/ag/ & /am/: audio general & audiophile memes

Is this literally made of quartz?

because they usually are?
I mean, what is that, some faux 4-way speaker with woofers that are barely 8 inch?

Looks more like sandblasted glass.

Ah, that's a shame. The subtle irony amused me.

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More like acrylic plastic.

It’s sad how shitty most things are made now. All that marketing and shipping overhead.

What was the conversion thing for 1db/1w increase?

When the speaker says __db Sensitivity.

Was it the written wattage RMS at the __db sensitivity and then for each db it doubled the wattage??

What cheap JBL is that?

Decibels are log base 10. 10x power equals 10 dB (10 log). 10x voltage is 20 dB (20 log).
Approximations are 3.01 dB ~ 2x and 6.02 dB ~ 4x.
The voltage equivalent sensitivity to 1W/1m given an 8ohm resistance is 2.83 Vrms/1m.
Ultimately, no speaker (and only a few headphones) have constant impedance, so power is very much frequency dependent. The amplifier will, by convention, deliver a nearly constant voltage to the speaker system.

That speaker reminds me of a tower speaker someone I knew bought for a computer. Shit sounded like pure dogshit. Wish I could figure out what speaker it was.

Good question. Even my >$10K looks like shit desu.

Which one?

Because they are

>new JBL is garbage, surprising no one
shit I went to a guitar center and went into the room of loudspeakers that were all on and the JBL loudspeaker was the only one hissing

Edufiers are pretty decent for their price, expect surprisingly massive low-end

Any advice?

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got some A5+ bretty gud - believe the meme

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You poor fool.

Why did hardware-accelerated sound in games die?

who dis?

hnnnnnnnnnnnng

audioengines are usually pretty solid

They're very overpriced for their size and what others offer at cheaper prices. I was looking into some of their speakers at one point. The prices were outrageous. They come across as an apple equivalent of speakers.

like many higher end speakers, much better value when bought 5 years used

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thinking about buying some Polk S15's. are they worth it?

what would you recommend for around the $200-$250 US range?

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I am currently owning a pair of really old Eltax concept 400 speakers. The paper woofers are pushed in and they are overall really losing their appeal. Found someone who's selling a pair of Klipsch Synergy F2 for €200 he said they are about 10 years old.
Will the klipsch speakers sound noticeably better than my old ones? I'm mostly into rock and blues related music and I heard the horn tweeters are very nice for highs.

that model is well rated for mid-tier

other speakers in that price range (in the U.S.) would be models compatible with qAcoustics 2010/2030, ELAC B, Q100 Kef, Dayton B652, Wharfedale Diamond 10.1 (used or open box from musicdirect), or compatible units (Google "ELAC vs" or something similar).

these are "modern"; you may be able to find 10-15 year old models for about $250 which are a tier above the modern ones

if you have a bestbuy Magnolia near where you live, you could listen to a range of different speakers to see what kind of sound you like best

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Is it worth getting a stereo test record?

You can probably find FLAC tests online if you wish to just test your system out.

Yeah, it's nice to have a standard pitch to check I'd
F your table is running fast/slow. Plus, most of them have a blank side so you can get your anti-skate adjusted properly.

I read that the Elac were better. Same price range.

The new Hypex Fusionamp modules look really nice. Should make 3-way DIY a snap, even if it is a bit costly.
Now back to what was I doing before: whining about the trouble I've been having finding a decent midrange driver.

Are there any good tube phono stages under 150?

because running sound engine off CPU is no longer a performance issue. it doesn't make the sound any worse your DAC on your sound card still does all the work as far as quality of sound goes. best soundcard is a old creative card from 1998-2000sh that uses the EMC chip run it with the open source KX driver that works on mac Linux and PC and it converts even the cheapest creative card from that era into the top end creative card from that era (beacuse they all used the same chip and just disabled features etc) only problem is the cards require classic PCI and most motherboards don't support that now so consider getting a older rig with a core2duo or some thing and using that as your "sound" computer.

for modern gaming just use onboard sound all the sound cards are trash and buying a expensive DAC isn't worth it beacuse they add delay to the audio which is bad in games like pubg etc where delay of audio dictates how far away the shot is etc.

I tried using a PCI - PCIe adaptor for old creative cards but it didn't work I think its beacuse it had no 12v power rail or some thing in the adaptor if any one can be bothered looking for a adaptor that works I would be interested.

