive to /wt/ by the way obviously, lots of generals have that
and yeah, I don't understand the phenomenon

I want to see more photos of Patek finishing.

isn't the mechanical max bill chrono decent?

Sure thing.

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>dat date window
This is a million dollar one-off piece btw, the absolute top of the line Patek has to offer.

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I mean not those you cherry picked.

Aren't they Pateks?
They show the same thing every time: unfinished hand edges.

Used Seiko 6138/6139 can be bought and serviced for less than that, there's a lot of variants too.

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Interesting, I'll have a look about. Would Yahoo.jp auctions be best for these or eBay do you think?

I'm here, but there are no walls of text about the watch because of this response:

>I'm not going to spend hundreds on a chink watch with a clone of an ancient Venus movement that destroys itself if you clap your hands.

This is stale pasta that I've seen too many times. In short, I love clapping my hands with my Seagull, though it's by far the lowest impact 'adventure' that I put that watch through.

But, at the risk that the skeptical user is sincere, then I'll say this. If the movement is serviced or in good shape, then the watch is sound. Mine has been worth every penny, so if you're serious then it's worth it as an affordable experiment (i.e. to see if you like manual-wind column-wheel chronographs). For me it was an experiment to determine if I could adjust to the watch lifestyle I'd have for a Speedy, which is also manual-wind chrono without date. But that's another story.

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Whats the best non-tool technique to get watch straps off?

I don't quite believe you. I also know you are very biased and want to prove something. I shouldn't even ask you, so let's just quit it here. I will find out myself.

Do you really think a vintage chronograph is a good idea for someone with a limited budget? Repairs and service are not cheap on them.

If you are going to consider vintage Seiko chronographs, make sure you learn enough about the 613x models (and their problematic vertical clutches) and the 701x models to be able to rely on yourself to judge originality, condition, and value or you are very likely to end up getting ripped off.

He also never post high res seikos.

Good morning wt

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For me it was the never ending shit talking and a superiority complex of people in this thread, mocking my dearest sentimental watches even.

I have had the payback a thousand fold by now, so its looking alright, not going to stop shitposting anytime soon though.

Not the same poster, but I've never found a macro of a modern Grand Seiko where the external finishing wasn't damn near perfect.

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the font is terrible, design underwhelming, and it's japanese for 5k+ usd

This is ugly finishing. Not worthy of me. I was going to buy GS, but now I won't.

>mocking my dearest sentimental watches even
Oh, which were those? I can think of a few posters who might have gotten that mad, but I'm curious as to which one of them you are.

Buy a spring bar tool. A cheap one is $1, a good one is $12.
You could also use a knife, I suppose.

What an ugly watch. Does it have a cool movement or something?

Good morn, PlentifulWatchAnon.

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Morning.

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eBay. I'm sure you could get cheaper on yahoo.jp but you'll need to do your research and know what you're buying. For instance one that can't reset to 0 is virtually worthless for anything but parts. The most collectable is the Pogue and they tend to sell for around £500 for a decent example, but less desirable models sell for around £200. I got mine serviced and it cost £130.
Yes, a fully serviced 6139 can easily be bought if you've got a £500 budget.

Yeah that's what I meant, I'll have a look about for info etc.
Cool, I'll probably just save more. I could probably get a Sinn with an extra 2-3 months saving I reckon.

>no walls of text
Phew. Seriously though I do like the look of the watch, especially the 36mm with acrylic crystal. It's just that stories like that put me off.

Where's the best place to get one if based in the UK?

>Yes, a fully serviced 6139 can easily be bought if you've got a £500 budget.
Sure, but even assuming its actually serviced, is someone with that budget going to be able to absorb the costs if anything ever goes wrong with it? Plus the costs of having it serviced every 5 years? Vintage chronographs require some measure of financial risk tolerance, and I'm not sure someone with a £500 budget can be expected to have that risk tolerance.

Sorry you don't like it. The movement is an example of one of the smaller automatic movements if the era, but not anything Earth shattering. Bought it from a friend of mine who serviced it and adjusted it to period-correct chonometer specs.

Ad Ed Harris to this image. He wore a 6309 in The Abyss and a 6139 in Apollo 13.

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A few brief thoughts.
1) The 'authentic' version is 37mm with acrylic crystal and solid caseback. However the watch is a very thick watch, so it sits high. That can be a dealbreaker for some people.
2) Which 'stories' have put you off? As in, where did you read them? If you want an honest resource with which to base your judgements, have a look at the hundred or so pages on the watchuseek forum that details not only the watch but the unofficial alternate versions of the watch offered by HKED based out of Hong Kong. On that forum you'll see the failures and the triumphs, and you can judge for yourself if it's a worthy investment.
3) In terms of 'where's the best place to get one', that's all dependent on which particular model you want. There are many variations, some of which are distinct to the store you order them from. Mine came from watchunique, which as far as I can tell is based out of the Netherlands.

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the grand seiko finishing autist always cracks me up

Thanks Seagullanon, I've just seen it memed around various places that they're fragile.
I like the one you have & I've seen a reverse panda that looked nice. I'll have a look on WUS & watchunique.

*throws a cherry picked picture and a wall of text at you*

No problem. The memes are exaggerations, but valuable as a cautionary tale. The bottom line is that if the movement is clean/oiled, then the watch is sound.

I fully understand the apprehension of dropping 300/400 $ on this thing without knowing the provenance or if it'll be working when you get it. It's a substantial risk. If you do the research, and by the end still want the watch, then at least you'll know what you could be in for.

When mine came in, it had a slight problem with the chronograph (the chronograph seconds would not always tick smoothly, yet it would never lose time). I took it to my watchmaker, and fortunately it was a slight adjustment and now it works fine. Furthermore, I had him look it over to make sure nothing else needed to be done, and he gave it a bill of good health, so that's enough peace of mind for me.

I wear it a lot, though right now I'm doing running tests on my Seamaster as I got it back from servicing a few months ago and I wanted to see what normal daily wear would do to it in terms of accuracy. Anyway, the Seagull is running +0.5 per day, so I'm happy.

For what it's worth, it's a loud watch though...you can hear the ticking from across the room. If your ears are as good as mine, that is. Good luck.

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Thoughts?

>Also my grandpa saw me looking at pic. He said he can sell it to me fo $15k.
Is it worth it?

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>15k
No it's not worth it. Tell him it's worth only 10.

Why the hell would you take insults from anonymous people in a watch thread, on the technology board, on fucking Jow Forums, seriously?

Tell him to fuck off and you'll wait until he dies.

Coolio, it's only around £130 on watchunique so I'll probably pull the trigger after doing a bit of research. As for the ticking, that doesn't bother me as I've got pick related which can keep me awake if not in the watch box.

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Are Zenith a brand worth looking into?

Hey lads, I really need your help right now.
So lel me greentext
>be living in hungary
>buying shitter on zen and plannin on making a some money on reselling them locally
>import tax and vat is 5% and 27% (fuck me dead)
>have friend all around the word and a few in germany
>heard you don’t have to pay import and vat in germany under 150 euros
>I could order the shitters to germany and make someone reship it to memegary
>zen lets me declear lower value
>ordering last time I decleard a lower value and didn’t get hit by customs

What would you do? How would you unJUST yourself of such high fucking additional fees? Does Germany really have that 150 euro threshold?

Ps to mr. Policeman.: This is all very fictionnal, and I would never do something so nasty like tax evasion and fraud, this is just LARPing, of course. ;)

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Sorry about all the misspelling. My bt keyboard works really badly, and I am in a hurry.

I'm interested in a way of doing the very same thing, but I have no friends in any countries that I can trust like that.

Yes, Zeniths are good.

Well respected? No shit-reputation bullshit with ETA-ripoffs or anything like that?

Are you in the EU?

Yes.

They have some nice watches in a sea of trash.

They made one alright movement in like the 60s and keep using it to this day while claiming they're great innovators.

If the german rules are like what I have stated in my post I can get the guys to repost your things too if the would post my shit in the first place. But let’s look for a more convinient method for now.