I managed to get the card detected and working but the audio is super distorted and metallic thru the adaptor. so maybe its not the voltage problem or maybe it is. sounds super fucked up. but got it working after getting latest driver update form KX forum and doing some tinkering. might try again soon hope they fix it. KX driven old creative cards sound insain I have a 5.1 sound blaster play made in Singapore from 1998 that with the KX driver runs as good as the creative studio grade gear from the era. sounds mint as fuck.

I got 2.1 pair of Logitech Z625's they are fine. Got them only for 110€ in sale.

4367

>4367
dayum I've got the 4429s, had them for about a week, and I'm never going back to tiny woofers again, but in saying that my 12" woofer needs a sub.

can anyone see a problem with going from

DAC->Active Studio Sub (XLR in / out) -> Integrated Amp -> Speakers?

Wanna grab a kh 805 when I sell my VA BBGs

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I have an Asus Xonar Essence ST, it is PCI 2 channel.....is it worthless now?

Has anyone heard of Speakerlab S50s? Are they gud?

>and I'm never going back to tiny woofers again, but in saying that my 12" woofer needs a sub.
I feel the same. JBL doesn't tune their woofers to go as low as possible, so there's still improvements to be made with a sub. But they can still offer a real physical experience if they are pushed to, and the "dryness" is on a different level compared to all the smaller woofers I've heard.

>DAC->Active Studio Sub (XLR in / out) -> Integrated Amp -> Speakers?
If you can adjust the volume on the DAC and use the amp as a power-amp there shouldn't be any problems. As the sub won't be effected by the amps volume control.

Anyone ever recone their own woofers? Is it easy for someone who's never done it before? Should I have someone else do it?

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I would say it depends a lot on the speaker and the price. I would NEVER recone a high-end speaker on my own, but I would recone a cheap one for the fun and experience.

2l.no/hires/index.html

Thank me later.

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ops sent by mistake before typing in anything:
No one has explained to me yet why I can't put up volume with an amp on windows.
if I keep 25/50 or 100 it will sound very bad.
Does Windows digitally amplify? If so what's the best 0.00dB?

I don't understand any sentence of your question. What do you want to do?

Windows doesn't amplify a signal. It only multiplies the sampled value by something between 0 and 1 according to the volume you've set.

My question is very easy:

In that picture 12,
what should the number be for best lossless audio?
What should that 12 be?

you do realise its an at95e with a fancy stylus and wooden body right?

0

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buttt then I wont hear anything

should I just go for 10/15 and adjust depending on how it feels?
ITS NOT PRECISE

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Anyone else here with a nakamichi receiver?
Couldn't be happier with the SR-4 paired with my wharfedale delta 50's

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yes, before you do it, get a rough diagram of the woofer-driver, get lots of clothes pins, and mark the outside of the driver so you can see if you are "rotating" the spider while reconing, which more or less may rip the solenoid off the spider suspension

Always 100%
You reduce the volume as late as possible, meaning on the volume knob or your amp.

>wharfedale delta 50
very nice

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Yeah I got them for only 70$ and in almost perfect condition. Even despite being somewhat light weight bookshelf speakers with no huge woofers, they perform well in the low frequencies when out against a concrete wall or something equivalent to that.

le funy troll 2018

I am assuming it is hard to tell without a degree.

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So, I got two Lepai 2020A+ amps, one has the 120301PCB and it's completely fine.

The second one has the 130820PCB and it's pretty loud even at the lowest volume. The 120301PCB basically outputs no sound when the volume knob is turned all the way down.

Also on the 120301PCB one is marked for 2-8ohms while the 130820PCB is marked for 4-8ohms.

Is this normal, or is there something wrong with my 130820PCB version? I opened it up and it looks fine...
I'm driving 35W 4ohms Pioneer Linear Power S-P270s which are 21years old.

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If you're still here, can you measure the diameter of the port flange? The inner diameter and length too, if you can manage that too.

>when your headphone is so loud that you have to keep it on 2/100 and sometimes still set the volume in whatever software you're listening stuff

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definately not true. the audioengine speakers are solid price/performance wise, it's just a different taste and tonality you get with these like with many other speakers

yep can do,

now I've just gotta move the old goods off, was a freaking expensive move but these big JBL 'studio monitors' just do it right. have fun with your 6" bookshelves everyone else

Outer diameter of flange: 15cm
Inner diameter est: 8cm (can fit my fist in it)
Length including both flanges: 11cm

also dude, what amp are you running, I see people are pairing their JBLs with crown CLass Ds, currently got a 150w a/b, just wondering if the Crown class d meme is worth the shot

I run the Benchmark AHB2 amps in bridge mode, they deliver 380W/8ohm bridged and 2x100W/8ohm in stereo.

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Nice amps, havn't heard them but they review well, and it is benchmark.

Damn big speakers, makes my standmounts look like bookshelves lmao

8cm inner? That's smaller than I was expecting. Well, there are some benefits to that as well.
Thanks for the trouble.

4429 are still quite big

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Really looking forward to getting that sub and crossing it over at 70 or so. Without the sub I keep punching the volume up and getting fatigued due to the imbalance. Plus the boominess is pretty annoying, but I only notice this shit because I came from full range floorstands (-1octave)

Was this at a showroom or store? Had to pay quite a bit for my JBLs, under retail, but no where to buy in Australia and JBLs are hardly ever coming up second hand (the good ones at least).

Really can't think of a single speaker I'd rather own in this price range. Just keen to get a sub on board.

Probably, I just brought a used Asus Xonar Essence One, iirc has 2 x TI 1705s in it, not too shabby. Currently using my mobo out (Sabre 9023 >124 SNR), your DAC is fine unless you need certain outs like XLR or w/e. I own a fucking PS1 SH1002 that sounds exactly the same as a Schiit Gungnir Multibit.

The PS1 and the Multibit are kinda lousy, but still probably good enough.
Why the KH 805?

Turn it up to 100 on Windows. Make sure it's not peaking, if it is back off a little. From there turn up on everything after windows.

"At the extremes, the drums didn't punch out above the mix quite to the extent that we had expected, suggesting perhaps a slight touch of dynamic compression. The bass was beautifully strong, down to at least the 40 hertz claimed, and we suspect a bit beyond. But the very deepest register was missing, of course. That's only the kind of deep bass that is on unusual tracks, so few will miss it."

meh

>speakers compressing the dynamic
how

What speaker?

Some compression mechanisms:
-Very large odd-order nonlinearity. It would likely sound horrible way before then.
-Port turbulence. It would be easier to check for port noise in this case.
-Ohmic heating reduces sensitivity when voice coil or other in-line parts get hot.

so practically a non-issue

4429

"Darning" home theater?

random girl, not sure. I collect on /fa/ sometimes.

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I just bought the JBL LSR305 according to /hpg/'s advise and am extremely disappointed. These sound so bright and lacking body and definition compared to my ancient Dynaco bookshelves.

Are all active monitors this bad?

yes, the moment you take an amplifier ouside of a speaker it's vastly superior

>Without the sub I keep punching the volume up and getting fatigued due to the imbalance. Plus the boominess is pretty annoying, but I only notice this shit because I came from full range floorstands
What speakers did you own before? Boominess? Have your tried moving the around in the room?
>Was this at a showroom or store?
It's from a show in Russia: youtube.com/watch?v=XjQCIFOOOFc
The dealer I demoed the 4367 also had the 4429, but I have no interest what so ever in that speaker as it lacks the things that made me interested in the 4367.
Haven't heard the LSR305, but would not expect much at that price point or size either.

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LSR305 is slightly bright on-axis. They're actually meant to be flat slightly off-axis (10-15 degrees).
>body
I don't know what your old bookshelves sounded like, but that may well just be a placement issue.
>Are all active monitors this bad?
There are definitely better ones. It would not be hard to improve on the cheap construction.
The strength of the LSR305 is that the woofer blends in smoothly with the tweeter, with a smooth radiation pattern. At least, compared to most other cheap bookshelves.
The point being, it equalizes nicely.

That's a dude look at the hands man

Is the one on the right a knock-off?
> Lepai
> Lepy

Notice how the real world resolution of his TV screen got reduced the moment he stopped using the cement blocks.

Told ya that I doubted replacing the cement will turn out as a good idea.

The sensitivity of these domes is approaching compression driver level. And the low crossover point too. All it needs is a horn.
hificompass.com/sites/default/files/documents/datasheet_t34a-4.pdf
troelsgravesen.dk/BliSMa_T34B/T34B-4.pdf

I just bought a pair of open box KEF q100's off Ebay for $185 US. It was from the official best buy ebay store. How did i do?

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Yeah, I'm way too afraid of reconing my L100Ts. I'll see if this local vintage audio repair store can do it for me. I imagine it'll be expensive though, hopefully not.

Has anyone here listened to quadrophonic surround sound before? Was in the store and saw a DVD remaster of Aqualung with 24-bit/96KHz quadrophonic. Sounded interesting afer reading up on it, although I don't have 4 good speakers to test it out.